⬢Take two M3x10 screws and insert them in the holes. Doing this now makes the assembly slightly easier, but both holes are shallow and the screws might fall out. If this happens, you can continue without them and put them back later on (you will be notified later). Also note, that in few upcoming pictures the screws might be missing.
Hotend assembly was completely reworked from MK3 to avoid bad placement. Also any future maintenance is much easier.
⬢Place the hotend next to the Extruder-body, see the grooves in the printed part, which are in the shape of the hotend.
⬢Correctly placed hotend. Cables should point in the direction behind the hand, we will align them in the next step.
The fan has two sides, one has a Noctua sticker. Make sure, this side is facing inside the extruder.
⬢First, create a loop on the cable. Make sure the black protective wrap is close to the edge of the fan. See the picture.
⬢Place the fan on the extruder and proceed in the following way:
⬢Start by placing the fan's cable in the upper channel
⬢Slide the fan close to the X-carriage and GENTLY PUSH the cable in using an Allen key. Before you push the fan all the way to the left, place the cable in the X-carriage channel.
FINAL CHECK! The fan is oriented with the cable facing up, then the cable goes through the upper channel all the way to the X-carriage. In the X-carriage don't forget to use both channels. Make sure the CABLE ISN'T PINCHED along the way!
The fan-shroud was initially designed for M3x18 screw, but based on the feedback and to make the assembly more convenient, use M3x20. If your extruder bag includes only two M3x20 screws, please use another one from the spare bag.
The fan shroud is printed from ABS/ASA and located in the Upgrade bag.
⬢Insert the zip ties in the X-carriage like in the picture.
⬢Lower the X-axis at about 1/3 from the top.
⬢Turn the printer like in the picture with X-axis motor and shorter extrusions facing towards you. Align the bearings similarly to the picture. The exact position of the lower bearing doesn't matter for now.
⬢Place the extruder on the bearings, the top couple must fit perfectly. Make sure the X-carriage is facing towards you (together with the shorter extrusions).
⬢Using right hand rotate the motor to its original position and hold it (tension is applied to the belt).
⬢Using two fingers on your left hand push the belt together. Very small force should be needed for bending the belt, BUT the belt shouldn't be bent by its own weight before being pressed with your fingers, it must be straight.
If you are struggling to rotate the motor back into position, the belt tension is too high.
⬢Depending on the belt being under or overstretched, adjust the amount of the belt in the X-carriage.
⬢When done, rotate the motor to its original position and tighten the M3 screws again.
⬢Use the technique described below to test if the belt is properly stretched.
⬢Use pliers to hold the X-axis motor shaft.
⬢Move the extruder towards the X-axis motor. Don't use excessive force.
⬢If the belt is stretched properly, you should feel a resistance and the extruder won't move at all. If the belt is too loose, it will deform (create a "wave") and jump over the teeth on the pulley.
Belt too loose? Return to step 49 and repeat all steps until now. You have to rotate the motor and retighten the belt in the X-carriage. Shortening the belt length by moving one or two teeth outside X-carriage should be enough.
Your belt might be already trimmed, simply skip the trimming instructions and insert it in the X-carriage.
For the following step we recommend getting a white marker, but you can also trim the belt without it.
⬢Measure the part, which must be trimmed and gently take the end of the belt away, from the X-carriage, but make sure at least 3-4 teeth are still in the X-carriage, as you don't want to lose the tension. If possible make a mark, where to cut the belt.
⬢Ensure again your mark is in the correct position and the belt is still stretched.
⬢Using pliers cut the belt and push it inside X-carriage. Use screwdriver or Allen key, if needed.
In this step, we will finish tensioning the belt. Please read the instructions first, your belt might have proper tension already.
⬢First, slightly release all the screws holding the motor, otherwise, the upper "tensioner" won't work (the motor must be able to move).
ATTENTION !!! BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WHILE TIGHTENING, YOU CAN CRACK THE PART IF YOU OVER TIGHT THE SCREW.
⬢Using Allen key start tightening the M3x18 screw inside the X-end-motor, but after each turn or two check the tension in the belt.
⬢For the optimal performance, the belt must be a bit harder to press with your fingers. Move the extruder all the way to the X-end-idler and try the belt tension in the middle of the X-axis.
⬢When you achieve optimal tension, please tighten the screws again.
In case you experience X-axis failure during calibration or skipped layers in the X direction, you can adjust this screw accordingly. Tightening the screw stretches the belt. Releasing the screw has opposite effect. Each time don't forget to release the screws on the motor first.
⬢Use two zip ties and push them through the upper slots on the cable-holder.
⬢ATTENTION! Before tightening the zip ties add the cables from the hotend. Use the channel in the printed part to arrange them properly.
⬢Once the hotend cables are included, tighten the zip ties and cut remaining parts.
⬢Open the textile sleeve and insert the cables from the hotend.
⬢Compare the look of the cable management with the last picture.
The zip tie arrangement was tested with the injection-molded double spool holder (provided in the kit and assembled later on). If you intend to use any other frame-mounted type holder, make sure the zip ties won't crash into it, which might result in a print failure.