Before you proceed, it is recommended to protect the heatbed.
⬢Take off the flexible steel sheet.
⬢Use any cloth or piece of fabric, which is thick enough and cover the heatbed. This will ensure you won't damage (scratch) the surface during the disassembly.
⬢Open one end of the textile sleeve and slide it on the cable bundle leading from the extruder.
⬢Leave the cables from the hotend out for now.
⬢Length of the first wrap should be slightly longer than the cable-holder part, about 5 cm is enough.
⬢Gently twist the sleeve to make it smaller and tighter around the cables, orient the sleeve's seam downwards, then slide the sleeve towards the extruder.
⬢Take 3 zip ties and insert them into the lower row of holes on the cable-holder.
⬢Twist the sleeve again (without twisting the cables inside) and tighten the zip ties.
IMPORTANT: Cut the remaining part of each zip tie using pliers as closest to its head as possible. Note the correct position of each zip ties's head (slightly off-centre to the left).
⬢Use two zip ties and push them through the upper slots on the cable-holder.
⬢ATTENTION! Before tightening the zip ties add the cables from the hotend. Use the channel in the printed part to arrange them properly.
⬢Once the hotend cables are included, tighten the zip ties and cut remaining parts.
⬢Open the textile sleeve and insert the cables from the hotend.
⬢Compare the look of the cable management with the last picture.
The zip tie arrangement was tested with the injection molded double spool holder (provided in the kit and assembled later on). If you intend to use any other frame mounted type holder, make sure the zip ties won't crash into it, which might result in a print failure.
⬢Good job! You just replaced the print fan on your printer.
⬢To ensure everything works as expected and all wires are connected correctly, turn the printer on and run the Selftest from the Calibration menu.
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