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Prusa Research a.s.
Prusa Research a.s.

1. Preparing the printer

Step 1 of 10 (Chapter 2 of 14)
Contents
Comments
Before you start, make sure that:
the filament is unloaded from the hotend
the printer is properly cooled down
print head is at a height it is easily accessible at.
the printer is unplugged
you removed the steel sheet
This chapter is dedicated only to the MK3S+ owners.
Preparing the printer

Comments

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Real 3D Prints
For people that are wondering if any parts evolved, from one MMU2S to another MMU2S, there were three MMU2S printed parts that changed (In Feb 2023 I am assembling a 2019 NISB box MMU and noticed these differences). The selector now has an inspection hole, and the razor blade cover has an area that is enlarged where it contacts the blade, and the front PTFE tube mount has a better path for the razor blade to slide across it. So you definately should print those parts if yours has been sitting in a box and is not the newest. The selector and PTFE front mount should have a M2 on them instead of an M1.   Also, it is a good idea to read every single comment before doing any step.  The instructions might appear as simple as 'push this one part in' but there is a reason there are then 50 comments.
Tomasz
To anyone who is starting this. Consider extruder modifications for later. That modification is not required at this moment, and quite a few poeple reported missing or broken parts on various steps. So by delaying extruder modifications, you have working printer. Possibly even read all manual with comments first to see where the parts may break.
bryn51
It says "print head is at a height it is easily accessible at." without saying why.  In fact it is necessary to gain access to the rear of the x-carriage at step 2A.4 (and again later when its time to reassemble too).  So the x-carriage must be moved down from the topmost position (where it sits at the end of a job) to a position about 50 mm down or a bit more; and this is down by rotating the worm drive (z axis).
Real 3D Prints
Dont rotate the worm cables or you will throw your pinda out of alignment.  Hold the printer button down and spin the dial to lower the extruder. If it is stuck at the top go the calibration/ go home and then hold the button down to raise it back up from the home position.
Aki
I was unable to do step 2 as one critial advise was missing.In step 1, move extruder up, so that it clears the unit is step 2.
Chrismartin
First of all, well done on the manual for the MK3S+...it was very well done and relevant all the time. BUT....Having JUST finished assembling and calibrating a MK3S+ I now find that I have to partially take it apart again to 'upgrade it' so that I can print with the MMU. I bought them both at the same time but it made sense to me to assemble the printer first. Do you think it might be kind to put a sheet of paper in with the MK3S+ that states in bold 'If you happen to have bought a MMU2s as well, please be aware that it will require a different set up for the extruder than the one you're about to assemble...so to avoid having to take it all apart as soon as you've put it together and calibrated it....blah blah. That's a good idea right? Or did it say that somewhere? I didn't see it if it did. I did such a 'nice' job too...tidying that cable away all neatly and everything! (Mumble mumble)
JimScheirer
yeah. should have read this manual first, but it wasn't included in the box so i just figured assemble the main unit, and then do the mmu2s.
David
Hi Jim! It is a safety measure to assemble the printer first, test it, and then add the MMU2S upgrade. Might save you quite some headache upon diagnosis if something went wrong during the assembly.