MK3.5S

<h3>Prusa CORE One shipping table</h3>
<table class="table" style="border-collapse: collapse; height: 418px; border-style: ridge; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>Batch number</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>Estimated shipping from:</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 10px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 10px;">
<p>1</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 10px;">
<p>January 31. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>2</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>February 12. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>3</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>February 18. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>4</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>February 25. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>5</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>March 3. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>6</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>March 7. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>7</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>March 12. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>8</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>March 18. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>9</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>March 21. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3><span style="font-size: 20px;">Current lead time estimates for new orders</span></h3>
<p><span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>Updated: February 6th, 2025 </strong></span></p>
<p><em>The dates are only an estimation at the date of update, specified above, and rely on the actual</em> production. <em>We're doing our best but please be aware that it can shift for the lead time products. We will update here and on the product pages accordingly.</em></p>
<p>The lead time estimate applies to standalone products, other products in the order may increase the lead time.</p>
<p>If you've ordered a product in a bundle, the lead time of the order is set based on the product in the bundle with the longest lead time.</p>
<p></p>
<table class="table" style="border-collapse: collapse; height: 930.875px; border-style: ridge; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 60.875px;">
<td style="height: 60.875px; width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Product</h4>
</td>
<td style="height: 60.875px; width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Lead time</h4>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3.9 to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>1 week</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK4S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>3-4 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>1 week</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/S+ to MK3.5S</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MK4S</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1 week</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MK4S kit</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa XL<br /></strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>1-3 weeks</strong><br />(depending on variant)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 upgrade kit<br />(for MK3.9/S &amp; MK4/S)<br /></strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade<br />(for MK3.9/S &amp; MK4/S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 assembled unit<br />(MK3.9/S &amp; MK4/S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 assembled unit<br />(MK3S+ &amp; MK3.5/S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa XL Enclosure</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>2-3 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MINI Enclosure</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MK Enclosure </strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>You can find your order shipping date in the order detail section in our shop.</p>
<div class="note-callout">All products purchased in our <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">online store</a> are currently being shipped from the<strong> Czech Republic, </strong>a member state of the <strong>European Union, customs charges may apply for shipments to countries outside of the EU!</strong> Please see our advisory article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/vat-value-added-tax-customs-fees_1505#orders-outside-eu">here</a>.</div>

Shipping information

Infill patterns

<p>The First Layer Calibration is used to calibrate the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the print surface. The aim is to adjust the nozzle height until the extruded plastic sticks nicely to the bed and you can see that it is being slightly squished.</p>
<p>The printers assembled in the Prusa factory are already fine-tuned and this calibration is needed only in case you build the kit version at home or change the nozzle. The First Layer Calibration is part of the Wizard (last step of the XYZ-Calibration). You can also recalibrate the first layer later on from the <em>LCD-menu - Calibration - First Layer Calibration</em>. During this process, rotate the knob to manually adjust the distance between the nozzle and the bed, while the printer is printing a zig-zag pattern.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">As <strong>each type of sheet (smooth, satin, and textured) has a different thickness</strong> you must use a different First layer calibration for each of them. For this, we have a convenient feature called <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<p>With a newly assembled printer, you will start at zero and move into a negative (-) value, reducing the distance between nozzle and heat bed. The initial zero-value is set by the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA. position. <strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed and moving the value away from zero. </strong>The value is unique to each printer and it may also slightly change with time and use. You must, therefore, <strong>check visually when adjusting the height, not by a set value. </strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-300x169.jpg 300w" alt="" width="600" height="338" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>The first layer calibration being set incorrectly can lead to various issues. With the nozzle too far from the print surface, you risk your print not sticking properly, which can result in a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/extruder-blob_2005">blob</a>. On the other side, if set too close, you can experience extrusion problems and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">clogging</a> and poor print quality, <strong>or even damage to the hardware, like the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">Flexible steel sheet</a> due to the print sticking too much.</strong> It is therefore <strong>important to get this right.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-300x62.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-600x125.jpg 600w" width="600" height="125" loading="lazy" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p>Before you proceed, make sure that the print surface (satin, smooth, or textured steel-sheet) is clean. You can find information on how to clean it in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">PEI print surface preparation</a>. There are some small differences between how it should look on the textured and smooth steel sheet. We will, therefore, present pictures and guidelines for both, starting with the smooth sheet.</p>
<div>
<div class="note-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed.</strong></div>
</div>
<h3>Smooth sheet</h3>
<h4>Too high</h4>
<p><strong>You want the line flattened, but not squished.</strong> On the square at the end of the test line, you do not want any <strong>gaps between the lines (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">left picture</span>), which means it is too high. </strong>In that case, the value will be too close to zero</p>
<h4>Too low</h4>
<p>If the nozzle is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) you will see the line squished completely flat and the end square will have <strong>ridges between the lines, which is a clear sign it is set too low</strong> and the value will be too far away from zero. When it is too low, the edges of the square can also start curling upwards. In the extreme, the filament will be spread so thin you will be able to see through the printed filament, leading to clogging of your hotend.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Having the nozzle too low can cause the nozzle to damage your steel sheet. This is not covered by <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/warranty_2288">Warranty</a>.</div>
<h4>Just right</h4>
<p>A correct adjustment will show you an even surface (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), with no gaps between lines, nor ridges. As stated, the numeric value depends on the exact position of the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor, which will be unique to each machine and means nothing without a visual reference. <strong>However, a common range is from -0.400 to -1.500.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-800x318.jpg 800w" /></p>
<div class="note-callout">Adjusting it closer can in some cases improve adhesion. However, if you are having problems with adhesion, but your first layer calibration looks like the 'good' picture (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), your problem lies somewhere else, like a dirty/greasy sheet, print-settings, bed leveling/XYZ calibration, or under-extrusion.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-600x214.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-800x286.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-300x107.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-768x274.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-1536x548.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-2048x731.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1121" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>You can not use the same first layer calibration if you swap between the Smooth and the textured sheet! </strong>For more information, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<h3>Textured sheet</h3>
<p>The textured sheets are thinner than the sheets with smooth PEI, therefore you need to move the nozzle bit closer, but you are seeking the same results as with the smooth sheet. Again, if <strong>it is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) the filament can start curling up</strong> around the edges like it is not adhering. The numeric value will be too far from zero and must be adjusted back.</p>
<p>If set too high, you will see the line being round, and have gaps between the lines of the end-square. In this case, the value is too close to zero.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg" /></p>
<h3>Have a look at the nozzle</h3>
<p>A single layer is about 0.2 mm / 0.00787402 inch. Having a look at the nozzle and its distance to the sheet can also be helpful. However, measuring the printed layer with calipers is not a recommended method to calibrate the first layer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05.jpg" /></p>
<h3>When to run the First layer calibration</h3>
<p>Generally, the <strong>first layer calibration</strong> should be performed every time there is a <strong>major change in the assembly.</strong> This includes changing the nozzle, extruder upgrades, or other updates to any axis. You should also run all calibrations if you move the printer to a different location.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For First Layer Calibrations with other nozzle diameters than 0.4 mm, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">this article</a></div>
<h3>Other issues</h3>
<ul>
<li>If the width of the line varies across its length, you may have to do some <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/bed-level-correction_2267">Bed Level Correction</a>.</li>
<li>If the nozzle comes in contact with the bed, the SuperPINDA/P.I.N.D.A. leveling sensor is not being triggered by the flexible steel sheet and must be physically moved lower in its holder. This will bring it closer to the level of the nozzle tip. You should make sure it is adjusted as instructed in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/9-preflight-check_76792">Preflight check</a> in the Assembly manual. <strong>If you move the leveling sensor you must redo the First layer calibration.</strong></li>
</ul>

First Layer Calibration (i3)

<div class="warning-callout">This is an&nbsp;<strong>advanced calibration</strong>, recommended only to&nbsp;<strong>experienced users</strong>.</div>
<p>The Extrusion Multiplier allows the fine-tuning of the extrusion flow rate - simply described as&nbsp;<strong>how much filament comes out of the nozzle</strong>. In other words, the&nbsp;<strong>Extrusion Multiplier</strong>&nbsp;setting in PrusaSlicer and the&nbsp;<strong>Flow rate</strong>&nbsp;setting in printer firmware are two ways to adjust the same thing, however, adjusting one of those two settings will not influence the value of the other.</p>
<p><strong>This procedure is not necessary with a new printer coming from the factory</strong>, but rather applies for specific applications and filaments. The ideal value is different for every type of material and every color. It can even differ from spool to spool. Bear this in mind if you change type and brand of filament often or use cheap no-name brands.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Total flow rate = <strong>Flow multiplier</strong> in firmware (M221) x <strong>Extrusion multiplier</strong> in PrusaSlicer. For those interested in diving deeper, PrusaSlicer uses the same <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Flow math as Slic3r</a>.</div>
<h3><strong>How to spot an issue</strong></h3>
<p>This calibration is used to fix two common problems:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Overextrusion</strong> - Too much material is extruded (flow is too high). It causes scarring of bottom layers and unnecessary material buildup on top layers.</li>
<li><strong>Minor under extrusion</strong>&nbsp;- Not enough material is extruded (flow is too low). It causes small gaps that appear between layer lines or perimeters.</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-600x282.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-800x376.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-300x141.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-768x361.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-1536x721.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="852" height="400"></p>
<p><strong>Overextrusion</strong> is a common problem with many filament brands. It's especially problematic when you're trying to glue two parts of the model. <strong>If the top layer is over extruded, you'll end up with an uneven surface that will prevent a seamless connection between the two pieces.</strong></p>
<h3><strong>How to do the calibration</strong></h3>
<p>In PrusaSlicer, navigate to <span class="key">Filament Settings</span> and look for Extrusion Multiplier. The default setting (for PLA) is 1, this value represents a percentage, 1 = 100%, 0.95 = 95% etc. Usually, the adjusted values can be between 0.9 and 1.1. To adjust it, simply rewrite the value.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 200px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/image-2019-1-15-12-55-6.png" data-hd-height="200px"></p>
<p>In the printer menu, during a print, go to the Tune menu and then choose Flow. Again, the usual values can range between 90 and 110, although that does not mean you can't go above or below that.</p>
<h4>Which method should I use?</h4>
<p>There are two methods you can use to calibrate the Extrusion Multiplier, and we'll cover both of them in this article:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Precise Method</strong>&nbsp; -&nbsp; using precision tools such as calipers or micrometers.</li>
<li><strong>Visual Method&nbsp;</strong>&nbsp;- an easy method based on observing the visual properties of your models.</li>
</ul>
<p>The choice of the method depends entirely on your preferences; in the end, both yield similar results. Even the visual method will enable you to have perfectly fitting parts with smooth &amp; flat top layers.</p>
<h4>Precise Method</h4>
<div class="note-callout">Please note that the following guide is based on <strong>default</strong> PrusaSlicer 0.4 nozzle profiles, with a layer height of 0.1mm - 0.2mm. This means that:<br />
- Nozzle size = 0.4<br />
- Extrusion width =&nbsp;0.45<br />
- Basic materials (PLA, ABS, PETG) Extrusion Multiplier = 1<br />
<strong>If you wish to calibrate the printer with a bigger/smaller nozzle or layer heights above 0.2, then you will need to adjust these values as well.</strong></div>
<ol>
<li>Download the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/cube-40-40-40.zip">Precision Method Cube STL</a>.</li>
<li>Slice it using the Vase Mode and your most-often used layer height and print it. You can find Vase mode (Print Settings →&nbsp; Layers and perimeters →&nbsp; Spiral vase).</li>
<li>Make three or more measurements in the middle of each wall and calculate the overall average thickness.</li>
<li>Calculate the extrusion multiplier using the following formula: <strong>Extrusion multiplier = (Extrusion width (0.45) / Average measured wall thickness)</strong>.</li>
<li>Adjust the Extrusion Multiplier in Filament Settings → Filament</li>
<li>Re-print the cube with new settings and go back to step 3 if necessary.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 220px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/micrometer-small-jpg.JPG" height="400" data-hd-height="220px"></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Please note that cheap digital calipers may not be accurate enough to make reliable measurements of a single perimeter wall.</div>
<h4>Visual Method</h4>
<p>This method does not require any tools, only your sight. The point is to make sure your top layers are <strong>smooth</strong>, <strong>shiny,</strong> and without <strong>scarring or filament buildup</strong> near the perimeters.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-600x374.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-800x499.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-300x187.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-768x479.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-1536x958.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="641" height="400"></p>
<ol>
<li>Download the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/visual-method-cube.zip">Visual Method Cube.stl</a></li>
<li>Slice it using the default Prusa PLA presets at 0.20mm layer height and print it.</li>
<li>Inspect the top layer of your cube visually and with the tip of the finger.</li>
<li>If the top is under extruded or not smooth, then re-adjust the Extrusion Multiplier accordingly by 1-2%.</li>
<li>Repeat the steps above as long as needed.</li>
</ol>
<p>If there is&nbsp;<strong>too much material</strong>&nbsp;near the perimeters,&nbsp;<strong>decrease</strong>&nbsp;the Extrusion Multiplier value.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 390px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/buildu.jpg" data-hd-height="390px" data-hd-align="left"></p>
<p>If there are&nbsp;<strong>visible gaps</strong>&nbsp;between layer lines,&nbsp;<strong>increase</strong> the Extrusion Multiplier value. (Microscopic gaps near the perimeters are OK.)</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 430px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/gaps.jpg" data-hd-height="430px" data-hd-align="left"></p>


Extrusion multiplier calibration

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>PETG</strong> is one of the most easily printable materials, it is <strong>inexpensive and suitable for beginners</strong>. Relatively high tenacity and temperature resistance make it <strong>suitable for printing technical parts</strong> (for example parts of our printers).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 230 °C for the first layer, 240 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 85 °C for the first layer, 90 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Using powder-coated TXT or satin sheet is highly recommended. Printing on smooth PEI surface might damage the sheet.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<div>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-petg/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PETG</strong></a> (Polyethylene Terephthalate modified with Glycol) is a commonly used technical material, popular among 3D printer users for its <strong>low price and good printability</strong>. It’s tenacious, with good temperature resistance; PETG is most commonly used for printing various mechanical parts, holders, clamps, and waterproof parts (thanks to great layer adhesion).</p>
<p>PETG has a glossy surface, adheres greatly to a print sheet, and <strong>does not shrink or warp</strong> (it has very little thermal expansion), therefore it’s suitable for printing large models. Plus, its high tenacity and flexibility often <strong>prevent it from breaking.</strong> Due to good temperature resistance, PETG parts are suitable both for interior and most exterior use (with temperatures below 80 °C). <strong>Parts of our printers are made of PETG!</strong></p>
<p>The letter G in PETG means that it’s modified with glycol during the manufacturing process. Glycol makes PET less brittle, easier to print, and more transparent for translucent prints. Of course, you can print also with PET filaments without glycol. However, printing with only PET is challenging and does not offer any advantage whatsoever.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Even though PETG in itself may be considered <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/food-safe-fdm-printing_112313">food-safe</a>, it consists of layers, as every 3D print, in which bacteria can grow over time. You can prevent this by applying a <strong>food-safe(epoxy) coating.</strong> Also, a stainless-steel nozzle should be used for if food is the intended application.</div>
<p>Although <strong>PETG</strong> is frequently used in <strong>food industry</strong> and is considered <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layer surface grooves that can support numerous bacterial colonies. But if you still want 3D printed dishes, we suggest <strong>applying a special layer</strong> that seals the surface (food-safe coating) and printing with a clean steel nozzle.</p>
<p>Some of the manufacturers <strong>enrich PETG with various additives</strong> and sell these materials under different names. For example, Spoolworks EDGE by E3D is modified PET/Copolyester Blend with additives. The goal is to acquire better visual qualities, surface and layer adhesion, etc.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
</div>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Possibility of stringing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good layer adhesion</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Poor bridging and overhangs</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Tough and durable</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Not great for printing detailed parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Bonds strongly to the print surface</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High temperature-resistance</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Soluble in dangerous chemicals</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Water and humidity resistant</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Supports are hard to remove</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>PETG is used universally but is especially suitable for mechanical parts for both indoor and outdoor use. We use PETG to print parts for our printers! Plastic bottles are also made from this kind of material.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Temperature settings and cooling</strong></p>
<p>Unlike PLA, <strong>PETG requires a heated bed (85 °C).</strong> Its bridging- and overhang-behavior is usually worse, plus it is prone to stringing. Stringing can be moderated with higher retractions and lower nozzle temperature, but we suggest <strong>using the PrusaSlicer profiles that should work fine.</strong> It’s important to <strong>cool the PETG print</strong> - this helps to keep the model detailed and prevents stringing and oozing. But if you want the model to be as tough as possible, try to turn off the print fan. Higher filament temperature improves merging between layers which leads to better mechanical resistance. Otherwise, we recommend printing the first few layers with the print fan off to prevent deformation, then with the fan running at half its power.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong!</div>
<p><strong>Print surface preparation</strong></p>
<p>Make sure the print surface is clean, as described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">our dedicated article</a>. It is advisable to use one of the <strong>powder-coated print sheets. Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong! If you decide to use the smooth PEI sheet anyway, apply a glue stick on it before printing.</p>
<p><strong>Adding more perimeters for more solid parts</strong></p>
<p>If you want to print truly solid parts, <strong>try to increase the number of perimeters</strong> instead of adding more infill.</p>
<h3>Postprocessing</h3>
<p>PETG can be easily sanded both dry and wet.</p>
<p><strong>Dissolving PETG</strong></p>
<p><strong>Dissolving and smoothing PETG</strong> is possible only in a laboratory by skilled lab workers using <strong>dangerous chemicals</strong> (Dichloromethane).</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>MMU (Multi-Material Unit)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronics cover and other printer parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Ukulele</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Various mechanical parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronic parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Boxes and organizers</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


PETG

Original Prusa i3 MK3S/MK3S+ to MK3.5S upgrade

Assembly manuals

Basic calibration

Advanced calibration

All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

Printer description

Printer features

FAQs and other useful information you might be interested in before or after making your purchase at shop.prusa3d.com

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

About your printer

3D models

Material guide

Printer maintenance

Prusa Connect & PrusaLink

In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

Using the printer

Print Quality Troubleshooting

QR Error codes

Printer troubleshooting

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

Troubleshooting

Nozzles

Octoprint

Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more.

3rd party accessories & Other projects

About PrusaSlicer

Configuration and profiles

User interface

Top toolbar

Print settings

Filament settings

Printer settings

Advanced features

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

1. Introduction

2. Parts check

3. Printer dissasembly

4. xBuddy assembly

5. xLCD & PSU assembly

6. Heatbed upgrade

7. Extruder & connectivity upgrade

8. Preflight check

Manual changelog MK3.5S upgrade

<p>The <a href="http://www.3dbenchy.com/">3DBenchy</a> is a 3D model designed by CreativeTools specifically for testing and benchmarking 3D printers. And everyone wants to know, how to print a perfect Benchy. Ever since it’s release, one specific problem seems to be present, in varying degrees of severity, in all of its prints - <strong>the infamous Benchy hull line</strong>.</p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;"><img decoding="async" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/hull_line-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/hull_line-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/hull_line-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/hull_line-800x533.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/hull_line.jpg" alt=""></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span>It’s visible on prints from all FFF <strong>printers</strong> on the market, cheap or expensive. It’s visible no matter the <strong>slicing software</strong>. It’s visible when printing from any <strong>material</strong>. It’s visible even in the Benchy <a href="https://youtu.be/_epwuDI9FBI">release video</a> from 2015. Again, in <strong>varying degrees of severity</strong> - with some combinations of printer, slicer, and material, it can be almost invisible. Other times, it’s clearly defined, leaving the user disappointed and confused. But once you see it, you’ll be able to find it on essentially all of its prints.</p>
<p>The good news is that <strong>we managed to mostly eliminate the Benchy hull line in our sample G-codes</strong> (not in 100% cases though, more on that later). You can <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3161-3d-benchy/files">download the G-code here</a>.</p>
<p>The bad news is that <strong>the fix isn’t universal</strong>.And we’re not even sure if such universal fix is physically possible to exist.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Benchy1_no_edits.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Benchy1_no_edits-300x208.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Benchy1_no_edits-578x400.jpg 578w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Benchy1_no_edits-768x532.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Benchy1_no_edits-800x554.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<p style="text-align: center;">New Benchy sample G-code printed on the MK3S</p>
<h3>A hardware problem?</h3>
<p>When you search for the problem online, you’ll often get an (incorrect) suggestion, that it might be a hardware problem. To give you an example, here are some of the suggestions we found online:</p>
<ul>
<li style="font-weight: 400;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-mk3-s_112380">loose belts</a></li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;">bent Z-axis rods</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;">irregularity in your z-axis lead screw at that height</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">If the problem is one thicker line or two thin lines at height of the Benchy’s deck, it’s most likely <strong>not a hardware problem</strong> with your printer. On the other hand, if you get uneven layers from top to bottom, it is most likely a hardware problem (which we’ll not discuss here).</div>
<h3>The culprit</h3>
<p>We believe that the main culprit is the sudden <strong>transition from sparse infill into full top layers</strong> around the 8 mm height (may vary a bit depending on your layer height and number of top layers).&nbsp;</p>
<p>At this point, there is an abrupt difference in the time a layer takes to print.</p>
<p>And a few layers later, another sudden change happens. When the deck is finished it’s no longer an almost solid layer, but just a few perimeters again.</p>
<p>Here are the factors that influence the severity of the Benchy hull line</p>
<ul>
<li style="font-weight: 400;">Filament material thermal expansion coefficient</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;">Print cooling</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;">Print environment</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;">Other filament properties - dryness, composition</li>
</ul>
<p>A seemingly similar, yet partly different problem is when printing boxes. They also tend to have a line at the height where the bottom solid layers transition into walls. This has more to do with thin walls, extrusion width, and the material has nowhere to go, but outside. Our slicer team knows about this problem and it's something that will likely improve in the future.</p>
<h3>Why can’t the slicer automatically detect and correct for this?</h3>
<p>It’s physics. Plastics, if extruded first from pellets into a filament, and then from filament into a very thin rectangular extrusion, will behave neither as a liquid nor as a solid. The stretching of the plastic will align the long molecular chains of the polymer, introducing internal stresses to the extrusion. This internal stress will pull the extrusion together if not cooled quickly enough. For example, on the MK2 the 3D Benchy has the line more pronounced on the side away from the cooling fan.&nbsp;</p>
<p>It depends on the <strong>environment</strong> too. Indeed, as many of you found out, in a cool basement the effects are more pronounced. The same G-code printed on the same printer with the same filament can have a Benchy hull line in one room and not in the other. It’s very difficult to automatically compensate for that.</p>
<p>And to compensate for the internal stresses and cooling effects of the filament. One of the reasons being the viscoelastic behavior of the molten plastics, and the dependence of the plastic behavior on its composition, temperature, hydrolysis of the polymer molecular chains. If the filament is not 100% dry (polyesters - PLA &amp; PET are sensitive to hydrolysis, hydrolyzed filament contains shorter polymer chains, thus being less viscous), the effectivity of the cooling, reflections of the cooling air from the already printed objects, etc.</p>
<h3>How did we modify the G-code to eliminate it?</h3>
<p>Something that helps, is to make a modifier mesh in the shape of the deck. When aligned at the problematic spot, it can be used to split the hull and the deck. They are then printed separately, plus the infill doesn’t fill the entire area all the way to the hull perimeters.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/benchy_modifier.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/benchy_modifier-300x110.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/benchy_modifier-600x220.png 600w" alt=""></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Then there’s the order of elements inside a layer. For some reason, we got better results when always printing the deck perimeters first, then infill of the deck and then the rest of the layer. We manually edited this order using a text editor.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">We’re not sure if it ended up helping, but we also manually edited the G-code in order to slightly lower the flow of solid infill, except for the very top layer (of the deck).</p>
<p>Another thing is to print the perimeters as continuously as possible. Rather than printing perimeters, then infill and then transitioning to the next layer it’s better to print two (or more) layers of perimeters one right after another. The printer then can go back and print the infill, again two layers at a time.</p>
<p>We most likely haven’t discovered all factors and in precisely what ratios they influence the severity of the Benchy hull line. Still, we wanted to share our findings. If you make your own research and tests, let us know of your findings.</p>


The Benchy hull line

<p>A 3D printer's hotend can get clogged. This article explains the most common causes of this issue, which are usually the same regardless of the printer type or model. We then have a separate article with tips on how to prevent the clog from forming in the first place.</p>
<h3>What does it look like</h3>
<p>The most obvious symptom is that the filament is <strong>not coming out of the nozzle</strong>. However, please note that the hotend can also be clogged only partially. <strong>Partial clogs</strong> usually reveal themselves <strong>mid-print</strong>, even after you were able to load or unload the filament.</p>
<p>Early signs of the nozzle starting to clog are:</p>
<ul>
<li>The filament is not extruded out of the nozzle consistently</li>
<li>Printed lines look much thinner and sometimes not sticking to the build plate.</li>
<li>The extruded filament is curling up and sticks to the nozzle when purged.</li>
</ul>
<p>Another common sign is that you can hear some <strong>clicking</strong> or ticking <strong>sounds from the extruder</strong>. The extruder clicking noise means that the stepper motor has to exert more force than a specific preset threshold and it's jumping back by one or more steps (skipping) to relieve the pressure.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="note-callout">It is important to know that having a <strong>clogged hotend is not the same thing as having a clogged nozzle</strong>. The clog might be located in the PTFE tube (inserted in the heatsink) or elsewhere, so <strong>changing the nozzle is not a universal solution to this problem</strong>.</div>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 400px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/p-1000825-e.png" data-hd-height="400px" data-hd-align="center"></td>
<td><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 330px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/clo.png" data-hd-height="330px" data-hd-align="center"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>How to fix it</h3>
<p>There are three main methods of dealing with this problem. To choose the right method, see whether or not it is possible to load/ unload the filament. Partial clogs can usually be melted or cold pulled, more complex clogs that prevent even loading of the filament call for the third method described below.</p>
<p>Before you begin with any of these methods, <strong>unload the filament</strong> and remove it from the extruder. To make the work easier, <strong>move the extruder head up 10-15 cm</strong> from the <em>LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Move axis -&gt; Move Z-axis</em>.</p>
<h4>Cold pull</h4>
<p>A cold pull is a good place to start if you experience a clog. If the filament can be loaded and unloaded without any problem, yet it still causes trouble during the print, clean the inside of your hotend using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3-s-mk2-5-s-mk3-5-s_2075">Cold pull (MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S, MK3.5/S)</a> technique.</p>
<h4>Force the clog out</h4>
<p>In case it is not possible to load the filament, try to soften the clog by increasing the nozzle temperature and then force it out. This is similar to the cold pull procedure.</p>
<p><strong>To avoid any complication, toggle the Filament autoload OFF in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; F. autoload,</em></strong> before proceeding<em>.</em></p>
<ol>
<li>Go to the&nbsp;<em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em>. Set the nozzle temperature to 260 °C if you have been using PLA or to 280 °C if you have been using PETG or ABS.</li>
<li>After the nozzle reaches the required temperature, wait for 2 minutes - the filament should start pouring/dripping out.</li>
<li>Push the <strong>bundled acupuncture needle</strong> (0,3 mm to 0,35 mm diameter) into the nozzle <strong>from below.</strong> Insert it 1-2 cm deep, to help clear the clog. <strong>Never feed it in from the top and do not load filament while the needle is inserted.</strong></li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout"><span data-hd-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)"><span data-hd-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)">Be careful not to touch the hot nozzle with your hand!</span></span></div>
<ol start="4">
<li>If that did not help, try using a 1.5 mm thick 100 mm long, straight, rigid metal wire: insert it into the hotend to see how far it can go and push on it, trying to force the filament down into the nozzle and then out. You can also use the smallest of the bundled Allen keys. It is not very long though, so remove the filament sensor cover to reach further.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">Be very careful when manipulating this wire, we don't want to damage the hobbed gears or the PTFE tube.</div>
<ol start="5">
<li>Load some PLA filament. The new string should push the rest of the stuck material from the nozzle.</li>
</ol>
<h4>Clean the hotend parts</h4>
<p>If you didn't succeed, it is important to determine where exactly is the clog located. As said earlier, a clogged hotend is not the same as a clogged nozzle: the material can be jammed even above it.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you did not succeed to force the clog out, at least you can now estimate where does the clog starts based on how deep did the wire goes.</div>
<p>Open the Extruder Idler door and check if you won't see a piece of the filament sticking out of the PTFE tube.</p>
<ul>
<li>If you have an MK2/S, unscrew <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/Pi51Q431dI24DKDR.jpg">both M3x40 screws</a> with springs, the door should then open by itself.</li>
<li>If you have an MK3 or an MK2.5, unscrew <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/pJ12NOO1UYDu2vej.jpg">both M3x40 screws</a> under the hexagonal window (they also have springs on them).</li>
<li>If you have an MK3S or an MK2.5S, unscrew the single <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/3mQKqKUUYTLfaxL3.jpg">M3x40 screw</a> (also with a spring).</li>
</ul>
<h4><strong>Filament stuck in the PTFE tube</strong></h4>
<p>If the filament is stuck in the white Teflon tube, you need to take the hotend out from the extruder. Use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-ptfe-tube-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_21664">this guide</a> to do so (steps 2 - 5). You will be left with the hotend exposed, hanging in front of you. Preheat it via <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperatures -&gt; Nozzle (260 °C if you have been using PLA or to 280 °C if you have been using PETG or ABS)</em> and see if you can remove the filament by pulling it up from the PTFE tube using pliers.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><span data-hd-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)"><span data-hd-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)">Be careful not to touch the hot metal parts!</span></span></div>
<p>Sometimes, it is necessary to remove the PTFE tube, in which case you need to push the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/YQ3xHHYCK3H3JXXa.jpg">black nylon collet</a> down towards the heatsink, in order to release it. While still pushing down on the collet, pull the PTFE tube out.</p>
<p>If the PTFE tube has been permanently damaged by the clog or in the process of removing it, <strong>you can purchase a new one</strong> in our online store (<a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3mk3s/929-hotend-ptfe-tube-mk25s-mk3s-mmu2s.html">MK3S, MK2.5S</a> or <a>MK2/S, MK3, MK2.5</a>). When you insert the new PTFE tube, make sure again it is properly secured by the collet: you need to pull the collet up about 1 mm while, at the same time, pushing the PTFE tube down. Doing this will ensure there is no play as <strong>the PTFE tube cannot move</strong> inside the hotend. <strong>Failure to secure the PTFE tube can cause clogging.</strong></p>
<h4><strong>Filament stuck inside the nozzle</strong></h4>
<p>If the PTFE tube is empty, some debris might be stuck in the nozzle. Unscrew it from the heater block (check <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/changing-or-replacing-the-nozzle-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-mk3-5-s_2069">this guide</a> to see how to do that). There are two ways to clean it: mechanically or using chemical solvents.</p>
<div class="note-callout">If your nozzle has seen a lot of use, and/or is old it might be better to just replace it.</div>
<ul>
<li>To clean the nozzle mechanically, once it is removed from the hotend, heat it up using a heat gun or possibly a hairdryer, and extract the stuck matter with needle-nose pliers or a pair of tweezers.</li>
<li>If you were using PLA or ABS, it is possible to clean the nozzle chemically. ABS dissolves in acetone and PLA in tetrahydrofuran or ethyl acetate. Immerse your nozzle into one of these substances for a couple of hours to overnight and then use the needle-nose pliers or a pair of tweezers to remove the gooey mass.</li>
</ul>
<h3>After resolving the clog</h3>
<h4>Clean the Bondtech gears</h4>
<p>If you have had a clog, they can also have collected residue grinding the filament which will, in turn, reduce their grabbing force on the filament. Make sure you clean this out. Open the idler door and clean out each groove of the gear using a toothpick or the acupuncture needle that came with the printer.</p>
<p>Cover the PTFE tube to avoid any debris falling in. You can use a cotton swab - it will reliably cover the tube without damaging it). After you're done cleaning, give it a good puff of air to clear any remains, while the PTFE tube is still covered.</p>
<h4>Calibration</h4>
<p>If you have changed the nozzle you should redo, at least, the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration</a>, as this may have changed with the new nozzle.</p>
<p>If you have disassembled and reassembled the extruder and/or hotend, we recommend going through the full XYZ calibration, followed by the First Layer Calibration.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/xyz-calibration-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_112351">XYZ Calibration (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/xyz-calibration-mk2-5-mk2-5s_199651">XYZ Calibration (MK2.5/MK2.5S)</a></li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">To <strong>prevent this problem from happening again,</strong> check out <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007">this article</a> to make sure you're doing everything correctly.</div>


Clogged nozzle/hotend (MK3.5/S, MK3S+, MK2.5S)

<p>Each Original Prusa printer is shipped with a bundle of sample G-codes. These G-codes are tested and tailored specifically for your printer model and can be used to see the printer's capabilities or troubleshoot.</p>
<p>Find your printer in the table and download the zip archive. The model geometry (.stl/.3mf) and the presliced version (.gcode) are included.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can find all our sample prints, including the printable parts of our printers, on our <a href="https://www.printables.com/@Prusa3D/collections/">Printables page</a>.</div>
<h2>Original Prusa FFF Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 639.687px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21.3333px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21.3333px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 21.3333px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21.3333px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left; height: 21.3333px;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8889px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 20.8889px;">CORE One</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 20.8889px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 20.8889px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/COREOne_Sample_Models.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 20.8889px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/COREOne_Sample_Gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MK4S/MK3.9S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4S-MK39S-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4S-MK3.9S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MK4/MK3.9</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4-MK39-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4-MK39-gcodes.zip">link</a>*</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 28.7986px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 28.7986px;">MK3.5/S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 28.7986px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 28.7986px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK35S_Sample_Models.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 28.7986px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3.5-S_Sample_Gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK3S+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK3S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MK3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MINI+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MINI</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">XL 1T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-1T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-1T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">XL 2T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-2T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-2T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">XL 5T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-5T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-5T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU3 &amp; MK4</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK4-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK4-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MMU3 &amp; MK4S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK4S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK4S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1111px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1111px;">MMU3 &amp; MK3S/+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1111px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1111px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK3S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1111px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK3S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU2S &amp; MK3S/+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MMU2S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MMU2S &amp; MK2.5S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK25S_MMU2S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU2 &amp; MK3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3_MMU2-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MMU2 &amp; MK2.5</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK25_MMU2-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU1 &amp; MK2</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU1-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK2MMU-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><em>*The archive includes G-codes for both MK4 and MK3.9 printers. G-codes are sliced for Input Shaper and older non-Input Shaper firmware. To print the Input Shaper G-codes, please make sure your printer is running <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">firmware 5.0.0 or newer</a>.</em></p>
<h2>Original Prusa SLA Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 73px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px;">Original Prusa SL1S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 21px;">MSLA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px;">Original Prusa SL1</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 21px;">MSLA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Prusa Pro FFF Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 31px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 10px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 10px;">Prusa Pro HT90</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 10px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 10px;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 10px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/HT90-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>


Sample G-codes

<p><strong>Layer shifting</strong> is a printing issue that causes the layers of the printed object to <strong>shift from their intended positions.</strong> It is usually associated with an abnormal movement of the X-axis and/or the Y-axis, leading the extruder head to be misaligned mid-printing. </p>
<p>In order to troubleshoot the issue correctly, it is crucial to recognize in which axis the layers shifted. See the three photos below demonstrating three different kinds of layer shifts. Troubleshooting is the same for both axes. </p>
<p>Layer shifts are most often caused by the wrong tension of the belts or pulleys not being secure. </p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/x-axis.jpg" alt="" width="395" height="222" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/y-axis-jpg" alt="" width="395" height="264" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 400px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/staircase-jpg" width="600" data-hd-height="400px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<h3>Original Prusa MK-series</h3>
<h4>Check your printer’s power mode</h4>
<p>Run the printer in <strong>normal mode</strong> rather than in the <strong>stealth mode</strong>. You can change the <strong>power mode</strong> in <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings. </em></p>
<p>The stealth mode is perfect for small and simple objects. For bigger or more complex prints, the normal mode is recommended. Also, note that in stealth mode, the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/crash-detection_2100">Crash detection</a> feature is not available. </p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/2019-03-27-18-21-09-tiskov-chyby-update-1-google-docs.jpg" alt="" width="395" height="123" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/51651372bb4e202388cfbe608416a5ae.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Layer shifting REVIEW (XL, MK4)" alt="" width="395" height="263" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK3/S/+</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Make sure the extruder and the heatbed can move freely</h4>
<p>Make sure there are <strong>no obstructions</strong> in the path of the extruder or heatbed and their bearings. For example, there might be a piece of filament stuck around the belt (usually around the Y-axis pulley) from your previous prints. </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pulley-obstruction.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pulley-obstruction-300x162.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pulley-obstruction-600x324.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pulley-obstruction-768x415.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pulley-obstruction-800x432.jpg 800w" alt="pulley obstruction" width="654" height="354" loading="lazy" /><em>Picture taken on an MK3/S/+</em></p>
<p>Another instance of obstruction is when the zip ties, or other parts of the extruder cable bundle, are not optimally positioned as indicated in their respective <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/attachment/ltlznibfugnpwtwy-jpg_272">assembly guide</a>. If the cables hit the frame before the extruder assembly (MK3 and higher) or before the X end-stop (on MK2/S or MK2.5) the printer detects an inaccurate end position. See the photo below and make sure the cables are arranged accordingly. </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ziptie.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ziptie-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ziptie-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ziptie-768x576.jpg 768w" alt="ziptie" width="656" height="492" loading="lazy" /><em>Picture taken on MK3, the same principles apply on other MK-series printers.</em></p>
<p>Verify if the smooth rods don't bear any deep scratches and if the bearings are properly lubricated. Clean the smooth rods with a clean paper towel before applying lubricant. </p>
<p>The optimal lubricant is our <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-lubricant-applicator-set-5g/">Prusa Lubricant</a>. A lithium-based, general-purpose <strong>grease</strong> also works well. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/smoothrods.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/smoothrods-300x87.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/smoothrods-600x173.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/smoothrods-768x222.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/smoothrods-800x231.jpg 800w" alt="smooth rods" /></p>
<h4><strong>Check your X/Y axis motors and pulleys</strong></h4>
<p>Make sure the X and Y <strong>motors</strong> are tightened in the motor mount, that the <span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>pulley</strong></span> is secured on the motor shaft and aligned with the pulley on the opposite end, and that the pulley can move freely. <strong>Both grub screws</strong> need to be tight, <strong>one of them has to be tightened against the flat part of the motor shaft.</strong> A loose or misaligned pulley is usually the main cause of staircase layer shifts.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/motor-shaft.png" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p>Both pulleys on both axes also have to be <strong>aligned</strong>, meaning the motor pulley has to be well <strong>centered and the belt has to be moving in a straight line,</strong> not traveling from right to left while the pulley is turning.</p>
<h4><strong>Check the tension of your belts</strong></h4>
<p>Check your <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-mk3-s_112380">belt tension</a>.</p>
<p>On MK-series printers, a quick way to check it is using our <a href="https://belt.connect.prusa3d.com/">belt tuner</a>, with the instructions in the video below.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oeq2MVxE_H8" width="560" height="314" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" loading="lazy"></iframe></p>
<p>On MK3/S/+, it is possible to check the <strong>Belt Status</strong> numbers via <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Support -&gt; Belt Status</em>. </p>
<p><span style="color: #000000;">While there is not a precise ideal value, from our experience, the best approximate value is around 250 on the X-axis, and 275 on the Y-axis, with an optimal range at +-15 from these values on either axis. </span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000000;">The value does not represent a physical quantity, but an arbitrary number inversely proportional to the motor load. The values are with the consideration that the assembly is good and that the parts are in good condition and properly lubricated. Values may not be accurate if there are other problems. </span></p>
<ul>
<li>If your value is <strong>under</strong> (or close to) 240, you need to <strong>loosen</strong> the belt</li>
<li>If your value is <strong>over</strong> (or close to) 290, you need to <strong>tighten</strong> the belt</li>
<li>The values are updated every time you run the Selftest or run the belt test in <em>LCD menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Belt test</em>. </li>
</ul>
<p><span style="color: #000000;">Other MK-series models</span> do not have the belt status option. The clue we can give you is that the belt should sound roughly like a low bass string when plucked. It should be possible to pinch the two sides together with your thumb and index finger, but you should feel a little bit of resistance.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">The plastic parts holding the belts can get loose over time.</div>
<p>Use the following technique to test if the pulley is correctly tightened and if the belt is not too loose. Hold the X-axis motor shaft with pliers (take advantage of the flat part of the shaft) and try to move with the extruder. The same procedure can be applied to test the Y-axis pulley and belt. There should be no slack from the belt or any axis movement during the procedure, if there is, then the belt is too loose. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/2019-08-21-16-07-05-f-jmg-pa-bdtv-ruqf-11-full-1600-1200.jpg" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<h3>Original Prusa MINI/+</h3>
<p><strong>Check your printer’s speed.</strong> </p>
<p>When printing large objects, it’s recommended to decrease the printing speed. During a print, go to <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Tune -&gt; Speed</em> and decrease the number.</p>
<p><strong>Check the X/Y belts. </strong> </p>
<p>Make sure that belts are properly tightened. A quick to check this aspect is using our <a href="https://belt.connect.prusa3d.com/">belt tuner</a>, with the instructions in the video below. </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oeq2MVxE_H8" width="560" height="314" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" loading="lazy"></iframe></p>
<p>Belts should be tight enough to sound like a low bass note when plucked. If the belts are loose, tighten them first: first, loosen the two screws as depicted below. Then, tighten the two screws at the very end of the X-axis. They go directly against the metal rods, so the more tightened they are, the further you move the plastic part. Once you are done, tighten the first two screws again to fix the part in place.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/tighten_belts-1024x435.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/tighten_belts-1024x435-300x127.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/tighten_belts-1024x435-600x255.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/tighten_belts-1024x435-768x326.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/tighten_belts-1024x435-800x340.jpg 800w" alt="" width="1024" height="435" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p><strong>Check X/Y axis pulleys. </strong></p>
<p>Both pulleys on both axes also have to be aligned, meaning the motor pulley has to be well centered and the belt should be perfectly straight. Check whether the X-axis belt is not brushing against printed parts.</p>
<p>Make sure <strong>nothing is blocking the movement of your axis</strong> – Check for any obstructions in the path of the bearings or any possible waste from previous printings stuck around the belt (usually around the Y-axis pulley).</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirt_in_Y-1024x614.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirt_in_Y-1024x614-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirt_in_Y-1024x614-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirt_in_Y-1024x614-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirt_in_Y-1024x614-800x480.jpg 800w" alt="" width="750" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Loose X/Y-axis belt pulley</h4>
<p><strong>If the set-screw on the belt pulley has come loose or it was not secured on the flat side of the motor shaft, it can slip and may cause issues with the axis not moving perfectly in tandem with the motor's rotation.</strong></p>
<p>The set-screw for the Y-axis is easily accessed, being under the bed, but the X-axis is a bit more tricky. You can access the set-screw for the X-axis through a hole on the top of the extruder (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">picture below</span>). You will not be able to see if the set screw is aligned with the flat side of the motor-rod and <strong>tightening it will only be a temporary fix</strong>, but it is a great way of knowing if this is the issue and what needs to be disassembled.</p>
<p>If you only see shiny metal in the hole, you must rotate the motor to reveal the set-screw. Even it is loose, it will move a little with the rotation of the motor, revealing the screw. Access <em>Settings -&gt; Move Axis -&gt; Move X</em>, on the LCD-menu, and <strong>rotate the knob to spin the motor</strong>.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 100%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/c8dec273f5fe6eb5_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/c8dec273f5fe6eb5_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/c8dec273f5fe6eb5_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/c8dec273f5fe6eb5_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/c8dec273f5fe6eb5_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/c8dec273f5fe6eb5_painted-1536x1536.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="400" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 100%; text-align: center;">Use a 2 mm Allen key to tighten the set-screw of the pulleys.</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Free movement of the axis</h4>
<p>Make sure the print head (the part moving along the X-axis) can move freely in the entire range. Especially the cable bundle attached to the extruder should not prevent the print head from reaching the end of the axis.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/x-axis_movement-1024x437.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/x-axis_movement-1024x437-300x128.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/x-axis_movement-1024x437-600x256.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/x-axis_movement-1024x437-768x328.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/x-axis_movement-1024x437-800x341.jpg 800w" alt="" width="1024" height="437" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Also,<strong> verify if the smooth rods are not scratched and if the bearings are properly lubricated</strong>. Clean the smooth rods with a clean paper towel before applying lubricant. </p>
<p>The optimal lubricant is our <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-lubricant-applicator-set-5g/">Prusa Lubricant</a>. A lithium-based, general-purpose <strong>grease</strong> also works well. </p>
<h3>Original Prusa XL</h3>
<h4>Belt tension</h4>
<p>Using the guidelines in the dedicated article, check the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-xl_401793">belt tension</a>. </p>
<p>Ensure that the belt clamps are in good visible status. To access them, <span style="color: #000000;">remove the front cover</span> and check the clamps for visual damage. </p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none; height: 320.25px;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 299.361px;">
<td style="width: 48.8562%; height: 299.361px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/a7d5edec2785a836_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%; height: 299.361px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/03f1d59501e2bdd2de919953d8477b44_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8889px;">
<td style="width: 48.8562%; text-align: center; height: 20.8889px;"><em>Single-tool XL</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%; text-align: center; height: 20.8889px;"><em>Multi-tool XL</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/b44ebe0d9b0cb0857164cae5bcae0532_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Layer shifting REVIEW (XL, MK4)" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>XY motor pulleys</h4>
<p>Though rare, if one of the motor pulleys loosens over time it will misalign and contribute to inconsistent movement. The pulleys are positioned differently on each of the two XY motors.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Left<br /></strong>
<ul>
<li>Note the orientation of the pulley. The teeth for the belt are <strong>below </strong>the <span style="color: #169179;"><strong>set screws</strong></span>.</li>
<li>The pulley is <span style="color: #843fa1;"><strong>2.5mm higher than the start of the flat part of the motor shaft</strong></span>. Use the 2.5mm Allen key for reference.</li>
<li>Alternatively, <span style="color: #236fa1;"><strong>measure the distance between the beginning of the motor shaft and the pulley</strong></span>, 3.6mm.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Right</strong>
<ul>
<li>Note the orientation of the pulley. The teeth for the belt are <strong>above </strong>the <span style="color: #169179;"><strong>set screws</strong></span>.</li>
<li>The pulley is <span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong>flush with the top edge of the motor shaft</strong></span>.</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/1d38d986578f927a292af40736078b32_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/35de8c3be98fcfb6eb1cf032a8c89ff6_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3><strong>Print geometry and settings</strong></h3>
<p>Objects with <strong>overhangs</strong> are generally harder to print. Some overhangs might even warp upwards during the print, and the nozzle might crash into them. The same can happen in some cases if you choose a <strong>very small infill percentage</strong> when slicing the 3D model.</p>
<p>To prevent printing overhangs, you can cut the object (check out our article on the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cut-tool_1779">Cut tool</a>). You can also try to increase the <span style="color: #169179;"><strong>print fan speed</strong></span> or increase the retraction length in PrusaSlicer. Print fan speed is found in <em>Filament settings -&gt; Cooling</em> and retraction length in <em>Printer Settings -&gt; Extruder 1.</em></p>
<p>screenshots</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/8126824a2ef39ad4_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="386" loading="lazy" /></p>

Layer shifting

<p>As there are ways of remotely transferring files and starting prints, an SD card or USB flash drive is the most common and reliable way to get your files to your machine. Though common and convenient, flash memory is not the most reliable in itself and your storage can be corrupted or fill up without any obvious signs. Therefore, we have put together a small guide on how to maintain, format, and purchase memory for your Original Prusa printer.</p>
<h3>Make sure your SD card is not locked!</h3>
<p>The SD card has a latch on the side. Before using your SD card, make sure that the latch is not set to the Locked position. In case it is locked, you will not be able to save files on the card, and the printer will not be able to open the SD card.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01-300x293.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01-410x400.jpg 410w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h3>Storage over 32 GB</h3>
<p>There is no upper size limit on compatible storage media, but <strong>the built-in Windows formatting tool does not support formatting storage media from a size of 32 GB or more to FAT32.</strong> It will only provide the option for exFAT, which is currently not supported by our printers. There are similar limitations under various versions of Apple's OSx, where a third-party application must be used to format it correctly.</p>
<p>To format such a drive you need a third-party application, like Rufus, FAT32 format, or EaseUS Partition Master. <strong>Be careful when using such programs</strong> so you do not <strong>accidentally format the wrong storage media</strong>, like your hard drive. However, 8-16 GB is more than enough for most use cases, as a G-code file rarely exceeds 100 MB.</p>
<h3>How do I format the USB drive/SD card?</h3>
<p>If your SD card or USB drive is full or if you can't read the content of the drive, but the drive is recognized by windows, most often all you need to do is to format the drive.</p>
<div class="note-callout">If your USB drive or SD card does not even show up in your computer file explorer it is probably corrupted beyond repair, or at least beyond the scale of this article. If you get an error like the one in the picture below and it does not show up anywhere, off to google you go, but you might have to consider this card/USB drive lost and get a new one.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-800x317.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-768x304.jpg 768w" alt="" width="631" height="250"></p>
<h3>How to format on Windows</h3>
<p>On Windows, this is very simple. Locate your USB drive or SD card in my computer, right-click, and choose format.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-300x288.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-417x400.png 417w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-768x737.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-625x600.png 625w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<p>A new small window will pop up. Most of the time you can simply leave everything to default, but the most important thing is that the <strong>File System is set to FAT32.</strong> This and the Volume Label (Name of the drive) is the only thing you want to touch here. Click Start and your drive will be formatted in a matter of seconds.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Formatting any drive will delete all the content of the drive! Back up your stuff!</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04-166x300.png 166w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04-222x400.png 222w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04.png" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="note-callout">If the USB stick will not work even after this procedure, it is either broken or its "partitioning scheme" is set as GPT, which is incorrect. <strong>It must be set as MBR (Master Boot Record).</strong> For how to change this, please see <a href="https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-server/storage/disk-management/change-a-gpt-disk-into-an-mbr-disk">Microsoft's official documentation</a>.</div>
<h3>How to format on Mac</h3>
<p>On Mac, it is a few more steps, but still very accessible. Again, you want to choose <strong>FAT32 as your file system</strong>, but you also have the option of changing the "partitioning scheme", which <strong>should always be MBR (Master Boot Record).</strong></p>
<div class="warning-callout">This process deletes all content from the drive.</div>
<ol>
<li>Plug the USB drive or SD card into your Mac.</li>
<li>Go to <em>Applications -&gt; Utilities</em> and launch <em>Disk Utility.</em></li>
<li>Click on the icon in the top-left (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrow</span>) and select "Show All Devices" from the drop-down menu.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-600x271.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-800x361.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-300x135.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-768x347.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-1536x693.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="226"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="4">
<li>Right-click on the USB drive/SD card in the sidebar under "External". <em>Select the top entry for your drive, not a partition located below.</em></li>
<li>Select Erase in the Disk Utility-toolbar (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrow</span>).</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-600x271.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-800x361.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-300x135.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-768x347.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-1536x693.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="226"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="6">
<li>Enter a name for the formatted disk.</li>
<li>Click on the Format menu and choose MS-DOS (FAT).</li>
<li>Make sure the Scheme is set to "Master Boot Record".</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-600x301.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-800x401.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-300x150.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-768x385.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-1536x771.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-2048x1027.png 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="251"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="9">
<li>Click Erase.</li>
<li>Your USB drive will now be erased and re-formatted correctly.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">If your SD card is not detected by the printer at all, be sure to check out <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sd-card-not-working_2095">SD card not working</a> for further information.</div>

SD cards and USB drives

<p>Filament grinding, which is accompanied by a “clicking” or "squeaking " sound coming from the extruder, usually happens when the extruder gears are unable to push the filament further towards the nozzle. Over time, the gears grind away the filament, until they can’t grab it anymore.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you have questions or issues regarding <strong>vibration noises</strong> from the printer, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/vibration-when-printing-mk3s-mk2-5s_2177">Vibration when printing (MK3S+/MK2.5S)</a>.</div>
<p>The clicking sound means that the stepper motor is having to suddenly exert more force than a specific preset threshold and it's jumping back by one or more steps (skipping) to relieve the pressure. It can be a mechanical issue, electrical issue, software issue, jammed/clogged hotend, or a combination of this.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">First, you need to remove the filament from the extruder. If the filament has been ground through and can not be unloaded from the LCD menu, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/removing-filament-from-extruder-manually_121491">follow this guide to manually remove it.</a></div>
<h2>Possible causes</h2>
<h3>Slicing</h3>
<p>Slice the model again using the&nbsp;<strong>latest version of PrusaSlicer and its filament presets</strong>. Also, see if the 3D model is not corrupted or incomplete.</p>
<p>Try to increase the <strong>hotend temperature</strong> (Filament settings -&gt; Filament -&gt; Temperature °C) <strong>by 5 - 15</strong> °C. It is important to make sure the temperature is corrected for the filament being printed. You can check our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">Extensive Material table</a> to confirm your settings.</p>
<h3>First Layer calibration</h3>
<p>Having the first layer calibration set too close can eventually cause a clogged hotend. Make sure you have it set just right, as instructed in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-mini-mini_229122">First Layer Calibration (MINI/MINI+)</a>.</p>
<h3>Idler tension</h3>
<p>Make sure that your extruder idler is properly tightened. If the extruder idler screws are overtightened, the gears will not push the filament properly. Try to loosen (or tighten) the&nbsp;<strong>extruder idler screw(s)</strong> (with the spring). Their tension must be accurate (neither too tight nor too loose). Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/idler-screw-tension_177367">Idler screw tension</a> for how it should be on your printer.</p>
<h3>Drive gears alignment</h3>
<p>Double-check the <strong>alignment</strong> of both extruder gears. Both of them must be aligned with the opening above and with the PTFE tube below so that they can properly feed the filament into the hotend. Make sure the gear on the extruder motor shaft is tightened by its grub screw against the flat part of the motor axis.</p>
<p>Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/checking-re-aligning-the-bondtech-gear-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_133176">Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear (MK3.5/S, MK3S/+, MK2.5S)</a> for more information regarding the MK2.5/S and MK3/S/+ or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-access-and-clean-the-extruder-pulley-mini-mini_126457">this article for the Original Prusa MINI/MINI+</a>.</p>
<h3>Dirty extruder gears</h3>
<ul>
<li>Make sure that your extruder gears are clear of any leftover plastic. You can clear the plastic with a sharp corner of pliers or with a durable pin.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Make sure the gears are turning freely</li>
<li>Check if the motor gear is aligned and tightened with the grub screw against the flat part of the motor axis</li>
</ul>
<p>Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/checking-re-aligning-the-bondtech-gear-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_133176">Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear (MK3.5/S, MK3S/+, MK2.5S)</a> for more information regarding the MK2.5/S and MK3/S/+ or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-access-and-clean-the-extruder-pulley-mini-mini_126457">this article for the Original Prusa MINI/MINI+</a>.</p>
<h3>Jammed PTFE tube</h3>
<p>While checking the extruder gears, take a look at the PTFE tube as well and make sure there is no debris in it that would prevent the filament from being loaded properly. To inspect the PTFE tube, open the extruder idler door. For more information, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/removing-filament-from-extruder-manually_121491">Removing filament from extruder manually</a>.</p>
<h3>Hotend assembly</h3>
<p>Verify, whether the&nbsp;<strong>nozzle is properly assembled</strong>&nbsp;into the heater block:&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li>See if the heater block and the nozzle are not crooked.</li>
<li>Is there a space of 0.5 mm (0.02 inch) between the nozzle head and the heater block as it should be?</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted.png" alt="" width="500" height="227"></p>
<div class="tip-callout">Check <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007">Under-extrusion</a> where we go through all the usual causes of extrusion-related problems.</div>
<h3>Clogged hotend</h3>
<p>Please follow <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">this article</a> to clean your hotend, as the hotend might be clogged. If you don't manage to clean the clog, you would have to <strong>take out the hotend</strong>&nbsp;from the extruder, disassemble it completely, clean it thoroughly and apply some<strong>&nbsp;extra thermal paste</strong> on the heatbreak before assembling the hotend back together.</p>
<div class="note-callout">If you need to change one of the components of your hotend, refer to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbreak-heatsink-heaterblock-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_16104">this guide</a> (for MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S. For MK3/MK2.5, there is a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbreak-heaterblock-heatsink-mk3-mk2-5_14944">separate guide</a>).</div>


Extruder noises

<p>You can recognize under extrusion when there is material missing in your print’s layers. Printed objects with under extruded layers can be fragile and tend to break apart. There could be several causes to under-extrusion and you should also think if you recently did any changes to your printer (or perhaps no maintenance for a long period), as you might find the culprit there.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/underextrusion.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="261">Example of severe under extrusion (left cube) and a normal print (right cube).</em></p>
<p><strong>Common factors in under extru</strong><strong>sions are:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007#first-layer-calibration-too-close">First layer calibration too close</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007#slicer-settings">Slicer settings</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007#nozzle">Nozzle</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007#extruder-gears">Extruder gears</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007#insufficient-hotend-cooling">Insufficient hotend cooling</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007#filament">Filament</a></li>
</ul>
<h3>First layer calibration too close</h3>
<p>Make sure you have performed the First Layer Calibration correctly. Avoid compensating for a lack of adhesion by squishing the first layer too much. If the nozzle is too close to the build plate, the filament can be obstructed from pushing through. We recommend running the first layer calibration every time you move the printer to a different location or do maintenance on the hotend, like changing the nozzle. Moreover, when you swap the steel sheet from the textured one to the smooth one you must recalibrate due to the sheet's different thickness. That is why we introduced the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</p>
<h3>Slicer settings</h3>
<p>Each profile in the PrusaSlicer contains settings that determine temperature, speeds, and how much filament the 3D printer should extrude. The printer does not provide any feedback on how much filament actually leaves the nozzle. It can be that less filament is extruded than the firmware expects. If that happens, you may notice gaps in and/or in between printed layers.</p>
<p>Make sure you have set up your printer in PrusaSlicer by running the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/configuration-wizard_1754">Configuration Wizard</a> and as a starting point you should use the stock filament profiles which are tailored for your machine, filament type, and nozzle size.</p>
<h3>Nozzle</h3>
<p>If you had the nozzle removed from the hotend at some point, make sure it has been correctly reinstalled. Please see the dedicated guide for your hotend:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/changing-or-replacing-the-nozzle-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-mk3-5-s_2069">Changing or replacing the nozzle (MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+, MK3.5/S)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/changing-replacing-the-nozzle-mini_134235">Changing/replacing the nozzle (MINI)</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Incorrect installation can cause both clogging and leaks. The nozzle must be tightened when heated and there must be a gap between the nozzle and the heater block. Also, inspect the extruder and hotend for any damage, like the heater element or thermistor's wires or a bent heatbreak (only on V6 hotend).</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted.png" alt="" width="600" height="272"></p>
<div class="tip-callout">If the installation of the nozzle is correct, then <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3-s-mk2-5-s-mk3-5-s_2075">performing a <strong>Cold pull</a></strong> will often resolve a clog.</div>
<h4>Using specialty nozzles</h4>
<p>If you are using specialty nozzles like hardened steel or stainless steel, etc., you may have to increase the nozzle temperature when printing, usually within a range of 5-10 °C. Steel has different thermal properties compared to a brass nozzle, which can affect print results, mainly the inter-layer adhesion. But remember that higher temperatures can also lead to increased stringing. If the issue persists, try replacing the nozzle with the original 0.4mm brass nozzle and see if it makes a difference.</p>
<p>Furthermore, not all nozzle sizes will be suitable for all filaments. Filament that contains particles of wood or metal will most often be unsuitable for nozzles with a diameter below 0.4, and some will require an even larger nozzle, like 0.6 mm or 0.8 mm. For more information, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193">Different nozzle types</a>.</p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>A 0.1 mm nozzle can be considered experimental</strong>; Its small diameter will not work with all filaments, the tolerances required in its manufacturing are hard to guarantee and the excessive printing time it requires can be beyond reasonable. For these fine resolutions, you may want to consider SLA printing.</div>
<h3>Extruder gears</h3>
<p>Check both Bondtech gears for any dirt or misalignment so they are able to push filament through. Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/checking-re-aligning-the-bondtech-gear-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_133176">Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear (MK3S/MK2.5S)</a> for details.</p>
<p>Additionally, make sure that your printer’s <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/idler-screw-tension_177367">extruder idler is at the correct tension</a>. Having the idler screw too loose or too tight can cause under extrusion.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 299.312px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 299.312px;">
<td style="width: 48.799%; height: 299.312px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/57870166b3e92638_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/57870166b3e92638_painted-534x400.jpeg 534w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/57870166b3e92638_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/57870166b3e92638_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/57870166b3e92638_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/57870166b3e92638_painted-1536x1151.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/57870166b3e92638_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
<td style="width: 48.799%; vertical-align: top; height: 299.312px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/ee967edc46e92f22_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Insufficient hotend cooling</h3>
<p>Controlling the "melt-zone" of the filament is very important. With insufficient cooling, the filament can start melting too far away from the nozzle. Check that your extruder fan is installed in the correct orientation and whether the fan is blocked by a piece of filament or some other debris.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Unless you have turned off "Fan check", the printer will give an error if it detects if either fan is not spinning when it should (<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/hotend-fan-is-not-spinning_2084">hotend fan</a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/print-fan-is-not-spinning_2081">print fan</a>).</div>
<p>If you are using your printer in an enclosure, make sure the temperature inside is not too hot, as overheating can result in Heat creep, where the filament will start melting before it reaches the nozzle</p>
<p><em><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/faultyfan.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="338"></em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of a blocked fan by a strand of filament.</em></p>
<div class="tip-callout">The hotend fan will always spin if the nozzle is heated above 50 °C.</div>
<h3>Filament</h3>
<p>Too low or too high printing temperature can cause print issues as well. If your filament brand and type is not listed in PrusaSlicer, you can try to adjust the print temperature by +/- 5-15°C to see if this resolves the issue.</p>
<p>Some specialty materials, like <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-materials_2057">Flexible materials</a>, may require many adjustments and tweaks to print them successfully. <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/composite-materials-filled-with-carbon-kevlar-or-glass_167387">Composite materials</a>, like Woodfill filament, may require at minimum a 0.6 mm nozzle, and 0.2 mm layer height to prevent clogging. If there are composite materials like kevlar or carbon fiber, a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#hardened-steel-nozzle-by-e3d">hardened nozzle is required</a>.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Be sure to see <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">our extensive material table</a>, where most types of filament and their considerations are covered.</div>
<p>Some filaments can also have a varying thickness, due to quality or infused materials like wood, which will cause unexpected changes in the volume of extruded filament. The industry standard of variations in diameter is +/- 0.05 mm.</p>
<p>Keep your filament dry, free of moisture because damp filaments have a negative impact on printing, especially soluble filament, PETG, and ABS. We highly recommend putting spools back inside their original bag when it’s not in use, along with a silica gel. We recommend storing your filaments in a dry area or ideally in a “dry box”.</p>
<h4>Incorrect loading/unloading</h4>
<p>When loading a new filament with a lower specified temperature, preheat the nozzle to the temperature required by the previous filament type you have used. In other words, always the highest temperature filament, as its remnants are most likely still in the hotend. For example, <strong>if you have printed with ABS or PETG and want to print with PLA now, load the PLA filament at the ABS or PETG temperature.</strong> This way, the newly introduced filament can push the old one out.</p>


Under-extrusion

<p>The blob (mass of plastic accumulated around the hotend) is one of the most scary-looking printing problems you might face with your 3D printer. Removing it after it happens is quite tricky, though not impossible.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Please note that damage caused by the blob is <strong>not covered by the warranty</strong> as it is neither hardware nor software related. It can be prevented by properly calibrating the printer as well as by stopping the print as soon as the filament starts to stick to the nozzle.<br />See the <strong>Safety Instructions</strong> on the 3D Printing Handbook bundled with each of our printers. <strong>Do not leave the printer unattended while it's switched on.</strong></div>
<p>We prepared a short video on how to remove an extruder blob. The video features our Original Prusa MK3, but the same principles of heating the filament blob in order to soften it and carefully removing it with pliers <strong>apply to all our FDM printer models.</strong> </p>
<h3>How to clear the extruder blob</h3>
<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mSmJKjibMT0" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" loading="lazy"></iframe></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Before doing anything, please note that the cables of the hotend thermistor and the heater cartridge are most likely entangled in the blob. The heater cartridge cable in particular is very vulnerable as <strong>its insulation ends before the wire enters the cartridge body. </strong></div>
<ol>
<li>Preheat the nozzle in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings/Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em>. The temperature needs to be approximately 30°C higher than the temperature at which the blob has formed. For example, if the blob is made of:
<ul style="list-style-type: square;">
<li><strong>PLA: </strong>preheat to 250<strong>°</strong>C</li>
<li><strong>ABS/PETG:</strong> preheat to 280<strong>°</strong>C</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">On MK3/S/+, it is also possible to preheat the printer through the <em>Preheat</em> menu, but note that a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/thermal-model-calibration_382488">Thermal anomaly error</a> might happen.</div>
<ol>
<li>If <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/mintemp-error-and-mintemp-bed_2169">MINTEMP</a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/preheat-error_2163">Preheat error</a> message appears on the LCD, it means the thermistor or the heater cable (respectively) is already broken. In this case, your only option is to use a heat gun to heat the plastic. Work very carefully, you don't want to melt the printed parts surrounding the hotend. Clear the blob little by little.</li>
<li>After the hotend reaches the right temperature, leave it this way for at least 5 minutes. <strong><em>Turn the printer off before the next step, or you might cause an electrical short.<br /></em></strong></li>
<li>Smaller blobs will start to fall off by themselves. As for the bigger ones, use a pair of pliers to remove the now soft plastic mass from the hotend carefully. Again, be very cautious around the leads coming from the hot end, in particular, the thermistor leads.<em><strong><br /></strong></em></li>
<li>Once the big chunks of the amassed plastic are removed, use a small brass brush to get rid of what's left (as shown in the video above).</li>
<li>In case you do not succeed, as well as in case the blob has damaged some of the extruder parts, you can find your spare parts <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/18-spare-parts">here</a>. To see the spare parts section, you have to be logged into the account you used to purchase the printer.</li>
</ol>
<h3><strong>How to prevent this problem from happening</strong></h3>
<p>Unlike the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/spaghetti-monster_1999">Spaghetti monster</a> issue, the blob issue often occurs early during the print. In general, the blob forms if the first layer detaches from the print surface and sticks to the moving hot nozzle while it keeps extruding, causing the blob to grow.</p>
<p>In order to prevent this situation from happening, bear in mind these simple rules:</p>
<ul>
<li>Always make sure to <strong>clean the print surface</strong> before starting the print. See <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804"><u>this guide</u></a> for more details.</li>
<li>Take the time to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364"><u>adjust the first layer height</u></a> at the beginning of the print. Make sure that the first layer is sticking properly to the entire print surface.
<div class="tip-callout">This step does not apply to Original Prusa MK4, MK3.9, XL, as they are equipped with <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/loadcell-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-xl_401253">loadcell</a>, although minor first layer adjustment is still possible on these printers. </div>
</li>
<li><strong>Check the print every now and then.</strong> If you observe any potential problem, pause the print and give yourself the time to solve it. As a last resort, you can always stop the print, adjust the settings, and start again.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Silicone sock</h3>
<p>Consider installing a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/nextruder-silicone-sock-xl-mk4-mk3-9_641415">silicone sock</a>. This is <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-nextruder-silicone-sock-set/">available in our shop</a> for <strong>MK4/S</strong>, <strong>MK3.9/S</strong>, and <strong>XL</strong>. Although the component does not prevent extruder blobs, in case this occurs, it makes it easier to remove it. </p>


Extruder blob

<p>When printing large objects, you can sometimes run into an issue with the corners of the object being lifted from the bed – mostly when printing with high-temperature materials such as PC Blend, ASA or ABS. It’s usually a result of a sudden temperature difference between the melting temperature of the nozzle and the ambient temperature. When this happens, the plastic will shrink and warp. Our goal is to minimize the thermal shock the printed part receives so it doesn't warp as much. Less warping also means less residual tension and a stronger part.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Adding a layer of glue stick, applied thinly on the steel sheet when cold, can both help adhesion and act as a separation layer, protecting the sheet from wear and tear.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/warping.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/warping-300x175.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/warping-600x351.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/warping-768x449.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/warping-800x468.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<div class="tip-callout">Each material requires a different technique to prevent the lifting of the object. Different geometries may also need different approaches. Be sure to check our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">extensive material table</a> for more information.</div>
<h3>Troubleshooting</h3>
<ul>
<li>Use PrusaSlicer profiles – Make sure you are starting off by using corresponding default profiles in PrusaSlicer. You may save yourself a lot of hassle with figuring out the ideal settings yourself. Profiles are already refined for each material.</li>
<li><strong>Keep the surface free of grease</strong> – Before starting any of your prints, simply wipe the print surface clean with IPA 90%+. A complete guide on how to prepare the print surface can be found at <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">First layer issues</a>.</li>
<li><strong>Lower the Live Adjust Z</strong> slightly to increase bed adhesion. But not too much. Do not over-squish the first layer. Be aware the bed adhesion might be too high with PETG or PC and might result in a damaged PEI surface.</li>
<li><strong>Print cooling. </strong> Some materials such as PLA or PETG need a lot of cooling. If corners of your print are lifting up, check if the print fan is enabled, try increasing the print fan speed. Check if the print fan actually works and the fan shroud isn´t obstructed or molten.<br />If steep overhangs and small parts of your print are warping, you may try enabling the print fan at low speeds (10-20%) even for materials that do not require a lot of print-cooling such as ABS or PC-Blend. This may help for example if you have a printer in an enclosure or if the problematic part is drowned in between supports that are retaining heat. Be aware that too much print-fan speed may warp and lift up the whole object and may decrease layer-to-layer adhesion. Our goal is to cool the part neither too fast nor too slow.<br />If you experience lower layer-to-layer adhesion or even print cracking after raising the print-fan speed, try increasing the nozzle temperature to restore the bonding of the individual layers together properly.</li>
<li><strong>Ambient temperature</strong> – For high-temperature filaments, try to maintain a stable ambient temperature. An open window or an AC unit nearby the printer will increase the occurrence of warps. High-temperature materials generally require higher ambient temperature not to warp during printing. If you print with these materials most of the time, you should consider having the printer in an enclosure. Printing PLA or PETG in an enclosure might not be a good idea. These materials need a lot of print cooling, which is harder to achieve with a higher ambient temperature. It is possible to either purchase an enclosure in our e-shop. You can purchase the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/">Original Prusa Enclosure</a> in our e-shop. It is also possible to <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/">make your own enclosure</a>.</li>
<li><strong>Use a skirt and try to print more objects at once.</strong> For high-temperature materials such as PC-Blend, ASA, or ABS, try using a printed skirt (draft shield) to retain heat in and around the printed object. Printing more objects at once may also help with retaining heat. Try to orient the problematic parts of the objects towards the center of the heatbed.</li>
<li><strong>Decrease the print speed.</strong> This may help a lot with high-warping materials. Although Prusament PC-Blend is low-warping compared to other PC-Blend filaments, decreasing the print speed will help your part as a whole to settle down, melt individual layers together properly and warp less. It also increases the layer-to-layer adhesion and part strength.</li>
<li><strong>Use the brim</strong> – A brim is a good way how to increase the adhesion to the print surface.</li>
</ul>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">If the brim isn't enough, try adding a small geometry (like a tiny cylinder) specifically to the culprit area. The object should only be a few layers tall so it is also easy to remove.</div>
</div>


Warping

<p>Bridging is a term for printing layers over thin air without the use of supports. It may sound like an impossible feat, but with our printers, it’s not that difficult. Keep in mind that the best results are achieved only over short distances because the printer’s fans need to cool the extruded plastic mid-air in order to create a solid connection. There are three key settings for printing good looking bridged layers: PrusaSlicer settings, speed, and cooling.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-800x533.jpg 800w" alt="" width="675" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>The typical problem of bridging layers is sagging or drooping as seen in the photo above.</strong></p>
<h3><strong>How to fix it</strong></h3>
<p>To access some settings/parameters in PrusaSlicer, you must be in 'Advanced' or 'Expert' mode. You can switch to a different mode using the buttons in the right panel or by going to <em>Configuration -&gt; Mode -&gt; Simple/Advanced/Expert</em>. For more information please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Simple, Advanced, Expert modes</a>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/simple_advanced_expert_mode-600x316.png" alt="" width="400" height="211" loading="lazy" /><strong>Bridging flow</strong></p>
<p>The best way to prevent the layers from breaking in bridging mode is to change the “Bridging flow” setting in the PrusaSlicer. The first bridging layer should be done with a lower flow of the material. Open the settings in PrusaSlicer by right-clicking the model, then go to Object settings – Advanced – Bridge flow ratio. We recommend using lower speed for printing bridges and also lower bridging flow. The idea is to “pull” the string of extruded filament behind the nozzle, so it drops less. The ideal approach is to download bridging test models, for example, <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:476845">this</a> one, put it in the slicer several times, and set up a different flow for every model. This should be a relatively quick way how to find correct settings for your printer/material without the need to perform many test prints.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridge_flow_ratio-1024x344.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridge_flow_ratio-1024x344-300x101.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridge_flow_ratio-1024x344-600x202.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridge_flow_ratio-1024x344-768x258.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridge_flow_ratio-1024x344-800x269.jpg 800w" alt="" width="1024" height="344" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4><strong>Tweak the speeds in PrusaSlicer</strong></h4>
<p>Right-click the object in the 3D view or click on the <strong>Editing</strong> icon in the Object list to open the context menu. Then select Add settings - Speed - Bridges and tweak the speed for printing bridges.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridges_speed-1024x344.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridges_speed-1024x344-300x101.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridges_speed-1024x344-600x202.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridges_speed-1024x344-768x258.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridges_speed-1024x344-800x269.jpg 800w" alt="" width="1024" height="344" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Enforce supports half-way through the bridge</h4>
<p>If the bridge is very long, you can use support enforcers to create a support island half-way through. Right-click on the model in the 3D view and select Add support enforcer - Box. Then transform the box using the move, rotate and scale tools.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-4.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-4-600x222.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-4-800x296.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-4-300x111.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-4-768x284.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-4-1536x568.jpg 1536w" alt="" /></p>
<h4><strong>Change the orientation of the object</strong></h4>
<p>The best solution is to <strong>change the orientation of the object</strong> (rotate it) until you get rid of the bridges completely and you don’t have to worry about bridges or supports. It won’t be possible in many cases, but the rule of thumb here is to try to avoid bridges and supports completely.</p>


Poor bridging

<p>This refers to the de-lamination of the printed layers. It is mostly caused by an incorrect preset/(custom)profile with wrong temperatures and/or too much cooling from either the print fan or the sorrounding environment.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Layer-separation is more an issue from the "old days" of unheated print-beds and less accessible materials, past ABS. This is rarely an issue on the MK-series hardware with PrusaSlicer presets, especially with materials like PLA and PETG.</div>
<p>It’s not difficult to tell the difference between cracking and missing layers. Best way to identify cracked layers are the clean cuts that show a bit of an upward bend or warp.</p>
<p>Layer separation occurs when the object cracks due to forces exerted on the print when layers cool down at different rates. Warping forces exceed the layer adhesion strength and the layers separate.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Layersepp-300x200.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Layersepp-600x400.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Layersepp-768x512.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Layersepp-800x534.png 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Layersepp.png" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h3><strong>How to prevent Layer separation and Splitting</strong></h3>
<p>ABS is highly susceptible to layer separation when there’s any sort of cold air blowing on the print before it has cooled down fully. We suggest turning fans OFF for ABS prints completely.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>ABS is best printed in an enclosed chamber</strong> (even heated). <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure_7785/">Here we made one from an Ikea Lack table</a>.</div>
<p>Please remember that you may probably not be able to print objects covering the whole print area using ABS, so it is better to replace ABS with PETG filament. PETG has similar advantages ABS, but it’s much better for printing large objects and it does not have the same tendency to crack/de-laminate. ASA is also a great alternative but is still more dependent on a stable environment when printing than PETG. You can check the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/material-guide_220">material guides</a> for choosing the best material for your print.</p>
<p>PLA may suffer from cracking and layer separation problems if you’re printing with insufficient temperature. Depending on the brand, PLA is printed at a range between 195-220. If you are having issues, <strong>try increasing the printing temperature in 5°C increments, until you get a good layer adhesion.</strong></p>
<h3>Flow-rate / extrusion multiplier</h3>
<p>Increase your printer’s flow rate (in PrusaSlicer called extrusion multiplier). More material extruded will create a stronger bond between layers. increase on 5% increments. For more info please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/extrusion-multiplier-calibration_2257">Extrusion multiplier calibration</a>.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Extrusion-multiplier is located where you set temperatures, but only accessible when PrusaSlicer is set to Advanced- or Expert-mode</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>


Layer separation and splitting FDM

<p>Generally speaking, it’s always the best option to rotate the object in such a way that the supports are not needed at all. However, if you need to print complex objects, you will end up using supports anyway. After you remove the support structure, you may notice that the surface above the supports looks worse than the rest of the print.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support-surface.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support-surface-300x154.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support-surface-600x307.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support-surface-768x393.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support-surface-800x410.jpg 800w" alt="" width="878" height="450"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>The picture above shows the artifacts that can appear if print settings are not optimal</em></p>
<h3>How to fix bad looking surface above supports</h3>
<p>Again, try to <strong>rotate the object in PrusaSlicer</strong> and find a better orientation that would require fewer supports.</p>
<p>You may also consider using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cut-tool_1779">Cut tool</a>, to print two parts more easily, which you then glue together.</p>
<h3><strong>Support settings</strong></h3>
<p>In order to make the supports easier to break off from the printed object, a small gap is left between the support and the object’s surface. If you decrease the gap, you may get better results, but the supports may be more difficult to remove.</p>
<p>You can tweak the values for supports in PrusaSlicer, section <em>Print Settings – Support material</em>. Try fine-tuning Contact Z and Decrease pattern spacing to improve the quality of the surface.</p>
<p>Another good thing to try is to increase the number of interface layers to 3-4. You will have a more solid top-surface of your support, which can also make the contact-point of the support easier to remove.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Support_set.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Support_set-300x290.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Support_set-414x400.jpg 414w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Support_set-768x742.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Support_set-621x600.jpg 621w" alt="" width="518" height="500"></p>


Bad looking surface above supports

<h3>Why the name spaghetti monster?</h3>
<p>This print issue looks exactly like it sounds, a big mess of "spaghetti" on and around your print<strong>.</strong> It is actually extruded filament, which was misplaced by the print head (extruder) because at a certain point during the print the object below moved or collapsed.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If the first layer isn’t perfect, the chance of any type of print failure increases.</div>
<h3>The most common reasons</h3>
<ol>
<li>The printed object detaches from the print bed during the print</li>
<li>The printed object collapses during the print</li>
<li>An error within the 3D model and/or the sliced file</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/spaghetti-1024-x-577-jpg"></p>
<h3><strong>Troubleshooting</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Check the first layer</strong> – Simply make sure that the first layer is sticking properly to the whole print surface. You can refer to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">First layer issues</a>.</li>
<li><strong>Check the object for errors</strong>&nbsp;– Always check the generated G-code in the&nbsp;<strong>Preview</strong>&nbsp;of our&nbsp;<strong>PrusaSlicer</strong>. PrusaSlicer will also display a small warning triangle next to the model should it find any obvious issues. In case you find any gaps or broken geometry, you can either repair the STL object yourself and check our article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/corrupted-3d-models-for-printing_2205">Corrupted 3D models for printing</a>.</li>
<li><strong>Try to increase the bed temperature</strong> – If you have already experienced this error, try to re-run the print and increase the bed temperature by 5-10 <strong>°</strong>C. This should help with the first layer adhesion. You don’t have to re-slice the object and prepare a new G-code. Just start the print, go to the&nbsp;<em>LCD Menu – Tune – Bed,</em> once the mesh bed leveling is completed<strong>.</strong></li>
</ul>


Spaghetti monster

Prusa Connect &amp; PrusaLink

<h3>What happened? </h3>
<p>During the configuration of <strong>Prusa Connect</strong> on the <strong>Original Prusa MINI/+</strong>, <strong>MK4/S</strong>, <strong>MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S</strong> or <strong>XL</strong> an error on this configuration can occur and the printer shows the message "<strong>Registration to Prusa Connect failed due to: ~</strong>". In place of <strong>~</strong>, a text with more details is shown, from the list below. Depending on the specific shown text, there are different causes and fixes. </p>
<p>Error name: Connect Registration Failed</p>
<p>Error code: #12401 (MINI), #13401 (MK4), #26401 (MK4S), #21401 (MK3.9), #23401 (MK3.5), #17401 (XL)</p>
<h4>DNS error</h4>
<p>The printer wasn't able to resolve the <strong>hostname</strong> of the Prusa Connect server into an IP address. The hostname is a unique label assigned to a device connected to a network. </p>
<ul>
<li>The printer is not connected to the network at all.</li>
<li>In case of a <strong>static</strong> configuration (non-DHCP), the <strong>DNS server</strong> is not configured or configured incorrectly.</li>
<li>The local DNS server is currently not working.</li>
<li>The Connect hostname is reconfigured to some that doesn't exist. For example, this can occur if loading a .ini file with an invalid configuration.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Refused</h4>
<p>It's not possible to reach the server on the network level, hence it is not possible to establish a TCP connection. The system is either not answering at all or actively refuses the connection. </p>
<ul>
<li>The internet connection is not working, or a firewall blocks the communication.</li>
<li>In the case of a <strong>static</strong> configuration (non-DHCP), the <strong>gateway </strong>(typically, this is the IP address of the router) is not configured or configured incorrectly. </li>
<li>The Connect server is under maintenance. </li>
<li>Too many TCP connections are open with the printer, for example in PrusaLink. </li>
</ul>
<h4>TLS error</h4>
<p>This message points to an error doing a <strong>SSL/TLS handshake</strong>. This handshake is the process to create a safe and encrypted connection. </p>
<ul>
<li>Time is not synchronized on the printer (MINI/+). The time synchronization occurs for each internet connection, through the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/ntp-server-mini_151132">NTP server</a>. It is possible this might take more time than initially expected, or rarely, that there might be issues with the server. </li>
<li>A restrictive firewall (for example but not limited to a corporate proxy firewall) may restrict an automatic access to the NTP server. In that case, it will be necessary to manually allow the printer to access the NTP server.</li>
<li>Something in the path is trying to tamper with the communication, for example but not limited to an attack. </li>
</ul>
<h4>Unauthorized</h4>
<p>The server claims that the printer is not authorized. The printer is not recognized as an Original Prusa. </p>
<h4>Server error</h4>
<p>The server is returning a <strong>500 Internal Server Error</strong> or similar. The issue is on the Connect side, and is expected to be fixed on its own. </p>
<h4>Internal error</h4>
<p>This error is caused by an issue related to the printer firmware. </p>
<h4>Network error</h4>
<p>Similar to the Refused error, but the connection dropped after it was initialized. </p>
<ul>
<li>Glitchy internet connection.</li>
<li>The <strong>latency</strong> to the Connect servers is too high. A geographic location is very far from our Connect servers can contribute to this cause.</li>
<li>The Connect server is temporarily down.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Protocol error</h4>
<p>The response from the server is not recognized.</p>
<ul>
<li>Bug on the server side. This cause is on our side and expected to be fixed on its own. </li>
<li>Too old firmware on the printer and it's no longer supported.</li>
<li>A misconfiguration from the <strong>.ini file</strong> loaded on the printer, connecting to something different than our Connect server.</li>
</ul>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<h4>DNS error, Refused</h4>
<p>Ensure that the printer is connected to the internet. In case of a static (non-DHCP) connection, ensure the correct settings are there, or test a DHCP connection. Also, check the .ini configuration file, and in case, rewrite the file. </p>
<p>If the previous steps didn't fix the issue, attempt a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/factory-reset-mini_177516">factory reset</a>. </p>
<h4>TLS error</h4>
<p>Reattempt the Connect registration, after the printer is connected to the internet for a few more minutes. </p>
<p>If the previous step didn't fix the issue, double-check your network <strong>firewall</strong>. Some firewalls will need for the NTP server to be allowed manually. The specific steps will depend on your specific firewall, we recommend checking your firewall documentation. </p>
<h4>Unauthorized</h4>
<p>If your printer is not an Original Prusa printer, it cannot use our Prusa Connect service.</p>
<p>In case your printer is an Original Prusa, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784"> re-flash or update its firmware</a>. </p>
<h4>Server error</h4>
<p>A server error indicates an issue from our side. The issue will be fixed on its own, try registering again to Prusa Connect later. </p>
<h4>Internal error</h4>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">Re-flash or update the printer firmware</a>. If this does not solve the issue, take note if the printer might have other issues, even if not directly related. </p>
<h4>Network error</h4>
<p>Ensure that your internet connection is stable and not glitchy. To confirm whether an inconsistent internet connection caused the issue, test another connection, if available, such as a hotspot from your mobile phone. </p>
<h4>Protocol error</h4>
<p>Ensure that the printer is running our latest firmware version. If it is running an old version, update the firmware. Also, check the .ini configuration file, and in case, rewrite the file.</p>


Connect Registration Failed

<p>Supports are an important part of a 3D-printed object, especially when printing a model with a complex shape. If support material breaks, it is likely to cause a failure on the whole print. </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fallingsupports-1-768x768.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="600" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>PrusaSlicer shows a warning message if <span style="color: #236fa1;"><strong>stability problems are detected on a model</strong></span>. In most cases, the solution is adding support material. Typically, support material is added on big or highly sloped overhangs.</p>
<p>More info on support and related settings is on the dedicated <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/support-material_1698">support material article</a>. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is worth considering altering the orientation of the model or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cut-tool_1779">splitting the model into multiple parts</a> in order to possibly reduce overhangs and consequently, the amount of support generated.</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/86f4e24bcef26abd30f50ae82cece52c_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Failing supports REVIEW" alt="" width="600" height="389" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3><strong>How to prevent failing supports</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Avoid isolated or scarce support towers </strong>
<ul>
<li>For Grid and Snug supports, by reducing the <strong>pattern spacing</strong>.</li>
<li>For Organic supports, by increasing the <strong>branch density</strong>.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Reduce printing speed for supports in PrusaSlicer, section <em>Print settings –&gt; Speed</em>.</li>
<li>Use a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/skirt-and-brim_133969">Brim</a> around our support, found within <em>Print settings –&gt; Skirt and Brim</em>.</li>
<li>Use a different support <strong>pattern</strong>. In PrusaSlicer, section <em>Print setting –&gt; Support material –&gt; Pattern</em><strong>. </strong>
<ul>
<li>The rectilinear pattern is set by default and is the easiest to remove.</li>
<li>The rectilinear grid pattern is sturdier and less prone to breaking during printing compared to the rectilinear pattern and is harder to remove.</li>
<li>The honeycomb pattern is sturdy and somewhat difficult to remove.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Change the value of the Overhang Threshold. The Overhang threshold value represents the most horizontal slope (measured from the horizontal plane) that you can print without support material (90° = vertical).</li>
<li>Use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/modifier-meshes-custom-supports-and-other-magic_114258#custom-supports">custom supports</a>, tailored to your model.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Speed, skirt and brim settings location</h4>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/68972787ac72aba266a55ab618f36747.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Failing supports REVIEW" alt="" width="395" height="242" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/fe80ba5bc697915d96d169c67a3c3f79.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Failing supports REVIEW" alt="" width="395" height="242" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Support settings location</h4>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/e966d29ae3c608a9b32ca048f6fe645a.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Failing supports REVIEW" alt="" width="395" height="494" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/54a3b275f13b5890d00d34ba23856ea9.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Failing supports REVIEW" alt="" width="395" height="494" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


Failing supports

<p>This guide will help you solve the most common issues with the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusa-connect-and-prusalink-explained_302608">PrusaLink and Prusa Connect</a> on your Original Prusa Printer.</p>
<h3>Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL, MINI/+</h3>
<p><strong>Wi-Fi connection status</strong></p>
<p>For the Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL, MINI+, and MINI models, the Wi-Fi connection status is displayed at the top part of the LCD screen, indicated by an icon:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>White Icon</strong> (<span style="color: #0000ff;"><strong>blue arrow</strong></span> in the image below): Indicates a successful Wi-Fi connection.</li>
<li><strong>Grey Icon</strong>: Wi-Fi is active but not connected to the access point.</li>
</ul>
<p>For detailed connection status, navigate to <strong>Settings &gt; Network &gt; Wi-Fi &gt; Status</strong> in the menu. (<span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>orange arrow</strong></span> in the image below) These statuses provide insights into the Wi-Fi connectivity and troubleshooting steps for common issues:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Connected</strong>: The printer has successfully connected to the network.</li>
<li><strong>Link down</strong>: The printer is connected to the Wi-Fi access point but hasn't obtained an IP address. This could be due to a weak signal, interference, absence of DHCP server on the network, or similar issues. A short "Down" period might occur as part of the normal connection process, so waiting a bit often resolves this.</li>
<li><strong>No AP</strong>: The printer is not connected to any Wi-Fi access point, possibly due to a weak signal, incorrect credentials, or compatibility issues (e.g., the printer’s ESP Wi-Fi module can only connect to 2.4GHz Wi-Fi, not 5GHz-only access points).</li>
<li><strong>ESP error</strong>: Indicates a communication breakdown between the ESP Wi-Fi module and the printer’s main board, potentially due to an ESP firmware crash or a connection issue. The printer will reboot the ESP module automatically to resolve this. If the error recurs, user intervention may be required, such as replugging or reflashing the ESP.</li>
<li><strong>Gone</strong>: The ESP module is either unplugged or does not have an appropriate firmware installed.</li>
<li><strong>Flash ESP</strong>: The connected ESP module has outdated or incorrect firmware and needs updating / reflashing.<br />Select "Setup Wi-Fi Module" item in the same menu. The printer will automatically re-flash the ESP module firmware as a part of the setup wizard.</li>
</ul>
<h4> </h4>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/555e58e4f3b6522b94ec5fdfcc969165_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="PrusaLink Troubleshooting - Review" alt="MK4 / XL Wi-Fi connection status" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>The browser login does not work</h4>
<p>Attempt the login using another browser, some browsers might have issues with the PrusaLink login. </p>
<h4>The printer does not establish a connection (8+ minutes)</h4>
<p>Double-check the credentials in the prusa_printer_settings.ini file, and load them again in the USB drive. In each field, ensure that there is no space before and after the = character. Having the following special characters as part of the SSID would also cause the connection to not be established, make sure they are not part of the SSID: </p>
<ul>
<li>- (Dash)</li>
<li>_ (Underscore)</li>
<li>' (Apostrophe)</li>
<li>. (Dot)</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/782027dd534617cf_painted.png" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>On the <strong>MINI/+</strong> with firmware version up to 4.4x, the prusa_printer_settings.ini file might show an extra row, ensure that this is not changed (key_mgmt=WPA)</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/646e334be3da2dd0_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<h3>Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S</h3>
<h4>Bad X-Api-Key</h4>
<p>If <strong>PrusaLink </strong>is selected in PrusaSlicer, it is necessary to enter an <strong>API key</strong>. For PrusaLink 0.7.0 or higher, the API key can be found in Prusa Connect, in the Settings tab, on older versions it is shown during the PrusaLink Wizard. Alternatively, select <strong>HTTP digest</strong> for authentication and add your PrusaLink username and password.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/be235d272b70fcd5d86012f40daf4598.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="PrusaLink Troubleshooting" alt="" width="600" height="490" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>500 internal server error</h4>
<p>This error is caused by the printer serial number not being written properly on the printer Einsy board EEPROM. The solution is copying the serial number to the Einsy EEPROM, with the following procedure: </p>
<ol>
<li>Connect a power bank, a USB charger, or another source of power (excluding a computer) to the printer USB type B port.</li>
<li>With the printer switched on, press the reset button. </li>
</ol>
<h4>Some options in printer detail are not available</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure the printer is online and ready</li>
<li>If you do not see any options at all, make sure you have the correct version 0.6.1 of the PrusaLink SD card image flashed to your RPi. In case of doubt, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#222170">download the PrusaLink SD card image again</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>“ERR: NO IP” on LCD</h4>
<ul>
<li>Wait for up to 5 minutes, sometimes it shows the IP later.</li>
<li>Make sure you have Wi-Fi within reach and in 2.4 GHz.
<div class="note-callout">5GHz Wi-Fi is not supported.</div>
</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304787">Set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>, making sure you have the name and password entered correctly in Pi Imager settings.</li>
</ul>
<h4>The IP address is not shown</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure the RPi port option in <em>LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; RPi port</em> is ON. </li>
<li>Check that the green LED is on or flashing at the bottom right corner of the RPi.
<div class="warning-callout">If the green LED is not on or flashing, the RPi is not working. Review the soldering of the pins, and make sure the pins are long enough. You can test the Pi by connecting it to USB power, but make sure it is not connected via pins to the Einsy board in that case!</div>
</li>
<li>Check that the SD card can be accessed on your computer. Try a different computer if possible, or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304787">set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Credentials cannot be saved on RPi Imager</h4>
<p>Ensure that the network has a password. A network without a password cannot be saved on the RPi Imager.</p>
<h4>White/blank screen after finishing the Wizard</h4>
<p>Make sure you are logged in on <a href="https://connect.prusa3d.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">connect.prusa3d.com</a>.</p>
<h4>Forgotten login/password to the Link’s website or printer accidentally removed from Connect</h4>
<p>It will be necessary to go through the wizard again. Remove the prusa_printer_settings.ini file from the folder /home/pi, and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304787">set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>.</p>
<h4>Flashing takes a long amount of time (20+ minutes)</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure you are using a Class10 micro SD card or better. Slow microSD cards affect the speed of the flashing.</li>
<li>Some computers, especially old ones, may have a slow SD card reader. Try the USB reader, if available.</li>
</ul>
<h4>The wizard is slow (2+ minutes to load the next page)</h4>
<ul>
<li>PrusaLink might be still loading. Wait for a few minutes and try again.</li>
<li>Make sure your computer and your printer are connected to the very same network. For example, if your computer is connected by cable and your printer is connected via WiFi, it can cause this issue.</li>
</ul>
<h4>The LCD shows “Starting PrusaLink” after 5+ minutes (MK3/S/+)</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure you are using the latest <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads" target="_blank" rel="noopener">firmware version</a>.</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304787">Set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Slow uploading of the G-code to PrusaLink</h4>
<p>The upload speed is limited while printing to prevent slowing down the print.</p>
<h4>The Wizard can’t get the serial number from the printer (Err obtaining SN)</h4>
<p>Make sure you are using the latest <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">firmware version</a>. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer Support</a> if the previous step is not solving the issue. </div>
<h4>Error bad token</h4>
<div>This may occur if you use PrusaLink on a different printer than the one it was set up with. In this case, make a fresh PrusaLink installation.</div>
<h4>Err unsupported FW</h4>
<p>Upgrade the printer to the latest firmware.</p>


PrusaLink Troubleshooting

<p>Various problems with infill are not the worst kind of trouble you may come across, however, in some cases it can put the structural integrity of your prints at risk. The ideal time when you should check whether the infill is okay or not is when the object is still being printed.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Choose infill-type based on the application of the part. For mechanical parts, we recommend 3d-infills like Cubic or Gyroid. Otherwise, Grid will serve most purposes, but may not be perfect for all geometries.</div>
<h3>Troubleshooting</h3>
<ol>
<li><strong>Change infill type –</strong> Certain infill types are more difficult to print, such as the cubic infill. Try using a different one, if possible.</li>
<li><strong>Flexible filaments –</strong> Do not try to print complex infill patterns with flexible filaments. This type of filament is especially vulnerable to imperfect infills. The best bet is to use the GRID infill when printing flexible filaments. You can change the infill pattern in the&nbsp;<strong>PrusaSlicer – Print settings – Infill – Fill pattern.</strong></li>
<li><strong>Lower the printing speed –</strong> If none of the above helps, try to slow down the printing speed of the infill. This can be done in <strong>PrusaSlicer in the Print settings – Speed – Infill</strong>.</li>
</ol>


Problems with infill

<p>During normal function, your printer saves statistics, calibration data, and personalized settings, even after it is turned off. If you feel like you changed settings that have negatively affected your 3D printer, you can always revert to factory default values and try again. </p>
<div class="note-callout">Doing a factory reset will clear statistics data, like total printing time and filament use.</div>
<h3>How to factory reset</h3>
<p>Factory Reset can be done via <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; System -&gt; Factory Reset</em>. </p>
<p>Starting firmware 4.6.1 there are two options:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Reset Settings &amp; Calibrations</strong> - this option deletes all changes done by the user and reverts the system to its original state. For most of the cases, this is a sufficient method. Technically speaking only the EEPROM with user stored data is deleted. Once, the reset is done, the printer will boot to language selection, followed by the calibration wizard.</li>
<li><strong>Hard reset (USB with FW needed)</strong> - due to the complex partition layout, the firmware stores its settings not only in the EEPROM but also on the XFLASH. In some edge cases, it might be necessary to delete both of these. Once this reset is done, the user must insert a USB drive with <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-core-one-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl_453086">firmware</a> as some parts of the XFLASH will be created again from scratch.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Flashing firmware</h3>
<p>If you see any inconsistent behavior we recommend also flashing the firmware.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-core-one-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl_453086">CORE One, MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">MINI/+</a></li>
</ul>
<p>A factory reset followed by flashing the firmware and recalibrating will resolve most firmware issues you may encounter. </p>


Factory reset (CORE One, MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, MINI/+, XL)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The printer is showing the message <strong>"Check the heatbed heater &amp; thermistor wiring for possible damage."</strong></p>
<p>Error name: Bed preheat error</p>
<p>Error code: #26201 (MK4S) #13201 (MK4) #27201 (MK3.9S) #21201 (MK3.9) #28201 (MK3.5S) #23201 (MK3.5)</p>
<p>This message is shown when, during the preheat, the printer does not increase more than <strong>2 ºC for 20 seconds</strong>. The heating is paused so the issue can be fixed.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Make sure that the <strong>ambient temperature</strong> where the printer is is stable, and above <strong>10 ºC</strong>.</p>
<p>This error can be caused by damage to either the <strong>heatbed thermistor</strong> or the <strong>heatbed power cable</strong>.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Doing <strong>regular maintenance</strong> on the printer may prevent this type of issue.</div>
<p>On the heatbed, check the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>See if the <strong>thermistor </strong>is firmly seated below the <strong>Golden Kapton tape.</strong></li>
<li>Make sure that the <strong>washer </strong>is screwed above the round cable connector, not below it.</li>
<li>Check if the <strong>M3nN nut</strong> is holding the screw firmly.</li>
<li>Access the xBuddy board. Check the <strong><span style="color: #236fa1;">heatbed power cable</span></strong>, the <strong><span style="color: #2dc26b;">heatbed thermistor</span></strong>, and the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/blown-fuse-mk4-s-mk3-9-s_411666">fuse that protects the heatbed</a>.</li>
</ul>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 322.875px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 301.875px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 301.875px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Heatbedthermistor.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Preheat error #13201 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 301.875px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/b219085ec996c508.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Preheat error #13201 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/30e875e9b027e87d.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Preheat error #13201 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" height="1200" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/77686da340e7e4a3_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Preheat error #13201 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>In case all the items are correct, there might be an internal break in one of the cables. If you do not have a multimeter, it is possible to check the cables using the following test: </p>
<ol>
<li>Use a hairdryer to blow hot air at the heatbed.</li>
<li>While doing that, check if there is any temperature change on the LCD screen.</li>
<li>If there is a positive temperature change it means that the heatbed thermistor is working. In this case, the heater is defective.</li>
<li>If there is no change at all, the heatbed thermistor is defective.</li>
</ol>
<h4>Multimeter check</h4>
<p>In case you have a multimeter available, it is possible to check the resistance of the cables using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/multimeter-usage_2117">Multimeter usage</a> guide.</p>


Bed preheat error #26201 (MK4S) #13201 (MK4) #27201 (MK3.9S) #21201 (MK3.9) #28201 (MK3.5S) #23201 (MK3.5)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The printer is showing the message <strong>"Check the heatbed thermistor wiring for possible damage."</strong></p>
<p>Error name: Bed thermal runaway </p>
<p>Error code: #26203 (MK4S) #13203 (MK4) #27203 (MK3.9S) #21203 (MK3.9) #28203 (MK3.5S) #23203 (MK3.5)</p>
<p><strong>Thermal Runaway</strong> is a safety feature designed to cut power to the heaters in case of a cable malfunction. If your printer's thermistor somehow dislodges itself, electronic parts can get a lower (incorrect) temperature reading. In an attempt to compensate for the lower temperature, the heater could reach dangerously high temperatures.</p>
<p>If the <strong>heatbed </strong>temperature drops by more than <strong>2 ºC</strong> for over<strong> 60 seconds</strong>, the printer will shut down the print and show the Thermal Runaway error.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Make sure that the ambient temperature is above <strong>10 ºC</strong>, and that there are <strong>no sources of cooling</strong> near the printer, like air conditioning or windows.</p>
<p>Check if the thermistor is well secured under the <strong>golden Kapton tape</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Heatbedthermistor.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Thermal runaway #13203 (FIONA)" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>If you are printing small objects with high-temperature filaments, try to print multiple at once and/or place them away from the center of the heatbed.</p>
<p>Open the <strong>xBuddyBox-cover</strong> and the <strong>el-box-cover</strong> by opening the screws indicated below to access the heatbed cables. Make sure that the heatbed power cable did not slip from the screw, and that the heatbed thermistor cable is well connected.</p>
<p>If you have a multimeter, you can check the resistance of the cables using this guide: <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/multimeter-usage_2117">Multimeter usage</a>.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8358%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/ef0adcc4ba6782d2_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Thermal runaway #13203 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/783109cb80ab5ceb_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Thermal runaway #13203 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


Bed thermal runaway #26203 (MK4S) #13203 (MK4) #27203 (MK3.9S) #21203 (MK3.9) #28203 (MK3.5S) #23203 (MK3.5)


<ul>
<li>Prusa Connect integration</li>



<li>Prusa Account integration</li>



<li>Improved UI</li>



<li>Improved G-code Viewer</li>



<li>New system profile updating system</li>



<li>Single Perimeter for top and bottom layers</li>



<li>Extended SLA layer separation configuration</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.0


<ul>
<li>Issues with numeric keyboard repaired (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL)</li>



<li>Returned nozzle diameter setup (XL)</li>



<li>Printhead position during calibrations changed (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Cold pull (XL)</li>
</ul>


6.1.3

1.00


<ul>
<li>Improved menu bar, the menu no longer hides under a button</li>



<li>Two new parameters (Abrasive material and High flow nozzle) for G-Code checks</li>



<li>Improved automatic orientation of bridges</li>



<li>Number of bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.1


<p>Correction of product information</p>



<p>Minor content updates</p>


1.01


<ul>
<li>Multiple beds and bulk export</li>



<li>Scarf seams</li>



<li>Printables integration</li>



<li>Paint-on fuzzy skin</li>



<li>Improvements in painting tools and multi-material slicing</li>



<li>Basic support for printing with different nozzle diameters</li>
</ul>


2.9.0


<ul>
<li>Added an option to save printer logs to a text file</li>



<li>Expanded GPIO functionality (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Toolhead and hardware menu overhaul</li>



<li>Improved filament management</li>



<li>“Set Ready” button</li>



<li>Connect header status icon</li>



<li>Nozzle information for Prusa Connect</li>



<li>Mapping screen from Prusa Connect</li>



<li>Japanese language support on MINI</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa MK3.5S