MMU3

<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade <br /></strong></p>
<p>The current lead time is <strong>3-4 weeks </strong>for both xLCD versions.</p>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; height: 28.375px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Order week</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; height: 28.375px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Order date</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; height: 28.375px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Shipping estimate</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 33.25px;">Week 33</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 33.25px;">starts August 12, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; height: 33.25px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Already shipped</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">Week 34</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">starts August 19, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; height: 101.203px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;" rowspan="5">
<p>Currently shipping</p>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">Week 35</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">starts August 26, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">Week 36</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">starts September 2, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">Week 37</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">starts September 9, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 30px;">Week 38</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 30px;">starts September 16, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">Week 39</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">starts September 23, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 54px;" rowspan="2">From week 46 (starts November 11, 2024)</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">Week 40</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">starts September 30, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 41</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 7, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 84px;" rowspan="3">From week 47 (starts November 18, 2024)</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 42</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 14, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 43</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 21, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 44</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 28, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;" rowspan="2">From week 48 (starts November 25, 2024)</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Week 45</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">starts November 4, 2024</td>
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<p></p>
<p> </p>
<h3><span style="font-size: 20px;">Current lead time estimates for new orders</span></h3>
<p><span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>Updated: November 4th, 2024 </strong></span></p>
<p><em>The dates are only an estimation at the date of update, specified above, and rely on the actual</em> production. <em>We're doing our best but please be aware that it can shift for the lead time products. We will update here and on the product pages accordingly.</em></p>
<p>The lead time estimate applies to standalone products, other products in the order may increase the lead time.</p>
<p>If you've ordered a product in a bundle, the lead time of the order is set based on the product in the bundle with the longest lead time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p></p>
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<h4>Product</h4>
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<h4>Lead time</h4>
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<p><strong>Original Prusa XL Enclosure<br /></strong><em>(standalone)</em><strong><br /></strong></p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
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<p><strong>Advanced Filtration System <br /></strong>(for Original Prusa Enclosure)</p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
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<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade<br /></strong>/MK4S upgrade for versions with old xLCD</p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>3-4 weeks</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>MK3.9 to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK4S upgrade</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>3-4 weeks</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK3.5S upgrade</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 upgrade kit (for MK4S/MK3.9S)</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>2-3 weeks</strong></p>
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<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK4S/MK3.9S) </strong></p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>2-3 weeks</strong></p>
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<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK4/MK3.9)</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK3.5S/MK3.5) </strong></p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK3S+) </strong></p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
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<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade<br />for MK4S/MK3.9S</strong></p>
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<p><strong>1-2 weeks</strong></p>
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<p>You can find your order shipping date in the order detail section in our shop.</p>
<div class="note-callout">All products purchased in our <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">online store</a> are currently being shipped from the<strong> Czech Republic, </strong>a member state of the <strong>European Union, customs charges may apply for shipments to countries outside of the EU!</strong> Please see our advisory article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/vat-value-added-tax-customs-fees_1505#orders-outside-eu">here</a>.</div>

Shipping information

<p>The First Layer Calibration is used to calibrate the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the print surface. The aim is to adjust the nozzle height until the extruded plastic sticks nicely to the bed and you can see that it is being slightly squished.</p>
<p>The printers assembled in the Prusa factory are already fine-tuned and this calibration is needed only in case you build the kit version at home or change the nozzle. The First Layer Calibration is part of the Wizard (last step of the XYZ-Calibration). You can also recalibrate the first layer later on from the <em>LCD-menu - Calibration - First Layer Calibration</em>. During this process, rotate the knob to manually adjust the distance between the nozzle and the bed, while the printer is printing a zig-zag pattern.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">As <strong>each type of sheet (smooth, satin, and textured) has a different thickness</strong> you must use a different First layer calibration for each of them. For this, we have a convenient feature called <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<p>With a newly assembled printer, you will start at zero and move into a negative (-) value, reducing the distance between nozzle and heat bed. The initial zero-value is set by the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA. position. <strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed and moving the value away from zero. </strong>The value is unique to each printer and it may also slightly change with time and use. You must, therefore, <strong>check visually when adjusting the height, not by a set value. </strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-300x169.jpg 300w" alt="" width="600" height="338" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>The first layer calibration being set incorrectly can lead to various issues. With the nozzle too far from the print surface, you risk your print not sticking properly, which can result in a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/extruder-blob_2005">blob</a>. On the other side, if set too close, you can experience extrusion problems and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">clogging</a> and poor print quality, <strong>or even damage to the hardware, like the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">Flexible steel sheet</a> due to the print sticking too much.</strong> It is therefore <strong>important to get this right.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-300x62.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-600x125.jpg 600w" width="600" height="125" loading="lazy" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p>Before you proceed, make sure that the print surface (satin, smooth, or textured steel-sheet) is clean. You can find information on how to clean it in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">PEI print surface preparation</a>. There are some small differences between how it should look on the textured and smooth steel sheet. We will, therefore, present pictures and guidelines for both, starting with the smooth sheet.</p>
<div>
<div class="note-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed.</strong></div>
</div>
<h3>Smooth sheet</h3>
<h4>Too high</h4>
<p><strong>You want the line flattened, but not squished.</strong> On the square at the end of the test line, you do not want any <strong>gaps between the lines (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">left picture</span>), which means it is too high. </strong>In that case, the value will be too close to zero</p>
<h4>Too low</h4>
<p>If the nozzle is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) you will see the line squished completely flat and the end square will have <strong>ridges between the lines, which is a clear sign it is set too low</strong> and the value will be too far away from zero. When it is too low, the edges of the square can also start curling upwards. In the extreme, the filament will be spread so thin you will be able to see through the printed filament, leading to clogging of your hotend.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Having the nozzle too low can cause the nozzle to damage your steel sheet. This is not covered by <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/warranty_2288">Warranty</a>.</div>
<h4>Just right</h4>
<p>A correct adjustment will show you an even surface (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), with no gaps between lines, nor ridges. As stated, the numeric value depends on the exact position of the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor, which will be unique to each machine and means nothing without a visual reference. <strong>However, a common range is from -0.400 to -1.500.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-800x318.jpg 800w" /></p>
<div class="note-callout">Adjusting it closer can in some cases improve adhesion. However, if you are having problems with adhesion, but your first layer calibration looks like the 'good' picture (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), your problem lies somewhere else, like a dirty/greasy sheet, print-settings, bed leveling/XYZ calibration, or under-extrusion.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-600x214.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-800x286.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-300x107.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-768x274.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-1536x548.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-2048x731.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1121" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>You can not use the same first layer calibration if you swap between the Smooth and the textured sheet! </strong>For more information, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<h3>Textured sheet</h3>
<p>The textured sheets are thinner than the sheets with smooth PEI, therefore you need to move the nozzle bit closer, but you are seeking the same results as with the smooth sheet. Again, if <strong>it is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) the filament can start curling up</strong> around the edges like it is not adhering. The numeric value will be too far from zero and must be adjusted back.</p>
<p>If set too high, you will see the line being round, and have gaps between the lines of the end-square. In this case, the value is too close to zero.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg" /></p>
<h3>Have a look at the nozzle</h3>
<p>A single layer is about 0.2 mm / 0.00787402 inch. Having a look at the nozzle and its distance to the sheet can also be helpful. However, measuring the printed layer with calipers is not a recommended method to calibrate the first layer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05.jpg" /></p>
<h3>When to run the First layer calibration</h3>
<p>Generally, the <strong>first layer calibration</strong> should be performed every time there is a <strong>major change in the assembly.</strong> This includes changing the nozzle, extruder upgrades, or other updates to any axis. You should also run all calibrations if you move the printer to a different location.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For First Layer Calibrations with other nozzle diameters than 0.4 mm, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">this article</a></div>
<h3>Other issues</h3>
<ul>
<li>If the width of the line varies across its length, you may have to do some <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/bed-level-correction_2267">Bed Level Correction</a>.</li>
<li>If the nozzle comes in contact with the bed, the SuperPINDA/P.I.N.D.A. leveling sensor is not being triggered by the flexible steel sheet and must be physically moved lower in its holder. This will bring it closer to the level of the nozzle tip. You should make sure it is adjusted as instructed in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/9-preflight-check_76792">Preflight check</a> in the Assembly manual. <strong>If you move the leveling sensor you must redo the First layer calibration.</strong></li>
</ul>

First Layer Calibration (i3)

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>PETG</strong> is one of the most easily printable materials, it is <strong>inexpensive and suitable for beginners</strong>. Relatively high tenacity and temperature resistance make it <strong>suitable for printing technical parts</strong> (for example parts of our printers).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 230 °C for the first layer, 240 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 85 °C for the first layer, 90 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Using powder-coated TXT or satin sheet is highly recommended. Printing on smooth PEI surface might damage the sheet.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<div>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-petg/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PETG</strong></a> (Polyethylene Terephthalate modified with Glycol) is a commonly used technical material, popular among 3D printer users for its <strong>low price and good printability</strong>. It’s tenacious, with good temperature resistance; PETG is most commonly used for printing various mechanical parts, holders, clamps, and waterproof parts (thanks to great layer adhesion).</p>
<p>PETG has a glossy surface, adheres greatly to a print sheet, and <strong>does not shrink or warp</strong> (it has very little thermal expansion), therefore it’s suitable for printing large models. Plus, its high tenacity and flexibility often <strong>prevent it from breaking.</strong> Due to good temperature resistance, PETG parts are suitable both for interior and most exterior use (with temperatures below 80 °C). <strong>Parts of our printers are made of PETG!</strong></p>
<p>The letter G in PETG means that it’s modified with glycol during the manufacturing process. Glycol makes PET less brittle, easier to print, and more transparent for translucent prints. Of course, you can print also with PET filaments without glycol. However, printing with only PET is challenging and does not offer any advantage whatsoever.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Even though PETG in itself may be considered <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/food-safe-fdm-printing_112313">food-safe</a>, it consists of layers, as every 3D print, in which bacteria can grow over time. You can prevent this by applying a <strong>food-safe(epoxy) coating.</strong> Also, a stainless-steel nozzle should be used for if food is the intended application.</div>
<p>Although <strong>PETG</strong> is frequently used in <strong>food industry</strong> and is considered <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layer surface grooves that can support numerous bacterial colonies. But if you still want 3D printed dishes, we suggest <strong>applying a special layer</strong> that seals the surface (food-safe coating) and printing with a clean steel nozzle.</p>
<p>Some of the manufacturers <strong>enrich PETG with various additives</strong> and sell these materials under different names. For example, Spoolworks EDGE by E3D is modified PET/Copolyester Blend with additives. The goal is to acquire better visual qualities, surface and layer adhesion, etc.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
</div>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Possibility of stringing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good layer adhesion</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Poor bridging and overhangs</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Tough and durable</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Not great for printing detailed parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Bonds strongly to the print surface</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High temperature-resistance</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Soluble in dangerous chemicals</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Water and humidity resistant</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Supports are hard to remove</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>PETG is used universally but is especially suitable for mechanical parts for both indoor and outdoor use. We use PETG to print parts for our printers! Plastic bottles are also made from this kind of material.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Temperature settings and cooling</strong></p>
<p>Unlike PLA, <strong>PETG requires a heated bed (85 °C).</strong> Its bridging- and overhang-behavior is usually worse, plus it is prone to stringing. Stringing can be moderated with higher retractions and lower nozzle temperature, but we suggest <strong>using the PrusaSlicer profiles that should work fine.</strong> It’s important to <strong>cool the PETG print</strong> - this helps to keep the model detailed and prevents stringing and oozing. But if you want the model to be as tough as possible, try to turn off the print fan. Higher filament temperature improves merging between layers which leads to better mechanical resistance. Otherwise, we recommend printing the first few layers with the print fan off to prevent deformation, then with the fan running at half its power.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong!</div>
<p><strong>Print surface preparation</strong></p>
<p>Make sure the print surface is clean, as described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">our dedicated article</a>. It is advisable to use one of the <strong>powder-coated print sheets. Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong! If you decide to use the smooth PEI sheet anyway, apply a glue stick on it before printing.</p>
<p><strong>Adding more perimeters for more solid parts</strong></p>
<p>If you want to print truly solid parts, <strong>try to increase the number of perimeters</strong> instead of adding more infill.</p>
<h3>Postprocessing</h3>
<p>PETG can be easily sanded both dry and wet.</p>
<p><strong>Dissolving PETG</strong></p>
<p><strong>Dissolving and smoothing PETG</strong> is possible only in a laboratory by skilled lab workers using <strong>dangerous chemicals</strong> (Dichloromethane).</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>MMU (Multi-Material Unit)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronics cover and other printer parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Ukulele</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Various mechanical parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronic parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Boxes and organizers</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


PETG

<p></p>
<p>A 'cold pull' is a technique that allows you to clean your printer’s nozzle and hotend from any material that may be stuck or burnt inside. You can also use it to clean your hotend during your usual maintenance routine.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">If you are using Nozzle X, <strong>do not</strong> use the cold-pull method, but only use cleaning filament.</div>
<p>The cold pull should be made if your nozzle is only partially clogged, and some filament is still being extruded. If the nozzle is completely clogged, please check the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">Clogged nozzle guide</a>.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Our testing has found that <strong>PLA works best for a cold pull,</strong> as other filaments do not retain the tip as PLA does and they will either tear or melt too much. However, there are filaments specifically made for cleaning hotends.</div>
<h3>Procedure</h3>
<ol>
<li>Go to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> (MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+) / <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle </em>(MK3.5/S), and set the temperature to 270 °C.</li>
<li>While waiting for the nozzle to reach the temperature, toggle the <strong>Filament autoload</strong> off in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Fil. sensor -&gt; F. autoload </em>(MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+) / <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Filament sensor </em>(MK3.5/S).</li>
<li>Still being in the <em>Menu</em>, go to <em>Settings</em> and choose <em>Disable steppers </em>(MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+). On MK3.5/S, navigate to <em>Control -&gt; Disable motors</em>. <br /><em>There is no message of the steppers being disabled, but you may hear an electrical hiss disappear when selected. <strong>If you can move the bed or extruder on its axis by hand, they are disabled.</strong></em></li>
<li>Open the Extruder Idler door. <em>Unscrew the screws circled below using a 2.5 mm Allen key. On the MMU2S and MMU3, unscrew the Bowden PTFE tube that connects the MMU unit with the extruder.</em></li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-600x600.jpg 600w" alt="" width="400" height="399" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-300x216.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-554x400.jpg 554w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-768x554.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-800x577.jpg 800w" alt="mmu" width="400" height="290" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<ol start="5">
<li>Once it has reached 270 °C, insert PLA filament manually into the extruder and push it in until it starts pouring out of the nozzle.</li>
<li>Stop heating by pressing <em>Cooldown</em> in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Preheat</em> (scroll all the way down), or by pressing the reset (X) button. Let the nozzle temperature drop to room temperature. To speed up the cooling you can engage the print fan at full speed, from<em> LCD menu -&gt; Settings/Control -&gt; Temperatures -&gt; Fan speed -&gt; [255].</em></li>
<li>Continue manually pushing the filament down until the temperature is too low for it to melt and come out (around 170 °C for PLA). <em>The nozzle has to be filled for the cold pull to be successful.</em></li>
<li>Pick away extruded material so there is nothing obstructing the pull later on.</li>
<li>After the nozzle cools down to the room temperature, go again to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings/Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> and set the temperature to 85 °C.</li>
<li><strong>As soon as the extruder reaches this temperature</strong>, grab the filament with pliers and pull it slowly but steadily out of the extruder. <em>The filament can break inside. Make sure to pull straight upwards, not sideways. Hold the extruder with your other hand.</em></li>
<li>Don't stop until the filament is completely pulled out from the extruder.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Results</h3>
<p>On the tip of the filament that has been pulled out, you may see remnants of the previous material(s) you have been using or some burnt dirt that has settled in the nozzle (left picture). You might want to repeat this procedure several times until the filament comes out clean.</p>
<p>The right picture shows what a clean cold-pulled filament should look like. It is important to have the imprint of the nozzle on it, this way you are sure the nozzle was filled and nothing was left inside. Also, the color is not mixed with the one you have been using previously or have dark marks on it.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-300x214.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-561x400.jpg 561w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-768x548.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-800x571.jpg 800w" alt="dirty cold pull" width="400" height="286" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-300x203.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-591x400.jpg 591w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-768x520.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-800x542.jpg 800w" alt="clean cold pull" width="693" height="469" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>After the procedure</h3>
<p>Secure the idler door by having <strong>the head of the idler screw</strong>, on the left of the extruder, <strong>about flush with the plastic parts, when the filament is not loaded.</strong> Then we recommend running the Z calibration as pushing on the extruder might have thrown it off balance. Also, turn the filament sensor/filament autoload back on.<br />On MK2.5/S and MK3/S/+, the Z-axis calibration is found in <em>LCD menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Calibrate Z</em>).<br />On MK3.5/S, the Z-axis calibration is found in <em>LCD menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Calibrations &amp; tests -&gt; 3. Z alignment calibration</em>.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007">this article</a> to learn about the most common causes leading to filament extrusion problems and how to prevent them from happening.</div>

Cold pull (MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S, MK3.5/S)

Prusa firmware-specific G-code commands

Original Prusa Enclosure assembly

Original Prusa MMU3 Assembly

Original Prusa Enclosure assembly (external display mounting)

Original Prusa MK4S with MMU3 (assembled)

Original Prusa MK3S+ MMU3 to MK4/MK3.9 MMU3 upgrade

Assembly manuals

Basic calibration

What to do when the printer reports an error message during calibration.

Calibration Error Messages

All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

Printer description

Printer features

FAQs and other useful information you might be interested in before or after making your purchase at shop.prusa3d.com

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

About your printer

3D models

Material guide

Printer maintenance

In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

Using the printer

Print Quality Troubleshooting

QR Error codes

Printer troubleshooting

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

Troubleshooting

About PrusaSlicer

Configuration and profiles

User interface

Top toolbar

Filament settings

Advanced features

Multi-material slicing

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

1. Introduction

1. Preparation

2. MMU3 Unit upgrade

2. MMU2S Disassembly (UPG)

2. Cassete Buffer Assembly

3. MMU2S Buffer Disassembly (UPG)

3. Spool Holder Assembly

3. Buffer upgrade

4. Idler Body Assembly

4. Preparing the assembly

5. Selector Assembly

5. Preflight check

6. Pulley Body Assembly

7. Cassette Buffer Assembly

8. Spool holder Assembly

9A. MK4/S, MK3.9/S Nextruder mod

9B. MK3S+ / MK3.5 Extruder mod (KIT)

9C. MK3S+ Extruder (UPG)

6A. Hinged Lid with MMU3

6B. Hinged lid with MMU2S

10A. MK4/S, MK3.9/S Setup and Calibration

10B. MK3S+ Setup and Calibration

10C. MK3.5 Setup and Calibration

11. First Flight

<p>The materials used for FFF 3D printing are mostly hygroscopic. This means that they readily attract water molecules from the environment they are in. When used for printing, a material that has gathered humidity might not behave as expected.</p>
<h3>Prevention</h3>
<p>Some filaments are more hygroscopic than others. When using a new material, make sure to research its properties and the best way to store it. It is best to avoid having to dry the filament if possible.</p>
<p>It is best to store your filaments in a closed space or box, with some desiccant material in it. If you have limited availability for this type of storage, prioritize storing filaments that are more hygroscopic. PLA, for example, doesn't change properties too much by uptaking humidity, whereas Polyamide is affected quite significantly.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">To prevent any issues with the highly hygroscopic materials (polyamid, polypropylen, PVA, BVOH, ...) it is recommended to either ensure they were stored in a dry environment or dry them before every print.</div>
<p>You can purchase a box with the specific purpose of keeping the filament dry, or <a href="https://blog.prusa3d.com/dryboxes-and-alternative-spool-holders-not-only-for-multimaterial-upgrade_30525/">make your own</a>.</p>
<p>Another popular solution to keep your filament dry is using vacuum bags for storage. There are bags specific for filaments, but you can use any that will fit a filament inside. Keep a desiccant in the bag when storing the filament.</p>
<h3>Multi-Tool Printing</h3>
<p>In printers like the Original Prusa XL, where filament is loaded directly into toolheads any humidity in the filament is critical. When printing with multiple toolheads, the unused tools remain heated (the idle temperature is set to 70°C by default). If the filament is wet, moisture is released into the tool, causing stringing in the toolhead. In such cases, even PLA can absorb enough moisture to create printing issues. This makes the XL more susceptible to filament moisture compared to single-tool printers, therefore we recommend drying the filament for printing on the Original Prusa XL.</p>
<h3>How to recognize if the filament has gathered humidity</h3>
<p>In case a material is affected by humidity, the general first signal will be a poor quality of the model surface.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some filaments are naturally more stringy than others. Make sure to compare different results from your prints, and check our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/stringing-and-oozing_1805">Stringing and oozing</a> guide.</div>
<p>In some cases, the high content of water in filament can cause low layer adhesion, blobs on the prints, and bubbling and smoke during extrusion.</p>
<p>Polyamide, PVA, and TPU (Flex) are filaments more commonly in need of drying than more popular filaments like PLA.</p>
<h3>Prusament black spool</h3>
<p>The black plastic sides of Prusament spools are firmly pressed into the cardboard cylinder. The plastic sides expand with rising temperature and cause the expansion of the cardboard center as well. When the temperature decreases plastic shrinks back to its original shape but the cardboard stays expanded which causes loosen spool. <strong>The spools can be heated up safely up to 45 ºC without this happening.</strong></p>
<p>Alternatively, it is possible to add a screw holding the two sides of the plastic together. The screw needs to have a thread of at least 65 mm. In the pictures, we use an M4x65 screw, tightened by a 3.5mm Allen key.</p>
<p>After heating up the spool to above 45 ºC, the screw will need to be in the spool until the end of its use, or else the spool will fall apart.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Prusament Grey spool</h3>
<p>The Prusament spools with grey plastic sides are also pressed to the cardboard center, but they are also glued. <strong>The glue added can withstand up to 90 ºC</strong>. So there is no need to add the screw to dry this spool if this temperature is not exceeded.</p>
<p>The PA11CF filament uses the grey Prusament spools. It is recommended to keep this filament in a dry box between each use, even if the filament will be used soon. In case that is not possible, dry the filament before each use.</p>
<h3>Drying methods</h3>
<h4>Temperatures</h4>
<p>Once we are sure that the spool will not fall apart, the following temperatures and times are recommended for the Prusament materials. It is important not to exceed these temperatures while drying the filament, or the filament will soften and stick together.</p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 128.8px;">
<thead>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<th style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">Material</th>
<th style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">Temperature</th>
<th style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">Time</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PLA</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">45 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">6 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PVB</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">45 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">8 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PETG</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">55 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">6 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">ASA</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">80 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">4 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">85 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">5 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PCCF</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">95 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">4 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; text-align: center;">PA11CF</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; text-align: center;">90 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; text-align: center;">6 hours</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Filament dryer</h4>
<p>There are specialized boxes that will not only keep filaments dry but also actively remove the moisture from filaments. Usually, you are also able to keep the filament in the box while printing.</p>
<p>Make sure to check the specifications of the box you intend to use to make sure that it matches the drying temperature of your filament.</p>
<h4>Oven</h4>
<p>Since most people have an oven at home, this seems the easiest way to dry filament. However, some things need to be noted for filament drying in a conventional oven.</p>
<p>Home ovens don't have a very precise temperature measurement. The fluctuations that do not affect your food might damage your filament, especially low-temperature ones like PLA. If using an oven, make sure to have an external thermometer to correct the temperature if necessary.</p>
<p>Another issue is that a lot of home ovens cannot be set at a temperature low enough to dry the filaments without damaging them. Even if left for less time than recommended, high temperatures will damage the filament.</p>
<h4>Food dehydrator</h4>
<p>A different method of drying is adapting a food dehydrator to fit a filament spool inside. The adaptation is usually achieved by taking off the trays between the layers and placing the filaments inside. These dehydrators usually have only low temperatures, so check the drying temperature of your filament before purchasing one.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">After drying, make sure to store the filament properly.</div>


Drying filament

<p>Each Original Prusa printer is shipped with a bundle of sample G-codes. These G-codes are tested and tailored specifically for your printer model and can be used either to see the printer capabilities or for troubleshooting.</p>
<p>Find your printer in the table and download the zip archive. Both the model geometry (.stl/.3mf) and the presliced version (.gcode) are included.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can find all the printable parts on our <a href="https://www.printables.com/@Prusa3D/collections/54487">Printables page</a>.</div>
<h2>Original Prusa FFF Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 594px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 18px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.1288%;">MK4S/MK3.9S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4S-MK39S-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4S-MK3.9S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">MK4/MK3.9</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4-MK39-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4-MK39-gcodes.zip">link</a>*</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.1288%;">MK3.5/S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;">TBA</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK3S+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK3S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">MK3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK2.5S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;">TBA</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK2.5</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;">TBA</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MINI+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">MINI</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">XL 1T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-1T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-1T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">XL 2T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-2T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-2T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">XL 5T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-5T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-5T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK3S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK3S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU2S &amp; MK3S/+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MMU2S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.1288%;">MMU2S &amp; MK2.5S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK25S_MMU2S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU2 &amp; MK3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3_MMU2-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.1288%;">MMU2 &amp; MK2.5</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK25_MMU2-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU1 &amp; MK2</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU1-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK2MMU-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><em>*The archive includes G-codes for both MK4 and MK3.9 printers. G-codes are sliced for Input Shaper and older non-Input Shaper firmware. To print the Input Shaper G-codes, please make sure your printer is running <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">firmware 5.0.0 or newer</a>.</em></p>
<h2>Original Prusa SLA Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 73px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px;">Original Prusa SL1S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 21px;">MSLA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px;">Original Prusa SL1</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 21px;">MSLA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Prusa Pro FFF Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 31px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 10px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 10px;">Prusa Pro HT90</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 10px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 10px;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 10px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/HT90-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>


Sample G-codes

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>ASA</strong> is a technical material <strong>suitable for outdoor use</strong>, due to its high UV light and temperature resistance. Unlike other materials soluble in more dangerous chemicals, <strong>ASA can be dissolved in acetone.</strong> The main disadvantage of this material is significant warping, which requires printing at higher ambient temperatures.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 260 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 105 °C for the first layer, 110 °C for the other layers.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed: Use the smooth or powder-coated PEI sheet with a glue stick.</strong></div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-asa/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">ASA</strong></a> (Acrylic Styrene Acrylonitrile) is a technical material that is considered a <strong>successor to ABS</strong>. Compared to ABS, <strong>ASA is more UV resistant, warps less, and doesn’t smell as much.</strong> ASA is a tough and resilient material that is, thanks to its UV and temperature resistance (up to 93 °C), <strong>suitable for outdoor use</strong> and for making technical parts. See for example our <strong>MK3S printer</strong> <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/cs/produkt/fan-shroud-bl-mk3s-mmu2s-mk2-5s/"><strong>fan shroud.</strong></a> Another great advantage of ASA is its <strong>solubility in acetone vapors</strong>, which can be used to make a smooth and glossy finish. This gives the model not only great looks but also different mechanical properties (see our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>).</p>
<p>The main disadvantage of ASA is <strong>significant warping</strong> caused by temperature differences between the model and its surroundings. Another disadvantage is that ASA releases potentially dangerous fumes during printing - this means you should keep your printer in a well-ventilated area. ASA can be easily sanded both wet and dry.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">ASA printing requires specific conditions for successful results. It’s important to run the prints in a well-ventilated room because the material releases fumes and substances that could pose a potential health risk. However, when ventilating the room, do not create a draft around the print – this will negatively impact the result.</div>
<p>You can find more details about how to print with ASA in <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/asa-prusament-is-here-learn-everything-about-the-successor-to-abs/">our in-depth article</a>.</p>
<p>And to compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High UV resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Significant warping</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High temperature-resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ An enclosure is necessary for printing large parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Detailed prints with no stringing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Potentially dangerous fumes (styrene)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Possibility of acetone smoothing and gluing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Prints at high temperatures</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Easy postprocessing (e.g. sanding, cutting, etc.)</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Partially hygroscopic (absorbs moisture)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High impact and wear resistance</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p><strong>ASA</strong> is suitable for outdoor use and for making technical parts.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Try to keep a high ambient temperature</strong></p>
<p>The bed should be heated to at least <strong>100 °C</strong>, and the printer should be inside an enclosure to keep a higher ambient temperature. If you don’t have an enclosure, there’s one simple alternative: in <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/"><strong>PrusaSlicer</a></strong>, set the skirt value as high as possible. This will create a wall around the object and keep the model slightly warmer, mitigating the warping. Keep in mind that printing a lot of ASA in an unventilated enclosure can cause the fan shroud and/or extruder plastic parts to deform over time. This may impact performance or cause issues.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can purchase the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/">Original Prusa Enclosure</a> in our e-shop.</p>
<p>It is also possible to <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/">make your own enclosure</a>.</p>
</div>
<p><strong>Printing with HIPS</strong></p>
<p><strong>ASA sticks very well to our print sheets</strong> (smooth and powder coated) but other print surfaces, like glass, might require a layer of acetone with dissolved ASA (or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/abs_2058">ABS</a>). If you print with <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-upgrade-kit-for-mk2-5-mk3s-org/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">MMU2S</strong></a>, you can use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/hips_167118"><strong>HIPS</strong></a> for printing supports - this material has similar print settings to ASA and can be easily dissolved in limonene.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Do not put acetone or ABS/ASA juice on the powder-coated sheet!</div>
<h3><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></h3>
<p>ASA is a pretty good material for postprocessing. Not only you can <strong>sand it wet and dry</strong> but you can also <strong>glue/weld it with acetone</strong> and <strong>smooth it with acetone vapors.</strong> Smoothed models have a glossy surface that looks like it’s treated with car lacquer or was injection molded. However, printed objects usually tend to lose detail and sharp edges with smoothing. You can find out more about chemical smoothing in <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>.</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 572px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-302x400.jpg 302w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-452x600.jpg 452w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-226x300.jpg 226w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-768x1019.jpg 768w" alt="" width="772" height="1024"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-800x451.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-768x433.jpg 768w" alt="" width="1024" height="577"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Mechanical parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Acetone smoothed prints</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 236px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-800x451.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-768x433.jpg 768w" alt="" width="1024" height="577"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 236px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-800x451.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-768x433.jpg 768w" alt="" width="1024" height="577"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Fan shroud (high-temperature resistant parts)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Outdoor (UV resistant) parts</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<p>Every FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) printer requires a First Layer Calibration, which <strong>sets the vertical "Z" distance between the nozzle and the print surface</strong>. Sometimes this value needs <strong>a slight adjustment</strong> and for this situation, there is an option called "<strong>Live adjust Z"</strong> <em>(as you are mostly tuning it live during the first layers of your print).</em> The reason for adjusting the distance is to <strong>provide better adhesion</strong> of the extruded filament.</p>
<h3><strong>How does it work?</strong></h3>
<p>It is important to know the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>the default value before the First layer calibration starts at zero (0.000) for all printers</li>
<li>to get <strong>closer to the print surface</strong>, turn the knob <strong>counter-clockwise</strong> and further <strong>increase the negative value</strong> (e.g. -0.500 =&gt; -0.600 =&gt; -0.700...)</li>
<li>to get <strong>further from the print surface</strong>, turn the knob <strong>clockwise</strong> and continue <strong>lowering the negative value</strong> (e.g. -0.700 =&gt; -0.600 =&gt; -0.500...)</li>
</ul>
<p>The values of the <em>Live adjust Z</em> are typically in the range of -1.500 to -0.200. Going above zero into the positive values is not possible, this indicates either an issue with the measuring sensor (M.I.N.D.A., P.I.N.D.A., SuperPINDA) or incorrect alignment.</p>
<p>The correctly assembled print head has <strong>the sensor always slightly above the nozzle</strong>, never at an equal level or below the nozzle (see the picture below). <em>The exact position can slightly vary, use the last chapter of the assembly manual of your printer to set the rough distance.</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XYZ-Calibration-MK3-and-MK3S-04.jpeg" alt="" width="718" height="350" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S extruder</em></p>
<h3>Live Adjust Z (while printing)</h3>
<p>The most common approach is to perform the <em>Live Adjust Z</em> during the print. Go to <em>LCD Menu -&gt;</em> <span style="color: #000000;" data-hd-color="#000000" data-hd-highlight=""><em>Live adjust Z.</em></span> This will show the <span style="color: #000000;" data-hd-color="#000000" data-hd-highlight=""><em>Live adjust Z</em></span> value you have set in the First layer calibration. From here you can adjust it by rotating the knob.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-600x194.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-800x258.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-300x97.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-768x248.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1.jpg 1600w" width="600" height="194" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S menu</em></p>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">PRO tip: shortcut from the main screen, while printing the first few layers press and hold the knob for a few seconds to access the <em>Live adjust Z</em> screen.</div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Adjusting Live adjust Z value while printing is permanent</strong>, not only for the ongoing print! The new value will also remain after you turn OFF the printer.</div>
</div>
<div>In the picture below you can see examples of different <em>Live adjust Z</em> values. If the nozzle is too high from the surface, the filament won't stick properly (left), if the nozzle is too close to the surface, the filament won't be able to "flow out" leading to a potential clog of the nozzle (right).</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg" alt="" width="1132" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Live Adjust Z (before the print)</h3>
<p>You can also change the value while the printer is at rest from <em>LCDMenu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Live adjust Z.</em> You will see the value set previously during the First layer calibration, and from here you can adjust it by rotating the knob.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-600x194.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-800x258.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-300x97.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-768x248.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2.jpg 1600w" width="600" height="194" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S menu</em></p>
<p><strong>The Live adjust Z should be used only to fine-tune the distance</strong>. For example, PETG and other high-temperature materials require to be squished in the surface slightly more as they tend to warp (lift up), compared to the PLA. If you have replaced the sensor or disassembled the print head (extruder) you should run the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> instead.</p>
<h3>Live Adjust Z (LoadCell)</h3>
<p>The <strong>Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S</strong>, and <strong>XL</strong> are equipped with a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/loadcell-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-xl_401253">LoadCell</a>, that will calibrate the first layer automatically. In case you would still like to fine-tune it, you can long-press the knob while the first layer is printed. The Live Adjust Z will not be saved for the next print in this case.</p>
<p>If you have constant issues with the first layer on a Prusa printer with the Loadcell, check the dedicated paragraphs from the general <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804#expansion-joints-mk4-mk39-mk35">first layer issues article</a>. </p>


Live adjust Z

<p>The Original Prusa FFF printers and upgrades use a screw(s) with a spring(s) to provide tension between the filament and the filament pulley. It is important to have this tension correct. If too loose the pulley will not be able to "grab" the filament, while if it is too tight the extruder motor can overexert itself and even start grinding the filament. With the exception of the MK2/S and MMU1, the correct tension remains the same across all of our printers. </p>
<div class="note-callout">When printing flexible filaments (TPU/TPE) you want the screw even looser than what is depicted here. Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-materials_2057">Flexible materials</a> for more information.</div>
<h3>MK4/S, MK3.9, XL</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa <strong>MK4/S</strong>, <strong>MK3.9/S</strong>, and <strong>XL</strong> have two idler screws, that are inserted into the Idler Nut. The Idler Nut keeps the Idler, the part that includes the two driven gears, in place. <strong>The tips of the screws must be aligned with the front surface of the Idler Nut</strong>. </p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 314px; border-style: none;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 296px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 296px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/82bb1f4ac9764ed357d23ad504dc4973.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Idler screw tension (review)" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 296px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/614e3711fa97945e08f5434dd90a0504.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Idler screw tension (review)" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK4S, MK3.9S</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK4, MK3.9</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/9f1a99bac9ee4251f461e2af97955e65_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/d71509c5da95a3bf5f081132ad6e2869.jpg" alt="" width="395" height="263" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK4 with MMU3-modified extruder</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa XL</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>On the Original Prusa XL, the dwarf-cover-door prevents access to adjusting the idler tension screws. </p>
<p>On single-head XL, it is possible to gain access by <span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>rotating the dwarf-cover-door</strong></span>. On dual-head and five-head XL, with the tool in the <strong>parked</strong> position, <span style="color: #b96ad9;"><strong>loosen the M3x12 bolt</strong></span> to remove the dwarf-cover-door. </p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/f8d3940f26dd204ea309f6bad12a697a_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Hotend Heater Overcurrent #17322" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/c9f81ea9acb8359339663218c7536d58_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Hotend Heater Overcurrent #17322" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>MK2.5S/MK3S/MK3S+/MK3.5/MK3.5S</h3>
<p><strong>The idler screw should be about flush to protruding 0.5 -1 mm with the plastic part</strong> when the filament is not loaded.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 314px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 296px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 296px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 296px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/ee967edc46e92f22_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/ee967edc46e92f22_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/ee967edc46e92f22_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/ee967edc46e92f22_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/ee967edc46e92f22_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/ee967edc46e92f22_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK3S</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK3S+</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>MMU3 unit</h3>
<p>Both Idler tension screws should be adjusted so that the top of the screw head is flush or slightly above the top surface of the idler-body, as a default setting.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.7895%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/5558cf0ae35a537a_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Idler screw tension" width="1600" height="1200" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.7895%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/13d08877b40afea6_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Idler screw tension" alt="" width="1600" height="1200" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>MMU2S unit</h3>
<p>The MMU2S requires a slightly different extruder but also has 1 idler-screw on the left side of the extruder, like the picture above. Roughly the same tension should be applied but it should only be adjusted as a part of the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/ir-filament-sensor-calibration-mmu3-mmu2s_2245">IR filament sensor calibration</a>.</p>
<p>In addition to the screw on the extruder, the MMU2S unit itself has two tension screws on top (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrows</span> left picture), applying pressure to the filament upon load/unload. <strong>These should be slightly below the surface of the plastic part (about 1 millimeter) when the filament is not loaded to the nozzle</strong> (right picture<strong>).</strong></p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.7895%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b5a4d8f48bb56027.jpg" width="500" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.7895%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/381b6af53da89771_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/381b6af53da89771_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/381b6af53da89771_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/381b6af53da89771_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/381b6af53da89771_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>MINI/MINI+</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MINI/+ has its idler screw on the bottom of the extruder, located on the Z-axis extrusion. This too should be about flush with the plastic, when the filament is not loaded.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><em><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0000da5fe874fa5a_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0000da5fe874fa5a_painted-600x400.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0000da5fe874fa5a_painted-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0000da5fe874fa5a_painted-300x200.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0000da5fe874fa5a_painted-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0000da5fe874fa5a_painted-1536x1023.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="266" loading="lazy" /></em></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><em><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlerscrw.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlerscrw-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlerscrw-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlerscrw-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlerscrw-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlerscrw-1536x1024.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>MK3/MK2.5</h3>
<p>This extruder design has two idler screws. <strong>The head of the screw should be about flush to sticking out 1 - 1.5 mm when a filament is loaded.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>MK2S</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MK2S had a different extruder design. It has two screws, where the length of the springs <strong>should be circa 13 mm when tightened</strong>. After some use, it is ok to tighten them a little bit more, but the two screws must be equal.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e45b5f6259af9be1_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e45b5f6259af9be1_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e45b5f6259af9be1_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e45b5f6259af9be1_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e45b5f6259af9be1_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e45b5f6259af9be1_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>

Idler screw tension

<p>If you have any questions about 3D printing in general, about your order, shipping, calibration, or troubleshooting of your printer, don't hesitate to contact us!</p>
<div class="note-callout">Printers that have non-supported modifications might not be able to have their issues diagnosed by our technical support.</div>
<h3>How to contact us</h3>
<p>Make sure you have your order number, invoice, or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/original-prusa-serial-number_134171">serial number</a> before contacting Customer support. In case you need technical support, make sure you have <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/photo-and-video-documentation_112155">Photo and video documentation</a> of the issue.</p>
<h4>E-mail</h4>
<p>Our contact e-mail is <a href="mailto:info@prusa3d.com">info@prusa3d.com</a>. Through e-mail, our Support is available in <strong>English, Czech, Spanish, French, German, Italian, and Polish</strong>. The reply time is up to three business days.</p>
<h4>LiveChat</h4>
<p>We provide full 24/7 <strong>English </strong>customer support via live chat, which you can find on the bottom right of the e-shop and the Knowledgebase. <strong>Czech </strong>support is available during business hours.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can contact us even if your Original Prusa Printer is out of warranty or purchased from a third party, we'll be happy to help!</div>
<h3><strong>We can help you out with</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li>Ordering any of our products through our online store.</li>
<li>Pre-sale questions and learning more about our products.</li>
<li>Checking on your pending order.</li>
<li>Assembly and calibration of your newly purchased printer.</li>
<li>Solving printing problems and queries.</li>
</ul>
<h3><strong>Knowledge base</strong></h3>
<p>That is where you are right now! In the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com">Prusa Knowledge Base</a>, you can find answers to the same questions you may ask on chat and e-mail and much more!</p>
<p>You can either search for topics using the <strong>search field</strong>, and read articles relevant to your <strong>printer model</strong> by selecting them on the main page, or you can browse through our seven <strong>main categories:<br /></strong></p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/assembly-manuals_272">Assembly manuals</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/about-your-printer_201">About your printer</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/calibration_199">Calibration</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/using-the-printer_202">Using the printer</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/troubleshooting_194">Troubleshooting</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/general-info_1910">PrusaSlicer</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/3rd-party-accessories-other-projects_246">3rd party accessories</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/materials">Extensive Material guides</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Handbook and Assembly manuals</h4>
<p>Assembly and printing documentation is available in Czech, English, German, French, Spanish, Italian, and Polish.</p>
<p>To download the handbook, visit <a href="http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">the Downloads page</a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/printer-handbooks_125045">its dedicated Knowledgebase article</a>. Assembly manuals you will find <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/assembly-manuals_272">right here</a> in this Knowledge Base. These sections are updated regularly, so it's always better to use the online version of the documentation.</p>
<h3><strong>Prusa 3D </strong></h3>
<p><a href="https://prusa3d.com">https://prusa3d.com</a> is our company website, where you can find an overview of everything we do. It also contains the following sections:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">Our Eshop</a>, where you can order printers, filament, and spare parts.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/">Printable parts</a>, where you can find the latest STL models for our 3D printers. </li>
<li><a href="https://www.printables.com/social/16-prusa-research/collections">Sample objects</a>, where you can find some tested and approved models to print.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">Drivers and manuals</a>, where you can find the latest drivers, manuals, and firmware versions. </li>
</ul>
<h3><strong>Printables.com</strong></h3>
<p><a href="Printables.com">Printables.com</a> is our community platform for everything 3D printer-related. We have prepared a unique concept of a community website and we have tried to make it simple and unified all aspects of the Prusa Research community under a single login. </p>
<p><strong>Here you will find:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong><a href="https://www.printables.com/model">Our model depository and marketplace</a></strong> with over 50,000 prints and thousands of users who want to share their models, printing services, and skills. Here you will find not only STL files but also G-Codes for the Original Prusa printers, which you can print instantly and without effort. We check every uploaded file for potentially harmful commands (crashing nozzle to bed, overheating, etc…).</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://blog.prusa3d.com/">'Blog'</a></strong> - company blog where our editors publish articles about the development of our printers, the latest information about Prusa Research, and informative texts about our 3D printers or 3D printing in general.</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://forum.prusa3d.com/">'Forum'</a></strong> - Here you will find the main core of our community. Join discussions and share your experiences with other makers and Original Prusa owners around the world.</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://world.prusa3d.com/">'World'</a></strong> - This is a map of all Prusa printers out in the wild. You can place your own marker on the map – either as a general (approximate) location or an exact one – e.g. if you are a business. You can choose from three options: if you want to help out other folks, print on demand, or just hang out.</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://www.printables.com/group/discover">'Groups'</a></strong> is a way to coordinate with other makers in your specific area. This concept grew exponentially when the 2020 pandemic hit, and makers had a way to coordinate their efforts in printing PPE for their local hospitals and general practitioners. That is of course only the tip of the iceberg so for more information on Groups, please have a look at our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-coordinate-not-only-producing-of-protective-face-shields-via-prusaprinters-groups_32794/">Blog article on the subject</a>.</li>
</ul>
<p>If you haven’t heard about Pritables before, don’t forget to check out <a href="https://blog.prusa3d.com/prusaprinters-org-is-now-printables-com-ultimate-database-of-3d-models-for-everyone_66880//">our article</a> and <a href="https://youtu.be/v9CjXtnimFE">Youtube video</a>. <strong>If you haven’t registered yet, I hope you’ll consider it now – after all, it’s the users who keep the community alive.</strong></p>
<h3><strong>Our social media</strong></h3>
<p>Our official social media accounts and channels are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Facebook: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/PrusaResearch/">Prusa Research 3D printers</a></li>
<li>Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/Prusa3D">Prusa3D by Josef Prusa</a></li>
<li>Instagram: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/josefprusa/">josefprusa</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/prusament/">Prusament</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h3><strong>Forum</strong></h3>
<p>We strongly suggest visiting our official forum at <a href="forum.prusa3d.com">forum.prusa3d.com</a>, where you can find plenty of tips and inspiration, as well as up-to-date information about the Original Prusa printers and upgrades. </p>
<div class="note-callout">To create an account on our forum, you need to go to the online store first and create an account there. A forum account with the same login credentials will be automatically created. However, any changes made in any of the two profiles won't be reflected in the other one. Please keep that in mind while changing your profile details, such as the password. </div>
<h3>Unofficial support channels</h3>
<p>There are plenty of unofficial places where you can find great tips regarding 3D printing. The community is vast and growing every day, and the atmosphere is usually very friendly and enthusiastic.</p>
<p>You can join one of our groups on Facebook:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/Prusai3users/">Original Josef Prusa i3/MK2/S/3 Owners</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/prusacommunityresin/">Prusa Community Forum - Official Prusa SL1 Group</a></li>
<li>There are other groups covering a wide range of languages.</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout">Keep in mind that we are not responsible for any information found outside of our official support channels.</div>


Customer support

<h3>Orders within the EU</h3>
<p>As of 1 July 2021, updated EU VAT rules for business-to-consumer (B2C) transactions will apply. We, therefore, charge <strong>Value Added Tax (VAT), of the Standard rate, set by the country/state the product is to be shipped.</strong></p>
<div class="tip-callout">For more information on EU VAT rules, please see <a href="https://ec.europa.eu/taxation_customs/business/vat/vat-e-commerce_en/">the official documentation</a>.<br />You can also find the tax rates of each EU country <a href="https://europa.eu/youreurope/business/taxation/vat/vat-rules-rates/index_en.htm#shortcut-8">listed here</a>.</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/total-with-tax.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/total-with-tax-300x50.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/total-with-tax.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="66" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>You will see the price with and without the VAT amount (tax) during the checkout</em></p>
<h4>Business-to-business (B2B)</h4>
<p>You can receive the invoice without VAT if you have a valid EU VAT number. Check the option "I'm shopping as a company", and fill in the <strong>Identification number</strong> and the <strong>EU VAT number</strong>. The validity of the VAT number is always checked by the <a href="http://ec.europa.eu/taxation_customs/vies/">VIES VAT number validation engine</a>.</p>
<p>Make sure to fill in all the fields correctly and confirm that the total amount in the order dues not have the VAT. If you believe that all information has been entered correctly and the system still shows an error, please check that <a href="http://ec.europa.eu/taxation_customs/vies/">VIES VAT number validation system</a> is online or contact our <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/">LiveChat</a> for help.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/eshop-vat.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/eshop-vat-600x177.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/eshop-vat-300x89.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/eshop-vat-768x227.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/eshop-vat.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="148" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>The <strong>VAT number must be written in the format shown in the picture above</strong>, otherwise, it will not be taken into account by the system.</em></p>
<h4>Business-to-business (B2B) VAT refund</h4>
<p>If the order is paid with the VAT included, it is not possible to refund just the taxes from the order through the e-shop. If the order has not been shipped you can cancel the order before it is shipped. You will receive a full refund, and be able to make a new order without the taxes added. If the order has already been shipped, it is possible to request a refund in your country:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://ec.europa.eu/taxation_customs/vat-refunds_en">Taxation and Customs Union</a></li>
<li><a href="https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/ALL/?uri=CELEX:32008L0009&amp;qid=1436536731847">Document information</a></li>
</ul>
<h3>Orders outside the EU</h3>
<div class="note-callout">Due to the EU - UK Trade and Cooperation Agreement (TCA), no customs duties will be applied to orders shipped to the United Kingdom (UK) from the Czech Republic. However, orders with a total value of over 135 GBP will have to pay VAT (tax) upon entry to the UK. For details please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/orders-to-the-uk_205772">Orders to the UK</a>.</div>
<p>Importing a 3D printer from an EU country to a non-EU country involves multiple costs beyond the purchase price. When placing an order, the price paid does not include fees other than the product and shipping. The fees will be charged when the product reaches customs in your country. It is essential to factor in shipping, customs duties, customs broker, taxes, insurance, and additional fees to estimate the total cost accurately. These costs vary by destination country, HS code, and shipping method.</p>
<p>Different products have different <strong>HS (Harmonized System) codes</strong>. They are designed to be consistent internationally, with the first six digits standardized by the World Customs Organization (WCO). These six digits are used universally to classify goods and determine tariff rates, ensuring that all countries recognize the product in the same way. However, beyond these six digits, countries can extend the codes to eight or ten digits to meet their specific needs.</p>
<p>The customs clearance process has to be done on the customer's side, with the help of the customs broker they get from their carrier (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Incoterms#DAP_%E2%80%93_Delivered_At_Place_(named_place_of_destination)">DAP incoterms</a>).</p>
<h4>HS codes</h4>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 231px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<th style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px;">Product Type</th>
<th style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px;">HS code</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">All printers</td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">84852000</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">Spare parts (includes MMU and CW1/S)</td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">84859090</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">Filaments</td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">39169090</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">Resins</td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">39073000</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">Fire suppression system</td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">8424100090</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">Printed book, brochures, leaflets</td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">4901990000</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">T-shirts (merch)</td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">6109100010</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">Hoodies (merch)</td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">6110209900</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">Beanies (merch)</td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">6505009090</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">Snapbacks (merch)</td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px; text-align: center;">6505003000</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Where to calculate import duty and tax</h4>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<th style="width: 66.8712%; height: 21px;">Country</th>
<th style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px;">0 fee limit</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 42px;">
<td style="width: 66.8712%; text-align: center; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.cbp.gov/">USA (USD)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.1288%; text-align: center; height: 21px;">800</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 42px;">
<td style="width: 66.8712%; text-align: center; height: 42px;"><a href="https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/travel-voyage/dte-acl/est-cal-eng.html">Canada (CAD)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.1288%; text-align: center; height: 42px;">20</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 42px;">
<td style="width: 66.8712%; text-align: center; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.bazg.admin.ch/bazg/en/home/services/services-companies/services-firmen_einfuhr-ausfuhr-durchfuhr/zolltarif-tares.html">Switzerland (CHF)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.1288%; text-align: center; height: 21px;">0</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 42px;">
<td style="width: 66.8712%; text-align: center; height: 21px;"><a href="https://gstcalculator.com.au/">Australia (AUD)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.1288%; text-align: center; height: 21px;">1000</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 42px;">
<td style="width: 66.8712%; text-align: center; height: 42px;"><a href="https://www.toll.no/no/verktoy/importkalkulator/">Norway (NOK)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.1288%; text-align: center; height: 42px;">6000</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 42px;">
<td style="width: 66.8712%; text-align: center; height: 42px;"><a href="https://www.customs.go.kr/english/ad/ct/CustomsTariffList.do?mi=8037">South Korea</a> (USD)</td>
<td style="width: 33.1288%; text-align: center; height: 42px;">150</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 42px;">
<td style="width: 66.8712%; text-align: center; height: 63px;"><a href="https://shaarolami-query.customs.mof.gov.il/CustomspilotWeb/PersonalImportTax">Israel</a> (USD)</td>
<td style="width: 33.1288%; text-align: center; height: 63px;">75</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 42px;">
<td style="width: 66.8712%; text-align: center; height: 42px;"><a href="https://www.customs.govt.nz/personal/duty-and-gst/whats-my-duty-estimator/">New Zealand (NZD)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.1288%; text-align: center; height: 42px;">1000</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 42px;">
<td style="width: 66.8712%; text-align: center; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.customs.gov.sg/">Singapore (SGD)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.1288%; text-align: center; height: 21px;">400</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 42px;">
<td style="width: 66.8712%; text-align: center; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.customs.go.th/">Thailand (THB)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.1288%; text-align: center; height: 21px;">1500 (~45 USD)</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 42px;">
<td style="width: 66.8712%; text-align: center; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.customs.go.jp/">Japan (JPY)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.1288%; text-align: center; height: 21px;">10000</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


VAT (Value Added Tax) & Customs fees

<p>As soon as the melted plastic leaves the nozzle, it's no longer under the precise control of the extrusion system. There are two problems to consider:</p>
<ol>
<li>Printing must always be done on an <strong>already solidified layer</strong>, otherwise, the previously extruded plastic will be moved around and distorted by the new layer</li>
<li>When printing <strong>overhangs</strong> or <strong>bridges</strong>, it's important to freeze and solidify the plastic in place as soon as possible. Otherwise, the filament will sag down.</li>
</ol>
<p>Most 3D printers come with a dedicated <strong>print fan</strong>. By blasting ambient air at the extruded filament, the cooling can be dramatically improved. However, with some materials, this could make things actually worse and cause warping or layer separation. PrusaSlicer lets you adjust the cooling settings for each filament.</p>
<h4>Keep fan always on</h4>
<p>The print fan will always maintain at least a minimum speed. <strong>This setting is typically on</strong> for most materials with the exception of ABS, ASA, PC, and some flexibles.</p>
<h4>Enable auto cooling</h4>
<p>When enabled, the cooling fan and print speed will change during the print based on the settings below. A text description below will <strong>update with every change of any cooling setting</strong> and will explain in detail the resulting cooling behavior.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/c3e0f8af741ce8d43517b269666d6bb5.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Cooling REVIEW" alt="" width="700" height="505" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>When disabled, the print fan will run at a fixed speed the whole time defined by <strong>Fan speed - Min</strong> with the exception of bridges, which can still be defined by <strong>Bridges fan speed</strong>.</p>
<h3>Fan settings</h3>
<h4>Fan speed</h4>
<p>You can set <strong>Min</strong> and <strong>Max</strong> fan speed as a percentage of the fan's max RPM. </p>
<p>The <strong>Max</strong> value will be used when the layer print time is below the <strong>Slow down if layer print time is below</strong> value.</p>
<p>The <strong>Min</strong> value will be used when the layer print time is longer than <strong>Enable fan if layer print time is below</strong> value.</p>
<p>If the layer print time is between these two values, the fan speed will run <strong>proportionally</strong> at a speed between the <strong>Min</strong> and <strong>Max</strong> value.</p>
<p>This may seem a bit confusing, but you can use the live-updating text description above Fan settings, which will hopefully make everything clear. Try changing the values and see how the description changes.</p>
<h4>Bridges fan speed</h4>
<p>Overrides the fan speed with set value when printing <strong>bridges and overhangs</strong>. Typically you'll set this to a higher value compared to normal printing.</p>
<h4>Disable fan for the first X layers</h4>
<p>Cooling the very first layer is usually <strong>not necessary</strong>, as it's being laid on a flat surface. With many filaments, you may even want to skip cooling for a few more first layers (typically between 1-5) to prevent warping and detaching the print from the print bed, which would inevitably lead to a ruined print.</p>
<h3>Dynamic fan speeds</h3>
<p>The setting enables and controls dynamic, variable fan speed in function of the overlap percentage. </p>
<p>The overlap percentage represents the overlap of extrusion with the previous layer. A 100% overlap is a full overlap (no overhang), while a 0% overlap represents a full overhang (floating extrusion, bridge). </p>
<p>The input fan speed values represent the percentage of the fan's max RPM. </p>
<p>Fan speeds for overhang sizes in between are calculated via linear interpolation. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/92654b09a66c9d2587f65cae1b76f073.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Cooling REVIEW" alt="" width="700" height="494" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Cooling thresholds</h3>
<h4>Enable fan if layer print time is below</h4>
<p>If the layer print time is estimated below this number of seconds, the print fan will be enabled and its speed will be calculated by interpolating between the Min and Max speed.</p>
<h4>Slow down if layer print time is below</h4>
<p>If the layer print time is estimated below this number of seconds, the print move speed will be slowed down to extend the duration to this value. The slowing is done by scaling the print speeds, so some moves will still be faster than others.</p>
<h4>Min print speed</h4>
<p>The minimum speed that PrusaSlicer will scale the speeds down to. Printing at extremely low speeds for extended periods of time could lead to problems such as heat creep.</p>
<p>Keep in mind that by raising this value too high, you may partially invalidate the minimum layer time set by <strong>Slow down if layer print time is below</strong>. Because even when printing at this minimum speed, the layer time might be shorter than the set value.</p>


Cooling

<p>In case there is a clog in your hotend, the filament might grind against the Bondtech-gears and be damaged enough so it can't be unloaded. It might snap right above the PTFE-tube when you try to pull it out by hand. In this case, the filament will need to be removed manually.</p>
<h3>Idler door open</h3>
<p>Open the idler door by removing the spring-loaded tension-screw(s), on the left side of the extruder.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 348px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 331px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 331px;"><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-800x600.jpg 800w" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center" /></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 331px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3-534x400.jpg 534w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><strong>MK3S, MK3S+, MK3.5/S extruder (single idler screw)</strong></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><strong>MK3 extruder (two idler screws)</strong></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div> </div>
<h4>MMU2S/MMU3 idler door</h4>
<div>On the MMU, due to the "chimney" (IR-sensor-holder-mmu2s), you must remove the whole idler door by unscrewing the hinge- screw (red arrow) on the back. </div>
<div> </div>
<div><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="401" height="301" loading="lazy" /></div>
<h3>Where did it break?</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 311px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 294px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 294px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 294px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="399" height="299" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><strong>Use Method 1</strong></td>
<td style="width: 50%; text-align: center; height: 17px;"><strong>Use Method 2</strong></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>If the filament snapped right at the edge of the PTFE you should start with Method number 1, where you try to push the filament through the hotend. If there is 0.5-1cm sticking out of the filament, reaching the Bondtech filament-pulley starts with Method number 2, pulling it out with pliers.</p>
<h3>Setup</h3>
<ol>
<li>Go to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> and set the temperature to 280º C. Wait for 3-5 minutes with the hotend at this temperature.</li>
<li>In the LCD menu in <em>Settings,</em> select <em>Disable steppers</em>.</li>
<li>Go to the  <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; F. Autoload,</em> so A<em>utoload</em> will not interfere.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">From now on the hotend will be hot! Avoid touching the lower part of the extruder (heaterblock + nozzle)!</div>
<h3>Method 1: Pushing the filament through the hotend</h3>
<p>Using another piece of filament, a thin (1-1,5 mm) Allen-wrench or same diameter wire, at least 4.5 cm long for the MK3(s) and 6 cm long for the MMU2s, you are often able to simply push it through.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="574" height="431" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<ol>
<li>Feed in from the top of the extruder your tool of choice, down past the Bondtech-gear, and on top of the stuck filament.</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">If you are able to push the stuck filament down the PTFE-tube with an Allen-wrench, switch to using filament after about 1-2 cm. Some Allen-wrenches may only be long enough to get it started.</div>
<ol start="2">
<li>In case the filament starts being extruded from the bottom, Keep pushing the filament to clear the nozzle and see the color change.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Method 2: Pull out filament with pliers</h3>
<p>While hotend is heated to 280° C, firmly grab the filament with the needle-nose pliers that came with the printer. Slowly drag/feed the filament upwards, bit by bit, through the top of the extruder body, until it is completely removed from the PTFE-tube.</p>
<p>The filament can get stuck on geometry on the path up through where it is fed. It is also possible to pull it out of the idler door.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="627" height="470" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<div class="tip-callout">After removing the filament, do a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3-s-mk2-5-s-mk3-5-s_2075">Cold pull (MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S, MK3.5/S)</a> to ensure you have fully cleared the clog.</div>
<h3>Nope, it is still stuck</h3>
<p>If none of these methods work, it means that the tip is not touching the part of the hotend that is heated and is stuck in the PTFE-tube. In this case, you must extract the PTFE-tube. Follow the guide linked below to resolve it.</p>
<div class="note-callout">You will probably need to heat the hotend to extract the PTFE-tube with the stuck filament.</div>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-ptfe-tube-mk3-mk2-5_17360">How to replace a PTFE tube (MK3/MK2.5)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-ptfe-tube-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_21664">How to replace a hotend PTFE tube (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S)</a></li>
</ul>


Removing filament from extruder manually

<p>The Original Prusa FDM printers have a sensor to detect distance from the print surface. During a calibration, and before each print, the sensor will go through a number of points, in a grid pattern, spread across the build-plate (whether it is a powder-coated or smooth PEI sheet does not matter), and measures the distance to the sheet. These points are interpolated and used to create a virtual mesh of the bed. During printing, if the bed is slightly warped, the sensor will still precisely follow the surface according to its measured mesh</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-300x170.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-600x341.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-768x436.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-800x455.jpg 800w" width="614" height="348" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Original Prusa MK2/S, MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+</h3>
<p>These printer models up to MK3S are equipped with a PINDA sensor, while the MK3S+ and MK3.5/S are equipped with a SuperPINDA sensor.</p>
<p>The StallGuard for the Z-axis is active during the mesh bed leveling. In case the nozzle crashes into the bed before the PINDA/SuperPINDA sensor triggers, the calibration process is interrupted and the user is asked to check the nozzle for any kind of debris.</p>
<h4>Mesh bed leveling settings</h4>
<div class="note-callout">This feature is available starting from firmware 3.7.0.</div>
<p>The Mesh bed leveling settings can be found within <em>Settings - Mesh bed Leveling</em>, on the LCD menu. There you have the following options:</p>
<ul>
<li>Mesh (3x3 - 7x7)</li>
<li>Z-probe nr. (1 - 3 - 5)</li>
<li>Magnet comp. (ON / OFF)</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Mesh:</strong> The default grid density is 3x3 (9 points). However, if you still experience uneven first layer adhesion, you can increase the density in Settings - Mesh bed leveling - Mesh to 7x7 (49 points).</p>
<p><strong>Z-probe nr.:</strong> Changing the Z-sensor nr. you change how many times will each point be measured. We suggest either 3 or 5 measurements per point since the final value is calculated as an average value. Changing these settings affects how long will the Mesh bed leveling procedure takes to complete.</p>
<p><strong>Magnet comp.:</strong> With 7x7 Mesh bed leveling, you can choose whether or not to use Magnets compensation. 3 of the 49 points are so close to magnets, that the reading can be off by as much as 80μm (microns). Magnet compensation ignores readings from these 3 points and calculates them from the surrounding points. <strong>We suggest leaving this function on.</strong></p>
<h4>Enforcing the Z-calibration</h4>
<p>If the mesh bed leveling is interrupted during the procedure, before a print, a message will appear on the screen stating "Enforcing the Z-calibration" and the printer will re-home and run through the procedure again. This can occur if there is debris on the nozzle pushing the bed down when probing, or if you touch and press the bed while it is probing. This will bring the deviance above a certain threshold and it will simply make another attempt to run the Mesh Bed Leveling. This is to avoid starting it from the menu again if the problem was simply an accident. If the problem remains, it will repeat this procedure three times before canceling the print.</p>
<h4>Troubleshooting</h4>
<p>Please see our dedicated article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/p-i-n-d-a-superpinda-sensor-testing_2091">P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA Sensor testing</a> to resolve any issue.</p>
<h3>Original Prusa MINI/+</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MINI is equipped with a M.I.N.D.A. sensor, while the Original Prusa MINI+ is equipped with a SuperPINDA sensor. The grid density is 4x4. </p>
<h4>Troubleshooting</h4>
<p>Please see our dedicated article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/m-i-n-d-a-superpinda-sensor-testing-mini-mini_134021">M.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor testing (MINI/MINI+)</a> to resolve any issue.</p>
<h3>Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, XL</h3>
<p>The <strong>Original Prusa MK4/S</strong>, <strong>MK3.9/S</strong>, and <strong>XL </strong>are equipped with a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/loadcell-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-xl_401253">LoadCell</a>, to detect that the nozzle is close enough to the steel sheet for printing, and to avoid damage that would be caused by the nozzle digging into the steel sheet. </p>
<p>Before a print, the nozzle will check the distance to the print sheet in several places to create a virtual height map of the surface. The points are measured within the area of the chosen print. </p>


Mesh bed leveling

<h3>How do I get the kit or assembled printer owner discount?</h3>
<p>As stated on our website: <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com">Prusa3D</a>, if you purchase an assembled MK3S+ printer, we offer a 10% discount on your upcoming five subsequent purchases of an <strong>assembled printer of the same type</strong> and on 30 spools of selected filaments per year <strong>(not applicable to the</strong> <strong>MK4</strong>). If you choose to purchase your printer as a kit, we offer a 5% discount on 30 spools of selected filaments per year. In both cases, the discount is automatically activated in your account as soon as your first kit or printer is shipped.</p>
<h3>Can I have my printer signed by Jo?</h3>
<p>Yes, Josef can sign the machined aluminum card, which can then be attached to the printer in your preferred location, but please know it can delay the expedition for over a month. He is very busy these days. If it's OK with you, you can ask for the signature in an email or via Live Chat.<img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/bab6f918412df530b7522cb2db60b3bf.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions" alt="" width="421" height="255" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>What are the printer dimensions?</h3>
<p>The dimensions are (W×L×H or X×Y×Z):</p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>MK4/S, MK3.9</strong> printer measures 500×550×400 mm | 19.6×21.6×15.7 in, and 7 kg, without filament spool. </li>
<li>MK4 print volume: 250×210×220 mm | 9.84×8.2×8.6 in.</li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>MK3/S/+, MK3.5/S</strong> printer measures 500×550×400 mm | 19.6×21.6×15.7 in, and 7 kg, without filament spool.</li>
<li>MK3/S/+, MK3.5 print volume: 250×210×210 mm | 9.84×8.2×8.2 in.</li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>XL </strong>printer measures 580×700×900 mm | 22.83 ×27.56 × 35.43 in, and has a maximum weight of 25.3 kg. The width includes the Wi-Fi antenna and filament side sensor, and the height includes the cables to the extruder(s). </li>
<li>The assembled <strong>XL</strong> printer measurements with side spool holders and top enclosure cover (separate future add-on) are 800×800×900 mm | 31.49×31.49×35.43 in.</li>
<li>XL print volume: 360×360×360 mm | 14.17×14.17×14.17 in.</li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>MINI/+</strong> printer measures 320×330×380 mm | 12.6×13×15 in, and 5 kg.</li>
<li>MINI/+ print volume: 180×180×180 mm | 7×7×7 in.</li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>SL1S</strong> printer measures 225x237x400 mm | 8.8×9.3×15.7 in, and 11 kg.</li>
<li>SL1S print area: 127×80×150 mm | 5.0×3.1×5.9 in.</li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>SL1</strong> printer measures 220×240×415 mm | 8.7×9.45×16.3 in, and 11 kg.</li>
<li>SL1 print area: 120×68×150 mm | 4.7×2.6×5.9 in.</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that our MK-series and MINI/+ printers need some more space when in use. Especially in front of and behind them, as the heatbed is moving outside their footprint. More specific info is available specifically for your printer version, on its dedicated <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/printer-handbooks_125045">handbook</a>. </div>
<div class="tip-callout">If you are building an enclosure, you can add even more space in every direction, for better access and manipulation. For the MMU, add 150 mm / 6 in, in height, and think about <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/spool-placement_112035">where to put the 5 spools</a> (behind the printer or above).</div>
<h3>What is the printing precision/tolerance of the Original Prusa?</h3>
<p>According to our testing, the precision tolerance of a well-assembled Original Prusa printer is 0,1 mm on the Z-axis and 0,3 mm on X and Y. It can be as little as 0,05 mm on all axes, after making additional calibrations such as the Extrusion multiplier calibration and Extruder linearity correction.</p>
<p>However, please note that the material is also relevant: it can shrink while cooling down, and low-quality filaments with uneven diameters will cause uneven extrusion. The optimization of the model for 3D printing (overhangs, etc.) is also important. Our printers are tested even for the 0.25 mm nozzle, which is more precise compared to the standard/stock nozzle with a 0.4 mm diameter. </p>
<div class="tip-callout"><a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/troubleshooting/dimension-errors">This article</a> studies the accuracy of FDM printing in more detail.</div>
<h3>What tools do I need when working with my Original Prusa?</h3>
<p>All necessary tools (pliers, screwdriver, hex keys, wrenches…) are included in the package. If you are wondering what else you could need, here is a list of some nice-to-have things:</p>
<ul>
<li>3.5'' side-cutter/flush-cutter pliers</li>
<li>White permanent marker</li>
<li>Compressed air</li>
<li>A big bottle of IPA 91% to clean the sheet</li>
<li>Acetone (only with the smooth sheet)</li>
</ul>
<h3>What is the life expectancy of the printer?</h3>
<p>According to our testing, the average maintenance interval of our printers is around 800 print hours. When it needs to be serviced, most frequently, it’s the nozzle that needs to be changed, and then it can continue printing for many hundreds of hours more.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The ideal air temperature is from 20 - 30 °C (68 - 86 °F) and the ideal air humidity is 25 %.</div>
<h3>What is the power consumption of a PRUSA printer?</h3>
<p>The average power consumption that we have measured on an MK-series printer, at 26 °C (room temperature), is 80 W when printing generic PLA and 120 W when printing generic ABS.</p>


FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3><strong>Basic info</strong></h3>
<div><strong>PLA</strong> is one of the <strong>easiest materials to print.</strong> It is inexpensive and suitable (not only) for beginners. It’s usually used for printing detailed models, figures, and quick prototypes that don’t require high mechanical, chemical, or temperature resistance.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 215 °C for the first layer, 210 °C for other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 60 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Smooth PEI sheet will provide the best adhesion.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-pla/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PLA</strong></a> (Polylactic acid) is a plant-based polyester. <strong>PLA does not require a heated bed</strong>, can be printed fast and with low temperatures (melting point is somewhere around 175 °C). With PLA you can print both small, detailed models and large objects filling almost the entire print volume. Unlike some other filaments, <strong>PLA is not prone to significant warping</strong>. It is good for quick prototyping and creation of nice, low-cost models: concepts, prototypes, simple toys, jewelry, statues, etc. It is not suitable for technical and outdoor use. It doesn’t resist high temperatures (it gets soft and deform at temperatures over 60 °C), degrades under UV light and its mechanical resistance is also inferior - it breaks by the layers or into shards upon impact. Layer adhesion is weaker compared to other materials. Sanding PLA is possible with sandpaper but needs water cooling (wet sanding).</p>
<p>Various sources claim that <strong>PLA is biologically degradable</strong>. The material is made from corn, sugar cane, or sugar beet and indeed can be decomposed, but only in specialized composting facilities where temperatures exceed 80 °C. It is definitely <strong>not a good idea</strong> to throw the <strong>PLA</strong> waste into your garden compost - the material will not disintegrate, plus you will contaminate the soil with plastic microparticles.</p>
<p>Although the <strong>PLA</strong> material itself is <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament material) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layers/grooves that can support bacterial growth. If you still want 3D printed dishes or food containers, we suggest applying a <strong>special layer that seals the surface</strong> (food-safe coating) and printing with a stainless steel nozzle.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials"><strong>material table.</strong></a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low price</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Brittle and inflexible</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print, suitable for beginners</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Low UV and temperature resistance</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good detail and low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Difficult post-processing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Suitable for large models</p>
</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of PLA is for printing concept models, prototypes, or low-wear toys.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Consider using a smooth PEI sheet</strong></p>
<p>If you print with PLA on our Original Prusa i3 printers, <strong>you can print on either a smooth, powder-coated TXT or powder-coated satin sheet.</strong> However, the smooth sheet works better for printing parts that have a small contact area with the print surface. With a powder-coated sheet, you should move your live-Z lower: Filament must fill in the sheet texture. However, you need to be careful and not move the nozzle too low or you will damage your sheet! <strong>Info for different printer users:</strong> PLA is printable not only on PEI surface, but also on glass, Kapton tape, or using a glue stick.</p>
<p><strong>Try to adjust retractions for better results</strong></p>
<p>PLA is sometimes prone to stringing and oozing - this can be reduced with proper retraction settings.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
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<div class="c-message_kit__gutter__right" data-qa="message_content">
<div class="c-message_kit__blocks c-message_kit__blocks--rich_text">
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<div class="p-rich_text_section"><a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">Chemical smoothing</a> of PLA is possible only in <strong>laboratory conditions</strong> - PLA can be dissolved in <strong>chloroform, hot benzene, or tetrahydrofuran.</strong> These are dangerous organic solvents that should be handled only by skilled lab technicians. Some of the PLA filaments can be also partially dissolved and <strong>glued with acetone</strong> (or you can simply glue it with superglue).</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Masks</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Static models</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Vases, cups, and other tabletop models</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Audio volume knob and other electronic parts</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="399" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>ABS</strong> is a technical material <strong>suitable for printing mechanically stressed parts</strong>, thanks to its high tenacity and temperature resistance. Its surface can be smoothed with <strong>acetone</strong>. The main disadvantage is significant warping and toxic fumes.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 255 °C&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 100 °C, you can set the bed temperature between 80 to 110 °C depending on the size of an object (larger object means higher temperature).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed: Use the smooth or powder-coated PEI sheet with a glue stick.</strong></div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/asa-abs/"><strong>ABS</strong></a> (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is basically a <strong>predecessor of</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/asa_1809"><strong>ASA</strong></a>. ABS is generally used for making inexpensive, sturdy mechanical parts (LEGO bricks, car parts, cellphone parts, etc.). The material is <strong>tenacious and temperature resistant</strong> - this makes it suitable for engineering parts, etc. Compared to ASA, there is slightly worse UV resistance and more significant warping and odor during printing. Note that ABS parts used outdoor turn yellowish and more brittle over time.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">ABS printing requires specific conditions for successful results. It’s important to run the prints in a well-ventilated room because the material releases fumes and substances that could pose a potential health risk. However, when ventilating the room, do not create a draft around the print – this will negatively impact the result.</div>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High tenacity &amp; mechanical resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Significant warping</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High temperature-resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Requires printer enclosure</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy postprocessing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Potentially dangerous fumes (styrene)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Possibility of acetone smoothing and gluing</p>
</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of ABS is for printing cheap technical parts requiring good heat and mechanical resistance or parts that need to be acetone smoothed.</p>
<h3><strong>Tips for successful printing</strong></h3>
<p><strong>Try to keep a high ambient temperature</strong></p>
<p>The bed should be heated at least up to 100 °C, <strong>the printer should be inside an enclosure</strong> with a higher ambient temperature.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can purchase the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/">Original Prusa Enclosure</a> in our e-shop.</p>
<p>It is also possible to <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/">make your own enclosure</a>.</p></div>
<p>If you don’t have an enclosure, there’s one simple alternative: in <strong>PrusaSlicer</strong>, set the skirt value as high as possible. This will keep the model slightly warmer and mitigate the warping. Printing inside an enclosure can lead to deformation of the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/cs/produkt/fan-shroud-bl-mk3s-mmu2s-mk2-5s/">fan shroud</a> and other plastic parts. This can affect the printer's functionality. In case your plastic parts tend to deform, we recommend printing them from a more temperature resistant material, for example <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812"><strong>Prusament PC Blend</strong></a>.</p>
<p><strong>Shrinkage</strong></p>
<p>You should keep in mind that <strong>ABS-printed parts tend to shrink slightly</strong> after cooldown. We recommend printing a testing object and comparing it with a source model. The shrinkage factor of this material is somewhere around 1-2%.</p>
<p><strong>Removing prints</strong></p>
<p>When removing prints with a large surface area, it is very important to let the part and sheet cool properly. <strong>You may have to assist the process using a spatula.</strong> Be gentle when flexing the sheet and removing the print as the smooth PEI foil can tear.</p>
<p><strong>Printing with HIPS</strong></p>
<p>If you print with <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-upgrade-kit-for-mk2-5-mk3s-org/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">MMU2S</strong></a>, you can use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/hips_167118">HIPS</a> for printing supports - this material has similar print settings to ABS and can be easily dissolved in limonene.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
<p>ABS can be sanded wet and dry and smoothed with acetone fumes, just like ASA (see more in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>)</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 319px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 301px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1417"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 301px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Lego bricks</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Acetone smoothed model</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<h3>Smart wipe tower</h3>
<p>The smart wipe tower ensures <strong>sharp color transitions</strong> and <strong>stable filament flow</strong> after a color change while aiming to waste as little filament as possible. There is always only one wipe tower no matter how many objects are being printed at once.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">
<p><strong>The size of the wipe tower is independent of the size of the object being printed.</strong></p>
<p>Printing multiple copies at once or printing big objects improves the overall efficiency of the filament used.</p>
</div>
<h4>Wipe tower placement</h4>
<p>As soon as you select a multi-material printer in the Printer selection box, the smart wipe tower will appear in the 3D view. The preview shows its maximum footprint, because the size may decrease after slicing, based on the number of color changes in each layer. The size will decrease from the edge with the polyline. You can change the placement of the wipe tower by dragging it with the left mouse button. Make sure the wipe tower doesn’t intersect any of the objects.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">To shorten the travel moves between the object and the wipe tower, place it in the near proximity of the object/objects.</div>
<div><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_tower_size.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_tower_size-300x103.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_tower_size-600x206.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_tower_size-768x264.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_tower_size-800x275.jpg 800w" alt="" /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><em>The real size of the wipe tower is visible in the G-code preview</em></div>
<h4>Wipe tower size</h4>
<p>In <strong>Print settings - Multiple Extruders - Wipe tower</strong> you can set the <strong>Width</strong> of the wipe tower. The other dimension is calculated automatically based on the amount of filament necessary to purge.</p>
<p>The purge amount can be set by clicking on the <strong>Purging volumes...</strong> button in the right panel.</p>
<p>The wipe tower is rarely solid. Instead, the ratio of sparse and dense infill is automatically adjusted every layer, based on the current number of color changes, in order to waste as little filament as possible.</p>
<p><strong>Wipe tower ramming line</strong></p>
<p>If you see a line in the air above the Wipe tower, that's <strong>normal</strong>. It's the visualization of the final extruder ramming before it unloads the last used filament (in order to create a sharp tip).</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_tower_purge_line.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_tower_purge_line-600x392.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_tower_purge_line-800x522.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_tower_purge_line-300x196.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_tower_purge_line-768x501.png 768w" alt="" /></p>
<h3>Wipe tower without sparse layers</h3>
<p>The wipe tower size can be reduced by skipping the sparse layers (layers without a tool change). This saves material and in almost all cases reduces the print time.</p>
<ol>
<li>Go to <strong>Print settings - Multiple extruders</strong></li>
<li>Tick <strong>No sparse layers (EXPERIMENTAL)</strong></li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sparse_layers.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sparse_layers-300x152.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sparse_layers-600x305.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sparse_layers-768x390.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sparse_layers-800x406.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p>On our set of multi-material projects, this feature reduced the total print time by 3.16%, and the filament deposited on the wipe tower was reduced by 16.17%.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">The wipe tower without sparse layers feature is very useful together with <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/colorprint-with-the-mmu_124861">ColorPrint with the MMU</a>. Only a handful of filament switches are needed to print a colored sign unattended and as a result, a lot of material is saved compared to a full wipe tower.</div>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Turn off Crash detection</strong> if you're using a wipe tower without sparse layers. Otherwise, you're risking a potential collision between the x-axis and the printed object during crash recovery.</div>
</div>
<div class="note-callout"> As PrusaSlicer currently does not check for collisions of the extruder with the printed object when lowering down to the top of the wipe tower, this feature is marked as experimental, and it is recommended to place the <strong>wipe tower to the rear right corner</strong> of the MK3S's print bed, while the <strong>object is placed to the opposite corner</strong>.</div>
<h3>Wipe to infill</h3>
<p>Since the inside of the model isn’t visible, it can be used to wipe the nozzle during the color transition. The wipe tower cannot be eliminated completely, because some models do not have enough infill, but wipe to infill can <strong>greatly reduce the amount of wasted material</strong>.</p>
<ol>
<li><strong>Right-click</strong> on a model in the 3D view.</li>
<li>Choose <strong>Wipe options</strong>.</li>
<li>Then in the right panel tick <strong>Wipe into this object’s infill</strong>.</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">Dark filament purged into infill may be visible through light-colored walls. To avoid this issue, we suggest increasing the number of perimeters.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_to_infill_crop.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_to_infill_crop-300x165.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_to_infill_crop-600x329.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_to_infill_crop-768x421.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_to_infill_crop-800x439.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3>Wipe object</h3>
<p>To further decrease the amount of material used for the smart wipe tower, you can choose to wipe residual filament into an object. The so-called ‘wipe object’ will be used during the color transition to wipe the nozzle. As a result, the colors of the object will be mixed - this is handy in case you don’t care about the surface color (e.g. mechanical parts).</p>
<ol>
<li><strong>Right-click</strong> on a model in the 3D view</li>
<li>Choose <strong>Wipe options</strong>.</li>
<li>Then in the right panel tick <strong>Wipe into this object</strong></li>
</ol>
<p><strong>Wipe object taller than the multi-colored object</strong><br />The wipe object will be finished with the last filament used during the multi-colored print.</p>
<p><strong>Multi-colored object taller than the wipe object</strong><br />After the wipe object is finished printing, wiping will move to the smart wipe tower.</p>
<div class="note-callout">During a color change, the flow isn't perfectly stable. For example, a tiny amount of air can get trapped in the nozzle as the new melted material pushes from the top. As a result, slight artifacts can appear on your wipe object.</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_object.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_object-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_object-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_object-768x433.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/wipe_object-800x451.jpg 800w" alt="" /><em>The footprint of the wipe tower is minimal thanks to the wipe object (gear)</em></p>
<h3>Stabilizing cone</h3>
<p>The wipe tower can optionally be printed with a “stabilization cone”, which prevents it from toppling over. This feature is especially useful when the wipe/priming tower is very small in footprint, but can reach great heights, as on the Original Prusa XL.</p>
<p>The apex angle of the cone is adjustable in Print Settings-Multiple Extruders-Wipe tower. Setting the value to zero disables the cone.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/d2e0a0e519e15f32289d5f722f488733.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Wipe tower" alt="" width="2011" height="1220" /></p>


Wipe tower

<p>This error can appear during the Self-test or the XYZ-calibration when the firmware detects a shorter distance of axis travel than expected. The exact length of each axis is stored in the printer's memory. Depending on where it is triggered, it will name the running process (Selftest, XYZ calibration, etc.) and will state the message "<strong><em>Please</em> c<em>heck: Axis length</em></strong>" on the display and the letter for the problematic axis, <strong>in the bottom right ("<em>X/Y/Z</em>")</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fa4fcd5d6dae0834_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fa4fcd5d6dae0834_painted-300x102.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fa4fcd5d6dae0834_painted-600x204.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fa4fcd5d6dae0834_painted-768x261.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fa4fcd5d6dae0834_painted-800x272.jpeg 800w" alt="" width="600" height="204"></p>
<div class="note-callout">The length of the respective axis is determined on the Original Prusa MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ and MMU2S printers using the Trinamic stepper-drivers, which are detecting the end of each axis by the rise of the current going to the motor. In rare scenarios, the printer movement may not indicate an issue, while the test fails.</div>
<h3>Possible causes for X/Y-axis</h3>
<p>Most often it indicates an issue on the hardware level, and as it is the same method used for <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/crash-detection_2100">Crash detection</a> on the Original Prusa MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ printers, the issue should initially be troubleshot the same way. Check that belts and pulleys are installed as is shown in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/assembly-manuals_272">Assembly manual</a>, and make sure the axis can move smoothly along the full length of the axis, in both directions. Nothing should be loose. Make sure the pulley set-screw is secured on the <strong>flat side of the motor shaft.</strong> See <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/crash-detection_2100">Crash detection</a> for more information.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 50%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1810190fc149f19_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1810190fc149f19_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1810190fc149f19_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1810190fc149f19_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1810190fc149f19_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w" alt="" width="450" height="450"></td>
<td style="width: 50%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7010d530fa7ada17_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7010d530fa7ada17_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7010d530fa7ada17_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7010d530fa7ada17_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7010d530fa7ada17_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w" alt="" width="450" height="450"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 50%; text-align: center;">Correct <strong>X-axis</strong> pulley orientation and position.</td>
<td style="width: 50%; text-align: center;">Correct <strong>Y-axis</strong> pulley orientation and position.</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Take a look at the extruder from behind, make sure that the cable bundle with the textile sleeve (or spiral wrap) isn't too wide, and touching the frame of the printer before the extruder can move to the initial position.</p>
<h4>Position of zip ties on the cable-holder</h4>
<p>Make sure the zip ties are situated exactly like instructed in the assembly manual. You want the top zip ties on the very top (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrows</span>) or cleanly against the printed <em>cable-holder</em>. <strong>Zip ties must not interfere with either end of the axis <em>Einsy-door</em> or the PSU.</strong> Move the extruder to each end and check if the zip ties are touching either end.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">In general, always make sure your cable management and assembly of the extruder <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-e-axis-assembly_169235#170224">is exactly as instructed in all steps of the assembly manual</a>.</div>
<p>The bottom zip ties holding the heater and thermistor cable must also be positioned so they do not interfere with the ends of the axis (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrows</span>), but also <strong>do not touch the Heatbed-cable-cover</strong>. Make sure they are cut flush with the head of the zip tie.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted-1536x1536.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="400"></p>
<h3>Possible causes for Z-axis</h3>
<p>The main end-stop of the Z-axis is the <span class="tooltip" data-tooltip="p-i-n-d-a-sensor_125447">P.I.N.D.A. sensor,</span> so you should first make sure this is not set too high or not working correctly. See <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/p-i-n-d-a-superpinda-sensor-testing_2091">P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA Sensor testing</a> for more information.</p>
<p>However, more often there is an issue with your assembly, which interferes with the distance traveled. You need to look over your assembly and pay extra attention to <strong>the orientation of the Trapezoid nuts</strong> (Z lead screw). A section of its threads should be inside the printed part, not protruding up from the printed part. The highest point should be the M3 bolts securing the Trapezoid nuts. Also, if the error occurs during calibration, make sure nothing is touching the bed, i.e. a zip-tie on the bundle of cables.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 100%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/636b2adebdda2247_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/636b2adebdda2247_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/636b2adebdda2247_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/636b2adebdda2247_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/636b2adebdda2247_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w" alt="" width="450" height="450"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 100%; text-align: center;">Correct orientation of the Trapezoid nut (Z lead screw).</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Another possible cause is that you have loaded an incorrect version of the firmware. For instance, the extruder for the Original Prusa MK3 and MK3S/MK3S+ are of different size, and therefore have a different length of expected travel. <strong>Always make sure you are using the correct firmware.</strong></p>
<p>For more info on issues with the Z-axis, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/failing-z-calibration-mk3s-mk2-5s_160858">Failing Z calibration (MK3S/MK2.5S)</a>.</p>
<h3>Lubrication</h3>
<p>Try to lubricate the smooth rods, as instructed in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/maintenance-tips_23200">Maintenance tips</a>. The Original Prusa MK3S/MK3S+ is supplied with a tube of lubricant.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusa-lubricant-005g.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusa-lubricant-005g-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusa-lubricant-005g-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusa-lubricant-005g-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusa-lubricant-005g-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="400"></p>

Check Axis Length X/Y/Z (MK3S)


<ul>
<li>Issues with numeric keyboard repaired (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL)</li>



<li>Returned nozzle diameter setup (XL)</li>



<li>Printhead position during calibrations changed (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Cold pull (XL)</li>
</ul>


6.1.3 (3.0.3) MK3.5S, MK3.5

6.1.3 (3.0.3) MK4S, MK4, MK3.9S, MK3.9


<ul>
<li>Improved menu bar, the menu no longer hides under a button</li>



<li>Two new parameters (Abrasive material and High flow nozzle) for G-Code checks</li>



<li>Improved automatic orientation of bridges</li>



<li>Number of bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.1


<ul>
<li>Support for MK3.9S and MK3.5S printers</li>



<li>Numeric keyboard</li>



<li>Custom names for steel sheet</li>



<li>User-configurable hostname</li>



<li>Binary G-code check</li>



<li>ESP firmware flash during boot (MINI, MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S)</li>



<li>New bootloader 2.3.5</li>



<li>Network Status screen</li>



<li>Steel sheet name in footer (MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Powered Z-motors during calibration procedure (MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S)</li>



<li>Default nozzle diameter set to 0.4 (XL)</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


6.1.2 (3.0.3) MK3.5S, MK3.5

6.1.2 (3.0.3) MK4S, MK4, MK3.9S, MK3.9

6.0.4 (3.0.3) MK3.5

6.0.4 (3.0.3) MK4, MK3.9


<ul>
<li>PrusaLink and Prusa Connect updates</li>



<li>PowerPanic improvements</li>



<li>Mesh Bed Leveling (MBL) improvements</li>



<li>New / Improved G-codes</li>



<li>User Interface updates</li>



<li>Community features</li>



<li>Firmware development changes</li>
</ul>


3.14.0 (3.0.2) MK3S+


<ul>
<li>Prusa Connect integration</li>



<li>Prusa Account integration</li>



<li>Improved UI</li>



<li>Improved G-code Viewer</li>



<li>New system profile updating system</li>



<li>Single Perimeter for top and bottom layers</li>



<li>Extended SLA layer separation configuration</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.0


<ul>
<li>Interim solution of USB disconnect issues (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL)</li>



<li>PINDA off-bed probing repaired (MK3.5)</li>
</ul>


6.0.3 (3.0.3) MK3.5


<ul>
<li>Interim solution of USB disconnect issues (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL)</li>
</ul>


6.0.3. (3.0.3) MK4, MK3.9


<ul>
<li>Improvements by Prusa community</li>
</ul>


6.0.2 (3.0.3) MK3.5

6.0.2 (3.0.3) MK4, MK3.9


<ul>
<li>Japanese language support (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL)</li>



<li>Stealth mode corrected (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL)</li>
</ul>


6.0.1 (3.0.3) MK3.5


<ul>
<li>Japanese language support (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL)</li>



<li>Nozzle cleaning repaired (MK4, MK3.9, XL)</li>



<li>Acceleration limit restored (MK4, MK3.9, MINI)</li>



<li>Stealth mode corrected (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL)</li>
</ul>


6.0.1 (3.0.3) MK4, MK3.9


<ul>
<li>Touch support </li>



<li>Stuck filament detection </li>



<li>Stealth mode </li>



<li>MMU3 support for the MK4/MK3.9</li>



<li>MMU3 firmware auto-update </li>



<li>Cold Pull </li>



<li>Time Zone settings updated </li>
</ul>


6.0.0 (3.0.3) MK4, MK3.9


<ul>
<li>Touch support</li>



<li>Stealth mode</li>



<li>MMU3 support for the MK3.5</li>



<li>MMU3 firmware auto-update</li>



<li>Time Zone settings updated</li>



<li>Bed Level Correction</li>
</ul>


6.0.0 (3.0.3) MK3.5


<ul>
<li>Improvements by the Prusa community</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>



<li>Known issues</li>



<li>MK3S+ firmware remains at 3.13.3</li>
</ul>


3.13.3 (3.0.2) MK3S+


<ul>
<li>Objects from 3MFs generated by BambuStudio now retain multimaterial painting when loaded</li>



<li>Fixed a bug where downloading files from Printables did not work when enabled in Preferences</li>
</ul>


2.7.4


<ul>
<li>Improvements to multi-material printing</li>



<li>Vase mode smoothing</li>



<li>Support for 3MF files generated in BambuStudio</li>



<li>Metadata with boundary polygon of each object</li>
</ul>


2.7.3


<ul>
<li>Updated with instructions for MK4</li>
</ul>


1.02


<ul>
<li>Initial release for the Original Prusa MK3.5</li>



<li>Bundle includes firmware for printers and the MMU3 unit</li>
</ul>



<p></p>


MK3.5 5.2.1 (3.0.2), MK3S+ 3.13.1 (3.0.0)


<ul>
<li> Updated with instructions for MK3.5</li>
</ul>


1.01


<ul>
<li>Binary G-code settings</li>



<li>Wipe tower weight</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.7.1


<ul>
<li>New SVG support</li>



<li>Binary G-Code (.bgcode) export support + conversion</li>



<li>Arc fitting support </li>
</ul>


2.7.0


<ul>
<li>New Arrange tool options</li>



<li>New Cut tool options</li>



<li>Per-symbol text projection on surface</li>



<li>Interlocking of painted areas for MMU printing</li>
</ul>


2.6.1


<ul>
<li>XYZ calibration fixed</li>
</ul>


3.13.1 (3.0.0)


<ul>
<li>MMU3 firmware support</li>



<li>Features by the Prusa community
<ul>
<li>E3D Revo support</li>



<li>Meatpack support</li>



<li>Do not preheat the heatbed on load/unload</li>



<li>Features and translations</li>
</ul>
</li>



<li>Support for G-Code M850</li>



<li>First Layer Calibration - nozzle diameter</li>



<li>PrusaLink improvements</li>



<li>Build environment with cmake</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


3.13.0 (3.0.0)


<ul>
<li>Initial release for Original Prusa MMU3</li>
</ul>



<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa MMU3

Downloads

Firmware 3.14.0 (3.0.2) MK3S+

Firmware 6.1.3 (3.0.3) MK4S, MK4, MK3.9S, MK3.9

Firmware 6.1.3 (3.0.3) MK3.5S, MK3.5

Drivers & Apps 2.8.1

Handbook 1.02

How to

Assembly Instructions