7. PSU & Heatbed assembly

7. PSU & Heatbed assembly

7. PSU & Heatbed assembly
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Last updated 4 years ago
7. PSU & Heatbed assembly
 Difficulty
Moderate
 Steps
20
 Available languages
Connecting PSU-Y part
Connecting PSU-Y part
Connecting PSU-Y part
M3x18 screws (2 pcs)
M3w washers (2 pcs)
M3n nuts (2 pcs)
Insert M3n nuts in PSU-Y-part nut traps.
To insert nuts inside traps, you can use similar "on screw" technique as for the extruder assembly. For more go back to new_window=true.
Assembling PSU-Y-part
Assembling PSU-Y-part
Assembling PSU-Y-part
Using 2.5mm Allen key, tie the PSU-Y-part to the PSU-cover.
If there is a gap, use the screws to contract it.
Main power cables guide
Main power cables guide
Main power cables guide
Guide the low voltage cables from the PSU under the threaded rods to the other side of the frame as shown in the picture.
Tie the low voltage power cables to both threaded rods.
Do not tighten them too much, otherwise you can damage cable insulation.
Configuring the PSU
Configuring the PSU
Configuring the PSU
Check the switch position on the side of the PSU if it's in correct position.
Make sure that the power supply is not connected to mains!
Correct position means that the switch is on the side with your mains voltage. (If you have 110/120 V mains [mostly America] the switch has to be on the left, if you have 220/230 V [Europe and the rest of the world] the switch should be on the right ).
You can change the switch position with flathead screwdriver.
This is very important part, if the power supply is configured incorrectly it can be damaged!
Preparing the heatbed
Preparing the heatbed
M3x8r screws (4 pcs)
Heatbed comes with the print surface (yellowish foil) already sticked on so DO NOT REMOVE IT and take extra care to prevent damaging the surface.
Assembling the heatbed
Assembling the heatbed
Assembling the heatbed
Using 2mm Allen key, tie the heatbed to the Y-carriage.
Tighten the screws with care. The threads inside the heatbed can be easily broken!
The screws should fit directly to the threads, if not, you could have turned the Y-carriage upside down, see Chapter 2 for the correct assembly.
Finalizing the heatbed
Finalizing the heatbed
Finalizing the heatbed
Tighten the Y-belt holder to the heatbed using the supplied 2.5 mm Allen key.
Make sure that the screws are screwed into the heatbed and no space is left between the nut on the heatbed and the Y-carriage.
Tighten the screws with care. The threads inside the heatbed can be easily broken!
If you have the Y-belt-holder with a slot, make sure that the screws are in the middle as shown in the picture.
Preparing heat bed cable cover
Preparing heat bed cable cover
M3x8r screw (1 pc)
M3 nut (1 pcs)
Note the white cable from the heatbed can be also in black version, however their function is the same (see the second photo).
Preparing the filament
Preparing the filament
Take the piece of filament that came with the parts ( length cca 30 cm ).
Push it all the way down in the filament holder hole in the heat bed cable cover. If you experience difficulties when inserting the filament use pliers to make a sharp tip on the filament.
The filament is for whole harness support. Don't cut it, it'll go all the way with the wires to the electronics.
Wrapping the heatbed cables
Wrapping the heatbed cables
Wrapping the heatbed cables
Use the spiral wrap and wrap nylon with the cables from the heatbed.
DO NOT cut the filament, you'll need the full length.
Note the white cable can be also in black version, see new_window=true. second picture.
Check if everything is correct
Check if everything is correct
Check if everything is correct
Take a look on the printer from the top side and make sure that lines on heatbed are perfectly parallel with the X axis rods as shown in the picture.
If they are not in parallel position, use 17 mm wrench to adjust the M10 nuts to get it correct. Use nuts only on the side close to left Z axis motor.
This is extremely important, if the things are not in parallel, you'll have huge troubles calibrating later on!
If you'll adjust the nuts, make sure that the M10 threaded rod is all the way down in the slot.
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