<div>
<h3 dir="ltr">安定したリリース</h3>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicerの最新の安定版リリースは、常に <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">DRIVERS &amp; APPSパッケージ</a> にあり、Windows、Mac OS X、およびLinuxで利用できます。パッケージにはテストオブジェクトとプリンタードライバーも含まれていますが、PrusaSlicerのみのインストールを選択することができます。</p>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/">PrusaSlicerのイントロダクションとダウンロード</a>または<a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">私たちのGitHub</a>から、コンピューターのスタンドアロンインストーラーをダウンロードすることもできます。</p>
<p>安定版リリースとは、可能な限り徹底的にテストされ、多数の公開アルファバージョンおよびベータバージョンを経たバージョンです。</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">アルファとベータリリース</h3>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicerの急速な開発ペースについていきたいですか？開発ビルドには、最新の機能とバグ修正が含まれています。ただし、不安定になったり、クラッシュしたり、予期しない動作をしたりする可能性があります。本番環境で開発ビルドを使用することはお勧めしません。ダウンロードと詳細については、<a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">私たちのGitHub</a> を確認してください。<br />ほとんどのコンピューターにPrusaSlicerをインストールする方法については、記事<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/install-prusaslicer_1903">PrusaSlicerのインストール</a>を参照してください。</p>
</div>


PrusaSlicerのダウンロード

レイヤーと外周

サポート材

<h3>PrusaSlicer マニュアルへようこそ</h3>
<p>PrusaSlicer (旧称：Slic3r Prusa EditionまたはSlic3r PE) は、オープンソースプロジェクト<strong><a href="https://slic3r.org/">Slic3r</a></strong> をベースにした自社開発のスライサーソフトウェアです。PrusaSlicerは、オープンソースで、機能が豊富で、また頻繁に更新されているツールです。</p>
<p>PrusaSlicerは、<a>Windows, Mac and Linux</a> に対応しています。</p>
<h3>歴史</h3>
<p>Slic3rプロジェクトは、<strong>Alessandro Ranellucci</strong> のリーダーシップのもと、成長を続ける3Dプリント技術にオープンソースのスライサーを提供する取り組みとして、2011年にRepRapコミュニティ内で誕生しました。Slic3rはすぐにユーザーの間に広まり、Josef Prusaが Original Prusa プリンター用の主要なスライシングソフトウェアを探していたとき、このSlic3r が選ばれました。Slic3r はオープンソースで、現在もそうですが、当時非常にパワフルなソフトウェアでした。</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.helpdev.prusa3d.com/en/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-300x170.png 300w, /wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-600x341.png 600w, /wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-768x436.png 768w, /wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-800x454.png 800w" alt="" width="421" height="239" /><em>Jo and Alessandro in 2012 (<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tuxg2L7r1oI">video interview</a>)</em></p>
<p>しかし、Prusa Researchが非常に非常に早いスピードで成長するにつれ、スライシングソフトウェアの開発をより柔軟に行う必要がありました。ソフトウェアに変更を加える必要があり、その変更は早急に行われなければならず、また、より多くの機能を追加する必要もありました。この時点で、切り離されたオリジナルのSlic3rチームとの協力関係は維持できず、結局は、私たちでオリジナルのSlic3rプロジェクトのフォークを設立することにしました。</p>
<p>Slic3r Prusa Editionは、2016年11月に発売されました - 発売の詳細は<a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/introducing-slic3r-prusa-edition/">こちら</a>をご覧ください。専任のSlic3r PE開発者チームが設立され、新機能がどんどん追加されていきました。これらの変化は2019年5月に結実し、UIを大幅に刷新した新バージョンを<a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/prusaslicer-2-release/">PrusaSlicer2.0</a>という新しい名前でリリースしました。</p>
<p>なぜ名前を変えたのか？まず第一に、以前の名前は本当に紛らわしいものでした。自分たちの資料でも「PE」という接尾語をつけないことが多く、コミュニティでは Slic3r と Slic3r PE をほぼ同じ意味で使っていました。新しいユーザーは、Slic3r を誤ってダウンロードし、「3D Printing Handbook」に掲載されているスクリーンショットとは違って見えることや、自分のPrusaプリンタ用に設定されていないことを不思議に思うかもしれません。オリジナルの Slic3r について言えば、Slic3r PE はアップデートのたびに、オリジナルのコードからどんどん離れていきました。私たちは Perl のソースコードをすべて C++ に書き換え、特に2.0のアップデートでは、あまりにも多くの違いがあったため、名前をより明確にすることが適切だと考えました。</p>
<p>もちろん、オープンソースであり、 <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer">GitHub</a> ですべてを見ることができます。そして、私たちのスライサーが <strong><a href="https://slic3r.org/">Alessandro Ranellucci</a></strong> によって書かれたオリジナルのプロジェクトをベースにしていることを、私たちは今でも誇りに思っています。現在、両プロジェクトは楽しく共存しており、新機能は頻繁にマージされています。</p>


概要情報

<p dir="ltr">インフィルの主な目的は、トップレイヤーの下を支持することです。そうしないと、トップレイヤーは何もないところにブリッジすることになります。 インフィルは、プリントスピード、強度、フィラメント消費量、さらにはプリントの外観にも影響します。</p>
<div class="note-callout">一部のオプションは、<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> を選択した場合にのみ表示されます。</div>
<h3>インフィル(充填密度)</h3>
<p>ほとんどのモデルは、10～15％のインフィルで十分です。 上部が徐々に閉じていくモデルでは、中空（0％のインフィル）でもプリントできますが、通常はお勧めしません。 モデルに重さが必要なときや、より高い耐圧縮性またはより高い剛性が必要な場合は、インフィル値を増やすことで対応できます。 ただし、30％を超えるインフィルが必要になることはめったにありません。 最後に、100％のインフィルでモデルをプリントすると、インフィルパターンが強制的に直線になります。 100％のインフィルは、プリントしたモデルの外観に悪影響を与えることがありますので注意してください。</p>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>モデルの強度向上</strong><br />
モデルの強度は、主に<strong>外周の周回数で決まります(インフィルではありません)</strong>。 より強いプリント品が必要なときは、外周の数を増やします。 とは言うものの、インフィルを増やすと耐圧縮性が向上します。</div>
<h3>インフィルパターン</h3>
<p>PrusaSlicerは、選択可能な多くのインフィルパターンを提供します。 インフィルパターンを選択するとき、考慮すべき主な事項は次のとおりです:</p>
<ul>
<li>プリントスピード</li>
<li>材料使用量あたりの密度 (少ない材料でトップレイヤーをしっかりとサポートする)</li>
<li>仕上がりの外観</li>
<li>トップレイヤーをサポートする</li>
<li>柔軟性 (TPU/TPE材のプリント)</li>
</ul>
<h4>ジャイロイドインフィル</h4>
<p>ジャイロイドは、ベストなオールラウンドインフィルの1つです。</p>
<ul>
<li>3D構造です -  <strong>全ての方向で一定の強度</strong>になります。</li>
<li>この構造はかなり <strong>速く</strong> プリントできます。</li>
<li> 同一レイヤーでパスが<strong>交差しません</strong> 。</li>
<li> <strong>強度/重さについて良好なバランス</strong>になります</li>
<li>(あくまでも主観ですが) <strong>結構きれいに</strong>仕上がります</li>
</ul>
<h3>トップ塗りつぶしパターン</h3>
<p>最上層レイヤーにのみ適用され、その下の隣接するソリッドレイヤーなどには影響しないカスタムインフィルパターンが選択できます。&nbsp;</p>
<h3>ボトム塗りつぶしパターン</h3>
<p>上部の隣接するソリッドレイヤーではなく、最下層のレイヤーにのみ適用されるカスタムインフィルパターンが選択できます。</p>
<h3>インフィルをXレイヤー毎に結合する</h3>
<p>プリント品質を犠牲にせず速くプリントするために、外周とは異なる積層高さでのインフィルが形成されます。<br />
例: プリントレイヤーピッチが0.1mmで、インフィルを3レイヤー毎に結合するという指定をすると、インフィルは0.3mmピッチでプリントされます。</p>
<div class="note-callout">最大の積層高さは、ノズルの直径によって決まります（最大値はおよそノズル直径の80％）。0.4mmノズルを使用しているときに、外周の積層高さが0.3mm設定で結合を2レイヤー毎と設定しようとすると、制限の0.32mm以上になってしまうので、実際には結合しなくなります。</div>
<div><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-300x169.png 300w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-600x337.png 600w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-768x432.png 768w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-800x450.png 800w" alt="" width="699" height="393"></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><em>壁の断面拡大イメージ：インフィル(グレー)は外周レイヤー(オレンジ)の高さの2倍でプリントされています</em></div>
<h3>必要な場合のみインフィルを付ける</h3>
<p>このオプションは、インフィルが内部サポートのように振る舞います。上部でサポートが必要な領域のみ、その下にインフィルパターンを生成します。 このオプションを有効にすると、Gコードの生成が遅くなります（追加のオーバーハング計算を行うため）。 さらに、一部の領域ではインフィルが外周パターンから離れることがあるため、このオプションを使ったときはツールパスを入念にチェックすることが必要です。</p>
<div class="note-callout">このオプションは、サポートの <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/support-material_1698#overhang-threshold">オーバーハングのしきい値</a>設定が反映されません。</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed-300x195.png 300w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed-600x391.png 600w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed-768x500.png 768w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed-800x521.png 800w" alt="" width="654" height="426"><em>必要な場合のみインフィルを付けるオプションを有効にした場合の球</em></p>
<h3>ソリッドインフィルを各Xレイヤー毎に</h3>
<p>この機能により、任意のレイヤー数ごとに強制的にソリッドレイヤーを作成することができます。これは、プリントパーツの強度を上げるのに役立ちますが、それが目的でしたら、外周の数やインフィルパターンの割合を増やすなどの方法を推奨します。このオプションの他の用途としては、断熱性を高める目的で内部に個別のセルを作りたいときなどがあります。</p>
<p><strong>0で無効になります。</strong></p>
<h3>塗りつぶし角</h3>
<p>デフォルトのインフィル角度。 クロスハッチングは、一部の塗りつぶしパターンで適用されます。</p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>ブリッジ領域は</strong> PrusaSlicerが最適な方向を自動で探すため、この設定はブリッジには影響しません。</div>
<h3>ソリッドインフィル領域のしきい値</h3>
<p>指定したしきい値よりも面積が小さい領域が、強制的にソリッドインフィルになります。</p>
<p><strong>0で無効になります。</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-300x92.png 300w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-600x184.png 600w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-768x236.png 768w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-800x246.png 800w" alt=""><em>(左)しきい値0、(中央)15、(右)100</em></p>


インフィル

Original PrusaSL13Dプリンターは、MSLAプリントプロセスに基づいています。 Original Prusa i3マシンとは異なり、このプリンターは高解像度LCDパネルとUV LEDを使用してレジンの薄層を硬化し、前例のないレベルの精細さを実現します。

Original Prusa SL1キット組立て

組立てガイド

基本的なキャリブレーション

キャリブレーション中にプリンターがエラーメッセージ発した場合の対処方法。

キャリブレーションエラーメッセージ

パーフェクトプリントを実現するための、3Dプリンターを調整する方法を学ぶために知っておく必要のあるすべての情報。

キャリブレーション

プリンターの説明

プリンターの機能

shop.prusa3d.comで購入する前または後に興味があるかもしれないFAQおよび他の有用な情報

一般情報

3Dプリンターとその機能の基本的な概要に加えて、PrusaResearchの一般的な情報。

あなたのプリンターについて

3Dモデル

材料ガイド

スライス処理

プリンターメンテナンス

Prusa Connect [進行中の翻訳]

このセクションでは、材料ガイド、プリンタのトラブルシューティング、およびプリンタの使用に関する一般的な情報を見つけることができます。

このプリンターを使用

プリント品質のトラブルシューティング

プリンタートラブルシューティング

QR Error codes [進行中の翻訳]

プリントエラーメッセージ

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related. [進行中の翻訳]

Troubleshooting [進行中の翻訳]

About [進行中の翻訳]

General [進行中の翻訳]

User interface [進行中の翻訳]

入力/出力

左ツールバー

トップツールバー

プリント設定

PrusaSlicer printer settings [進行中の翻訳]

Printer settings [進行中の翻訳]

Advanced options [進行中の翻訳]

SLA スライス処理

Other [進行中の翻訳]

PrusaSlicerスライシングソフトウェアの公式ドキュメント。 基本構成からモディファイヤメッシュなどの詳細設定まで。

PrusaSlicer

1. はじめに

2. Base & Tower

3. Covers & Platform

4. Electronics & Lid

5. Preflight check

Manual changelog SL1

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The printer is displaying the message: <strong>The Ambient temperature/UV LED temperature sensor failed.</strong></p>
<p>Error name: Temperature sensor failed</p>
<p>Error code: #10205</p>
<p>The SL1 has several sensors measuring the temperature of various parts and components of the printer. If a wire has been disconnected or damaged, or the sensor itself has been damaged it can produce this error.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<h4>Accessing the mainboard</h4>
<p>First, make sure the plug of the sensor has not detached from the A64 mainboard. To access the mainboard:</p>
<ol>
<li>Remove the 4 screws on the left and right-hand side of the printer.</li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 295px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 295px;">
<td style="width: 48.867%; height: 295px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1f6c9d2f3605283d.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1f6c9d2f3605283d-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1f6c9d2f3605283d-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1f6c9d2f3605283d-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1f6c9d2f3605283d-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1f6c9d2f3605283d-1536x1152.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.867%; height: 295px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/7049ff68b245c60c.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/7049ff68b245c60c-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/7049ff68b245c60c-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/7049ff68b245c60c-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/7049ff68b245c60c-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/7049ff68b245c60c-1536x1152.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<ol start="2">
<li>Unplug the wire that goes to the front USB port, before sliding the front panel off.</li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 18px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1adfef152fa6ad1b.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1adfef152fa6ad1b-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1adfef152fa6ad1b-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1adfef152fa6ad1b-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1adfef152fa6ad1b-768x576.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 18px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/c970b1effe1edc4a_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/c970b1effe1edc4a_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/c970b1effe1edc4a_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/c970b1effe1edc4a_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/c970b1effe1edc4a_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/c970b1effe1edc4a_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>You will now have full access to the mainboard and its connections. On the left picture, you can see the Ambient temperature sensor (thermistor) indicated by the yellow arrow, and the LED temperature sensor is connected together with its power cables, indicated by the green square.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1f2e402547a3b126_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1f2e402547a3b126_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1f2e402547a3b126_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1f2e402547a3b126_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1f2e402547a3b126_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1f2e402547a3b126_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/743e6333d8ab7cd3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/743e6333d8ab7cd3-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/743e6333d8ab7cd3-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/743e6333d8ab7cd3-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/743e6333d8ab7cd3-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/743e6333d8ab7cd3-1536x1152.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>
<h4>Ambient temperature sensor</h4>
<p>The sensor itself is found inside the tower, behind the back-plate. The sensor can be accessed by removing the screws on the sides</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/fd157deb23c62893.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/fd157deb23c62893-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/fd157deb23c62893-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/fd157deb23c62893-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/fd157deb23c62893-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/fd157deb23c62893-1536x1152.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="400" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/84e34282a2551a1b.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/84e34282a2551a1b-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/84e34282a2551a1b-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/84e34282a2551a1b-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/84e34282a2551a1b-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/84e34282a2551a1b-1536x1152.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4> </h4>
<h4><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/0fcf23bd33e55b60_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/0fcf23bd33e55b60_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/0fcf23bd33e55b60_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/0fcf23bd33e55b60_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/0fcf23bd33e55b60_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/0fcf23bd33e55b60_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></h4>
<p>You can check the integrity of the ambient temperature sensor using a multimeter. Unplug it from the board and measure the resistance across the leads of the connector, as illustrated below. Set your meter to 200K to be within the correct range. More info in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/multimeter-usage_2117">Multimeter usage [進行中の翻訳]</a>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/mm-thermistor.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="289" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>UV LED temperature sensor</h4>
<p>This sensor is integrated into the LED PCB. If you receive the error that this has failed, check and reseat the connections of the led panel, but it may have to be replaced. It is an assembly with a heatsink and fan and can be accessed from the bottom of the printer.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8194%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/cf1cdbf2c0f77b18_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/cf1cdbf2c0f77b18_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/cf1cdbf2c0f77b18_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/cf1cdbf2c0f77b18_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/cf1cdbf2c0f77b18_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/cf1cdbf2c0f77b18_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9107%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/c318aa2e8f5889e2_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/c318aa2e8f5889e2_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/c318aa2e8f5889e2_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/c318aa2e8f5889e2_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/c318aa2e8f5889e2_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/c318aa2e8f5889e2_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Replacement guides</h3>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/how-to-replace-a-uv-led-assembly-sl1_149828">How to replace a UV LED assembly (SL1) [進行中の翻訳]</a></p>
<p></p>


Temperature sensor failed #10205 (SL1/SL1S)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The printer is displaying the message: <strong>The update of the firmware failed! Restart the printer and try again.</strong></p>
<p>Error name: Firmware update failed</p>
<p>Error code: #10534</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>The flashing of the firmware failed. There can be several reasons for this:</p>
<ul>
<li>The firmware file is corrupted or the USB stick was removed during the flashing process.</li>
<li>The printer lost its network connection during an OTA update.</li>
</ul>
<p>If the previous points check out then look into:</p>
<ul>
<li>The firmware you are flashing is of a version too far ahead of the existing firmware. Try to flash the firmware version after the one you have. For example, do not update directly from 1.2.0 to 1.4.0, without updating to 1.3.0 first.</li>
</ul>
<p>For older versions of the firmware, see the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/firmware-changelog/#sl1">firmware changelog for older firmware</a>.</p>
<h3>Guides</h3>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/firmware-updating-sl1-sl1s_124776">Firmware updating (SL1)</a></p>
<p></p>


Firmware update failed #10534 (SL1)

<p>If the print does not appear on the printing platform, nor at the bottom of the resin tank, there are a couple of possible causes:</p>
<ul>
<li>Highly insufficient exposure times</li>
<li>Old or separated resin</li>
<li>A large amount of Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) in the resin/on platform</li>
<li>Faulty UV LED panel,</li>
<li>Faulty print display</li>
</ul>
<h3>Insufficient/Incorrect exposure times</h3>
<p>Make sure you are using the correct preset with the recommended exposure times for your resin, in PrusaSlicer. If your resin does not have a dedicated preset, use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/resin-calibration-sl1-sl1s_112182">Resin Calibration (SL1/SL1S) [進行中の翻訳]</a> to determine the correct values.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Changeexposure-2021-04_13-06_4.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Changeexposure-2021-04_13-06_4-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Changeexposure-2021-04_13-06_4-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Changeexposure-2021-04_13-06_4-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Changeexposure-2021-04_13-06_4-768x461.jpg 768w" alt="" width="600" height="360"></p>
<h3>Old or separated resin</h3>
<p>If the resin is not stored correctly, or you use the same batch, again and again, it can lose its original properties and won’t solidify anymore. Try a new batch of resin if you kept re-using one batch several times.</p>
<p>If the resin remains in the vat for too long it can start separating its reactive components and its oil solution (notice the lines of color difference in the picture below). Even though the printer will stir the resin using its tilt platform it may not be sufficient. With a gloved finger or a spatula, carefully stir the resin until its color is uniform.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resintankSL1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resintankSL1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resintankSL1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resintankSL1-768x432.jpg 768w" alt="" height="400"></p>
<h3>A large amount of Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) in the resin/on the platform</h3>
<p>If the platform is still wet of IPA after cleaning when the print begins, the IPA will repel the resin and the print will not stick to the platform upon exposure. Make sure you wipe the platform dry before starting your print.</p>
<p>If a lot of IPA has dripped into the resin tank it can dilute the resin to the point where it will lose some of its properties. Empty the tank and try a new batch of resin.</p>
<h3>Faulty print display or UV LED panel</h3>
<p>Check whether the UV panel and LCD screen work as intended – Run the Display test, found at <em>Settings -&gt; Calibration-&gt; Display test</em><em>.</em> Follow the onscreen instructions.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Calibration-2021-04_13-05_0.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Calibration-2021-04_13-05_0-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Calibration-2021-04_13-05_0-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Calibration-2021-04_13-05_0-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Calibration-2021-04_13-05_0-768x461.jpg 768w" alt="" width="600" height="360"></p>
<p>If the logo does not appear on the display, but it is lit from the back, check the display’s wiring. To do so, remove the black cover secured by eight screws, then inspect the cable leading from the exposition (print) display. You can carefully disconnect and reconnect the cable header from the mainboard to ensure that it is seated correctly.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">See our guide for <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/how-to-replace-the-print-display-sl1_133295">replacing the print display</a>.</div>
<p>If it remains completely dark may be due to a faulty UV LED panel. Check its wiring by unplugging it and plugging it back in, making sure the connector is seated properly. Test the display again and if it still does not work it will have to be replaced.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Make sure the cooling fan for the UV LED panel is working. Without it, both the UV LED panel and print display can overheat and be damaged.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/testLCDSl1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/testLCDSl1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/testLCDSl1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/testLCDSl1-768x432.jpg 768w" alt=""></p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you need to change your print display, you need to calibrate the display to your machine. Both are <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/sl1-cw1/1276-sl1-print-display-assembly-with-uv-calibrator.html">available in the e-shop as a bundle</a>, if you do not <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/sl1-cw1/953-assembled-print-display.html">have a calibrator already</a>.</div>
<p></p>


Print doesn't appear / Resin does not solidify

<p>The printing platform must be perfectly flat and degreased to ensure that the first prints are properly attached. If the pad or print itselfs separates from the printing platform, it can be caused by bumps on the platform, poor calibration, or dirt/grease on the platform.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/breakfromplat.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/breakfromplat-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/breakfromplat-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/breakfromplat-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/breakfromplat-800x450.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Make sure the <strong>platform is perfectly clean and degreased.</strong> Wash the entire platform in IPA carefully to ensure it is completely degreased. <strong>Consider re-calibrating the printer</strong> to make sure the platform is in good contact with the bottom of the tank.</div>
<div class="note-callout">It is possible to sand down the platform&rsquo;s surface with a 1000-grit sandpaper, however, this procedure is <strong>recommended only to experienced users</strong>, since incorrect approach could damage the platform. Be gentle and make it even.</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p></p>


Prints breaking away from the platform

<p>A skewed/deformed print is usually caused by <strong>loose screws</strong> – either the <strong>large black knob</strong> at the top of the cantilever, the screw(s) on the cantilever itself or the <strong>resin tank screws</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daeb7d439d9e1519_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daeb7d439d9e1519_painted-473x400.jpeg 473w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daeb7d439d9e1519_painted-710x600.jpeg 710w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daeb7d439d9e1519_painted-300x254.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daeb7d439d9e1519_painted-768x649.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daeb7d439d9e1519_painted-1536x1299.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="473" height="400"></p>
<h3>Solution</h3>
<h4>Cantilever screw(s)</h4>
<p>Make sure the cantilever screw(s) is tightened up firmly. If not, the whole platform might shift and you must <strong>redo the printer calibration</strong>. After getting to the corresponding step of the calibration, follow the on-screen instructions. To ensure that the geometry of the printer is not shifted when tightening, <strong>tighten the screw slowly but firmly.</strong> To apply enough torque, <strong>use the short end of the Allen wrench.</strong>&nbsp;(as depicted below).</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_cantilever.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_cantilever-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_cantilever-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_cantilever-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_cantilever.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="800" height="480"></p>
<h4>Knob and tank</h4>
<p>Make sure the printer is properly calibrated. By moving the platform, ensure it is inserted all the way in. Tighten the black knob at the top of the tower. (left picture)</p>
<p>Also, tighten both resin tank screws evenly using the same amount of force (right picture).</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_knob.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_knob-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_knob-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_knob-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_knob.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="800" height="480"></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/tighten-resin_tank.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/tighten-resin_tank-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/tighten-resin_tank-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/tighten-resin_tank-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/tighten-resin_tank.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="800" height="480"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p></p>


Skewed / deformed prints (SL1/SL1S)

<p>Even though SLA printers can achieve much better resolution than standard FFF/FDM 3D printers, layers on objects can be still visible if you look very closely. If you feel like the layers on your prints are too visible, there’s a couple of things you can try.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">
<p>Print a sample object with a good/tested resin (like the sample bottle of Prusa Orange) and see if the issue is still present. If it’s not, then the cause is usually related to slicing settings.</p>
</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h3>Possible solutions</h3>
<ul>
<li>Try rotating the object to eliminate gradually rising/declining surfaces.</li>
<li>Extreme exposure times can also produce visible layers.</li>
<li>Mixed / low-quality resins can also affect the print quality – use a fresh, high-quality resin and shake the bottle for at least 20 seconds before you pour the resin in the tank.</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/visible-layers.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/visible-layers-300x187.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/visible-layers-600x374.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/visible-layers-768x479.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/visible-layers-800x499.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<p></p>


Visible layers (SL1/SL1S)

<p>In case the first layer did not stick to the printing platform, it would remain stuck at the bottom of the tank.</p>
<p>No matter how big or how small the stuck layer is, here is a quick safe way that will help you remove it from the FEP film, without damaging it:</p>
<ol>
<li>Unscrew the resin tank screws and remove the tank</li>
<li>Take an empty bottle and insert the bundled funnel/filter in it</li>
<li>One of the tank corners has a different shape, use it to pour the resin from the tank into the bottle. Always pour used resin into a new bottle; don’t mix it with unused liquid – especially if the print failed.</li>
<li>Wipe the tank with a soft paper cloth. The layer that got stuck should be now fully visible</li>
<li>Keep the tank in a horizontal position and use your fingertips (as shown in the picture below) to detach the solidified layer from the bottom. Use a reasonable amount of force and don’t use your fingernails. If the layer is larger, start from the edges and use a circular motion to detach it evenly. You will usually hear the sound of the layer detaching from the FEP film – this indicates that it’s working.</li>
</ol>
<p>Once the stuck object is removed, clean the printer and the tank and try printing a sample object. If the print fails again, re-run the calibration process. The most common cause of this issue is an incorrect Z-offset of the printing platform.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank-300x201.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank-597x400.png 597w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank-768x514.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank-800x536.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Using the plastic spatula that comes with the printer can assist in removing the hardened piece of resin.</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank2.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank2-300x203.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank2-593x400.png 593w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank2-768x518.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank2-800x540.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Make sure there are no small pieces of the residue of hardened resin before you start another print!</div>
<p></p>


Removing and object stuck to the bottom of the tank

<p>Bubbles or small scratches (also appearing like cracks) on the object are caused by small pieces of dirt or debris in the tank (vat) you are using. These small objects travel in the tank during printing, creating paths that resemble scratches as they move.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/scratcg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/scratcg-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/scratcg-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/scratcg-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/scratcg-800x450.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<div class="tip-callout">
<p>Make sure that the resin is 100% pure and free of small dirt particles. Filter the contaminated resin, for example, through a coffee filter. Also make sure your print tray is 100% clean and there are no dirt particles on the FEP film. Rinse the tank in warm water and then dry it with a paper towel.</p>
</div>
<p></p>


Scratches/bubbles on prints (SL1/SL1S)

<p>Broken supports (or missing parts of supports) are usually caused by incorrect settings in the PrusaSlicer. The supports are either too thin or the exposure time is set to a value too low. In some cases, this can be also caused by a dirty FEP film.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Try printing one of the sample objects to see whether the issue remains. If the sample object was printed without trouble, reset your PrusaSlicer settings.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/brokensuppSL1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/brokensuppSL1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/brokensuppSL1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/brokensuppSL1-768x433.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/brokensuppSL1-800x451.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">If the sample object has the same sort of trouble, inspect the FEP film in the resin tank – it may be dirty. In very rare scenarios, a faulty UV LED panel can be the cause.</div>
</div>
<p></p>


Broken supports (SL1/SL1S)

<p>If you encounter de-lamination, separated layers, or missing layers, the cause is usually in a broken SL1/STL file. Another cause can be a faulty UV LED panel or dirt in the resin tank.&nbsp;</p>
<div>Note that this is a different case than a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/missing-parts-sl1-sl1s_1794">lack of supports</a>, where entire parts of the print can be missing.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4-300x169.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4-600x338.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4-768x433.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4-800x451.png 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4.png" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you start a print that consumes more resin than the tank's capacity, you should refill resin right away when being prompted (max 3-5 minutes). This is to avoid artifacts and potential de-lamination. If possible use the hollowing feature in your slicer.</div>
<h3><strong>Solution:&nbsp;</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li>Try printing a pre-sliced sample object from the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">Prusa driver's package</a> and see if the issue persists. If it does, clean the resin tank properly and try again.</li>
<li>Continuous issues with separated/missing layers can be caused by a faulty UV LED panel – check whether it works correctly by removing the tank and initiating the Display test. Navigate the menu to <em>Settings -&gt; Advanced settings -&gt; UV &amp; Display settings -&gt; Display Test<strong>.</strong> Follow the on-screen instructions and inspect the logo through the orange cover through your smartphone or camera.</em></li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>WARNING: DO NOT LOOK DIRECTLY INTO THE UV LED, while it is TURNED ON!</strong> Even though the orange cover provides some protection if you want to check the LED panel look at it through your phone camera app or take a photo so you won't look directly into the light.</div>
<ul>
<li>If the tank and UV LED-panel checks out, the cause is most likely a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/corrupted-3d-models-for-printing_2205">broken object file (3d model)</a>. Either try re-slicing the model or download a new one.</li>
</ul>
<p></p>


De-lamination / separated layers (SL1/SL1S)

<p>The Original Prusa SL1 3D printer can produce objects with an incredible amount of detail – tiny wrinkles on cloth of a figure, texture of skin, thin railings on buildings, etc. However, in case the printed object is missing small details (not entire parts of the model), it can be due to incorrect exposure times.</p>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">Make sure you are using the correct preset for your color/resin in PrusaSlicer!</div>
</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure-1536x921.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="667" height="400"></p>
<h4><strong>Insufficient exposure</strong></h4>
<p>Too short exposure times will result in details being “melted” together. Increase the exposure times to recommended values to fix this issue.</p>
<h4><strong>Overexposed layers</strong></h4>
<p>Long exposure times will result in a “staircase” effect – the layers won’t blend into each other perfectly and some details may be lost due to this effect. Use the recommended exposure time values to fix this issue.</p>
<p></p>


Object missing details

<h3>Why is this happening?&nbsp;</h3>
<p>If the printed object detaches from its supports mid-print, it will fall into the resin tank, usually with the supports still attached to the printing platform. This is normally caused by a combination of the printed object’s weight and insufficient supports. Too heavy (solid) objects may be too much for default supports and as a result, they often detach once they reach a certain weight threshold/height.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>The first option is to increase the number of supports or the thickness of supports. Check the exposure times and change them to the recommended values.</p>
<p>The second option is to use the PrusaSlicer and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/hollowing_117285">hollow out an object</a>, to reduce the weight and use less resin. <strong>When hollowing out a model it is crucial that you create drainage holes</strong>. Uncured resin can be trapped inside the part it can also create suction/vacuum on the bottom of the tank and the object cannot detach properly, upon layer change.</p>
<p>It is also possible to hollow out models using Meshmixer or Windows 3D Builder, but it will require you to export a model that you then open in PrusaSlicer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/detachsupp-sharp-crop2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/detachsupp-sharp-crop2-474x400.jpg 474w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/detachsupp-sharp-crop2-710x600.jpg 710w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/detachsupp-sharp-crop2-300x253.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/detachsupp-sharp-crop2-768x649.jpg 768w" alt="" width="592" height="500"></p>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<p></p>


Print detached from supports (SL1/SL1S)

<p>Large holes (defects) in printed objects are almost <strong>exclusively caused by dirt on the FEP foil or loose particles in the resin</strong>. Tiny pieces of debris on the bottom of the tank will block the light from reaching the resin correctly. Dirt particles also have a tendency to grow during the print, which will increase the size of the hole through the course of the print.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holes-1024x573.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holes-1024x573-300x168.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holes-1024x573-600x336.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holes-1024x573-768x430.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holes-1024x573-800x448.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<p>Make sure the FEP foil on the bottom of the tank is perfectly clean. Empty the tank of resin, filtering it with the sieve to make sure any hard particles are not poured back into its bottle. Carefully remove any dirt / solidified bits.</p>
<p>If the FEP foil is cloudy, use hot water and dishwashing soap to clean and restore the original look. The FEP film is rated for 10 prints, but will most often last you longer than that.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you need to replace the FEP film, the printer comes with spares and it can also be found in our eshop for the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/fep-film-3-pcs-sl1/">SL1</a> and for the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/fep-film-3-pcs-sl1s/">SL1S</a>. Follow <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/fep-film-replacement-sl1_1963">our guide on replacing it</a>.</div>
<p></p>


Holes in print (SL1/SL1S)

<p>Most resins have a tendency to shrink by several micrometers after they are cured. These expansions and resulting forces can lead to layer warping and layer separation. However, these errors are usually limited to large solid layers.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">&nbsp;This printing error is caused by the physical properties of resins. Consider hollowing problematic objects, if you encounter layer warping.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/warpedlayerssl1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/warpedlayerssl1-300x193.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/warpedlayerssl1-600x386.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/warpedlayerssl1-768x494.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/warpedlayerssl1-800x514.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div class="note-callout">Warping can also occur during drying and curing of thin and flat objects. Consider the orientation and position of supports to mitigate this. Sometimes it can be resolved by removing the print from the platform after it has been dried and cured.</div>
<p></p>


Warped layers (SL1/SL1S)

<p>Each Original Prusa printer is shipped with a bundle of sample G-codes. These G-codes are tested and tailored specifically for your printer model and can be used either to see the printer capabilities or for troubleshooting.</p>
<p>Find your printer in the table and download the zip archive. Both the model geometry (.stl/.3mf) and the presliced version (.gcode) are included.</p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 594px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 18px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa MK4/MK3.9</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4-MK39-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4-MK39-gcodes.zip">link</a>*</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.1288%;">Original Prusa MK3.5</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;">TBA</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa MK3S+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa MK3S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa MK3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa MK2.5S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;">TBA</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa MK2.5</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;">TBA</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa MINI+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa MINI</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa XL 1T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-1T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-1T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa XL 2T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-2T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-2T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa XL 5T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-5T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-5T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa MMU3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK3S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK3S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa MMU2S &amp; MK3S/+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MMU2S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.1288%;">Original Prusa MMU2S &amp; MK2.5S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK25S_MMU2S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa MMU2 &amp; MK3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3_MMU2-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.1288%;">Original Prusa MMU2 &amp; MK2.5</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK25_MMU2-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa MMU1 &amp; MK2</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU1-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK2MMU-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa SL1S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">MSLA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa SL1</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">MSLA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><em>*The archive includes G-codes for both MK4 and MK3.9 printers. G-codes are sliced for Input Shaper and older non-Input Shaper firmware. To print the Input Shaper G-codes, please make sure your printer is running <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">firmware 5.0.0 or newer</a>.</em></p>


Sample G-codes

1.01

<ul>
<li>Note: The firmware downgrade is not supported for this version</li>
<li>Initial version.</li>
</ul>


1.0.5

<ul>
<li>Note: The firmware downgrade is not supported for this version</li>
<li>Fixed UI updates at print page right after timezone change</li>
</ul>


1.1.1

<ul>
<li>New chapter with printing errors</li>
<li>Warranty info added</li>
<li>Minor adjustments and improvements</li>
</ul>
<p></p>


1.02

<ul>
<li>Note: The firmware downgrade is not supported for this version</li>
<li>Multiple languages support</li>
<li>Touch UI improvements</li>
<li>Wizard improvements</li>
<li>Factory defaults protection</li>
<li>Bug fixes</li>
<li>Other changes (complete release log below)</li>
</ul>


1.2.0

<p>This is a bugfix release.</p>
<ul>
<li>Fixed UV LED exposure timing</li>
<li>Auto adjust tower profiles for reliable homing</li>
<li>Fixed bugs (see the full changelog)</li>
</ul>


1.2.1

<ul>
<li>Updated to match the latest changes in 1.2.0 firmware</li>
</ul>


1.03

<ul>
<li>Note: The firmware downgrade is not supported for this version</li>
<li>Print quality improvements</li>
<li>Vibration elimination while printing</li>
<li>Blower fan fixes</li>
</ul>


1.2.2

<ul>
<li>Note: The firmware downgrade is not supported for this version</li>
<li>Fixed tilt jerk in calibration</li>
<li>Fixed rehoming tilt when printing</li>
</ul>


1.2.3

<ul>
<li>New network management</li>
<li>New update system (OTA)</li>
<li>Localized user interface</li>
<li>User resin calibration (<a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/z2in03stzn-sl-1-resin-calibration">check out the guide and video</a>)</li>
<li>Improved graphics in Wizard/Calibration</li>
<li>Printer not calibrated warning at startup</li>
<li>Phantom click resistant UI</li>
<li>Fixed bugs</li>
</ul>


1.3.0

<ul>
<li>New web interface</li>
<li>Software licenses updated</li>
<li>Fixed bugs</li>
</ul>


1.3.2

1.3.3

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0">
<li>Updated texts to match the latest firmware</li>
<li>Calibration of custom resins added</li>
<li>Hollowing in PrusaSlicer added</li>
<li>PrusaConnect / Network printing section updated</li>
</ul>
<p></p>


1.04

<p>To install this version you have to update from 1.3.0 or newer.</p>
<ul>
<li>User UV calibration (<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/how-to-replace-the-print-display-sl1_133295">calibration guide</a>)</li>
<li>Parallel pre-print checks</li>
<li>Manual check for firmware updates</li>
<li>Simplified fan checks</li>
<li>Upload notifications redesigned</li>
<li>Fixed bugs</li>
</ul>


1.4.0

<ul>
<li>Added information reflecting changes in firmware 1.4.0</li>
<li>Added instructions on print display replacement and UV LED panel calibration</li>
<li>Updated firmware update information</li>
</ul>


1.05

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0">
<li>Fixed missing timezones</li>
<li>Fixed UV calibrator disconnection</li>
<li>Fixed data corruption on USB</li>
<li>Fixed resin volume warning</li>
<li>Fixed preprint warning delay</li>
<li>Fixed "printer is not calibrated" message during calibration</li>
<li>Improved system logs</li>
<li>Other bug fixes</li>
</ul>


1.4.1

<ul>
<li>UV calibration algorithm updated</li>
<li>Fixed cover check after resin refill</li>
</ul>


1.4.2

<ul>
<li>QR Error codes</li>
<li>Redesigned Settings menu</li>
<li>Advanced Prusa Connect Local</li>
<li>One-click print functionality</li>
<li>Top bar notifications</li>
<li>Firmware upgrade &amp; downgrade</li>
<li>Backlight and screensaver control</li>
<li>Project files thumbnails</li>
<li>Log upload improved</li>
<li>Print statistics</li>
<li>Others</li>
<li>Fixed bugs</li>
</ul>


1.5.0

<p>The firmware can be installed on both SL1 and SL1S SPEED, it will recognize the printer based on the print display and set the parameters accordingly.</p>
<ul>
<li>Updated Wizards and Selftest wizard</li>
<li>SL1S SPEED print profiles</li>
<li>Speed of first layers</li>
<li>Automatic print adjustments (large objects)</li>
<li>New power button behavior</li>
<li>Transition to DBus for IPC</li>
<li>Improved translations and localisations</li>
<li>Improved screensaver</li>
<li>Improved logging procedure</li>
<li>PrusaLink updates</li>
<li>Print display time counter</li>
<li>Improved cooling</li>
<li>Screen compositor Weston</li>
</ul>
<p></p>


1.6.0

<ul>
<li>PrusaSlicer 2.3.3
<ul>
<li>Patch release - fixing the bug in handling FDM multi-material project and configuration files</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>


2.3.3

<p>The firmware can be installed on both SL1 and SL1S SPEED, it will recognize the printer based on the print display and set the parameters accordingly. This firmware is required for the upgrade from SL1 to SL1S.</p>
<ul>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">New print display driver</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">Support for diacritics in filenames</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">Improved display counter</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">PrusaLink improvement</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">Preprint checks</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">Increased space for user prints</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">Other improvements and bug fixes</li>
</ul>


1.6.1

<p>This release is a small hotfix for the SL1 and SL1S:</p>
<ul>
<li>Factory reset fixed</li>
</ul>
<p>See full release log for more details.</p>


1.6.2

<p>This release includes two changes in the user interface and several bug fixes for the SL1 and SL1S:</p>
<ul>
<li>Preprint workflow changed</li>
<li>Print profile selection added to PrusaLink</li>
</ul>
<p>See full release log for more details.</p>


1.6.3

<ul>
<li>Multi-material painting</li>
<li>Improved supports and bridging</li>
<li>Shape gallery</li>
<li>Fuzzy skin</li>
<li>Windows dark mode</li>
<li>Brim for individual objects</li>
<li>Negative volumes</li>
<li>Automatic color change for logos and signs</li>
<li>Tip of the day notifications</li>
<li>Model simplification</li>
<li>Support for 3DLabPrint airplane models</li>
<li>New 3rd party printer profiles</li>
<li>…and more!</li>
</ul>


2.4.0

<ul>
<li>Added support for M1</li>
<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>


1.6.4

<ul>
<li>G-Code Substitutions</li>
<li>Added profiles for Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0</li>
<li>Added Artillery Hornet profile</li>
<li>Added RatRig V-Core and V-Minion bundle</li>
<li>Added Jubilee bundle</li>
</ul>


2.4.1

<ul>
<li>Support for new rear fan</li>
<li>Support for new DAC converter</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

1.6.6

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0" data-border="0">
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Updated translations</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Snapmaker printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Zonestar printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.4.2

1.7.0

<ul>
<li>New perimeter generator Arachne</li>
<li>STEP file format support</li>
<li>Lightning infill</li>
<li>Improved seam placement based on the visibility</li>
<li>Pressure equalizer</li>
<li>New printer and material profiles</li>
<li>Many bugfixes and smaller improvements</li>
<li>Offline unattended installation for mass deploys (in Drivers &amp; Apps package installator).</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.5.0

<ul>
<li>Fixed bugs</li>
<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

1.7.1


<ul>
<li>Improved 'Monotonic lines' fill pattern</li>



<li>Improved Acceleration control</li>



<li>Specific object arrangement for XL</li>



<li>Original Prusa XL profiles</li>



<li>Updated translations</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.5.1


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4 profiles</li>
</ul>


2.5.2


<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


2.6.0


<ul>
<li>New Arrange tool options</li>



<li>New Cut tool options</li>



<li>Per-symbol text projection on surface</li>



<li>Interlocking of painted areas for MMU printing</li>
</ul>


2.6.1


<ul>
<li>New SVG support</li>



<li>Binary G-Code (.bgcode) export support + conversion</li>



<li>Arc fitting support </li>
</ul>


2.7.0


<ul>
<li>Binary G-code settings</li>



<li>Wipe tower weight</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.7.1


<ul>
<li>Project thumbnail page while printing</li>



<li>Elephant foot and exposure times compensation fix</li>



<li>Help pages split between M1 and SL1/S</li>



<li>Red screen (error page) with a scrollable layout</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


1.7.2


<ul>
<li>Improvements to multi-material printing</li>



<li>Vase mode smoothing</li>



<li>Support for 3MF files generated in BambuStudio</li>



<li>Metadata with boundary polygon of each object</li>
</ul>


2.7.3


<ul>
<li>Objects from 3MFs generated by BambuStudio now retain multimaterial painting when loaded</li>



<li>Fixed a bug where downloading files from Printables did not work when enabled in Preferences</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa SL1

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