MINI+

<h3>Prusa CORE One shipping table</h3>
<table class="table" style="border-collapse: collapse; height: 418px; border-style: ridge; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>Batch number</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>Estimated shipping from:</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 10px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 10px;">
<p>1</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 10px;">
<p>January 31. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>2</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>February 12. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>3</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>February 18. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>4</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>February 25. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>5</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>March 3. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>6</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>March 7. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>7</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>March 12. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>8</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>March 18. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>9</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>March 21. 2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3><span style="font-size: 20px;">Current lead time estimates for new orders</span></h3>
<p><span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>Updated: February 6th, 2025 </strong></span></p>
<p><em>The dates are only an estimation at the date of update, specified above, and rely on the actual</em> production. <em>We're doing our best but please be aware that it can shift for the lead time products. We will update here and on the product pages accordingly.</em></p>
<p>The lead time estimate applies to standalone products, other products in the order may increase the lead time.</p>
<p>If you've ordered a product in a bundle, the lead time of the order is set based on the product in the bundle with the longest lead time.</p>
<p></p>
<table class="table" style="border-collapse: collapse; height: 930.875px; border-style: ridge; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 60.875px;">
<td style="height: 60.875px; width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Product</h4>
</td>
<td style="height: 60.875px; width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Lead time</h4>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3.9 to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>1 week</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK4S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>3-4 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>1 week</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/S+ to MK3.5S</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MK4S</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1 week</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MK4S kit</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa XL<br /></strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>1-3 weeks</strong><br />(depending on variant)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 upgrade kit<br />(for MK3.9/S &amp; MK4/S)<br /></strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade<br />(for MK3.9/S &amp; MK4/S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 assembled unit<br />(MK3.9/S &amp; MK4/S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 assembled unit<br />(MK3S+ &amp; MK3.5/S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa XL Enclosure</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>2-3 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MINI Enclosure</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MK Enclosure </strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>You can find your order shipping date in the order detail section in our shop.</p>
<div class="note-callout">All products purchased in our <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">online store</a> are currently being shipped from the<strong> Czech Republic, </strong>a member state of the <strong>European Union, customs charges may apply for shipments to countries outside of the EU!</strong> Please see our advisory article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/vat-value-added-tax-customs-fees_1505#orders-outside-eu">here</a>.</div>

Shipping information

<div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Stable releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The latest <strong>stable release</strong> of PrusaSlicer can be always found in the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">DRIVERS &amp; APPS package</a> and it’s available for Windows, Mac OS X, and Linux. The package also includes test objects and printer drivers, but you can choose to install only PrusaSlicer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also download a standalone installer for your computer at <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/">PrusaSlicer introduction &amp; download</a> or at <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Stable releases are versions that have been tested as thoroughly as possible and have gone through numerous public alpha- and beta-versions.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Alpha and Beta releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Do you want to keep up with PrusaSlicer’s fast development pace? Development builds have the latest features and bug fixes. However, they can be unstable, crash, or behave unexpectedly. We do not recommend using development builds in production environments. Check out <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a> for downloads and more info.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For how to install PrusaSlicer on most computers, see our article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/install-prusaslicer_1903">Install PrusaSlicer</a>.</div>
</div>


Download PrusaSlicer

Layers and perimeters

<p dir="ltr">3D printers work by laying layer over layer of plastic to create a 3D object. Each new layer must be supported by the one beneath it. If part of your model starts in mid-air and is not supported by anything below, you need to add an additional support structure to ensure a successful print.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is worth considering altering the orientation of the model or splitting the model into multiple parts in order to possibly reduce overhangs and consequently the amount of supports generated.</div>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicer can both detect areas that need supports and generate them in these places <strong>automatically</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also set supports manually using:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a></li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/modifier-meshes-custom-supports-and-other-magic_114258#custom-supports">Support enforcers and blockers</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can be turned on from the <strong>right panel</strong> or in the <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">There are 3 different Support styles in PrusaSlicer</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr">Grid</li>
<li dir="ltr">Snug</li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131">Organic</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">When the print finishes, depending on the model geometry and material used, the support structure is often easily removable with bare hands. You can use pliers to get a better grip in otherwise hard-to-reach places. A scalpel or a utility knife can also be used to cleanly remove a piece of support that seems to be stuck to the model.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Pieces of supports can be surprisingly sharp and are sometimes violently ejected in a random direction after removal. When you encounter hard-to-remove supports, <strong>consider wearing protective glasses</strong> (this sounds stupid until you get hit in the eye for the first time).</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports everywhere</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can grow from both the print bed and any model surface when necessary. </p>
<p dir="ltr">This ensures that every overhang and part starting mid-air will get supported. However, small imperfections may appear on the surface where supports started growing from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports from build plate only</h3>
<p>Creates only supports that have their base at the print bed.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-300x171.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-600x343.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-768x439.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-800x457.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports from build plate only (left), supports everywhere (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">For support enforcers only</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Automatic support generation is enabled only for areas marked with a support enforcer. This option is essentially a shortcut that turns <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong> on, but <strong>Print settings - Support material - Auto-generated supports</strong> off.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports on/off for individual models</h3>
<p dir="ltr">It’s possible to print multiple objects at once each with its own support settings. By default, all models are affected by the global settings. You can overwrite them by <strong>right-clicking</strong> on a model in the 3D view and selecting <strong>Support material</strong>. Alternatively, you can right-click on the editing icon in the Object list.</p>
<p dir="ltr">A new window will appear in the right panel called <strong>Object settings to modify - Support material</strong>. Changing these settings will affect only the relevant object and its instances. You can remove the settings overwrite by clicking on the red cross icon. When you do so, the global settings will once again be applied.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-300x149.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-600x299.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-768x383.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-800x399.png 800w" alt="" width="495" height="247" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcer/blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The automatic supports can sometimes appear in hard-to-reach places, resulting in a tedious removal of support structures. If you think such a part of the model could be printed without supports, but neither the <strong>Overhang threshold</strong> setting nor selecting <strong>Supports on built plate only</strong> helped, you can adjust supports manually.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Starting with PrusaSlicer 2.3, you can also use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a>.</div>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Right-click</strong> on a model and choose either a <strong>Support blocker or Support enforcer</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Simple mode</strong></span> - Enforcers/blockers are always box-shaped</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong>Advanced mode</strong></span> - Box/Cylinder/Sphere/Slab shapes</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong>Expert mode</strong></span> - Option to load external geometry as a blocker/enforcer</p>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers and enforcers can be manipulated with the familiar Move, Rotate, and Scale tools. You can also quickly duplicate them with copy&amp;paste.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers are useful when you’re generally happy with the automatic supports and you simply want to remove some of them. Focus on placing blockers where the supports meet the object, the rest of the support structure below will be removed automatically.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcers</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support enforcers are great in situations, where only a few parts of the object need to be supported, but the automatic algorithm places supports all over the model. In this situation, don’t forget to switch the support mode to For support enforcers only. </p>
<p dir="ltr">It’s less common, but you can also use support enforcers with the automatic generation on.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Another interesting use of support enforcers is to split long bridges into smaller ones by placing a support in the middle of the bridge. You can repeat this process and print shorter, near-perfect bridges while still making the supports easy to remove.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Generate support material</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports are disabled unless a model has an overwrite for this setting</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Auto-generated supports</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When off, the overhang detection is off. Only support enforcers generate supports.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Overhang threshold</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Overhang threshold value represents the most horizontal slope (measured from the horizontal plane) that you can print without support material (90=vertical).</p>
<p dir="ltr">Changing this value is a quick way to adjust the amount of generated supports.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The lower the value, the less support will be generated.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-300x171.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-600x342.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-768x437.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-800x455.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<ol>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">The Overhang threshold value and how it's measured</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 55</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 35</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 15</li>
</ol>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Enforce support for the first</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Generate support material for the specified number of layers counting from the bottom, regardless of whether normal support material is enabled or not and regardless of any angle threshold. This is useful for getting more adhesion of objects having a very thin or poor footprint on the build plate.</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-300x204.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-587x400.jpg 587w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-768x523.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-800x545.jpg 800w" alt="" /><em>Enforce support for the first 100 layers</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Raft layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The object will be raised by this number of layers and support material will be generated under it. When the print finishes, you can grab the raft and peel it away from the part.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Raft contact Z distance</h3>
<p>The vertical distance between the raft and the object. Ignored for soluble interfaces.</p>
<h3>Raft expansion</h3>
<p>Expansion of the raft in the XY plane for better stability.</p>
<h3>Style</h3>
<p>Style and shape of supports. The default <strong>Grid</strong> supports have a very well-defined minimum area, making them very stable. However, they tend to leak out of regions they support along the walls of the object. The <strong>Snug</strong> supports maintain the shape of the overhang, so they do not leak to the walls. The trade-off is the possibility of lower stability of tall and thin support pillars.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-600x190.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-800x253.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-300x95.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-768x243.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-1536x485.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-2048x647.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="584" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Grid supports (left), Snug supports (right)</em></p>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131"><strong>Organic supports</strong></a> offer a completely different approach to supporting overhanging areas. Branches of support structures grow from the sides and automatically get denser beneath parts that need the support. The Organic supports are easily removable, do not scar the surface, and are fast and cheap to print.</p>
<figure class="image" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" title="Support material" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/30cd916294dd7ac737ac7c09e1edfbb9.jpg" alt="" width="2011" height="1119" loading="lazy" /><figcaption>Grid supports (left), Organic supports (right)</figcaption></figure>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top contact Z distance</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The vertical distance between the object and the support material interface.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting this to 0 will prevent PrusaSlicer from using bridge flow and speed for the first object layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Values between 50-75% of the layer height seem to work well.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-300x191.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-600x381.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-768x488.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-800x508.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom contact Z distance</h3>
<p>Similar to Top contact Z distance, but affecting the gap at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear - default, usually the easiest to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear grid - sturdier and less prone to breaking during printing compared to rectilinear infill, harder to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Honeycomb - sturdy, somewhat difficult to remove</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>With sheath around the support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a single perimeter around the supports, which makes them sturdier, but more difficult to remove.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between support material lines. Increase to make support removal easier. Support interface layers bridge over support material lines, if you increase this value too much, these bridges will start to sag and have an imperfect connection with the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The pattern spacing also sets the internal resolution of PrusaSlicer's supports grid. If you're using Paint-on supports or Support enforcers and you're unable to force supports exactly where you want them to be, try lowering the pattern spacing to get more resolution.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern angle</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rotates infill pattern angle on the horizontal plane.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Closing radius</h3>
<p>For Snug supports only. Gaps smaller than the closing radius will be filled in.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top interface layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Interface layers form a more uniform surface between the object and the support material. These are preferably set to a much denser pattern than the non-interface layers so that you can both maximize the surface area of the support in contact with the model to prevent sagging while minimizing print time and material used with a bigger non-interface pattern spacing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom interface layers</h3>
<p>Similar as Top interface layers, but affecting the number of interface layers at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between interface lines. Set to 0 to get a solid interface.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface loops</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When enabled, the top layer of supports is covered with loops - continuous polylines.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Support on build plate only</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can start only on the print bed. Enabling this option is a really quick way to get rid of excess supports mostly on organic shapes. Make sure to check the preview and verify that all parts are either supported or at an overhang angle manageable by the printer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-300x178.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-600x356.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-768x455.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-800x474.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports everywhere (left) vs Supports on build plate only (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>XY separation between an object and its support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Sets the width of a gap between the model and supports. Bigger XY separation decreases the contact area of supports but makes them easier to remove and less prone to fusing to the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If expressed as a percentage (for example 150%) it will be calculated over the external perimeter width.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-300x151.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-600x301.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-768x386.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-800x402.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Don’t support bridges</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Prevents support material from being generated under bridged areas.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Synchronize with object layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports will be printed at equal layer heights as the model itself. This is useful with multi-material printers, where the extruder switch is expensive.</p>
<p>Synchronize with object layers can only be enabled with soluble supports (contact Z distance 0). </p>
<p>Not synchronizing with object layers allows the support layers to grow faster than the object layers (if not excessively slowed down by the cooling logic) and independent layer height also allows PrusaSlicer to follow the gap between the object and the support top surface precisely. We may consider this to be configurable even for non-soluble supports in the future.</p>
<p> </p>


Support material

Infill patterns

Original Prusa MINI+ kit assembly

The Original Prusa MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

Original Prusa MINI+ semi-assembled

Original Prusa MINI Enclosure

Assembly manuals

Basic calibration

Advanced calibration

What to do when the printer reports an error message during calibration.

Calibration Error Messages

All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

Printer description

Printer features

FAQs and other useful information you might be interested in before or after making your purchase at shop.prusa3d.com

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

About your printer

3D models

Material guide

Slicing

Printer maintenance

Prusa Connect & PrusaLink

In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

Using the printer

Print Quality Troubleshooting

QR Error codes

Printer troubleshooting

Print Error Messages

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

Troubleshooting

Nozzles

Octoprint

Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more.

3rd party accessories & Other projects

About PrusaSlicer

Configuration and profiles

User interface

Input/output

Left toolbar

Top toolbar

Print settings

Filament settings

Printer settings

Advanced features

Other (PrusaSlicer)

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

Building your MINI+

1. Introduction

2. YZ - axis assembly

Building your MINI+ (printed spool holder)

3. X-axis & Extruder assembly

Manual changelog MINI+ semi-assembly

2. Assembling the Enclosure

4. Print head & Heatbed assembly

3. Installing the printer

5. LCD assembly & Electronics

Advanced filtration system (add-on)

6A. Spool holder assembly

White LED strip (add-on)

6B. Spool holder assembly

Fire Suppression System (add-on)

7. Preflight check

Mechanical lock (add-on)

Manual changelog MINI Enclosure

Manual changelog MINI+ kit

<p>Each Original Prusa printer is shipped with a bundle of sample G-codes. These G-codes are tested and tailored specifically for your printer model and can be used to see the printer's capabilities or troubleshoot.</p>
<p>Find your printer in the table and download the zip archive. The model geometry (.stl/.3mf) and the presliced version (.gcode) are included.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can find all our sample prints, including the printable parts of our printers, on our <a href="https://www.printables.com/@Prusa3D/collections/">Printables page</a>.</div>
<h2>Original Prusa FFF Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 639.687px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21.3333px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21.3333px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 21.3333px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21.3333px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left; height: 21.3333px;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8889px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 20.8889px;">CORE One</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 20.8889px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 20.8889px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/COREOne_Sample_Models.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 20.8889px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/COREOne_Sample_Gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MK4S/MK3.9S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4S-MK39S-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4S-MK3.9S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MK4/MK3.9</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4-MK39-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4-MK39-gcodes.zip">link</a>*</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 28.7986px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 28.7986px;">MK3.5/S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 28.7986px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 28.7986px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK35S_Sample_Models.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 28.7986px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3.5-S_Sample_Gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK3S+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK3S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MK3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MINI+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MINI</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">XL 1T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-1T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-1T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">XL 2T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-2T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-2T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">XL 5T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-5T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-5T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU3 &amp; MK4</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK4-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK4-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MMU3 &amp; MK4S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK4S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK4S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1111px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1111px;">MMU3 &amp; MK3S/+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1111px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1111px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK3S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1111px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK3S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU2S &amp; MK3S/+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MMU2S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MMU2S &amp; MK2.5S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK25S_MMU2S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU2 &amp; MK3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3_MMU2-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MMU2 &amp; MK2.5</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK25_MMU2-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU1 &amp; MK2</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU1-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK2MMU-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><em>*The archive includes G-codes for both MK4 and MK3.9 printers. G-codes are sliced for Input Shaper and older non-Input Shaper firmware. To print the Input Shaper G-codes, please make sure your printer is running <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">firmware 5.0.0 or newer</a>.</em></p>
<h2>Original Prusa SLA Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 73px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px;">Original Prusa SL1S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 21px;">MSLA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px;">Original Prusa SL1</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 21px;">MSLA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Prusa Pro FFF Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 31px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 10px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 10px;">Prusa Pro HT90</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 10px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 10px;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 10px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/HT90-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>


Sample G-codes

<p>As there are ways of remotely transferring files and starting prints, an SD card or USB flash drive is the most common and reliable way to get your files to your machine. Though common and convenient, flash memory is not the most reliable in itself and your storage can be corrupted or fill up without any obvious signs. Therefore, we have put together a small guide on how to maintain, format, and purchase memory for your Original Prusa printer.</p>
<h3>Make sure your SD card is not locked!</h3>
<p>The SD card has a latch on the side. Before using your SD card, make sure that the latch is not set to the Locked position. In case it is locked, you will not be able to save files on the card, and the printer will not be able to open the SD card.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01-300x293.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01-410x400.jpg 410w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h3>Storage over 32 GB</h3>
<p>There is no upper size limit on compatible storage media, but <strong>the built-in Windows formatting tool does not support formatting storage media from a size of 32 GB or more to FAT32.</strong> It will only provide the option for exFAT, which is currently not supported by our printers. There are similar limitations under various versions of Apple's OSx, where a third-party application must be used to format it correctly.</p>
<p>To format such a drive you need a third-party application, like Rufus, FAT32 format, or EaseUS Partition Master. <strong>Be careful when using such programs</strong> so you do not <strong>accidentally format the wrong storage media</strong>, like your hard drive. However, 8-16 GB is more than enough for most use cases, as a G-code file rarely exceeds 100 MB.</p>
<h3>How do I format the USB drive/SD card?</h3>
<p>If your SD card or USB drive is full or if you can't read the content of the drive, but the drive is recognized by windows, most often all you need to do is to format the drive.</p>
<div class="note-callout">If your USB drive or SD card does not even show up in your computer file explorer it is probably corrupted beyond repair, or at least beyond the scale of this article. If you get an error like the one in the picture below and it does not show up anywhere, off to google you go, but you might have to consider this card/USB drive lost and get a new one.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-800x317.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-768x304.jpg 768w" alt="" width="631" height="250"></p>
<h3>How to format on Windows</h3>
<p>On Windows, this is very simple. Locate your USB drive or SD card in my computer, right-click, and choose format.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-300x288.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-417x400.png 417w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-768x737.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-625x600.png 625w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<p>A new small window will pop up. Most of the time you can simply leave everything to default, but the most important thing is that the <strong>File System is set to FAT32.</strong> This and the Volume Label (Name of the drive) is the only thing you want to touch here. Click Start and your drive will be formatted in a matter of seconds.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Formatting any drive will delete all the content of the drive! Back up your stuff!</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04-166x300.png 166w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04-222x400.png 222w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04.png" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="note-callout">If the USB stick will not work even after this procedure, it is either broken or its "partitioning scheme" is set as GPT, which is incorrect. <strong>It must be set as MBR (Master Boot Record).</strong> For how to change this, please see <a href="https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-server/storage/disk-management/change-a-gpt-disk-into-an-mbr-disk">Microsoft's official documentation</a>.</div>
<h3>How to format on Mac</h3>
<p>On Mac, it is a few more steps, but still very accessible. Again, you want to choose <strong>FAT32 as your file system</strong>, but you also have the option of changing the "partitioning scheme", which <strong>should always be MBR (Master Boot Record).</strong></p>
<div class="warning-callout">This process deletes all content from the drive.</div>
<ol>
<li>Plug the USB drive or SD card into your Mac.</li>
<li>Go to <em>Applications -&gt; Utilities</em> and launch <em>Disk Utility.</em></li>
<li>Click on the icon in the top-left (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrow</span>) and select "Show All Devices" from the drop-down menu.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-600x271.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-800x361.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-300x135.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-768x347.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-1536x693.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="226"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="4">
<li>Right-click on the USB drive/SD card in the sidebar under "External". <em>Select the top entry for your drive, not a partition located below.</em></li>
<li>Select Erase in the Disk Utility-toolbar (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrow</span>).</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-600x271.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-800x361.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-300x135.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-768x347.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-1536x693.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="226"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="6">
<li>Enter a name for the formatted disk.</li>
<li>Click on the Format menu and choose MS-DOS (FAT).</li>
<li>Make sure the Scheme is set to "Master Boot Record".</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-600x301.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-800x401.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-300x150.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-768x385.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-1536x771.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-2048x1027.png 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="251"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="9">
<li>Click Erase.</li>
<li>Your USB drive will now be erased and re-formatted correctly.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">If your SD card is not detected by the printer at all, be sure to check out <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sd-card-not-working_2095">SD card not working</a> for further information.</div>

SD cards and USB drives

<p>Filament grinding, which is accompanied by a “clicking” or "squeaking " sound coming from the extruder, usually happens when the extruder gears are unable to push the filament further towards the nozzle. Over time, the gears grind away the filament, until they can’t grab it anymore.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you have questions or issues regarding <strong>vibration noises</strong> from the printer, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/vibration-when-printing-mk3s-mk2-5s_2177">Vibration when printing (MK3S+/MK2.5S)</a>.</div>
<p>The clicking sound means that the stepper motor is having to suddenly exert more force than a specific preset threshold and it's jumping back by one or more steps (skipping) to relieve the pressure. It can be a mechanical issue, electrical issue, software issue, jammed/clogged hotend, or a combination of this.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">First, you need to remove the filament from the extruder. If the filament has been ground through and can not be unloaded from the LCD menu, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/removing-filament-from-extruder-manually_121491">follow this guide to manually remove it.</a></div>
<h2>Possible causes</h2>
<h3>Slicing</h3>
<p>Slice the model again using the&nbsp;<strong>latest version of PrusaSlicer and its filament presets</strong>. Also, see if the 3D model is not corrupted or incomplete.</p>
<p>Try to increase the <strong>hotend temperature</strong> (Filament settings -&gt; Filament -&gt; Temperature °C) <strong>by 5 - 15</strong> °C. It is important to make sure the temperature is corrected for the filament being printed. You can check our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">Extensive Material table</a> to confirm your settings.</p>
<h3>First Layer calibration</h3>
<p>Having the first layer calibration set too close can eventually cause a clogged hotend. Make sure you have it set just right, as instructed in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-mini-mini_229122">First Layer Calibration (MINI/MINI+)</a>.</p>
<h3>Idler tension</h3>
<p>Make sure that your extruder idler is properly tightened. If the extruder idler screws are overtightened, the gears will not push the filament properly. Try to loosen (or tighten) the&nbsp;<strong>extruder idler screw(s)</strong> (with the spring). Their tension must be accurate (neither too tight nor too loose). Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/idler-screw-tension_177367">Idler screw tension</a> for how it should be on your printer.</p>
<h3>Drive gears alignment</h3>
<p>Double-check the <strong>alignment</strong> of both extruder gears. Both of them must be aligned with the opening above and with the PTFE tube below so that they can properly feed the filament into the hotend. Make sure the gear on the extruder motor shaft is tightened by its grub screw against the flat part of the motor axis.</p>
<p>Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/checking-re-aligning-the-bondtech-gear-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_133176">Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear (MK3.5/S, MK3S/+, MK2.5S)</a> for more information regarding the MK2.5/S and MK3/S/+ or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-access-and-clean-the-extruder-pulley-mini-mini_126457">this article for the Original Prusa MINI/MINI+</a>.</p>
<h3>Dirty extruder gears</h3>
<ul>
<li>Make sure that your extruder gears are clear of any leftover plastic. You can clear the plastic with a sharp corner of pliers or with a durable pin.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Make sure the gears are turning freely</li>
<li>Check if the motor gear is aligned and tightened with the grub screw against the flat part of the motor axis</li>
</ul>
<p>Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/checking-re-aligning-the-bondtech-gear-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_133176">Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear (MK3.5/S, MK3S/+, MK2.5S)</a> for more information regarding the MK2.5/S and MK3/S/+ or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-access-and-clean-the-extruder-pulley-mini-mini_126457">this article for the Original Prusa MINI/MINI+</a>.</p>
<h3>Jammed PTFE tube</h3>
<p>While checking the extruder gears, take a look at the PTFE tube as well and make sure there is no debris in it that would prevent the filament from being loaded properly. To inspect the PTFE tube, open the extruder idler door. For more information, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/removing-filament-from-extruder-manually_121491">Removing filament from extruder manually</a>.</p>
<h3>Hotend assembly</h3>
<p>Verify, whether the&nbsp;<strong>nozzle is properly assembled</strong>&nbsp;into the heater block:&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li>See if the heater block and the nozzle are not crooked.</li>
<li>Is there a space of 0.5 mm (0.02 inch) between the nozzle head and the heater block as it should be?</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted.png" alt="" width="500" height="227"></p>
<div class="tip-callout">Check <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007">Under-extrusion</a> where we go through all the usual causes of extrusion-related problems.</div>
<h3>Clogged hotend</h3>
<p>Please follow <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">this article</a> to clean your hotend, as the hotend might be clogged. If you don't manage to clean the clog, you would have to <strong>take out the hotend</strong>&nbsp;from the extruder, disassemble it completely, clean it thoroughly and apply some<strong>&nbsp;extra thermal paste</strong> on the heatbreak before assembling the hotend back together.</p>
<div class="note-callout">If you need to change one of the components of your hotend, refer to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbreak-heatsink-heaterblock-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_16104">this guide</a> (for MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S. For MK3/MK2.5, there is a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbreak-heaterblock-heatsink-mk3-mk2-5_14944">separate guide</a>).</div>


Extruder noises

<p>The blob (mass of plastic accumulated around the hotend) is one of the most scary-looking printing problems you might face with your 3D printer. Removing it after it happens is quite tricky, though not impossible.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Please note that damage caused by the blob is <strong>not covered by the warranty</strong> as it is neither hardware nor software related. It can be prevented by properly calibrating the printer as well as by stopping the print as soon as the filament starts to stick to the nozzle.<br />See the <strong>Safety Instructions</strong> on the 3D Printing Handbook bundled with each of our printers. <strong>Do not leave the printer unattended while it's switched on.</strong></div>
<p>We prepared a short video on how to remove an extruder blob. The video features our Original Prusa MK3, but the same principles of heating the filament blob in order to soften it and carefully removing it with pliers <strong>apply to all our FDM printer models.</strong> </p>
<h3>How to clear the extruder blob</h3>
<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mSmJKjibMT0" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" loading="lazy"></iframe></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Before doing anything, please note that the cables of the hotend thermistor and the heater cartridge are most likely entangled in the blob. The heater cartridge cable in particular is very vulnerable as <strong>its insulation ends before the wire enters the cartridge body. </strong></div>
<ol>
<li>Preheat the nozzle in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings/Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em>. The temperature needs to be approximately 30°C higher than the temperature at which the blob has formed. For example, if the blob is made of:
<ul style="list-style-type: square;">
<li><strong>PLA: </strong>preheat to 250<strong>°</strong>C</li>
<li><strong>ABS/PETG:</strong> preheat to 280<strong>°</strong>C</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">On MK3/S/+, it is also possible to preheat the printer through the <em>Preheat</em> menu, but note that a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/thermal-model-calibration_382488">Thermal anomaly error</a> might happen.</div>
<ol>
<li>If <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/mintemp-error-and-mintemp-bed_2169">MINTEMP</a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/preheat-error_2163">Preheat error</a> message appears on the LCD, it means the thermistor or the heater cable (respectively) is already broken. In this case, your only option is to use a heat gun to heat the plastic. Work very carefully, you don't want to melt the printed parts surrounding the hotend. Clear the blob little by little.</li>
<li>After the hotend reaches the right temperature, leave it this way for at least 5 minutes. <strong><em>Turn the printer off before the next step, or you might cause an electrical short.<br /></em></strong></li>
<li>Smaller blobs will start to fall off by themselves. As for the bigger ones, use a pair of pliers to remove the now soft plastic mass from the hotend carefully. Again, be very cautious around the leads coming from the hot end, in particular, the thermistor leads.<em><strong><br /></strong></em></li>
<li>Once the big chunks of the amassed plastic are removed, use a small brass brush to get rid of what's left (as shown in the video above).</li>
<li>In case you do not succeed, as well as in case the blob has damaged some of the extruder parts, you can find your spare parts <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/18-spare-parts">here</a>. To see the spare parts section, you have to be logged into the account you used to purchase the printer.</li>
</ol>
<h3><strong>How to prevent this problem from happening</strong></h3>
<p>Unlike the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/spaghetti-monster_1999">Spaghetti monster</a> issue, the blob issue often occurs early during the print. In general, the blob forms if the first layer detaches from the print surface and sticks to the moving hot nozzle while it keeps extruding, causing the blob to grow.</p>
<p>In order to prevent this situation from happening, bear in mind these simple rules:</p>
<ul>
<li>Always make sure to <strong>clean the print surface</strong> before starting the print. See <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804"><u>this guide</u></a> for more details.</li>
<li>Take the time to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364"><u>adjust the first layer height</u></a> at the beginning of the print. Make sure that the first layer is sticking properly to the entire print surface.
<div class="tip-callout">This step does not apply to Original Prusa MK4, MK3.9, XL, as they are equipped with <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/loadcell-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-xl_401253">loadcell</a>, although minor first layer adjustment is still possible on these printers. </div>
</li>
<li><strong>Check the print every now and then.</strong> If you observe any potential problem, pause the print and give yourself the time to solve it. As a last resort, you can always stop the print, adjust the settings, and start again.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Silicone sock</h3>
<p>Consider installing a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/nextruder-silicone-sock-core-one-xl-mk4-s-mk3-9-s_641415">silicone sock</a>. This is <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-nextruder-silicone-sock-set/">available in our shop</a> for <strong>MK4/S</strong>, <strong>MK3.9/S</strong>, and <strong>XL</strong>. Although the component does not prevent extruder blobs, in case this occurs, it makes it easier to remove it. </p>


Extruder blob

Squaring your MINI

Clogged nozzle/hotend (MINI/MINI+)

Multimeter usage

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The printer will display "Mintemp error" for the heatbed if the printer's heatbed temperature goes below 15 ºC at any point. In this case, the printer will stop the heating and display the message on the screen. The printer then waits for the user to inspect all parts and if needed fix the issue.</p>
<p>Error name: Mintemp error bed</p>
<p>Error code: #12207</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>The error might indicate some issue with the wiring, either the heater or the thermistor cables are possibly damaged.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>When running the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/selftest-failed-mini-mini_112055">self-test</a> you must have the flexible steel sheet placed on the magnetic heatbed.</strong> Without it, the self-test can fail and give you the Mintemp bed error.</div>
<h4>A visual inspection</h4>
<p>Check the heatbed, where the thermistor and heater resides, that no wires have broken off the sensor or heater themselves. While the printer is turned off, carefully try to move the wires by hand. If any of them have come detached your search is over and the part needs to be changed. <strong>It is not recommended to solder these wires,</strong> moreover, for the thermistor, it will change its resistance and thus readings. Spare parts can be found in our e-shop, or you can contact <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Support</a> for assistance.</p>
<p>Try preheating the heatbed in <em>LCD-menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperatures -&gt; Heatbed</em> to 90 ºC. After the temperature is reached, move the cables behind the heatbed by hand to see if the error will appear. In case the LCD main screen shows 0/0 in the heatbed temperature, check the cable connections to the Buddy board.</p>
<p>Loosen the one screw securing the cover (circled in the picture below), remove the top cable cover and flip it open to reveal the board.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-1536x1152.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450"></p>
<p>Check that all the connectors are secure in their sockets, according to the picture below. Focus on the thermistor and heater cables (yellow arrows). Though unlikely, rough shipping or handling could have shaken the heater or thermistor cables loose.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/161ad41bf0a287d1_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/161ad41bf0a287d1_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/161ad41bf0a287d1_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/161ad41bf0a287d1_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/161ad41bf0a287d1_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/161ad41bf0a287d1_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" width="600" height="450" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h4>Checking the resistance</h4>
<p>The table below describes the correct resistance for each part, as well as what scale you should set your meter to. <strong>We have another more in-depth guide on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/multimeter-usage_2117">Multimeter usage</a>.</strong> All thermistors are rated to be <strong>100 kΩ at 25 °C.</strong> To be realistic, with a varying temperature between 20 °C and 30 <strong>°</strong>C, <strong>you can expect a wider range of readings (~85-125 kΩ) than with the heater.</strong></p>
<div class="tip-callout">There can be micro-fractures in the cable, breaking the connections only at certain positions. Therefore, try to move the cable a bit while doing the measurement and see if the value changes drastically.</div>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<h5>Part</h5>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<h5>Resistance</h5>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<h5>Multimeter scale</h5>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<p>Thermistors (Bed and hotend)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<p><strong>[80 kΩ - 125 kΩ]</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<p>200 kΩ</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<p>Heatbed</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<p><strong>[6.5 Ω - 7 Ω ]</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<p>200 Ω</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>The part should be cold (room temperature) and unplugged when measuring the resistance!</strong></div>
<h4>Where to measure</h4>
<p>For every component, there are several options, our main focus will be on the connectors. The measurement appears on the multimeter LCD as soon as the measurement probes touch the component. To obtain the correct and relevant values, this is where you need to apply the probes:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Thermistors:</strong> metal inserts in plastic connectors</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 330px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-300x217.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-554x400.jpg 554w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-768x554.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-800x577.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor.jpg" data-hd-height="330px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Heater cables:</strong> screws holding the cables in the connector</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 320px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-300x209.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-574x400.jpg 574w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-768x536.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-800x558.jpg 800w" data-hd-height="320px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>The hot end and heat bed have the same connector. Make sure you measure the correct one.</em></p>
<h3>Parts replacement guide(s)</h3>
<p>In case you find some parts are faulty, please order them using our e-shop, then follow the service guide(s):</p>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbed-thermistor-mini-mini_142672">How to replace a heatbed thermistor (MINI/MINI+)</a></p>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbed-mini-mini_156765">How to replace a heatbed (MINI/MINI+)</a></p>


Mintemp error bed #12207 (MINI)

<p>When unloading the filament, the tip can have a large or irregular shape that is too big for the Bowden PTFE tube. You may hear some grinding sounds from the extruder as the printer is unable to pull the filament. It can then be stuck in the Bowden or hotend PTFE tube after the unloading procedure is complete.</p>
<p><strong>To resolve this in the fastest way possible</strong> your approach can differ depending on where it is stuck:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Inside print head:</strong> The tip filament is not visible, stuck <em>before</em> the Bowden tube (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrows</span>).</li>
<li><strong>Inside Bowden:</strong> The tip of the filament is visible and stuck in the Bowden PTFE tube (<span style="color: #236fa1;">blue arrows</span>).</li>
</ul>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8176%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/1073038e23fc71da_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/1073038e23fc71da_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/1073038e23fc71da_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/1073038e23fc71da_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/1073038e23fc71da_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/1073038e23fc71da_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/1073038e23fc71da_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8176%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/918b2fdd7d6a4e97_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/918b2fdd7d6a4e97_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/918b2fdd7d6a4e97_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/918b2fdd7d6a4e97_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/918b2fdd7d6a4e97_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/918b2fdd7d6a4e97_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/918b2fdd7d6a4e97_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8176%; text-align: center;"><em>Inside print head - Stuck anywhere below the fitting</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8176%; text-align: center;"><em>Inside Bowden - Stuck anywhere in the Bowden tube</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Stuck inside print head</h3>
<ol>
<li>Make sure the nozzle is still heated to the temperature of the loaded filament. If the nozzle is cold, navigate to <em>LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperatures -&gt; Nozzles</em>, and set the correct temperature.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">CAUTION: The nozzle is now hot and can cause burns!</div>
<ol start="2">
<li>Unscrew the large brass nut (<span style="color: #843fa1;">purple arrow</span>) securing the long PTFE tube, using pliers or a 10 mm spanner. <em>The lower portion of the brass fitting should <strong>not</strong> be unscrewed nor removed!</em></li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/41ecc2603a1eb043_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/41ecc2603a1eb043_painted-534x400.jpeg 534w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/41ecc2603a1eb043_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/41ecc2603a1eb043_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/41ecc2603a1eb043_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/41ecc2603a1eb043_painted-1536x1151.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/41ecc2603a1eb043_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="375"></p>
<ol start="3">
<li>&nbsp;Pull out the filament from the hotend PTFE tube. <em>You may need to use pliers and there can be some resistance.</em></li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>If the filament breaks in the hotend PTFE tube</strong> and there is filament left in it, follow the procedure to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mini-mini_112011#disassembling-the-hotend"> shown in this article to clear it.</a></div>
<ol start="4">
<li>Cut the irregularly shaped filament tip obstructing the unload, at a 45-degree angle.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.7895%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_cut_filament111.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_cut_filament111-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_cut_filament111-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_cut_filament111-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_cut_filament111-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_cut_filament111-1536x1152.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
<td style="width: 48.7895%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_cut_filament22.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_cut_filament22-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_cut_filament22-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_cut_filament22-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_cut_filament22-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_cut_filament22-1536x1152.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<ol start="5">
<li>Repeat the unload filament function to completely unload the filament.</li>
<li>Resecure the brass fitting and you should be ready to load a new filament.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">If you can not unload the filament from the menu after the procedure, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/idler-screw-tension_177367#mini">loosen the Idler screw on the extruder</a> and pull it out by hand.</div>
<h3>Stuck inside Bowden</h3>
<ol start="1">
<li>Unscrew the large brass nuts (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green</span> and <span style="color: #843fa1;">purple</span> arrows) on both sides of the Bowden PTFE tube by using pliers or a 10 mm spanner (<span style="color: #236fa1;">blue arrow</span>). <em>The lower portion of either brass fittings should <strong>not</strong> be unscrewed and removed!</em></li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/1c86bbc201ef566a_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/1c86bbc201ef566a_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/1c86bbc201ef566a_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/1c86bbc201ef566a_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/1c86bbc201ef566a_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/1c86bbc201ef566a_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/eddce33c9743b468_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/eddce33c9743b468_painted-534x400.jpeg 534w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/eddce33c9743b468_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/eddce33c9743b468_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/eddce33c9743b468_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/eddce33c9743b468_painted-1536x1151.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/eddce33c9743b468_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<ol start="2">
<li>On the extruder, secure the filament with a pair of pliers while pulling the PTFE tube off the filament using your other hand. <em>You can expect an amount of resistance as the filament tip goes through the last bit of the PTFE tube</em>.<br />
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_unload_fail_bowden_removal.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_unload_fail_bowden_removal-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_unload_fail_bowden_removal-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_unload_fail_bowden_removal-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_unload_fail_bowden_removal-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/MINI_unload_fail_bowden_removal-1536x1024.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="400"></li>
<li>Cut the irregularly shaped filament tip obstructing the unload at a 45-degree angle.</li>
<li>Repeat the unload filament function to completely unload the filament.</li>
<li>Resecure both of the brass fittings and you should be ready to load a new filament.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">If you can not unload the filament from the menu after the procedure, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/idler-screw-tension_177367#mini">loosen the Idler screw on the extruder</a> and pull it out by hand.</div>
<h3>After it is resolved</h3>
<p>If you experience several failed unloads, the extruder's pulley gear (left picture) may have filament dust and debris in its teeth that need to be cleaned. Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-access-and-clean-the-extruder-pulley-mini-mini_126457">How to access and clean the extruder-pulley (MINI/MINI+)</a> for detailed steps. Furthermore, make sure the idler screw is roughly flush with the plastic (right picture).&nbsp;</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 272px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 272px;">
<td style="width: 48.7895%; height: 272px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/d57b6612eb2d579a_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/d57b6612eb2d579a_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/d57b6612eb2d579a_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/d57b6612eb2d579a_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/d57b6612eb2d579a_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
<td style="width: 48.7895%; height: 272px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/8a6b91cea9d34f86_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/8a6b91cea9d34f86_painted-534x400.jpeg 534w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/8a6b91cea9d34f86_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/8a6b91cea9d34f86_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/8a6b91cea9d34f86_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/8a6b91cea9d34f86_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>

Filament failed to unload (MINI/MINI+)

<h3>Why the name spaghetti monster?</h3>
<p>This print issue looks exactly like it sounds, a big mess of "spaghetti" on and around your print<strong>.</strong> It is actually extruded filament, which was misplaced by the print head (extruder) because at a certain point during the print the object below moved or collapsed.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If the first layer isn’t perfect, the chance of any type of print failure increases.</div>
<h3>The most common reasons</h3>
<ol>
<li>The printed object detaches from the print bed during the print</li>
<li>The printed object collapses during the print</li>
<li>An error within the 3D model and/or the sliced file</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/spaghetti-1024-x-577-jpg"></p>
<h3><strong>Troubleshooting</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Check the first layer</strong> – Simply make sure that the first layer is sticking properly to the whole print surface. You can refer to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">First layer issues</a>.</li>
<li><strong>Check the object for errors</strong>&nbsp;– Always check the generated G-code in the&nbsp;<strong>Preview</strong>&nbsp;of our&nbsp;<strong>PrusaSlicer</strong>. PrusaSlicer will also display a small warning triangle next to the model should it find any obvious issues. In case you find any gaps or broken geometry, you can either repair the STL object yourself and check our article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/corrupted-3d-models-for-printing_2205">Corrupted 3D models for printing</a>.</li>
<li><strong>Try to increase the bed temperature</strong> – If you have already experienced this error, try to re-run the print and increase the bed temperature by 5-10 <strong>°</strong>C. This should help with the first layer adhesion. You don’t have to re-slice the object and prepare a new G-code. Just start the print, go to the&nbsp;<em>LCD Menu – Tune – Bed,</em> once the mesh bed leveling is completed<strong>.</strong></li>
</ul>


Spaghetti monster

<p><strong>The print fan is the fan blowing on the printed object, right below the nozzle.</strong> Depending on the material and where you are in the print it might not always spin at full speed or at all. There is also an <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/err-print-fan-error_2159">error in the firmware connected to the fan not spinning</a>. <strong>If you did not receive any error but the fan does not spin, you will probably find the solution in this article.</strong></p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 99.9748%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8176%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/a6b67befac5c804e_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8176%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/e0a20686d90c7cf9_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/e0a20686d90c7cf9_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/e0a20686d90c7cf9_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/e0a20686d90c7cf9_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/e0a20686d90c7cf9_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/e0a20686d90c7cf9_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/e0a20686d90c7cf9_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8176%; text-align: center;"><em>MK2/S, MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+ print fan (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green circle</span>)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8176%; text-align: center;"><em>MINI/MINI+ print fan (<span style="color: #236fa1;">blue arrows</span>)</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="tip-callout">You can easily test the print fan function from the <strong><em>LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Fan speed</em>.&nbsp;</strong>Always test with <strong>at least 50% power</strong> (value 127-255)<strong>.</strong>&nbsp;When you select the speed, confirm by pressing the knob.</div>
<h3>PrusaSlicer settings</h3>
<p><strong>The print fan is never used during the first layer of any material.</strong> It will start from layers 2-4, depending on the material profile selected. For example with PLA, the print fan is spinning at 100% all the time until the print finishes. For ASA and ABS, the fan is turned off completely for the first 4 layers then will only spin at 15-20%, with a slight increase when printing Bridges. At very low speeds the print fan can be almost inaudible.</p>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 99.9748%; height: 287.563px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 269.163px;">
<td style="width: 48.8176%; height: 269.163px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/de476fbc9297e36d_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/de476fbc9297e36d_painted-586x400.jpeg 586w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/de476fbc9297e36d_painted-800x547.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/de476fbc9297e36d_painted-300x205.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/de476fbc9297e36d_painted-768x525.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/de476fbc9297e36d_painted-1536x1049.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/de476fbc9297e36d_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="273"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8176%; height: 269.163px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/7e060bcbaf5f73a2_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/7e060bcbaf5f73a2_painted-586x400.jpeg 586w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/7e060bcbaf5f73a2_painted-800x547.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/7e060bcbaf5f73a2_painted-300x205.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/7e060bcbaf5f73a2_painted-768x525.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/7e060bcbaf5f73a2_painted-1536x1049.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/7e060bcbaf5f73a2_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="273"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 48.8176%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;"><em>PLA settings - Fan always 100%</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8176%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;"><em>ASA settings - Fan only 20% at fewer layers.</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="tip-callout">To see the cooling options in PrusaSlicer you must have it <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">set to Expert mode</a>.</div>
<h3>Further checks</h3>
<p><strong>Make sure that the fan is:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Plugged into the right location</li>
<li>Plugged in in the correct orientation</li>
<li>Plugged in completely and making good electric contact</li>
</ul>
<p>If the fan still doesn't spin up, you can unplug it from the electronics board and test it with the 12V DC (MK2/S) or 5V DC (MK3/S/+) power source. <strong>If the fan spins up with an external power source</strong>, check the electronics for your printer <strong>and its fuses</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/mini-rambo-electronics-wiring-mk2s-mk2-5-mk2-5s_2109">Mini RAMBo electronics wiring (MK2S, MK2.5, MK2.5S)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/einsy-rambo-electronics-wiring-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_2107">Einsy RAMBo electronics wiring (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/buddy-electronics-wiring-mini_128025">Buddy electronics Wiring (MINI)</a></li>
</ul>

Print fan is not spinning

Prusa Connect &amp; PrusaLink

<h3>What happened? </h3>
<p>During the configuration of <strong>Prusa Connect</strong> on the <strong>Original Prusa MINI/+</strong>, <strong>MK4/S</strong>, <strong>MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S</strong> or <strong>XL</strong> an error on this configuration can occur and the printer shows the message "<strong>Registration to Prusa Connect failed due to: ~</strong>". In place of <strong>~</strong>, a text with more details is shown, from the list below. Depending on the specific shown text, there are different causes and fixes. </p>
<p>Error name: Connect Registration Failed</p>
<p>Error code: #12401 (MINI), #13401 (MK4), #26401 (MK4S), #21401 (MK3.9), #23401 (MK3.5), #17401 (XL)</p>
<h4>DNS error</h4>
<p>The printer wasn't able to resolve the <strong>hostname</strong> of the Prusa Connect server into an IP address. The hostname is a unique label assigned to a device connected to a network. </p>
<ul>
<li>The printer is not connected to the network at all.</li>
<li>In case of a <strong>static</strong> configuration (non-DHCP), the <strong>DNS server</strong> is not configured or configured incorrectly.</li>
<li>The local DNS server is currently not working.</li>
<li>The Connect hostname is reconfigured to some that doesn't exist. For example, this can occur if loading a .ini file with an invalid configuration.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Refused</h4>
<p>It's not possible to reach the server on the network level, hence it is not possible to establish a TCP connection. The system is either not answering at all or actively refuses the connection. </p>
<ul>
<li>The internet connection is not working, or a firewall blocks the communication.</li>
<li>In the case of a <strong>static</strong> configuration (non-DHCP), the <strong>gateway </strong>(typically, this is the IP address of the router) is not configured or configured incorrectly. </li>
<li>The Connect server is under maintenance. </li>
<li>Too many TCP connections are open with the printer, for example in PrusaLink. </li>
</ul>
<h4>TLS error</h4>
<p>This message points to an error doing a <strong>SSL/TLS handshake</strong>. This handshake is the process to create a safe and encrypted connection. </p>
<ul>
<li>Time is not synchronized on the printer (MINI/+). The time synchronization occurs for each internet connection, through the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/ntp-server-mini_151132">NTP server</a>. It is possible this might take more time than initially expected, or rarely, that there might be issues with the server. </li>
<li>A restrictive firewall (for example but not limited to a corporate proxy firewall) may restrict an automatic access to the NTP server. In that case, it will be necessary to manually allow the printer to access the NTP server.</li>
<li>Something in the path is trying to tamper with the communication, for example but not limited to an attack. </li>
</ul>
<h4>Unauthorized</h4>
<p>The server claims that the printer is not authorized. The printer is not recognized as an Original Prusa. </p>
<h4>Server error</h4>
<p>The server is returning a <strong>500 Internal Server Error</strong> or similar. The issue is on the Connect side, and is expected to be fixed on its own. </p>
<h4>Internal error</h4>
<p>This error is caused by an issue related to the printer firmware. </p>
<h4>Network error</h4>
<p>Similar to the Refused error, but the connection dropped after it was initialized. </p>
<ul>
<li>Glitchy internet connection.</li>
<li>The <strong>latency</strong> to the Connect servers is too high. A geographic location is very far from our Connect servers can contribute to this cause.</li>
<li>The Connect server is temporarily down.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Protocol error</h4>
<p>The response from the server is not recognized.</p>
<ul>
<li>Bug on the server side. This cause is on our side and expected to be fixed on its own. </li>
<li>Too old firmware on the printer and it's no longer supported.</li>
<li>A misconfiguration from the <strong>.ini file</strong> loaded on the printer, connecting to something different than our Connect server.</li>
</ul>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<h4>DNS error, Refused</h4>
<p>Ensure that the printer is connected to the internet. In case of a static (non-DHCP) connection, ensure the correct settings are there, or test a DHCP connection. Also, check the .ini configuration file, and in case, rewrite the file. </p>
<p>If the previous steps didn't fix the issue, attempt a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/factory-reset-mini_177516">factory reset</a>. </p>
<h4>TLS error</h4>
<p>Reattempt the Connect registration, after the printer is connected to the internet for a few more minutes. </p>
<p>If the previous step didn't fix the issue, double-check your network <strong>firewall</strong>. Some firewalls will need for the NTP server to be allowed manually. The specific steps will depend on your specific firewall, we recommend checking your firewall documentation. </p>
<h4>Unauthorized</h4>
<p>If your printer is not an Original Prusa printer, it cannot use our Prusa Connect service.</p>
<p>In case your printer is an Original Prusa, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784"> re-flash or update its firmware</a>. </p>
<h4>Server error</h4>
<p>A server error indicates an issue from our side. The issue will be fixed on its own, try registering again to Prusa Connect later. </p>
<h4>Internal error</h4>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">Re-flash or update the printer firmware</a>. If this does not solve the issue, take note if the printer might have other issues, even if not directly related. </p>
<h4>Network error</h4>
<p>Ensure that your internet connection is stable and not glitchy. To confirm whether an inconsistent internet connection caused the issue, test another connection, if available, such as a hotspot from your mobile phone. </p>
<h4>Protocol error</h4>
<p>Ensure that the printer is running our latest firmware version. If it is running an old version, update the firmware. Also, check the .ini configuration file, and in case, rewrite the file.</p>


Connect Registration Failed

<p>This guide will help you solve the most common issues with the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusa-connect-and-prusalink-explained_302608">PrusaLink and Prusa Connect</a> on your Original Prusa Printer.</p>
<h3>Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL, MINI/+</h3>
<p><strong>Wi-Fi connection status</strong></p>
<p>For the Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL, MINI+, and MINI models, the Wi-Fi connection status is displayed at the top part of the LCD screen, indicated by an icon:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>White Icon</strong> (<span style="color: #0000ff;"><strong>blue arrow</strong></span> in the image below): Indicates a successful Wi-Fi connection.</li>
<li><strong>Grey Icon</strong>: Wi-Fi is active but not connected to the access point.</li>
</ul>
<p>For detailed connection status, navigate to <strong>Settings &gt; Network &gt; Wi-Fi &gt; Status</strong> in the menu. (<span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>orange arrow</strong></span> in the image below) These statuses provide insights into the Wi-Fi connectivity and troubleshooting steps for common issues:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Connected</strong>: The printer has successfully connected to the network.</li>
<li><strong>Link down</strong>: The printer is connected to the Wi-Fi access point but hasn't obtained an IP address. This could be due to a weak signal, interference, absence of DHCP server on the network, or similar issues. A short "Down" period might occur as part of the normal connection process, so waiting a bit often resolves this.</li>
<li><strong>No AP</strong>: The printer is not connected to any Wi-Fi access point, possibly due to a weak signal, incorrect credentials, or compatibility issues (e.g., the printer’s ESP Wi-Fi module can only connect to 2.4GHz Wi-Fi, not 5GHz-only access points).</li>
<li><strong>ESP error</strong>: Indicates a communication breakdown between the ESP Wi-Fi module and the printer’s main board, potentially due to an ESP firmware crash or a connection issue. The printer will reboot the ESP module automatically to resolve this. If the error recurs, user intervention may be required, such as replugging or reflashing the ESP.</li>
<li><strong>Gone</strong>: The ESP module is either unplugged or does not have an appropriate firmware installed.</li>
<li><strong>Flash ESP</strong>: The connected ESP module has outdated or incorrect firmware and needs updating / reflashing.<br />Select "Setup Wi-Fi Module" item in the same menu. The printer will automatically re-flash the ESP module firmware as a part of the setup wizard.</li>
</ul>
<h4> </h4>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/555e58e4f3b6522b94ec5fdfcc969165_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="PrusaLink Troubleshooting - Review" alt="MK4 / XL Wi-Fi connection status" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>The browser login does not work</h4>
<p>Attempt the login using another browser, some browsers might have issues with the PrusaLink login. </p>
<h4>The printer does not establish a connection (8+ minutes)</h4>
<p>Double-check the credentials in the prusa_printer_settings.ini file, and load them again in the USB drive. In each field, ensure that there is no space before and after the = character. Having the following special characters as part of the SSID would also cause the connection to not be established, make sure they are not part of the SSID: </p>
<ul>
<li>- (Dash)</li>
<li>_ (Underscore)</li>
<li>' (Apostrophe)</li>
<li>. (Dot)</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/782027dd534617cf_painted.png" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>On the <strong>MINI/+</strong> with firmware version up to 4.4x, the prusa_printer_settings.ini file might show an extra row, ensure that this is not changed (key_mgmt=WPA)</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/646e334be3da2dd0_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<h3>Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S</h3>
<h4>Bad X-Api-Key</h4>
<p>If <strong>PrusaLink </strong>is selected in PrusaSlicer, it is necessary to enter an <strong>API key</strong>. For PrusaLink 0.7.0 or higher, the API key can be found in Prusa Connect, in the Settings tab, on older versions it is shown during the PrusaLink Wizard. Alternatively, select <strong>HTTP digest</strong> for authentication and add your PrusaLink username and password.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/be235d272b70fcd5d86012f40daf4598.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="PrusaLink Troubleshooting" alt="" width="600" height="490" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>500 internal server error</h4>
<p>This error is caused by the printer serial number not being written properly on the printer Einsy board EEPROM. The solution is copying the serial number to the Einsy EEPROM, with the following procedure: </p>
<ol>
<li>Connect a power bank, a USB charger, or another source of power (excluding a computer) to the printer USB type B port.</li>
<li>With the printer switched on, press the reset button. </li>
</ol>
<h4>Some options in printer detail are not available</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure the printer is online and ready</li>
<li>If you do not see any options at all, make sure you have the correct version 0.6.1 of the PrusaLink SD card image flashed to your RPi. In case of doubt, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#222170">download the PrusaLink SD card image again</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>“ERR: NO IP” on LCD</h4>
<ul>
<li>Wait for up to 5 minutes, sometimes it shows the IP later.</li>
<li>Make sure you have Wi-Fi within reach and in 2.4 GHz.
<div class="note-callout">5GHz Wi-Fi is not supported.</div>
</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304787">Set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>, making sure you have the name and password entered correctly in Pi Imager settings.</li>
</ul>
<h4>The IP address is not shown</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure the RPi port option in <em>LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; RPi port</em> is ON. </li>
<li>Check that the green LED is on or flashing at the bottom right corner of the RPi.
<div class="warning-callout">If the green LED is not on or flashing, the RPi is not working. Review the soldering of the pins, and make sure the pins are long enough. You can test the Pi by connecting it to USB power, but make sure it is not connected via pins to the Einsy board in that case!</div>
</li>
<li>Check that the SD card can be accessed on your computer. Try a different computer if possible, or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304787">set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Credentials cannot be saved on RPi Imager</h4>
<p>Ensure that the network has a password. A network without a password cannot be saved on the RPi Imager.</p>
<h4>White/blank screen after finishing the Wizard</h4>
<p>Make sure you are logged in on <a href="https://connect.prusa3d.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">connect.prusa3d.com</a>.</p>
<h4>Forgotten login/password to the Link’s website or printer accidentally removed from Connect</h4>
<p>It will be necessary to go through the wizard again. Remove the prusa_printer_settings.ini file from the folder /home/pi, and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304787">set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>.</p>
<h4>Flashing takes a long amount of time (20+ minutes)</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure you are using a Class10 micro SD card or better. Slow microSD cards affect the speed of the flashing.</li>
<li>Some computers, especially old ones, may have a slow SD card reader. Try the USB reader, if available.</li>
</ul>
<h4>The wizard is slow (2+ minutes to load the next page)</h4>
<ul>
<li>PrusaLink might be still loading. Wait for a few minutes and try again.</li>
<li>Make sure your computer and your printer are connected to the very same network. For example, if your computer is connected by cable and your printer is connected via WiFi, it can cause this issue.</li>
</ul>
<h4>The LCD shows “Starting PrusaLink” after 5+ minutes (MK3/S/+)</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure you are using the latest <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads" target="_blank" rel="noopener">firmware version</a>.</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304787">Set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Slow uploading of the G-code to PrusaLink</h4>
<p>The upload speed is limited while printing to prevent slowing down the print.</p>
<h4>The Wizard can’t get the serial number from the printer (Err obtaining SN)</h4>
<p>Make sure you are using the latest <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">firmware version</a>. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer Support</a> if the previous step is not solving the issue. </div>
<h4>Error bad token</h4>
<div>This may occur if you use PrusaLink on a different printer than the one it was set up with. In this case, make a fresh PrusaLink installation.</div>
<h4>Err unsupported FW</h4>
<p>Upgrade the printer to the latest firmware.</p>


PrusaLink Troubleshooting

<p></p>
<p>The Induction auto-leveling sensor is a vital component facilitating the calibration of the MINI and MINI+. It acts like the Z end-stop and is the main component in mesh-bed leveling. You may have either:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>SuperPINDA</strong>: Stands for Super <strong>P</strong>rusa <strong>IND</strong>uction <strong>A</strong>utoleveling sensor, introduced with the MINI+ upgrade.</li>
<li><strong>M.I.N.D.A.</strong>: Stands for <strong>M</strong>ini <strong>IND</strong>uction <strong>A</strong>utoleveling sensor.</li>
</ul>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6e4daeb4ecc6293a_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6e4daeb4ecc6293a_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6e4daeb4ecc6293a_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6e4daeb4ecc6293a_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6e4daeb4ecc6293a_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w" alt="" width="533" height="400"></p>
<div class="tip-callout">Before testing the sensor make sure that you have the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">latest firmware</a>.</div>
<h3>How it works</h3>
<p>Starting from firmware 4.3.0, the MINI has the option to see the readings of the M.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA on the printer's display. Go to <em>Info -&gt; Sensor info</em>, and you will see the M.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA status. Note that the menu will always have M.I.N.D.A. written, even if you have the SuperPINDA.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For more details on the MINI/MINI+ Info-screens, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/info-screens-mini-mini_206605">this article</a></div>
<p>For safety reasons, the M.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA will always trigger "1" if disconnected, to prevent it from crashing the nozzle into the bed, should it fail. Therefore it is a telltale sign of a fault <strong>if the Z-axis will move upwards during the mesh bed leveling or homing</strong>, sometimes going up for a couple of points, then lower back down. This happens as the M.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA loses connection when the print head is in certain positions due to a small break in the wire.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Overtightened zip-ties can damage cables.</div>
<h3>How to test</h3>
<p>Firstly, we need to check if the M.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor works at all. For this test, you need a small and thin metal object (spatula, screwdriver, pliers).</p>
<ol>
<li>Raise the Z-axis about 10 cm above the bed to keep it away from any metal.</li>
<li>In the printer's menu, go to <em>Info -&gt; Sensor Info</em>, and see if the M.I.N.D.A. value is 0, and the red light coming out on top of the M.I.N.D.A. is ON.</li>
<li>Place a metal object below the M.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA. The status on the menu should turn to 1, and the light on top of the sensor should go OFF.</li>
<li>While the metal object is below the M.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA, move the X-axis from side to side and wiggle the cable wrap, and see if the light remains OFF constantly and the status at 1. Any flickering would indicate a fault in the M.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor.</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">Within sensor info, it will say M.I.N.D.A., even though you have the SuperPINDA installed.</div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 32px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 16px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 16px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ef0810c03eb7baf0_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ef0810c03eb7baf0_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ef0810c03eb7baf0_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ef0810c03eb7baf0_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ef0810c03eb7baf0_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w" alt="" width="450" height="450"></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 16px;"><em><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/06f30f6a01e0f066_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/06f30f6a01e0f066_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/06f30f6a01e0f066_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/06f30f6a01e0f066_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/06f30f6a01e0f066_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w" alt="" width="450" height="450"></em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 16px;">
<td style="width: 50%; text-align: center; height: 16px;"><em>Lit LED</em></td>
<td style="width: 50%; text-align: center; height: 16px;"><em>LED not lit, in the presence of metal</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>

M.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor testing (MINI/MINI+)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>While flashing firmware to your printer an error might occur, and the screen will display the following message: "Firmware in the internal flash corrupted!". The system inside the printer consists of two subsystems. First, there is a bootloader, which then allows the firmware (operating system) to load. While flashing the firmware, something went wrong, and the bootloader is now unable to load it. <strong>Don't worry your printer is OK! You just need to reflash the firmware.</strong></p>
<p>Error name: Error!</p>
<p>Error code: #12608</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Each firmware is tested multiple times before being made public, so the problem is most probably in the flashing procedure.</p>
<p>First, place the USB flash drive back into the computer. <strong>Delete both files and copy them again</strong> from the computer to the USB flash drive. Don't rush and wait until the transfer is fully completed. To be 100 % sure, unmount the flash drive in your operating system before physically removing the drive from the computer. <strong>Insert the drive back into the printer and restart it</strong>. This should initiate the flashing procedure. If not, reboot the printer by pressing the reset button directly next to the knob and as soon as the printer starts booting up, press once the rotating knob. This "forces" the printer to look for firmware (more about this <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784#alternative-method-older-firmware-release">alternative method</a>).</p>
<p>In case the troubleshooting in the previous paragraph didn't help. <strong>The problem might be in the USB flash drive. Find any other USB drive</strong> in your household, make sure it is formatted to FAT32, copy both firmware files and <strong>repeat the previously described procedure</strong>.</p>
<p>Are you still having issues? Contact our support team and let them know, that you have tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</p>


Firmware in the internal flash corrupted! #12608 (MINI)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The printer will display <strong>"Thermal runaway"</strong> for the print head if the printer drops the print head temperature by 6 ºC for a long period of time. This temperature drop would usually not be an issue, but if the heat is not recovered after 20 seconds the error will happen. In this case, the printer will stop the heating and display the message on the screen. The printer then waits for the user to inspect all parts and if needed fix the issue.</p>
<p>Error name: Thermal runaway print head</p>
<p>Error code: #12204&nbsp;</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>The error might indicate some issue with the wiring, either the heater or the thermistor cables are possibly damaged.</p>
<h4>A visual inspection</h4>
<p>Before breaking out the multimeter you should check the print head, where the thermistor (purple arrow) and heater (green arrow) reside, that no wires have broken off the sensor or heater themselves. While the printer is turned off, carefully try to move the wires by hand. If any of them have come detached your search is over and the part needs to be changed. <strong>It is not recommended to solder these wires,</strong> moreover, for the thermistor, it will change it's resistance and thus readings. Spare parts can be found in our e-shop, or you can contact <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Support</a> for assistance.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450"></p>
<p>Also, make sure everything is connected to the Buddy mainboard, inside its case. Loosen the one screw securing the cover (circled in the picture below), remove the top cable cover and flip it open to reveal the board.&nbsp;</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-1536x1152.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450"></p>
<p>Check that all the connectors are secure in their sockets, according to the picture below. Focus on the thermistor and heater cables (blue arrows). Though unlikely, rough shipping or handling could have shaken the heater or thermistor cables loose.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ccac238e5cb4e570_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ccac238e5cb4e570_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ccac238e5cb4e570_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ccac238e5cb4e570_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ccac238e5cb4e570_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ccac238e5cb4e570_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" width="600" height="450" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h4>Checking the resistance</h4>
<p>The table below describes the correct resistance for each part, as well as what scale you should set your meter to. <strong>We have another more in-depth guide on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/multimeter-usage_2117">Multimeter usage</a>.</strong> All thermistors are rated to be <strong>100 kΩ at 25 °C.</strong> To be realistic, with a varying temperature between 20 °C and 30 <strong>°</strong>C, <strong>you can expect a wider range of readings (~85-125 kΩ) than with the heater.</strong></p>
<div class="tip-callout">There can be micro-fractures in the cable, breaking the connections only at certain positions. Therefore, try to move the cable a bit while doing the measurement and see if the value changes drastically.</div>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<h5>Part</h5>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<h5>Resistance</h5>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<h5>Multimeter scale</h5>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<p>Thermistors (Bed and hotend)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<p><strong>[80 kΩ - 125 kΩ]</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<p>200 kΩ</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<p>Hotend heater</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<p><strong>[12.3 Ω - 15.1 Ω]</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<p>200 Ω</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>The part should be cold (room temperature) and unplugged when measuring the resistance!</strong></div>
<h4>Where to measure</h4>
<p>For every component, there are several options, our main focus will be on the connectors. The measurement appears on the multimeter LCD as soon as the measurement probes touch the component. To obtain the correct and relevant values, this is where you need to apply the probes:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Thermistors:</strong> metal inserts in plastic connectors</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 330px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-300x217.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-554x400.jpg 554w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-768x554.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-800x577.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor.jpg" data-hd-height="330px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Heater cables:</strong> screws holding the cables in the connector</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 320px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-300x209.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-574x400.jpg 574w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-768x536.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-800x558.jpg 800w" data-hd-height="320px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h3>Parts replacement guide(s)</h3>
<p>In case you find some parts are faulty, please order them using our e-shop, then follow the service guide(s):</p>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-thermistor-mini-mini_147001">How to replace a hotend thermistor (MINI/MINI+)</a></p>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-heater-mini-mini_155068">How to replace a hotend heater (MINI/MINI+)</a></p>


Thermal runaway print head #12204 (MINI)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The message <strong>"Preheat error print head"</strong> is shown when the printer is unable to heat up the hotend more than 2 ºC for 20 seconds. The printer starts a safety feature, which instantly kills the heating process and displays the message on the screen. The printer then waits for the user to inspect all parts and if needed fix the issue.</p>
<p>Error name: Preheat error print head</p>
<p>Error code: #12202</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Most often, this error happens due to wiring damage or connection issue on the hotend heater cable. Less often might be from the hotend thermistor wiring and connection as well.&nbsp;</p>
<h4>A visual inspection</h4>
<p>Before breaking out the multimeter you should check the print head, where the thermistor (purple arrow) and heater (green arrow) resides, that no wires have broken off the sensor or heater themselves. While the printer is turned off, carefully try to move the wires by hand. If any of them have come detached your search is over and the part needs to be changed. <strong>It is not recommended to solder these wires,</strong> moreover, for the thermistor, it will change it's resistance and thus readings. Spare parts can be found in our e-shop, or you can contact <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer support</a> for assistance.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450"></p>
<p>Also, make sure everything is connected to the Buddy mainboard, inside its case. Loosen the one screw securing the cover (circled in the picture below), remove the top cable cover and flip it open to reveal the board.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-1536x1152.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450"></p>
<p>Check that all the connectors are secure in their sockets, according to the picture below. Focus on the thermistor and heater cables (blue arrows). Though unlikely, rough shipping or handling could have shaken the heater or thermistor cables loose.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ccac238e5cb4e570_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ccac238e5cb4e570_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ccac238e5cb4e570_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ccac238e5cb4e570_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ccac238e5cb4e570_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ccac238e5cb4e570_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" width="600" height="450" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h4>Checking the resistance</h4>
<p>The table below describes the correct resistance for each part, as well as what scale you should set your meter to. <strong>We have another more in-depth guide on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/multimeter-usage_2117">Multimeter usage</a>.</strong> All thermistors are rated to be <strong>100 kΩ at 25 °C.</strong> To be realistic, with a varying temperature between 20 °C and 30 <strong>°</strong>C, <strong>you can expect a wider range of readings (~85-125 kΩ).</strong></p>
<div class="tip-callout">There can be micro-fractures in the cable, breaking the connections only at certain positions. Therefore, try to move the cable a bit while doing the measurement and see if the value changes drastically.</div>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<h5>Part</h5>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<h5>Resistance</h5>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<h5>Multimeter scale</h5>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<p>Thermistors (Bed and hotend)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<p><strong>[80 kΩ - 125 kΩ]</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<p>200 kΩ</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<p>Hotend heater</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<p><strong>[12.3 Ω - 15.1 Ω]</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<p>200 Ω</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>The part should be cold (room temperature) and unplugged when measuring the resistance!</strong></div>
<h4>Where to measure</h4>
<p>For every component, there are several options, our main focus will be on the connectors. The measurement appears on the multimeter LCD as soon as the measurement probes touch the component. To obtain the correct and relevant values, this is where you need to apply the probes:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Thermistors:</strong> metal inserts in plastic connectors</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 330px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-300x217.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-554x400.jpg 554w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-768x554.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-800x577.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor.jpg" data-hd-height="330px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Heater cables:</strong> screws holding the cables in the connector</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 320px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-300x209.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-574x400.jpg 574w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-768x536.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-800x558.jpg 800w" data-hd-height="320px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h3>Parts replacement guide(s)</h3>
<p>In case you find some parts are faulty, please order them using our e-shop, then follow the service guide(s):</p>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-thermistor-mini-mini_147001">How to replace a hotend thermistor (MINI/MINI+)</a></p>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-heater-mini-mini_155068">How to replace a hotend heater (MINI/MINI+)</a></p>


Preheat error print head #12202 (MINI)

<p>When purchasing the Original Prusa MINI+, kit or semi-assembled, there is an option to add a filament sensor to the printer. It can also be purchased separately later.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Mini_filsensor.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Mini_filsensor-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Mini_filsensor-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Mini_filsensor-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Mini_filsensor-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Mini_filsensor-1536x1152.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="500" height="375"></p>
<p>This sensor assembly uses an IR sensor which is triggered by a mechanical lever. The electronics are the same as in the filament sensor assembly of the Original Prusa MK2.5S, MK3S, and MK3S+.</p>
<p>The sensor assembly is attached to the PTFE tube that leads into the extruder. If the filament runs out, the printer will pause your print, unload the remaining filament, and wait for a new filament to be loaded.</p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Make sure the filament sensor is activated!</strong> Go in the printer menu to Settings -&gt; Fil. sens. [On/Off]. Settings can reset during a firmware update or factory reset.</div>
<h3>How to test the sensor</h3>
<p>When the IR filament sensor is installed, you can see its status in the printer's menu under <em>Info -&gt; Sensor info:</em></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>1 - Filament loaded</strong></li>
<li><strong>0 - Filament unloaded</strong></li>
<li><strong>N/A - Sensor is not activated or installed incorrectly.</strong></li>
</ul>
<p>If the sensor has been installed, activated and the status remains N/A, check the IR filament sensor cable connections on the sensor and on the Buddy board:</p>
<ul>
<li>The cable connector that goes into the board has a safety latch on one side. Make sure that this is locked in place when connected to the board. Check if the black wire is towards the Z-tower (front of the printer) and the red wire is towards the PSU connector (back of the printer).</li>
<li>On the sensor side of the cable, make sure the latch faces the same direction as the components on the chip.</li>
<li>Confirm the sequence of colors and their direction according to the pictures below.</li>
<li>Make sure the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">firmware is the latest version</a>.</li>
</ul>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8561%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/af7301636d4c2f93_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/af7301636d4c2f93_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/af7301636d4c2f93_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/af7301636d4c2f93_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/af7301636d4c2f93_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/af7301636d4c2f93_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8561%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/1178b81d07736771_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/1178b81d07736771_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/1178b81d07736771_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/1178b81d07736771_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/1178b81d07736771_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/1178b81d07736771_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Filament sensor detected, but not working</h3>
<p>In case the printer does not detect a filament runout, there might be two issues:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>The lever is stuck</strong></li>
<li><strong>Malfunctioning sensor</strong></li>
</ul>
<p>To access the sensor for testing, unscrew the two M3x12 screws on each end of the sensor cover (<span style="color: #236fa1;">blue circles</span>).</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/83f7b389420a06cb_painted.jpeg" width="500"></p>
<h3>Lever is stuck</h3>
<p>The end of the lever needs to be between the plastic parts of the sensor while the status is 0. Move the lever by hand and see if it moves easily. In case it does not move, loosen the middle screw (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple circle</span>).</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/c64279771d39cd8f_painted.jpeg" width="500"></p>
<h3>Malfunctioning sensor</h3>
<p><strong>Correct behavior:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>When the lever is in the triggered position (pictured above), the status within <em>LCD menu -&gt; Info -&gt; Sensor info</em> should be 0.</li>
<li>When the lever is in the lowered position (when the filament is loaded), with the printed lever outside the IR sensor, the status within <em>LCD menu -&gt; Info -&gt; Sensor info</em> should be 1.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Malfunction:</strong></p>
<p>If the status is either 0 or 1, regardless of the lever position, the sensor is malfunctioning.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can test this by manually triggering the sensor with an Allen key or a black piece of filament, by inserting it between the plastic parts of the sensor (transparent filaments will not work for this).</div>

IR Filament Sensor Troubleshooting (MINI/MINI+)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The printer will display "Mintemp error" for the print head if the printer's hotend temperature goes below 15 ºC at any point. In this case, the printer will stop the heating and display the message on the screen. The printer then waits for the user to inspect all parts and if needed fix the issue.</p>
<p>Error name: Mintemp error print head&nbsp;</p>
<p>Error code: #12208</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>The error might indicate some issue with the wiring, either the heater or the thermistor cables are possibly damaged.</p>
<h4>A visual inspection</h4>
<p>Check on the hotend, where the thermistor (purple arrow) and heater (green arrow) reside, that no wires have broken off the sensor or heater themselves. While the printer is turned off, carefully try to move the wires by hand. If any of them have come detached your search is over and the part needs to be changed. <strong>It is not recommended to solder these wires,</strong> moreover, for the thermistor, it will change its resistance and thus readings. Spare parts can be found in our e-shop, or you can contact <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Support</a> for assistance.</p>
<p>Try preheating the hotend in <em>LCD-menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperatures -&gt; Nozzle</em> to 250 ºC. After the temperature is reached, move the cables behind the print head by hand to see if the error will appear. In case the LCD main screen shows 0/0 in the hotend temperature, check the cable connections to the Buddy board.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5302a59e62157828_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="560" height="420"></p>
<p>Loosen the one screw securing the cover (circled in the picture below) and flip it open to reveal the board.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-1536x1152.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450"></p>
<p>Check that all the connectors are secure in their sockets, according to the picture below. Focus on the thermistor and heater cables (blue for the print head). Though unlikely, rough shipping or handling could have shaken the heater or thermistor cables loose.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/841d3de6253e5ada_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/841d3de6253e5ada_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/841d3de6253e5ada_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/841d3de6253e5ada_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/841d3de6253e5ada_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/841d3de6253e5ada_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450"></p>
<h4>Checking the resistance</h4>
<p>The table below describes the correct resistance for each part, as well as what scale you should set your meter to. <strong>We have another more in-depth guide on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/multimeter-usage_2117">Multimeter usage</a>.</strong> All thermistors are rated to be <strong>100 kΩ at 25 °C.</strong> To be realistic, with a varying temperature between 20 °C and 30 <strong>°</strong>C, <strong>you can expect a wider range of readings (~85-125 kΩ) than with the heater.</strong></p>
<div class="tip-callout">There can be micro-fractures in the cable, breaking the connections only at certain positions. Therefore, try to move the cable a bit while doing the measurement and see if the value changes drastically.</div>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<h5>Part</h5>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<h5>Resistance</h5>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<h5>Multimeter scale</h5>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<p>Thermistors (Bed and hotend)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<p><strong>[80 kΩ - 125 kΩ]</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<p>200 kΩ</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">Hotend heater</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<p><strong>[12.3 Ω - 15.1 Ω]</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<p>200 Ω</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>The part should be cold (room temperature) and unplugged when measuring the resistance!</strong></div>
<h4>Where to measure</h4>
<p>For every component, there are several options, our main focus will be on the connectors. The measurement appears on the multimeter LCD as soon as the measurement probes touch the component. To obtain the correct and relevant values, this is where you need to apply the probes:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Thermistors:</strong> metal inserts in plastic connectors</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 330px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-300x217.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-554x400.jpg 554w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-768x554.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-800x577.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor.jpg" data-hd-height="330px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Heater cables:</strong> screws holding the cables in the connector</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 320px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-300x209.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-574x400.jpg 574w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-768x536.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-800x558.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater.jpg" data-hd-height="320px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h3>Parts replacement guide(s)</h3>
<p>In case you find some parts are faulty, please order them using our e-shop, then follow the service guide(s):</p>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-thermistor-mini-mini_147001">How to replace a hotend thermistor (MINI/MINI+)</a></p>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-heater-mini-mini_155068">How to replace a hotend heater (MINI/MINI+)</a></p>


Mintemp error print head #12208 (MINI)

<p>During normal function, your printer saves statistics, calibration data, and personalized settings, even after it is turned off. If you feel like you changed settings that have negatively affected your 3D printer, you can always revert to factory default values and try again. </p>
<div class="note-callout">Doing a factory reset will clear statistics data, like total printing time and filament use.</div>
<h3>How to factory reset</h3>
<p>Factory Reset can be done via <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; System -&gt; Factory Reset</em>. </p>
<p>Starting firmware 4.6.1 there are two options:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Reset Settings &amp; Calibrations</strong> - this option deletes all changes done by the user and reverts the system to its original state. For most of the cases, this is a sufficient method. Technically speaking only the EEPROM with user stored data is deleted. Once, the reset is done, the printer will boot to language selection, followed by the calibration wizard.</li>
<li><strong>Hard reset (USB with FW needed)</strong> - due to the complex partition layout, the firmware stores its settings not only in the EEPROM but also on the XFLASH. In some edge cases, it might be necessary to delete both of these. Once this reset is done, the user must insert a USB drive with <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-core-one-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl_453086">firmware</a> as some parts of the XFLASH will be created again from scratch.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Flashing firmware</h3>
<p>If you see any inconsistent behavior we recommend also flashing the firmware.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-core-one-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl_453086">CORE One, MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">MINI/+</a></li>
</ul>
<p>A factory reset followed by flashing the firmware and recalibrating will resolve most firmware issues you may encounter. </p>


Factory reset (CORE One, MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, MINI/+, XL)

<ul>
<li>Improved homing algorithm</li>
<li>Improved dialogue for color change (M600)</li>
<li>Improved Wizard stability</li>
<li>Filament sensor ON/OFF setting kept after a reset</li>
</ul>


4.0.1

<ul>
<li>Minor update: Support for an MK3S LCD encoder</li>
</ul>


4.0.2

<ul>
<li>Jerk speeds fixed</li>
</ul>
<p>Contains all features and fixes introduced in the <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/releases/tag/v4.0.3" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">previous release,</a> such as:</p>
<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0">
<li>Support for an MK3S encoder</li>
<li>Mesh Bed Levelling fixed</li>
<li>Fixed loaded filament information</li>
<li>Automatic filament sensor detection</li>
<li>Improved filament changes (M600)</li>
</ul>


4.0.4

<ul>
<li>Prusa Connect Local (WebUI)</li>
<li>Stop print function fixed</li>
<li>The printer is now locked (except Tune menu) during Remote print via OctoPrint (safety reasons)</li>
<li>Adjustment to Mesh Bed Levelling</li>
<li>The new color scheme for active button</li>
<li>Improved movement near the axis end</li>
<li>Revised file sorting</li>
<li>Adjustments to e-steps</li>
<li>Improved Z-axis self-test</li>
<li>Random screen freezing fixed</li>
<li>New EEPROM implementation</li>
</ul>


4.0.5

<ul>
<li>Updated texts to match the latest firmware</li>
</ul>


1.03

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0">
<li>Automatic print pause after an accidental USB drive removal. Resume print option is available after the USB drive is re-inserted.</li>
<li>Printer acoustic signalization - you can choose the level in Settings -&gt; Sound mode</li>
<li>Support for NTP servers for getting the current time (internet connection required)</li>
<li>Filament load/unload procedure adjusted</li>
<li>Preheat function improved</li>
<li>Tune menu extended with "LAN settings", "Version info" and "Sound mode" submenus</li>
<li>File browser improved</li>
<li>Horizontal scrolling text function added</li>
<li>Octoprint screen further improved</li>
<li>Faster print head heat-up process</li>
<li>Fixed bugs and minor improvements (see the full changelog)</li>
</ul>


4.1.0

<ul>
<li><strong>Firmware localized into 7 languages&nbsp;</strong>(English, French, Italian, German, Spanish, Czech, Polish)</li>
<li>New sound volume option</li>
<li>Pause print from USB (M601) fixed</li>
<li>Printer beeping in silent mode fixed</li>
</ul>


4.2.0

<ul>
<li>Random BSOD bug fixed</li>
</ul>


4.2.1

<ul>
<li>Changes related to MINI+ release</li>
</ul>


1.0.7

<ul>
<li>New graphics for Live adjust Z</li>
<li>Added support for PVB material</li>
<li>QR Error codes</li>
<li>Print sheet profiles</li>
<li>New fan management</li>
<li>Improved selftest and wizard</li>
<li>First layer calibration updated</li>
<li>The improved filament change process</li>
<li>More improvements and bug fixes</li>
</ul>


4.3.0

<ul>
<li>X-axis error during Wizard fixed</li>
<li>Safety timer not activated fixed</li>
</ul>


4.3.1

<ul>
<li>PrusaSlicer 2.3.3
<ul>
<li>Patch release - fixing the bug in handling FDM multi-material project and configuration files</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>


2.3.3

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0">
<li data-stringify-indent="0">Upgraded USB drivers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0">Upgraded Newlib library</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0">FatFs library upgrade</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0">Saving of self-test results</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0">Fixed bugs</li>
</ul>


4.3.2

<ul>
<li>Support for custom extruders</li>
<li>Thermal regulation for custom extruders</li>
<li>Extended print statistics</li>
<li>Nozzle pressurizing improved</li>
<li>Translations updated</li>
<li>BSOD caused by a broken thermistor fixed</li>
<li>Print timer fixed</li>
</ul>


4.3.3

<ul>
<li>Support for PrusaSlicer 2.4</li>
<li>Time Zones extended</li>
<li>Satin sheet profiles added</li>
</ul>


4.3.4

<ul>
<li>Multi-material painting</li>
<li>Improved supports and bridging</li>
<li>Shape gallery</li>
<li>Fuzzy skin</li>
<li>Windows dark mode</li>
<li>Brim for individual objects</li>
<li>Negative volumes</li>
<li>Automatic color change for logos and signs</li>
<li>Tip of the day notifications</li>
<li>Model simplification</li>
<li>Support for 3DLabPrint airplane models</li>
<li>New 3rd party printer profiles</li>
<li>…and more!</li>
</ul>


2.4.0

<ul>
<li>G-Code Substitutions</li>
<li>Added profiles for Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0</li>
<li>Added Artillery Hornet profile</li>
<li>Added RatRig V-Core and V-Minion bundle</li>
<li>Added Jubilee bundle</li>
</ul>


2.4.1

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0" data-border="0">
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Updated translations</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Snapmaker printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Zonestar printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.4.2

<ul>
<li>Updates related to Printables.com</li>
<li>Several small changes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

1.09

<ul>
<li>New perimeter generator Arachne</li>
<li>STEP file format support</li>
<li>Lightning infill</li>
<li>Improved seam placement based on the visibility</li>
<li>Pressure equalizer</li>
<li>New printer and material profiles</li>
<li>Many bugfixes and smaller improvements</li>
<li>Offline unattended installation for mass deploys (in Drivers &amp; Apps package installator).</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.5.0

<ul>
<li>Support for Wi-Fi (ESP-01 &amp; ESP-01S)</li>
<li>PrusaLink updated</li>
<li>Network menu updated</li>
<li>Networking improvements</li>
<li>GUI improvements</li>
<li>Selftest improvements</li>
<li>Known issues</li>
<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

4.4.0


<ul>
<li>Wi-Fi auto-reconnect fixed</li>



<li>Improved Wi-Fi (ESP) flashing</li>



<li>RTC fixed</li>



<li>Additional hotend protection</li>



<li>UI fixes</li>



<li>New error code URL</li>



<li>Improved bootstrap</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


4.4.1


<ul>
<li>Improved 'Monotonic lines' fill pattern</li>



<li>Improved Acceleration control</li>



<li>Specific object arrangement for XL</li>



<li>Original Prusa XL profiles</li>



<li>Updated translations</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.5.1


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4 profiles</li>
</ul>


2.5.2


<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


2.6.0


<ul>
<li>New Arrange tool options</li>



<li>New Cut tool options</li>



<li>Per-symbol text projection on surface</li>



<li>Interlocking of painted areas for MMU printing</li>
</ul>


2.6.1


<ul>
<li>New SVG support</li>



<li>Binary G-Code (.bgcode) export support + conversion</li>



<li>Arc fitting support </li>
</ul>


2.7.0


<ul>
<li>Printing speed boost with Input Shaper and Pressure Advance (XL and MINI)</li>



<li>Major updates to network code; Instant Printing feature</li>



<li>Major updates to Prusa Connect and network communication</li>



<li>Introducing a new efficient open-source Binary G-code format</li>



<li>New useful pre-print screen for XL Multi-Tool printers</li>
</ul>


5.1.0


<ul>
<li>Binary G-code settings</li>



<li>Wipe tower weight</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.7.1


<ul>
<li>Cancel Object (MINI)</li>



<li>Sending crash dumps to Tech support</li>



<li>New bootloader 2.3.4</li>



<li>Firmware flashing updated</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>



<p></p>


5.1.2


<ul>
<li>Smarter color painting</li>



<li>Improved Color change</li>



<li>Ramping travel moves</li>



<li>SLA material overrides</li>
</ul>


2.7.2


<ul>
<li>Improvements to multi-material printing</li>



<li>Vase mode smoothing</li>



<li>Support for 3MF files generated in BambuStudio</li>



<li>Metadata with boundary polygon of each object</li>
</ul>


2.7.3


<ul>
<li>Objects from 3MFs generated by BambuStudio now retain multimaterial painting when loaded</li>



<li>Fixed a bug where downloading files from Printables did not work when enabled in Preferences</li>
</ul>


2.7.4


<ul>
<li>Stealth mode</li>



<li>Time Zone settings updated</li>



<li>Bed Level Correction</li>



<li>Revised Control menu</li>



<li>MCU temperature</li>



<li>Improvements by the Prusa community</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


6.0.0


<ul>
<li>Acceleration limit restored (MK4, MK3.9, MINI)</li>



<li></li>
</ul>


6.0.1


<ul>
<li>Improvements by Prusa community</li>
</ul>


6.0.2


<ul>
<li>Screenshot procedure fix (MINI)</li>
</ul>


6.0.3


<ul>
<li>Prusa Connect integration</li>



<li>Prusa Account integration</li>



<li>Improved UI</li>



<li>Improved G-code Viewer</li>



<li>New system profile updating system</li>



<li>Single Perimeter for top and bottom layers</li>



<li>Extended SLA layer separation configuration</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.0

6.0.4


<ul>
<li>Support for MK3.9S and MK3.5S printers</li>



<li>Numeric keyboard</li>



<li>Custom names for steel sheet</li>



<li>User-configurable hostname</li>



<li>Binary G-code check</li>



<li>ESP firmware flash during boot (MINI, MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S)</li>



<li>New bootloader 2.3.5</li>



<li>Network Status screen</li>



<li>Steel sheet name in footer (MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Powered Z-motors during calibration procedure (MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S)</li>



<li>Default nozzle diameter set to 0.4 (XL)</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


6.1.2


<ul>
<li>Improved menu bar, the menu no longer hides under a button</li>



<li>Two new parameters (Abrasive material and High flow nozzle) for G-Code checks</li>



<li>Improved automatic orientation of bridges</li>



<li>Number of bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.1


<ul>
<li>Multiple beds and bulk export</li>



<li>Scarf seams</li>



<li>Printables integration</li>



<li>Paint-on fuzzy skin</li>



<li>Improvements in painting tools and multi-material slicing</li>



<li>Basic support for printing with different nozzle diameters</li>
</ul>


2.9.0


<ul>
<li>Added an option to save printer logs to a text file</li>



<li>Expanded GPIO functionality (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Toolhead and hardware menu overhaul</li>



<li>Improved filament management</li>



<li>“Set Ready” button</li>



<li>Connect header status icon</li>



<li>Nozzle information for Prusa Connect</li>



<li>Mapping screen from Prusa Connect</li>



<li>Japanese language support on MINI</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa MINI+