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1. All the required tools are included
Step 1 of 11 (Chapter 1 of 11)
Contents
Comments
⬢The kit includes:
⬢Needle-nose pliers (1x)
⬢Philips screwdriver (1x)
⬢Allen key (6x)
⬢The printer's package contains a lubricant, which is intended for maintenance. No need to use it now the bearings are lubricated. There is a dedicated online manual on how to clean the printer and apply the lubricant. See help.prusa3d.com/maintenance-tips
No soldering is required.
No wire crimping is required.
Contents
Comments
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bassklampfe
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Question: Is there is list, which sizes the Allen Keys are?In https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/1-introduction_426859 the sizes are given in the pictures, but in https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/1-introduction_24976 they are missing.
friendnate
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I'd suggest for future models that you include bits for the allen/hex bolts that can be used in a screwdriver. There are only a couple areas that require the full length of the 2.5mm ball socket allen wrench thats provided. you could switch to a socket type handle with the philips bit, 2mm bit, and 2.5mm bits along with the 2.5mm ball socket allen wrench. Those might end up being the same cost when compared. Also a precision screw driver to prevent dropped wrenches and finger torture would be a more ergonomic solution. I ended up switching to a bit and screw driver set up during the x-axis assembly and saved myself some unecessary frustration.
El-Tigre
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I agree. Do yourself a favour and use a ratcheting screwdriver with hex bits for the bulk of the build. It saved me hours of twisting little hex wrenches. I never stripped a screw head or broke a bolt. Finger tight is plenty for virtually all of this little precision machine.
primaxius
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VERY IMPORTANT....LUBE...LUBE...LUBE... The guide is wrong... LUBE your bearings, if you do not the lubricant that is currently applied will wear off very fast as it's only a Rust Prevent Oil and especially with the Misumi branded bearings will cause your linear rods to wear and possibly gouge them. The Misumi bearings are the better bearings but they require lube.
tbratten
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I just received my I3 MK3S kit and am about to start assembly. I am looking at this online version of the instructions with comments. The officlal Prusa instructions say:
"The printer's package contains a lubricant, which is intended for maintenance. No need to use it now the bearings are lubricated."
Then, this comments said the guide is wrong. I would think that since this comment directly contradicts the official instructions that someone from Prusa would weigh in.
So, what is the OFFICIAL Prusa stand on this?
"The printer's package contains a lubricant, which is intended for maintenance. No need to use it now the bearings are lubricated."
Then, this comments said the guide is wrong. I would think that since this comment directly contradicts the official instructions that someone from Prusa would weigh in.
So, what is the OFFICIAL Prusa stand on this?
Giuliano - Official Prusa CS
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Hello. The lubricant is not required before assembly, but if you apply it at this step it certainly does no harm.
Patrick S
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THe french version for the "Assembly Instructions" is here : https://help.prusa3d.com/fr/guide/1-introduction_24982 ; the small flag in the corner just sends to a hard worker !
Marek V.
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It works for me. Maybe we were changing something in the French version or the servers were down.
KP
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After finishing with the kit build, here are the following tools that are optional but will help your build go faster and easier. They are arranged in roughly descending order of how often I reached for them.
* I set up an iPad next to the work area and it was very helpful to follow this online guide on a tablet. The ability to read the comments and zoom into the pictures is invaluable.
* Magnifier with light, worn on head. Extremely helpful for small and dark nuts, bolts and assemblies, and surely prevented a few mistakes.
* Low powered electric screwdriver, with bits to drive metric hex head bolts. Don't use for starting or ending, just in the long middle.
* Scotch or masking tape to keep parts from falling out during an assembly.
* Torque screwdriver. Not as useful as I thought, since most bolts don't have a torque specification.
* A rubber mallet came in handy in a couple of steps.
* Isopropyl alcohol when you get to the final test and start your prints.
Some techniques that were also generally useful:
* Get into the habit of using one of the thin allen keys to clean out screw holes in plastic parts before you put stuff into them.
* For screw holes that are in metal, use the prescribed bolt and the electric screwdriver to clean out the screw hole before starting the assembly.
Both of the above techniques will make your bolts go in right the first time.
* I set up an iPad next to the work area and it was very helpful to follow this online guide on a tablet. The ability to read the comments and zoom into the pictures is invaluable.
* Magnifier with light, worn on head. Extremely helpful for small and dark nuts, bolts and assemblies, and surely prevented a few mistakes.
* Low powered electric screwdriver, with bits to drive metric hex head bolts. Don't use for starting or ending, just in the long middle.
* Scotch or masking tape to keep parts from falling out during an assembly.
* Torque screwdriver. Not as useful as I thought, since most bolts don't have a torque specification.
* A rubber mallet came in handy in a couple of steps.
* Isopropyl alcohol when you get to the final test and start your prints.
Some techniques that were also generally useful:
* Get into the habit of using one of the thin allen keys to clean out screw holes in plastic parts before you put stuff into them.
* For screw holes that are in metal, use the prescribed bolt and the electric screwdriver to clean out the screw hole before starting the assembly.
Both of the above techniques will make your bolts go in right the first time.