Filament type for in car / vehicle / camper van parts

Definition of unattended operation for 3D printers

Single layer 3Dprint (to create numbered signs for testing AutoFocus camera)

Wie kommt das GCode File auf den Prusa Mini?

Recommendations for donut colored filament?

Original Prusa CW1 to CW1S platform upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit assembly

Original Prusa SL1 to SL1S SPEED upgrade

Original Prusa MINI+ kit assembly

Original Prusa MINI+ semi-assembled

Original Prusa i3 to MMU2S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S to MK3S+ upgrade

Original Prusa SL1 kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK3S kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK1 to MK2 upgrade

Original Prusa i3 Plus 2.85 mm to 1.75 mm upgrade

Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm to MK2S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK2S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2S to MK2.5 upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2/S to MMU1 upgrade

Original Prusa MINI assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2S kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2 kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2S to MK3 upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK3 kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK3 to MK3S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2 MMU1 to MK2.5S MMU2S

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK3S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK2.5 to MMU2 v1.01

Original Prusa i3 MK2.5 to MK2.5S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK2.5S upgrade

Assembly manuals

Advanced calibration

Basic calibration

Calibration Error Messages

All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

Printer features

Printer description

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

About your printer

3D models

Material guide

Printer maintenance

Prusa Connect

Slicing

In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

Using the printer

Printer troubleshooting

Print Quality Troubleshooting

QR Error codes

Print Error Messages

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

Troubleshooting

Nozzles

Octoprint

Protective Shields

Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more.

3rd party accessories &amp; Other projects

About PrusaSlicer

Configuration and profiles

User interface

Input/output

Left toolbar

Top toolbar

Print settings

Filament settings

Printer settings

Advanced features

Multi-material slicing

SLA slicing

Other (PrusaSlicer)

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

<p>For the <strong>current estimated lead time on your placed order</strong>, please enter the <strong>order details</strong> in your e-shop account.</p>
<p><strong>Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ complete (assembled) printers</strong> have a lead time of <strong>3-4 weeks for new orders.</strong></p>
<p><strong>New orders of Original Prusa MK3S+ kits</strong> with no other items added (other products in the order may increase the lead time a bit at the time of preparation) have currently a <strong>lead time of 4-5 weeks.</strong>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>The Original Prusa MINI+</strong> with pre-assembled parts has a lead time of <strong>3-4 weeks for new orders.</strong></p>
<p><strong>The Original Prusa MINI+ kit</strong> has a lead time of <strong>14-15 weeks for new orders.</strong></p>
<p>Multimaterial upgrades, <strong>MMU2S are now in stock</strong>, <strong>shipping within 1 week</strong>.</p>
<p>All printer, kit, or upgrade orders are shipped in <strong>chronological</strong> <strong>order based on the product version and other items in the order</strong>. A slight delay can be caused by the batch production of black/orange parts or additional items or filaments in the order that might be temporarily out of stock when the order is due. Nevertheless, all orders of the exact same products are shipped chronologically.</p>
<p><strong>Information regarding SL1S and CW1S bundles -</strong> current lead time is <strong>3-4 weeks</strong> due to components delay we cannot affect. <strong>SL1S printer</strong> new orders without a bundle have a lead time of <strong>3-4 weeks</strong>.</p>
<p><strong>SL1 to SL1S upgrades</strong> have a lead time of <strong>1 week</strong>.</p>
<p><strong>Pre-order information on <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-xl-2/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Original Prusa XL</a> - Shipping is scheduled for Q3 2022, new orders will be processed in 2023.</strong></p>
<h3>Current lead times for new orders</h3>
<p><span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>Updated: April 22nd, 2022</strong></span></p>
<p><em>The dates are only an estimation at the date of update specified above and rely on the actual production. We're doing our best but please be aware that it can shift for the lead time products. We will update here and on the product pages accordingly.</em></p>
<p><em>For the <strong>current estimated lead time on your placed order</strong>, please enter the <strong>order details in your e-shop account</strong>. The table below is referencing newly placed orders only.</em></p>
<table class="table" style="border-collapse: collapse; height: 602.531px; border-style: ridge; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 60.5312px;">
<td style="height: 60.5312px; width: 47.2453%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Product</h4>
</td>
<td style="height: 60.5312px; width: 50.4654%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Lead time</h4>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 57px;">
<td style="height: 57px; width: 47.2453%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit</strong> (all versions)</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 57px; width: 50.4654%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>4-5 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 55px;">
<td style="height: 55px; width: 47.2453%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ complete</strong> (all versions)</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 55px; width: 50.4654%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>3-4 weeks<br /></strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 68px;">
<td style="height: 68px; width: 47.2453%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa i3 MK3/S to MK3S+ upgrade<br /></strong>Original Prusa MINI to MINI+ upgrade kit<strong><br /></strong></p>
</td>
<td style="height: 68px; width: 50.4654%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong><br />
Shipping within 1 week</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 68px;">
<td style="height: 68px; width: 47.2453%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>MMU2S</strong> - Original Prusa i3 MK2.5S &amp; MK3S/+<br />
Multi-Material 2S upgrade kit</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 68px; width: 50.4654%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>In stock<br /></strong>Shipping within 1 week</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 84px;">
<td style="height: 84px; width: 47.2453%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>SL1S SPEED/bundle</strong></p>
<p><strong>CW1S</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="height: 84px; width: 50.4654%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>3-4 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 84px;">
<td style="width: 47.2453%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 84px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa SL1 to SL1S upgrade kit</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 50.4654%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 84px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong><br />
Shipping within 1 week</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 58px;">
<td style="height: 58px; width: 47.2453%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MINI+ (pre-assembled parts)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="height: 58px; width: 50.4654%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>3-4 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 68px;">
<td style="width: 47.2453%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 68px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MINI+ kit</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 50.4654%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 68px;">
<p><strong>14-15 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Estimated Shipping Table for Original Prusa MINI+ kits</h3>
<p><span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>Updated: April 22nd, 2022</strong></span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Different lead times for <a title="MINI+ with preassembled parts" href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/994-original-prusa-mini.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">MINI+</a> with preassembled parts, ships within 3-4 weeks, new orders to be shipped in late May 2022.</strong></p>
<div>
<div class="note-callout"><em>The dates are only an estimation at the date of update specified above and rely on the actual production. We're doing our best but please be aware that it can shift for the lead time products. We will update here and on the product pages accordingly.</em></div>
</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; height: 813.5px; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 60.5312px;">
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 60.5312px;">
<h4><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Order week</strong></span></h4>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 60.5312px;">
<h4><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Date range (of the original order)</strong></span></h4>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 60.5312px;">
<h4><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Original Prusa MINI+ shipping estimation</strong></span></h4>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>52/2021</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>December 27 - January 2</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">Shipping last orders</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>1/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>January 3 - January 9</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">Now shipping</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>2/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>January 10 - January 16</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">Now shipping</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>3/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>January 17 - January 23</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">From May 2, 2022</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>4/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>January 24 - January 30</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">From May 9, 2022</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>5/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>January 31 - February 6</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">From May 16, 2022</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>6/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>February 7 - February 13</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">From May 16, 2022</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>7/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>February 14 - February 20</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">From May 23, 2022</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>8/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>February 21 - February 27</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">From May 23, 2022</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>9/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>February 28 - March 6</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">From May 30, 2022</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>10/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>March 7 - March 13</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">From May 30, 2022</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 52.9688px;">
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 52.9688px;">
<p>11/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 52.9688px;">
<p>March 14 - March 20</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 52.9688px;">From June 13, 2022</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>12/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>March 21 - March 27</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">From July 11, 2022</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>13/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>March 28 - April 3</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">From July 25, 2022</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>14/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">
<p>April 4 - April 10</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 50px;">From August 1, 2022</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p>15/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p>April 11 - April 17</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">From August 1, 2022</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p>16/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p>April 18 - April 24</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">From August 8, 2022</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 13.5849%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p>17/2022</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 35.4717%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p>April 25 - May 1</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 47.4214%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">From August 8, 2022</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><strong>Different lead times for <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/994-original-prusa-mini.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">MINI+</a> with preassembled parts, ships within 3-4 weeks, new orders to be shipped in late May 2022.</strong></div>
<div class="note-callout">All products purchased in our <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">online store</a> are currently being shipped from the<strong>&nbsp;Czech Republic,&nbsp;</strong>a member state of the&nbsp;<strong>European Union, customs charges may apply for shipments to countries outside of the EU!</strong> Please see our advisory article <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/vat-value-added-tax-customs-fees_1505#orders-outside-eu">here</a>.</div>


Shipping information

<p>The First Layer Calibration is used to calibrate the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the print surface. The aim is to adjust the nozzle height until the extruded plastic sticks nicely to the bed and you can see that it is being slightly squished.</p>
<p>The printers assembled in the Prusa factory are already fine-tuned and this calibration is needed only in case you build the kit version at home or change the nozzle. The First Layer Calibration is part of the Wizard (last step of the XYZ-Calibration). You can also recalibrate the first layer later on from the <em>LCD-menu - Calibration - First Layer Calibration</em>. During this process, rotate the knob to manually adjust the distance between the nozzle and the bed, while the printer is printing a zig-zag pattern.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">As <strong>each type of sheet (smooth, satin, and textured) has a different thickness</strong> you must use a different First layer calibration for each of them. For this, we have a convenient feature called <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<p>With a newly assembled printer, you will start at zero and move into a negative (-) value, reducing the distance between nozzle and heat bed. The initial zero-value is set by the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA. position. <strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed and moving the value away from zero.&nbsp;</strong>The value is unique to each printer and it may also slightly change with time and use. You must, therefore, <strong>check visually when adjusting the height, not by a set value.&nbsp;</strong></p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-300x169.jpg 300w" alt="" width="600" height="338"></p>
<p>The first layer calibration being set incorrectly can lead to various issues. With the nozzle too far from the print surface, you risk your print not sticking properly, which can result in a <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/extruder-blob_2005">blob</a>. On the other side, if set too close, you can experience extrusion problems and <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">clogging</a> and poor print quality, <strong>or even damage to the hardware, like the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">Flexible steel sheet</a> due to the print sticking too much.</strong> It is therefore <strong>important to get this right.</strong></p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-300x62.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-600x125.jpg 600w" width="600" height="125" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<p>Before you proceed, make sure that the print surface (satin, smooth, or textured steel-sheet) is clean. You can find information on how to clean it in <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/first-layer-issues_1804">PEI print surface preparation</a>. There are some small differences between how it should look on the textured and smooth steel sheet. We will, therefore, present pictures and guidelines for both, starting with the smooth sheet.</p>
<div>
<div class="note-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed.</strong></div>
</div>
<h3>Smooth sheet</h3>
<h4>Too high</h4>
<p><strong>You want the line flattened, but not squished.</strong> On the square at the end of the test line, you do not want any <strong>gaps between the lines (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">left picture</span>), which means it is too high.&nbsp;</strong>In that case, the value will be too close to zero</p>
<h4>Too low</h4>
<p>If the nozzle is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) you will see the line squished completely flat and the end square will have <strong>ridges between the lines, which is a clear sign it is set too low</strong> and the value will be too far away from zero. When it is too low, the edges of the square can also start curling upwards. In the extreme, the filament will be spread so thin you will be able to see through the printed filament, leading to clogging of your hotend.</p>
<h4>Just right</h4>
<p>A correct adjustment will show you an even surface (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), with no gaps between lines, nor ridges. As stated, the numeric value depends on the exact position of the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor, which will be unique to each machine and means nothing without a visual reference. <strong>However, a common range is from -0.400 to -1.500.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-800x318.jpg 800w"></p>
<div class="note-callout">Adjusting it closer can in some cases improve adhesion. However, if you are having problems with adhesion, but your first layer calibration looks like the 'good' picture (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), your problem lies somewhere else, like a dirty/greasy sheet, print-settings, bed leveling/XYZ calibration, or under-extrusion.</div>
<p><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-600x214.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-800x286.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-300x107.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-768x274.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-1536x548.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-2048x731.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1121" height="400"></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>You can not use the same first layer calibration if you swap between the Smooth and the textured sheet!&nbsp;</strong>For more information, please see <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<h3>Textured sheet</h3>
<p>The textured sheets are thinner than the sheets with smooth PEI, therefore you need to move the nozzle bit closer, but you are seeking the same results as with the smooth sheet. Again, if <strong>it is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) the filament can start curling up</strong> around the edges like it is not adhering. The numeric value will be too far from zero and must be adjusted back.</p>
<p>If set too high, you will see the line being round, and have gaps between the lines of the end-square. In this case, the value is too close to zero.</p>
<p><img title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg"></p>
<h3>Have a look at the nozzle</h3>
<p>A single layer is about 0.2 mm / 0.00787402 inch. Having a look at the nozzle and its distance to the sheet can also be helpful. However, measuring the printed layer with calipers is not a recommended method to calibrate the first layer.</p>
<p><img title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05.jpg"></p>
<h3>When to run the First layer calibration</h3>
<p>Generally, the&nbsp;<strong>first layer calibration</strong> should be performed every time there is a <strong>major change in the assembly.</strong> This includes changing the nozzle, extruder upgrades, or other updates to any axis. You should also run all calibrations if you move the printer to a different location.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For First Layer Calibrations with other nozzle diameters than 0.4 mm, please see <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">this article</a></div>
<h3>Other issues</h3>
<ul>
<li>If the width of the line varies across its length, you may have to do some <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/bed-level-correction_2267">Bed Level Correction</a>.</li>
<li>If the nozzle comes in contact with the bed, the SuperPINDA/P.I.N.D.A. leveling sensor is not being triggered by the flexible steel sheet and must be physically moved lower in its holder. This will bring it closer to the level of the nozzle tip. You should make sure it is adjusted as instructed in the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/9-preflight-check_76792">Preflight check</a> in the Assembly manual. <strong>If you move the leveling sensor you must redo the First layer calibration.</strong></li>
</ul>

First Layer Calibration (i3)

<div class="warning-callout">This is an&nbsp;<strong>advanced calibration</strong>, recommended only to&nbsp;<strong>experienced users</strong>.</div>
<p>The Extrusion Multiplier allows the fine-tuning of the extrusion flow rate - simply described as&nbsp;<strong>how much filament comes out of the nozzle</strong>. In other words, the&nbsp;<strong>Extrusion Multiplier</strong>&nbsp;setting in PrusaSlicer and the&nbsp;<strong>Flow rate</strong>&nbsp;setting in printer firmware are two ways to adjust the same thing, however, adjusting one of those two settings will not influence the value of the other.</p>
<p><strong>This procedure is not necessary with a new printer coming from the factory</strong>, but rather applies for specific applications and filaments. The ideal value is different for every type of material and every color. It can even differ from spool to spool. Bear this in mind if you change type and brand of filament often or use cheap no-name brands.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Total flow rate = <strong>Flow multiplier</strong> in firmware (M221) x <strong>Extrusion multiplier</strong> in PrusaSlicer. For those interested in diving deeper, PrusaSlicer uses the same <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Flow math as Slic3r</a>.</div>
<h3><strong>How to spot an issue</strong></h3>
<p>This calibration is used to fix two common problems:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Overextrusion</strong> - Too much material is extruded (flow is too high). It causes scarring of bottom layers and unnecessary material buildup on top layers.</li>
<li><strong>Minor under extrusion</strong>&nbsp;- Not enough material is extruded (flow is too low). It causes small gaps that appear between layer lines or perimeters.</li>
</ul>
<p><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-600x282.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-800x376.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-300x141.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-768x361.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-1536x721.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="852" height="400"></p>
<p><strong>Overextrusion</strong> is a common problem with many filament brands. It's especially problematic when you're trying to glue two parts of the model. <strong>If the top layer is over extruded, you'll end up with an uneven surface that will prevent a seamless connection between the two pieces.</strong></p>
<h3><strong>How to do the calibration</strong></h3>
<p>In PrusaSlicer, navigate to <span class="key">Filament Settings</span> and look for Extrusion Multiplier. The default setting (for PLA) is 1, this value represents a percentage, 1 = 100%, 0.95 = 95% etc. Usually, the adjusted values can be between 0.9 and 1.1. To adjust it, simply rewrite the value.</p>
<p><img style="max-height: 200px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/image-2019-1-15-12-55-6.png" data-hd-height="200px"></p>
<p>In the printer menu, during a print, go to the Tune menu and then choose Flow. Again, the usual values can range between 90 and 110, although that does not mean you can't go above or below that.</p>
<h4>Which method should I use?</h4>
<p>There are two methods you can use to calibrate the Extrusion Multiplier, and we'll cover both of them in this article:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Precise Method</strong>&nbsp; -&nbsp; using precision tools such as calipers or micrometers.</li>
<li><strong>Visual Method&nbsp;</strong>&nbsp;- an easy method based on observing the visual properties of your models.</li>
</ul>
<p>The choice of the method depends entirely on your preferences; in the end, both yield similar results. Even the visual method will enable you to have perfectly fitting parts with smooth &amp; flat top layers.</p>
<h4>Precise Method</h4>
<div class="note-callout">Please note that the following guide is based on <strong>default</strong> PrusaSlicer 0.4 nozzle profiles, with a layer height of 0.1mm - 0.2mm. This means that:<br />
- Nozzle size = 0.4<br />
- Extrusion width =&nbsp;0.45<br />
- Basic materials (PLA, ABS, PETG) Extrusion Multiplier = 1<br />
<strong>If you wish to calibrate the printer with a bigger/smaller nozzle or layer heights above 0.2, then you will need to adjust these values as well.</strong></div>
<ol>
<li>Download the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/cube-40-40-40.zip">Precision Method Cube STL</a>.</li>
<li>Slice it using the Vase Mode and your most-often used layer height and print it. You can find Vase mode (Print Settings →&nbsp; Layers and perimeters →&nbsp; Spiral vase).</li>
<li>Make three or more measurements in the middle of each wall and calculate the overall average thickness.</li>
<li>Calculate the extrusion multiplier using the following formula: <strong>Extrusion multiplier = (Extrusion width (0.45) / Average measured wall thickness)</strong>.</li>
<li>Adjust the Extrusion Multiplier in Filament Settings → Filament</li>
<li>Re-print the cube with new settings and go back to step 3 if necessary.</li>
</ol>
<p><img style="max-height: 220px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/micrometer-small-jpg.JPG" height="400" data-hd-height="220px"></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Please note that cheap digital calipers may not be accurate enough to make reliable measurements of a single perimeter wall.</div>
<h4>Visual Method</h4>
<p>This method does not require any tools, only your sight. The point is to make sure your top layers are <strong>smooth</strong>, <strong>shiny,</strong> and without <strong>scarring or filament buildup</strong> near the perimeters.</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-600x374.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-800x499.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-300x187.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-768x479.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-1536x958.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="641" height="400"></p>
<ol>
<li>Download the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/visual-method-cube.zip">Visual Method Cube.stl</a></li>
<li>Slice it using the default Prusa PLA presets at 0.20mm layer height and print it.</li>
<li>Inspect the top layer of your cube visually and with the tip of the finger.</li>
<li>If the top is under extruded or not smooth, then re-adjust the Extrusion Multiplier accordingly by 1-2%.</li>
<li>Repeat the steps above as long as needed.</li>
</ol>
<p>If there is&nbsp;<strong>too much material</strong>&nbsp;near the perimeters,&nbsp;<strong>decrease</strong>&nbsp;the Extrusion Multiplier value.</p>
<p><img style="max-height: 390px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/buildu.jpg" data-hd-height="390px" data-hd-align="left"></p>
<p>If there are&nbsp;<strong>visible gaps</strong>&nbsp;between layer lines,&nbsp;<strong>increase</strong> the Extrusion Multiplier value. (Microscopic gaps near the perimeters are OK.)</p>
<p><img style="max-height: 430px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/gaps.jpg" data-hd-height="430px" data-hd-align="left"></p>


Extrusion multiplier calibration

<p>A 3D printer's hotend can get clogged. This article explains the most common causes of this issue, which are usually the same regardless of the printer type or model. We then have a separate article with tips on how to prevent the clog from forming in the first place.</p>
<h3>What does it look like</h3>
<p>The most obvious symptom is that the filament is <strong>not coming out of the nozzle</strong>. However, please note that the hotend can also be clogged only partially. <strong>Partial clogs</strong> usually reveal themselves <strong>mid-print</strong>, even after you were able to load or unload the filament.</p>
<p>Early signs of the nozzle starting to clog are:</p>
<ul>
<li>The filament is not extruded out of the nozzle consistently</li>
<li>Printed lines look much thinner and sometimes not sticking to the build plate.</li>
<li>The extruded filament is curling up and sticks to the nozzle when purged.</li>
</ul>
<p>Another common sign is that you can hear some <strong>clicking</strong> or ticking <strong>sounds from the extruder</strong>. The extruder clicking noise means that the stepper motor has to exert more force than a specific preset threshold and it's jumping back by one or more steps (skipping) to relieve the pressure.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="note-callout">It is important to know that having a <strong>clogged hotend is not the same thing as having a clogged nozzle</strong>. The clog might be located in the PTFE tube (inserted in the heatsink) or elsewhere, so <strong>changing the nozzle is not a universal solution to this problem</strong>.</div>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><img style="max-height: 400px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/p-1000825-e.png" data-hd-height="400px" data-hd-align="center"></td>
<td><img style="max-height: 330px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/clo.png" data-hd-height="330px" data-hd-align="center"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>How to fix it</h3>
<p>There are three main methods of dealing with this problem. To choose the right method, see whether or not it is possible to load/ unload the filament. Partial clogs can usually be melted or cold pulled, more complex clogs that prevent even loading of the filament call for the third method described below.</p>
<p>Before you begin with any of these methods, <strong>unload the filament</strong> and remove it from the extruder. To make the work easier, <strong>move the extruder head up 10-15 cm</strong> from the <em>LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Move axis -&gt; Move Z-axis</em>.</p>
<h4>Cold pull</h4>
<p>A cold pull is a good place to start if you experience a clog. If the filament can be loaded and unloaded without any problem, yet it still causes trouble during the print, clean the inside of your hotend using the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/cold-pull-mk3s-mk2-5s_2075">Cold pull (MK3S/MK2.5S)</a> technique.</p>
<h4>Force the clog out</h4>
<p>In case it is not possible to load the filament, try to soften the clog by increasing the nozzle temperature and then force it out. This is similar to the cold pull procedure.</p>
<p><strong>To avoid any complication, toggle the Filament autoload OFF in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; F. autoload,</em></strong> before proceeding<em>.</em></p>
<ol>
<li>Go to the&nbsp;<em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em>. Set the nozzle temperature to 260 °C if you have been using PLA or to 280 °C if you have been using PETG or ABS.</li>
<li>After the nozzle reaches the required temperature, wait for 2 minutes - the filament should start pouring/dripping out.</li>
<li>Push the <strong>bundled acupuncture needle</strong> (0,3 mm to 0,35 mm diameter) into the nozzle <strong>from below.</strong> Insert it 1-2 cm deep, to help clear the clog. <strong>Never feed it in from the top and do not load filament while the needle is inserted.</strong></li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout"><span data-hd-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)"><span data-hd-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)">Be careful not to touch the hot nozzle with your hand!</span></span></div>
<ol start="4">
<li>If that did not help, try using a 1.5 mm thick 100 mm long, straight, rigid metal wire: insert it into the hotend to see how far it can go and push on it, trying to force the filament down into the nozzle and then out. You can also use the smallest of the bundled Allen keys. It is not very long though, so remove the filament sensor cover to reach further.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">Be very careful when manipulating this wire, we don't want to damage the hobbed gears or the PTFE tube.</div>
<ol start="5">
<li>Load some PLA filament. The new string should push the rest of the stuck material from the nozzle.</li>
</ol>
<h4>Clean the hotend parts</h4>
<p>If you didn't succeed, it is important to determine where exactly is the clog located. As said earlier, a clogged hotend is not the same as a clogged nozzle: the material can be jammed even above it.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you did not succeed to force the clog out, at least you can now estimate where does the clog starts based on how deep did the wire goes.</div>
<p>Open the Extruder Idler door and check if you won't see a piece of the filament sticking out of the PTFE tube.</p>
<ul>
<li>If you have an MK2/S, unscrew <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/Pi51Q431dI24DKDR.jpg">both M3x40 screws</a> with springs, the door should then open by itself.</li>
<li>If you have an MK3 or an MK2.5, unscrew <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/pJ12NOO1UYDu2vej.jpg">both M3x40 screws</a> under the hexagonal window (they also have springs on them).</li>
<li>If you have an MK3S or an MK2.5S, unscrew the single <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/3mQKqKUUYTLfaxL3.jpg">M3x40 screw</a> (also with a spring).</li>
</ul>
<h4><strong>Filament stuck in the PTFE tube</strong></h4>
<p>If the filament is stuck in the white Teflon tube, you need to take the hotend out from the extruder. Use <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-ptfe-tube-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_21664">this guide</a> to do so (steps 2 - 5). You will be left with the hotend exposed, hanging in front of you. Preheat it via <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperatures -&gt; Nozzle (260 °C if you have been using PLA or to 280 °C if you have been using PETG or ABS)</em> and see if you can remove the filament by pulling it up from the PTFE tube using pliers.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><span data-hd-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)"><span data-hd-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)">Be careful not to touch the hot metal parts!</span></span></div>
<p>Sometimes, it is necessary to remove the PTFE tube, in which case you need to push the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/YQ3xHHYCK3H3JXXa.jpg">black nylon collet</a> down towards the heatsink, in order to release it. While still pushing down on the collet, pull the PTFE tube out.</p>
<p>If the PTFE tube has been permanently damaged by the clog or in the process of removing it, <strong>you can purchase a new one</strong> in our online store (<a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3mk3s/929-hotend-ptfe-tube-mk25s-mk3s-mmu2s.html">MK3S, MK2.5S</a> or <a>MK2/S, MK3, MK2.5</a>). When you insert the new PTFE tube, make sure again it is properly secured by the collet: you need to pull the collet up about 1 mm while, at the same time, pushing the PTFE tube down. Doing this will ensure there is no play as <strong>the PTFE tube cannot move</strong> inside the hotend. <strong>Failure to secure the PTFE tube can cause clogging.</strong></p>
<h4><strong>Filament stuck inside the nozzle</strong></h4>
<p>If the PTFE tube is empty, some debris might be stuck in the nozzle. Unscrew it from the heater block (check <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/changing-or-replacing-the-nozzle-mk2-5s-mk3s-mk3s_2069">this guide</a> to see how to do that). There are two ways to clean it: mechanically or using chemical solvents.</p>
<div class="note-callout">If your nozzle has seen a lot of use, and/or is old it might be better to just replace it.</div>
<ul>
<li>To clean the nozzle mechanically, once it is removed from the hotend, heat it up using a heat gun or possibly a hairdryer, and extract the stuck matter with needle-nose pliers or a pair of tweezers.</li>
<li>If you were using PLA or ABS, it is possible to clean the nozzle chemically. ABS dissolves in acetone and PLA in tetrahydrofuran or ethyl acetate. Immerse your nozzle into one of these substances for a couple of hours to overnight and then use the needle-nose pliers or a pair of tweezers to remove the gooey mass.</li>
</ul>
<h3>After resolving the clog</h3>
<h4>Clean the Bondtech gears</h4>
<p>If you have had a clog, they can also have collected residue grinding the filament which will, in turn, reduce their grabbing force on the filament. Make sure you clean this out. Open the idler door and clean out each groove of the gear using a toothpick or the acupuncture needle that came with the printer.</p>
<p>Cover the PTFE tube to avoid any debris falling in. You can use a cotton swab - it will reliably cover the tube without damaging it). After you're done cleaning, give it a good puff of air to clear any remains, while the PTFE tube is still covered.</p>
<h4>Calibration</h4>
<p>If you have changed the nozzle you should redo, at least, the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration</a>, as this may have changed with the new nozzle.</p>
<p>If you have disassembled and reassembled the extruder and/or hotend, we recommend going through the full XYZ calibration, followed by the First Layer Calibration.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/xyz-calibration-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_112351">XYZ Calibration (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+)</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/xyz-calibration-mk2-5-mk2-5s_199651">XYZ Calibration (MK2.5/MK2.5S)</a></li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">To <strong>prevent this problem from happening again,</strong> check out <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/extrusion-problems-prevention_2027">this article</a> to make sure you're doing everything correctly.</div>


Clogged nozzle/hotend (MK3S, MK2.5S)

<p></p>
<p>A 'cold pull' is a technique that allows you to clean your printer’s nozzle and hotend from any material that may be stuck or burnt inside. You can also use it to clean your hotend during your usual maintenance routine.</p>
<div class="warning-callout" style="text-align: center;">Do <strong>not</strong> use the cold-pull method with Nozzle X! Only use cleaning filament.</div>
<p>The cold pull should be made if your nozzle is only partially clogged, and some filament is still being extruded. If the nozzle is completely clogged, please check the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">Clogged nozzle guide</a>.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Our testing has found that <strong>PLA works best for a cold pull,</strong> as other filaments do not retain the tip as PLA does and they will either tear or melt too much. However, there are filaments specifically made for cleaning hotends.</div>
<h3>Procedure</h3>
<ol>
<li>Go to the&nbsp;<em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> and set the temperature to 270 °C.</li>
<li>While waiting for the nozzle to reach the temperature, toggle the&nbsp;<strong>Filament autoload</strong>&nbsp;off in the&nbsp;<em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; F. autoload.</em></li>
<li>Still being in the <em>Menu</em>, go to <em>Settings</em> and choose <em>Disable steppers</em>. <em>There is no message of the steppers being disabled, but you may hear an electrical hiss disappear when selected. <strong>If you can move the bed or extruder on its axis by hand, they are disabled.</strong></em></li>
<li>Open the Extruder Idler door. <em>Unscrew the screws circled below using a 2.5 mm Allen key. On the MMU2S, unscrew the Bowden PTFE tube that connects the MMU unit with the extruder.</em></li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-600x600.jpg 600w" alt="" width="400" height="399"></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-300x216.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-554x400.jpg 554w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-768x554.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-800x577.jpg 800w" alt="mmu" width="400" height="290"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<ol start="5">
<li>Once it has reached 270 °C, insert PLA filament manually into the extruder and push it in until it starts pouring out of the nozzle.</li>
<li>Stop heating by pressing <em>Cooldown</em> in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Preheat</em> (scroll all the way down), or by pressing the reset (X) button. Let the nozzle temperature drop to room temperature. <em>To speed up the cooling you can engage the print fan at full speed, from LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperatures -&gt; Fan speed -&gt; [255].</em></li>
<li>Continue manually pushing the filament down until the temperature is too low for it to melt and come out (around 170 °C for PLA). <em>The nozzle has to be filled for the cold pull to be successful.</em></li>
<li>Pick away extruded material so there is nothing obstructing the pull later on.</li>
<li>After the nozzle cools down to the room temperature, go again to the&nbsp;<em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> and set the temperature to 85 °C.</li>
<li><strong>As soon as the extruder reaches this temperature</strong>, grab the filament with pliers and pull it slowly but steadily out of the extruder. <em>The filament can break inside. Make sure to pull straight upwards, not sideways. Hold the extruder with your other hand.</em></li>
<li>Don't stop until the filament is completely pulled out from the extruder.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Results</h3>
<p>On the tip of the filament that has been pulled out, you may see remnants of the previous material(s) you have been using or some burnt dirt that has settled in the nozzle (left picture). You might want to repeat this procedure several times until the filament comes out clean.</p>
<p>The right picture shows what a clean cold-pulled filament should look like. It is important to have the imprint of the nozzle on it, this way you are sure the nozzle was filled and nothing was left inside. Also, the color is not mixed with the one you have been using previously or have dark marks on it.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-300x214.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-561x400.jpg 561w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-768x548.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-800x571.jpg 800w" alt="dirty cold pull" width="400" height="286"></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-300x203.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-591x400.jpg 591w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-768x520.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-800x542.jpg 800w" alt="clean cold pull" width="693" height="469"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>After the procedure</h3>
<p>Secure the idler-door by having <strong>the head of the idler screw</strong>, on the left of the extruder, <strong>about flush with the plastic parts, when the filament is not loaded.</strong> Then we recommend running the Z calibration (<em>LCD menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Calibrate Z</em>) as pushing on the extruder might have thrown it off balance. Also, turn Autoload of filament back on, if you prefer this feature.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Please see <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/extrusion-problems-prevention_2027">this article</a> to learn about the most common causes leading to filament extrusion problems and how to prevent them from happening.</div>

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