1b. Printer disassembly

Relevant for:

MK3.9

Last updated a month ago

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Available languages

Step 1 Tools necessary for this chapter

⬢For this chapter, please prepare:

⬢Needle-nose pliers for cutting zip ties

⬢Philips (PH2) screwdriver

⬢2.0 mm Allen key for heatbed screws

⬢2.5mm Allen key for all M3 screws

Step 2 Opening the electronics box

⬢Loosen the screw on the Einsy-base.

⬢Open the Einsy-door to access the electronics.

Step 3 Disconnecting cables

⬢Some units may have cable bundles secured with zip ties. Carefully cut the zip ties.

Avoid cutting the cables. Although no cable of electronic parts will be needed for the upgrade, you can keep them for a project of your own.

⬢Release two screws in the heatbed-cable-clip and remove it from the printer.

⬢Disconnect all cables from the Einsy board.

Cable management, Einsy board, and wiring colors may vary between printer models.

Some of the cables have a safety latch on the connector. Press the latch before disconnecting.

⬢Release the screws on all power cables and disconnect them from the Einsy board using the screwdriver.

⬢Release two screws in the extruder-cable-clip and remove it from the printer.

Step 4 Removing the Einsy-base

⬢Inside the Einsy-base, loosen the screw under the Einsy (electronics board).

No need to remove the screw completely at this time.

⬢From the opposite side of the Einsy-base, locate the screw behind the cooling fins and loosen it, no need to remove it.

⬢Grasp the Einsy-base and slide it out of the printer frame.

Step 5 Removing the Einsy-door

⬢Release two screws securing the hinges.

⬢Remove the Einsy-door with the hinges from the printer frame.

⬢Remove the remaining two screws from the frame.

Step 6 Removing the heatbed

⬢Release nine countersunk screws securing the heatbed.

⬢Remove the heatbed from the Y-carriage.

After removing the heatbed, there are nine unattached spacers on the Y-carriage. Watch out, they tend to fall off. After removing them, count them all to be sure.

You will no longer need these parts for the upgrade. We are more concerned that this small part is not found later by your child or your dog and that no injury occurs.

⬢We recommend placing the heatbed temporarily on a piece of clean cloth or other soft pad.

Step 7 Dismantling cable management

⬢Place the printer on the side with the PSU.

⬢Focus on the left Z-axis motor.

⬢Cut the zip ties securing the cable bundle.

The number of zip ties may vary between printer models.

⬢Cut the zip ties in the right Z-axis motor.

⬢Leave the cables free for now.

Check the condition of the Y and Z motor cables. If the zip ties have been too tight for a long time, the cables may be damaged.

Step 8 Removing the LCD assembly

⬢Carefully remove the LCD cables from the extrusion.

⬢Place the printer back on its feet.

⬢Release four M3 screws securing the LCD assembly in the front plate.

⬢Remove the LCD assembly from the printer.

Step 9 Dismantling the Y-axis: removing the belt

⬢Release two M3 screws securing the Y-belt-idler in the front plate.

⬢Remove the Y-belt-idler from the front plate. Leave it free "inside" the frame for now.

⬢Take the belt off the GT2-16 pulley on the Y-axis motor.

Step 10 Removing the Y-axis assembly

⬢Release and remove two M3 screws securing each Y-rod-holder in the front plate.

Note: MK3 and MK3S printers have different Y-rod-holder designs. At this point, the difference doesn't matter.

⬢Release and remove two M3 screws securing each Y-rod-holder in the rear plate.

⬢Remove the entire Y-axis assembly from the printer.

Do not remove any parts from the assembly at this time.

Step 11 Removing the Z-axis-tops

⬢On the Z-axis-top-left, release two M3 screws.

⬢Remove the Z-axis-top-left from the printer.

⬢On the Z-axis-top-right, release two M3 screws.

⬢Remove the Z-axis-top-right.

Step 12 Removing the cable-holder

⬢From the back of the extruder, cut three zip ties at the top of the textile sleeve wraps the cable bundle. And two zip ties on the underside of the cable-holder.

Some MK3 units may have a rubber spiral wrap instead of the textile sleeve.

⬢Loosen the M3 screw securing the cable-holder.

⬢Remove the cable-holder from the extruder.

Step 13 Removing the X-axis assembly

⬢From the front side of the printer, rotate both threaded Z-axis rods in parallel to move the X-axis assembly upwards. Stop when the trapezoid nuts of the X-axis assembly come out of the threaded rods.

⬢Remove the X-axis assembly from the printer.

⬢Pull out both Z-axis smooth rods from the Z-bottoms.

Step 14 Removing the Z-axis motors

⬢Release four M3 screws from both Z-bottom securing the Z-axis motors.

⬢Remove the motors by pulling them out from underneath.

Do not discard the Z motors! Keep them aside. You will ned them for the MK3.9 upgrade.

Step 15 Removing the Z-axis-bottoms

⬢Release three M3 screws on both Z-axis-bottom-right and Z-axis-bottom-left.

⬢Remove the Z-axis-bottoms from the printer.

Step 16 Removing the Y-motor

⬢Peel off the sticker with the serial number of your printer. After the printer upgrade is complete, you will stick the label with the new serial number.

⬢From the back of the printer, release two M3 screws securing the Y-axis motor assembly on the rear plate.

⬢Remove the Y-axis motor assembly from the printer.

The serial number label can be on the back of the rear plate or on the back of the printer above the PSU.

⬢Release two M3 screws on the Y-motor-holder and remove it from the motor.

⬢Loosen both grub screws in the pulley and remove the pulley from the motor. Keep the Y motor for later.

The upgrade kit includes a new pulley. Keep this old one aside to avoid mixing them up.

Step 17 Disconnecting the power cables (Black PSU)

This step is intended for the black PSU only. If you have the silver PSU, skip this step.

⬢Place the printer frame on its left side (the side without the PSU).

⬢Focus on the cables guiding from the PSU.

⬢Release two M3 screws inside the PSU-cover.

⬢Remove the PSU-cover from the PSU.

⬢Disconnect all power cables from the PSU.

⬢Disconnect the power panic cable from the PSU.

Step 18 Disassembling the Y-carriage: belt

Now the printer is disassembled into subassemblies. Some subassemblies require even minor surgery. Let's get started.

⬢Take the Y-axis assembly.

⬢Release two M3 screws securing the Y-belt-holder and Y-belt-tensioner.

MK3 has a different-looking part Y-belt-holder. However, the procedure is the same.

The Y-carriage part may differ from the picture depending on your printer model.

⬢Remove the belt assembly from the Y-carriage.

Step 19 Dissasembling the Y-carriage: rod holders

⬢There are the M3 screws on the Y-rod-holders. Loosen the screw and take the Y-rod-holder off the rod.

MK3 and MK3S use a zip tie instead of a screw. Cut off the zip tie and remove the Y-rod-holder from the rod.

⬢Do the same with all four Y-rod-holders.

⬢Remove the smooth rods from the Y-carriage assembly.

Step 20 Disassembling the Y-carriage: bearings

⬢Release two screws on each bearing clip on the Y-carriage.

MK3 and MK3S have U-bolts instead of bearing clips secured with two M3nN nuts on the opposite side.

Early MK3S+ units have bearing clips secured by two M3nN nuts on the opposite side.

⬢Remove the bearing clip and the bearing.

⬢In this way, remove all three bearings from the Y-carriage.

New bearings are not part of the MK3.9 upgrade kit. If the bearings have been functioning properly thus far, retain them for the MK3.9 upgrade. However, if they have significant substantial wear, it is advisable to purchase new bearings from our eshop.

Step 21 Disassembling the X-axis: Removing the pulley

⬢Remove the M3 screw securing the pulley in the X-end-idler.

⬢Pull the pulley and the belt out of the X-end-idler.

Put the pulley aside, you don't need it anymore.

Step 22 Removing the X-axis motor

⬢Loosen the tensioning screw on the X-end-motor on the X-axis.

Note that the screw position may vary depending on the printer model.

⬢Release three M3 screws securing the X-axis motor.

⬢Pull the X-axis motor and pulley out of the belt and remove it from the X-axis.

Step 23 Removing the X-axis smooth rods

⬢Pull the X-end-motor from the X-axis assembly.

It can be difficult to remove the part and more force is required. Use extreme caution to avoid injury.

⬢Slide the extruder assembly completely from the X-axis assembly.

⬢Pull out both smooth rods from the X-end-idler.

It can be difficult to remove the parts and more force is required. Use extreme caution to avoid injury.

⬢Keep the smooth rods aside, you will need them for the upgrade.

Step 24 Removing the X-axis bearings

⬢Release all the M3 screws securing the X-carriage-back on the back of the extruder assembly and remove it.

⬢Cut off the zip ties securing both upper bearings.

⬢Take off all LM8UU bearings from the extruder.

⬢Visually check their condition again. If they are in good condition, put them aside to use later when upgrading your printer.

Alternatively, you can use the LM8UU bearings from the X-ends that have not been subjected to so much stress during the printing. However, removing them is more difficult.

Step 25 Removing the X motor pulley

⬢Loosen both grub screws in the pulley and remove the pulley from the motor. Keep the X motor for later.

The upgrade kit includes a new pulley. Keep this old one aside to avoid mixing them up.

⬢Release two M3 screws on each trapezoid nut mounted on both X-ends.

⬢Remove the trapezoid nuts from the X-ends. Keep the trapezoidal nuts for later.

Step 26 For new users of black PSU

⬢If you've bought the black 24V 240W PSU, visit the dedicated installation guide here:How to replace the silver PSU with the black PSU.

Don't forget to get back to this manual afterwards.

Step 27 Parts summary I.

⬢The printer and its subassemblies are disassembled into individual parts. Let's show which parts will be needed for the next steps to upgrade the printer.

⬢Prepare the following parts for the next chapters:

⬢Printer frame with the PSU (1x)

⬢Y-carriage (1x)

⬢Smooth rod 8x370 mm (2x) X-axis

⬢Smooth rod 8x330 mm (2x) Y-axis

⬢LM8UU bearing (6x) from X and Y-axis

The list continues in the next step...