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PID tuning

Relevant for

MK2.5
MK2.5S
MK3
MK3S
MK3S+
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PID tuning is a calibration procedure that ensures the printer holds a stable target temperature at all times. PID (Proportional Integral Derivate) is used on the Original Prusa printers to maintain a stable temperature on the hotend. You can use the PID tuning to calibrate its values in case you are experiencing small fluctuations in temperature readings of your printer's nozzle (e.g +/- 5 °C). 

If you are experiencing major temperature fluctuations, higher than +/-5 °C, there could be a problem with your fan or thermistor wire/connector.

How to perform PID tuning

Starting with firmware version 2.0.12., PID tuning is an optional calibration procedure, which is super easy to perform. It can be found in the LCD Menu -> Calibration -> PID calibration.

Follow these steps: 

  1. Once you open the PID calibration menu, set the temperature at which the calibration should run.
  2. To achieve optimal results, select a temperature you use most often during your prints (e.g. the temperature for PLA, PETG, or other favorite material).
The PID tuning will increase the stability for all temperatures, it is not necessary to make it multiple times for different temperatures.
  1. The nozzle will heat up to the selected temperature in 5 cycles. During these cycles, the printer will determine the amount of power needed to reach the user-defined temperature and maintain it. 

Be aware that PID tuning is not a solution for every temperature fluctuation issue. Always make sure that your printer is located in a dry environment with a stable temperature over 20 °C and no breeze.
 

6 comments

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Helder112
Hello Prusa,
 
in fact I'm havin issues on this temperature fluctuation. now I will need to perform this type of PID tunning to troubleshoot what could be wrong.
 
how it is possible Prusa sell Upgrade from mk3s to mk3.5 and half of old funcionalities were left behind?
what is the timeline to have this implemented? and I as a customer what I will get for the money I spend from the upgrade that make my printer worke worst?
 
Best regards
Helder
Jan Kratochvíl

Hello. We are sorry that you are having issues after upgrading your 3D printer. For troubleshooting, please contact our support team.

VINNIE3000
Will pid tuning be available for the MK3.5? I have installed E3D Revo 6 hotends on both my mini+ and MK3.5 and self testing unfortunately fails for the MK3.5. The Revo 6 prints very well 'untuned' but I have to skip the 'finish calibration' warning every time I print which is sometimes unfortunate when uploading using wifi functionality. Thank you!
Jakub Dolezal

Hi Vinnie, we are aware that some features are missing and we will add them to the new firmware including the PID, Revo and others :) 

GarHens
Is PID tuning in the new firmware now? 
dakota guglielmo
Is there a way to do this on 5.1.0 Beta for the mini?
David B.

Hi! 
Not the same way. On the MINI, MK4, XL etc., the PID values are set to work with the stock heaters and there is no need to change them. However, there are PID-related G-code commands such as M301, M303, M304:
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/buddy-firmware-specific-g-code-commands_633112

Thorsten
What about MMU2 Users?
Giuliano - Official Prusa CS
Hello. The PID tuning calibration remains available after the installation of the MMU2S.
StJohnny22
Is there a recommended setup for this tuning? How is it performed at the factory? I had thermal runaway error on 3rd layer when fan kicked on when I started looking into this. First time ran PID tuning with fan off, which made problem worse when fan kicked on (even faster Thermal Runaway error). Second time ran with fan on which made the first layer way too hot (about 15 degrees above set temp). Third time fan was runnning mid speed but hotend was halfway up the Z axis, so I when it kicked on close to the bed the draft brought the temperature way down and had thermal runaway error again. Finally did it again with the hotend homed on Z and moved to middle of buildplate at midspeed fan and have it working decently.   
It was working great before and I've logged many hours on my printer, so maybe it's a heat creep issue? Either way I feel as though I dont have it calibrated as well as it came from the factory.
David

Hi! The printer is calibrated from the factory. Use the bundled PrusaSlicer profiles for diagnosis purpouses. Try re-tightening the hotend heater molex connector for the Rambo board connection. If you have a multimeter on hand, [id=2117|title=try to measure the hotend heater resistance.] If the resistance is higher, please replace the hotend heater. There might be a transition resistance somewhere - which makes heat somewhere else.