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Idler screw tension

Relevant for

CORE One family
MK4 family
XL family
MMU family
MINI family
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The Original Prusa FFF printers and upgrades use a screw(s) with a spring(s) to provide tension between the filament and the filament pulley. It is important to have this tension correct. If too loose the pulley will not be able to "grab" the filament, while if it is too tight the extruder motor can overexert itself and even start grinding the filament. With the exception of the MK2/S and MMU1, the correct tension remains the same across all of our printers. 

When printing flexible filaments (TPU/TPE) you want the screw even looser than what is depicted here. Please see Flexible materials for more information.

CORE One, MK4/S, MK3.9, XL

The Prusa CORE One, and the Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, and XL have two idler screws, that are inserted into the Idler Nut. The Idler Nut keeps the Idler, the part that includes the two driven gears, in place. The tips of the screws must be aligned with the front surface of the Idler Nut

Prusa CORE One

Original Prusa MK4S, MK3.9SOriginal Prusa MK4, MK3.9

 

Original Prusa MK4 with MMU3-modified extruderOriginal Prusa XL

On the Original Prusa XL, the dwarf-cover-door prevents access to adjusting the idler tension screws. 

On single-head XL, it is possible to gain access by rotating the dwarf-cover-door. On dual-head and five-head XL, with the tool in the parked position, loosen the M3x12 bolt to remove the dwarf-cover-door. 

MK2.5S/MK3S/MK3S+/MK3.5/MK3.5S

The idler screw should be about flush to protruding 0.5 -1 mm with the plastic part when the filament is not loaded.

Original Prusa MK3SOriginal Prusa MK3S+

MMU3 unit

Both Idler tension screws should be adjusted so that the top of the screw head is flush or slightly above the top surface of the idler-body, as a default setting.

MMU2S unit

The MMU2S requires a slightly different extruder but also has 1 idler-screw on the left side of the extruder, like the picture above. Roughly the same tension should be applied but it should only be adjusted as a part of the IR filament sensor calibration.

In addition to the screw on the extruder, the MMU2S unit itself has two tension screws on top (green arrows left picture), applying pressure to the filament upon load/unload. These should be slightly below the surface of the plastic part (about 1 millimeter) when the filament is not loaded to the nozzle (right picture).

MINI/MINI+

The Original Prusa MINI/+ has its idler screw on the bottom of the extruder, located on the Z-axis extrusion. This too should be about flush with the plastic, when the filament is not loaded.

MK3/MK2.5

This extruder design has two idler screws. The head of the screw should be about flush to sticking out 1 - 1.5 mm when a filament is loaded.

MK2S

The Original Prusa MK2S had a different extruder design. It has two screws, where the length of the springs should be circa 13 mm when tightened. After some use, it is ok to tighten them a little bit more, but the two screws must be equal.

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10 comments

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Justin
Idler door on the MK4S is a pain. I can print better without it. No matter what tension it is set to and even when using the new parts provided in the MK4 -> MK4S kit the idler never has the right tension, its just too tight. Well behind the face and it still jams and causes skipping.

Nextruder feels like a regression from the rock solid MK3 which I pumped thousands of hours on. 530 hours on the Nextruder feels like I am fighting the thing to work.
Newtcat
Why the $#@@ dont they make a seperate manual for each printer? Vs having to wade through all the other crap that has nothing to do with the printer. Putting together the MK4s was easy compared to installing a pre built MUU3
monosylabik
It looks like I did under tighten when assembling my Core One kit and got these clicking sounds while prints were ok. Decided to manage these constant clicks form the idler tensioner and did tighten the screws as shown in the picture — now extruder (or probably filament (PETG)) is screeching like hell. Had to under tighten the tensioner screws for about 3 full rotations - now it is nowhere near as pictured. Getting over extrusions now...
Triplehead
Just tighten it right.. I was assured that screeching is normal for PETG
Survival_man
Okay but when using 72D TPU, 64D, 95A, 90A, PETG, PC, etc... I'm pretty sure it has to be changed but there are no precise measurements here

What values should it be for the Prusa XL ?
EG
I followed the cold pull steps where is asked to take out the screws for the idler door and now I can't screw in one of the screws (the one on the left). I can't find any information about how to solve this issue.
David

Hi! Just make sure the screw goesx against a nut in the idler door. Help it engage by pressing a nut towards the screw if neccessary :)