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<p>Every FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) printer requires a First Layer Calibration, which <strong>sets the vertical "Z" distance between the nozzle and the print surface</strong>. Sometimes this value needs <strong>a slight adjustment</strong> and for this situation, there is an option called "<strong>Live adjust Z"</strong> <em>(as you are mostly tuning it live during the first layers of your print).</em> The reason for adjusting the distance is to mostly <strong>provide better adhesion</strong> of the extruded filament.</p>
<h3><strong>How does it work?</strong></h3>
<p>It is important to know the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>the default value before the First layer calibration starts at zero (0.000) for all printers</li>
<li>to get <strong>closer to the print surface</strong>, turn the knob <strong>counter-clockwise</strong> and further <strong>increase the negative value</strong> (e.g. -0.500 =&gt; -0.600 =&gt; -0.700...)</li>
<li>to get <strong>further from the print surface</strong>, turn the knob <strong>clockwise</strong> and continue <strong>lowering the negative value</strong> (e.g. -0.700 =&gt; -0.600 =&gt; -0.500...)</li>
</ul>
<p>The values of the <em>Live adjust Z</em> are typically in the range of -1.500 to -0.200. Going above zero into the positive values is not possible, this indicates either an issue with the measuring sensor (M.I.N.D.A., P.I.N.D.A., SuperPINDA) or incorrect alignment.</p>
<p>The correctly assembled print head has <strong>the sensor always slightly above the nozzle</strong>, never at an equal level or below the nozzle (see the picture below). <em>The exact position can slightly vary, use the last chapter of the assembly manual of your printer to set the rough distance.</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XYZ-Calibration-MK3-and-MK3S-04.jpeg" alt="" width="718" height="350" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S extruder</em></p>
<h3>Live Adjust Z (while printing)</h3>
<p>The most common approach is to perform the <em>Live adjust Z</em> during the print. Go to <em>LCD Menu -&gt;</em> <span style="color: #000000;" data-hd-color="#000000" data-hd-highlight=""><em>Live adjust Z.</em></span> This will show the <span style="color: #000000;" data-hd-color="#000000" data-hd-highlight=""><em>Live adjust Z</em></span> value you have set in the First layer calibration. From here you can adjust it by rotating the knob.</p>
<p>The <strong>Original Prusa MK4</strong> and <strong>Original Prusa XL</strong> are equipped with a loadcell, which will calibrate the first layer automatically. In case you would still like to fine-tune it, you can long-press the knob while the first layer is printed.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-600x194.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-800x258.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-300x97.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-768x248.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1.jpg 1600w" width="600" height="194" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S menu</em></p>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">PRO tip: shortcut from the main screen, while printing the first few layers press and hold the knob for a few seconds to access the <em>Live adjust Z</em> screen.</div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Adjusting Live adjust Z value while printing is permanent</strong>, not only for the ongoing print! The new value will also remain after you turn OFF the printer.</div>
</div>
<div>In the picture below you can see examples of different <em>Live adjust Z</em> values. If the nozzle is too high from the surface, the filament won't stick properly (left), if the nozzle is too close to the surface, the filament won't be able to "flow out" leading to a potential clog of the nozzle (right).</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg" alt="" width="1132" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Live Adjust Z (before the print)</h3>
<p>You can also change the value while the printer is at rest from <em>LCDMenu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Live adjust Z.</em> You will see the value set previously during the First layer calibration, and from here you can adjust it by rotating the knob.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-600x194.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-800x258.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-300x97.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-768x248.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2.jpg 1600w" width="600" height="194" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S menu</em></p>
<p><strong>The Live adjust Z should be used only to fine-tune the distance</strong>. For example, PETG and other high-temperature materials require to be squished in the surface slightly more as they tend to warp (lift up), compared to the PLA. If you have replaced the sensor or disassembled the print head (extruder) you should run the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> instead.</p>
<div> </div>


Live adjust Z

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<p>The Original Prusa FDM printers have a sensor to detect distance from the print surface. During a calibration, and before each print, the sensor will go through a number of points, in a grid pattern, spread across the build-plate (whether it is a powder-coated or smooth PEI sheet does not matter), and measures the distance to the sheet. These points are interpolated and used to create a virtual mesh of the bed. During printing, if the bed is slightly warped, the sensor will still precisely follow the surface according to its measured mesh</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-300x170.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-600x341.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-768x436.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-800x455.jpg 800w" width="614" height="348" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Original Prusa MK2/2.5/S, MK3/S/+</h3>
<p>These printers are equipped with a PINDA sensor, apart from the MK3S+, which is equipped with a SuperPINDA sensor.</p>
<p>The StallGuard for the Z-axis is active during the mesh bed leveling. In case the nozzle crashes into the bed before the PINDA sensor triggers, the calibration process is interrupted and the user is asked to check the nozzle for any kind of debris.</p>
<h4>Mesh bed leveling settings</h4>
<div class="note-callout">This feature is available starting from firmware 3.7.0.</div>
<p>The Mesh bed leveling settings can be found within <em>Settings - Mesh bed Leveling</em>, on the LCD menu. There you have the following options:</p>
<ul>
<li>Mesh (3x3 - 7x7)</li>
<li>Z-probe nr. (1 - 3 - 5)</li>
<li>Magnet comp. (ON / OFF)</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Mesh:</strong> The default grid density is 3x3 (9 points). However, if you still experience uneven first layer adhesion, you can increase the density in Settings - Mesh bed leveling - Mesh to 7x7 (49 points).</p>
<p><strong>Z-probe nr.:</strong> Changing the Z-sensor nr. you change how many times will each point be measured. We suggest either 3 or 5 measurements per point since the final value is calculated as an average value. Changing these settings affects how long will the Mesh bed leveling procedure takes to complete.</p>
<p><strong>Magnet comp.:</strong> With 7x7 Mesh bed leveling, you can choose whether or not to use Magnets compensation. 3 of the 49 points are so close to magnets, that the reading can be off by as much as 80μm (microns). Magnet compensation ignores readings from these 3 points and calculates them from the surrounding points. <strong>We suggest leaving this function on.</strong></p>
<h4>Enforcing the Z-calibration</h4>
<p>If the mesh bed leveling is interrupted during the procedure, before a print, a message will appear on the screen stating "Enforcing the Z-calibration" and the printer will re-home and run through the procedure again. This can occur if there is debris on the nozzle pushing the bed down when probing, or if you touch and press the bed while it is probing. This will bring the deviance above a certain threshold and it will simply make another attempt to run the Mesh Bed Leveling. This is to avoid starting it from the menu again if the problem was simply an accident. If the problem remains, it will repeat this procedure three times before canceling the print.</p>
<h4>Troubleshooting</h4>
<p>Please see our dedicated article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/p-i-n-d-a-superpinda-sensor-testing_2091">P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA Sensor testing</a> to resolve any issue.</p>
<h3>Original Prusa MINI/+</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MINI is equipped with a M.I.N.D.A. sensor, while the Original Prusa MINI+ is equipped with a SuperPINDA sensor. The grid density is 4x4. </p>
<h4>Troubleshooting</h4>
<p>Please see our dedicated article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/m-i-n-d-a-superpinda-sensor-testing-mini-mini_134021">M.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor testing (MINI/MINI+)</a> to resolve any issue.</p>
<h3>Original Prusa XL and Original Prusa MK4</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa XL and the Original Prusa MK4 are equipped with a <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/preview/article/loadcell-xl"><strong>loadcell</strong></a>, to detect that the nozzle is close enough to the steel sheet for printing, and to avoid damage that would be caused by the nozzle digging into the steel sheet. </p>
<p>Before a print, the nozzle will check the distance to the print sheet in several places to create a virtual height map of the surface. The points are measured within the area of the chosen print. </p>


Mesh bed leveling

<p>The materials used for FFF 3D printing are mostly hygroscopic. This means that they readily attract water molecules from the environment they are in. When used for printing, a material that has gathered humidity might not behave as expected.</p>
<h3>Prevention</h3>
<p>Some filaments are more hygroscopic than others. When using a new material, make sure to research its properties and the best way to store it. It is best to avoid having to dry the filament if possible.</p>
<p>It is best to store your filaments in a closed space or box, with some desiccant material in it. If you have limited availability for this type of storage, prioritize storing filaments that are more hygroscopic. PLA, for example, doesn't change properties too much by uptaking humidity, whereas Polyamide is affected quite significantly.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">To prevent any issues with the highly hygroscopic materials (polyamid, polypropylen, PVA, BVOH, ...) it is recommended to either ensure they were stored in a dry environment or dry them before every print.</div>
<p>You can purchase a box with the specific purpose of keeping the filament dry, or <a href="https://blog.prusa3d.com/dryboxes-and-alternative-spool-holders-not-only-for-multimaterial-upgrade_30525/">make your own</a>.</p>
<p>Another popular solution to keep your filament dry is using vacuum bags for storage. There are bags specific for filaments, but you can use any that will fit a filament inside. Keep a desiccant in the bag when storing the filament.</p>
<h3>How to recognize if the filament has gathered humidity</h3>
<p>In case a material is affected by humidity, the general first signal will be a poor quality of the model surface.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some filaments are naturally more stringy than others. Make sure to compare different results from your prints, and check our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/stringing-and-oozing_1805">Stringing and oozing</a> guide.</div>
<p>In some cases, the high content of water in filament can cause low layer adhesion, blobs on the prints, and bubbling and smoke during extrusion.</p>
<p>Polyamide, PVA, and TPU (Flex) are filaments more commonly in need of drying than more popular filaments like PLA.</p>
<h3>Prusament black spool</h3>
<p>The black plastic sides of Prusament spools are firmly pressed into the cardboard cylinder. The plastic sides expand with rising temperature and cause the expansion of the cardboard center as well. When the temperature decreases plastic shrinks back to its original shape but the cardboard stays expanded which causes loosen spool. <strong>The spools can be heated up safely up to 45 ºC without this happening.</strong></p>
<p>Alternatively, it is possible to add a screw holding the two sides of the plastic together. The screw needs to have a thread of at least 65 mm. In the pictures, we use an M4x65 screw, tightened by a 3.5mm Allen key.</p>
<p>After heating up the spool to above 45 ºC, the screw will need to be in the spool until the end of its use, or else the spool will fall apart.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-800x534.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Prusament Grey spool</h3>
<p>The Prusament spools with grey plastic sides are also pressed to the cardboard center, but they are also glued. <strong>The glue added can withstand up to 90 ºC</strong>. So there is no need to add the screw to dry this spool if this temperature is not exceeded.</p>
<p>The PA11CF filament uses the grey Prusament spools. It is recommended to keep this filament in a dry box between each use, even if the filament will be used soon. In case that is not possible, dry the filament before each use.</p>
<h3>Drying methods</h3>
<h4>Temperatures</h4>
<p>Once we are sure that the spool will not fall apart, the following temperatures and times are recommended for the Prusament materials. It is important not to exceed these temperatures while drying the filament, or the filament will soften and stick together.</p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 128.8px;">
<thead>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<th style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">Material</th>
<th style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">Temperature</th>
<th style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">Time</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PLA</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">45 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">6 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PVB</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">45 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">8 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PETG</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">55 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">6 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">ASA</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">80 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">4 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">85 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">5 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PCCF</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">95 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">4 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; text-align: center;">PA11CF</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; text-align: center;">90 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; text-align: center;">6 hours</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Filament dryer</h4>
<p>There are specialized boxes that will not only keep filaments dry but also actively remove the moisture from filaments. Usually, you are also able to keep the filament in the box while printing.</p>
<p>Make sure to check the specifications of the box you intend to use to make sure that it matches the drying temperature of your filament.</p>
<h4>Oven</h4>
<p>Since most people have an oven at home, this seems the easiest way to dry filament. However, some things need to be noted for filament drying in a conventional oven.</p>
<p>Home ovens don't have a very precise temperature measurement. The fluctuations that do not affect your food might damage your filament, especially low-temperature ones like PLA. If using an oven, make sure to have an external thermometer to correct the temperature if necessary.</p>
<p>Another issue is that a lot of home ovens cannot be set at a temperature low enough to dry the filaments without damaging them. Even if left for less time than recommended, high temperatures will damage the filament.</p>
<h4>Food dehydrator</h4>
<p>A different method of drying is adapting a food dehydrator to fit a filament spool inside. The adaptation is usually achieved by taking off the trays between the layers and placing the filaments inside. These dehydrators usually have only low temperatures, so check the drying temperature of your filament before purchasing one.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">After drying, make sure to store the filament properly.</div>


Drying filament

Original Prusa Curing and Washing Machine (CW1S) is a recommended accessory for the Original Prusa SL1S

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Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit assembly

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The Original Prusa MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

Original Prusa MINI+ semi-assembled

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Original Prusa i3 to MMU2S upgrade

Original Prusa XL Five-Head (Assembled)

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Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm to MK2S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm kit assembly

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Original Prusa i3 MK2/S to MMU1 upgrade

The Original Prusa MINI/MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

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Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK2.5 to MMU2 v1.01

Original Prusa i3 MK2.5 to MK2.5S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK2.5S upgrade

Assembly manuals

Basic calibration

Advanced calibration

What to do when the printer reports an error message during calibration.

Calibration Error Messages

All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

Printer description

Printer features

FAQs and other useful information you might be interested in before or after making your purchase at shop.prusa3d.com

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

About your printer

3D models

Material guide

Slicing

Printer maintenance

Prusa Connect & PrusaLink

In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

Using the printer

Print Quality Troubleshooting

Printer troubleshooting

QR Error codes

Print Error Messages

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

Troubleshooting

Nozzles

Octoprint

Printer simulator

Protective Shields

Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more.

3rd party accessories & Other projects

About PrusaSlicer

Configuration and profiles

User interface

Input/output

Left toolbar

Top toolbar

Print settings

Filament settings

Printer settings

Advanced features

Multi-material slicing

SLA slicing

Other (PrusaSlicer)

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

Printables Clubs

Printables

1. Introduction

2. Printer unboxing

2. Base & Side frame assembly

3. CoreXY & Back assembly

3. Printer set up

4. Heatbed & Side panels assembly

5. Extruder & accessories assembly

5. First run

5. Tool-changer assembly

6. First run

4. First run

Manual changelog

6. Extruder & accessories assembly

Manual changelog XL (double head)

Manual changelog XL (Dual-head)

7. First run

2B. Printer Unboxing

2A. Printer Unboxing

<div class="warning-callout"><strong>WARNING:</strong> Please note that Prusa Connect and PrusaLink are currently in a beta stage and the information below might change with the upcoming releases.</div>
<p>Prusa Connect and PrusaLink are two remote printing solutions developed in-house by Prusa. Its origin is in the management system used in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/guinness-world-records-1096-original-prusa-3d-printers-running-at-the-same-time_30677/">record-sized print farm located in Prague HQ.</a></p>
<ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Prusa Connect</strong> is a cloud service for remote printing available from anywhere.</li>
<li><strong>PrusaLink</strong>* is the client-side running locally on your printer, accessible from local network</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<p><em>*formerly known as Prusa Connect Local</em></p>
<p> </p>
<h2>What is Prusa Connect?</h2>
<p>Prusa Connect (<a href="http://connect.prusa3d.com">connect.prusa3d.com</a>) allows you to control your individual printers or even manage a print farm from anywhere in the world.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/9f18d1552ef82ea7ef4960a43a86a17b.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Prusa Connect and PrusaLink explained" alt="" width="900" height="607" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of Prusa Connect interface (cloud service)</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>It is available for free to the owners of selected Original Prusa printers (see the list below). You get a free 1 GB of cloud storage for your G-codes and telemetric data. The full list of features and pricing for end customers or businesses will be announced later on.</p>
<p>Furthermore, Prusa Connect is able to monitor the use of each printer individually, providing valuable statistics of your production environment. </p>
<p> </p>
<h2>What is PrusaLink?</h2>
<p>Much like Octoprint, this remote printer-management system runs locally on your Original Prusa printer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/12af6bd49830e088.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="PrusaLink and Prusa Connect explained" alt="" width="1451" height="800" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of PrusaLink interface (local network)</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Its main goal is to provide communication between your printer and the Prusa Connect cloud. The secondary function is to provide a web interface, which can be used on your local (home) network only. Simply paste the printer's IP address into your web browser to access it. Using PrusaLink alone you can monitor your printer, upload G-codes, start or cancel a print. </p>
<p> </p>
<h2>How to install and configure PrusaLink and Prusa Connect?</h2>
<p>To use the Prusa Connect, you have to first set up the PrusaLink on your printer. The guides below will take you to step by step through the entire process.</p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 135.328125px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>FDM printers</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>PrusaLink</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>Prusa Connect</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa <strong>MK3.9 / MK4 </strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4_413293">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4_417586">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa i3 <strong>MK3/S/+</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 36px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">via RPi / RPi Zero (GPIO</a>/<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 36px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa i3 <strong>MK2.5/S</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">via RPi (USB)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;">Original Prusa <strong>XL</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-xl_419630">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-xl_420001">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;">Original Prusa <strong>MINI / MINI +</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mini-_316781">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;">TBA (Alpha version available)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><strong>SLA printers</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><strong>PrusaLink</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;"><strong>Prusa Connect</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;">Original Prusa <strong>SL1S SPEED</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;">TBA (work in progress)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;">Original Prusa <strong>SL1</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;">TBA (work in progress)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3> </h3>
<h3>Next-gen Original Prusa printers</h3>
<p>Such as the<strong> MK4, MK3.9, XL, MINI/+, SL1/SL1S </strong> as well as the other upcoming models have the PrusaLink built-in. You can connect the printer either using Wi-Fi or a wired LAN (Ethernet) network.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4_413293">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (MK4)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4_417586">Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (MK4)</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-xl_419630">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (XL)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-xl_420001">Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (XL)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mini-_316781">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (MINI/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">PrusaLink (SL1/S)</a></li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<h3>Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+ or MK2.5/S</h3>
<p>In this case, the PrusaLink name also refers to the required hardware solution of a Raspberry Pi (RPi). These printers don't have enough performance, therefore additional hardware is required. PrusaLink is a replacement for the discontinued <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusaprint-rpi-zero-and-octoprint_2180">PrusaPrint solution</a> (Octoprint and the RPi Zero W).</p>
<h4>Which Raspberry Pi should I get for my i3 (MK3/S/+ or MK2.5/S)?</h4>
<p>For your MK3/S/+, you need to get a Raspberry Pi (RPi) to make the PrusaLink and Prusa Connect work. The supported RPi boards are listed below and if you are about to purchase a new one, it is highly recommended to seek the latest generation, as the older ones might be slower.</p>
<p>On MK3/S/+, you can attach the RPi Zero <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">directly onto the printer’s mainboard</a> or use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB connection</a>.<br />On MK2.5/S, you have to use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB connection</a> to the RPi. Then, the PrusaLink and PrusaConnect setup is fairly similar to the MK3/S/+.</p>
<p>Since the RPi doesn't have internal storage, you need to get a MicroSD card. Recommended SD card: Micro SD, SDHC standard, Class 10, 8GB or more. Preferably, choose a name-brand card known to work with RPi. Do backups regularly as even a name-brand card doesn’t guarantee you won’t lose your data. </p>
<p><strong>Supported boards (GPIO connection on Einsy Rambo)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero W</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Supported boards (USB connection)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi 4</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 3+</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 3</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Unsupported boards</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero (without Wi-Fi) and older</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 2 and older</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>What not to do while RPi Zero W/2 is connected and the printer is powered up:<br /></strong><br />- Don't move any of the printer's axes by hand! Use the Move Axis menu only.<br />- Don't connect or disconnect the RPi.<br />- Don't insert or remove the microSD card inside the RPi.<br />- Don't touch the RPi board.<br />- For connecting or powering the RPi, don't use any other methods than the ones endorsed by Prusa.<br />- Only follow the guidance from the official documentation issued by Prusa Research.<br />- Prusa Research is not responsible for any damage done by or caused to third-party hardware.</div>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">PrusaLink and Prusa Connect setup (MK3/S/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">PrusaLink/Prusa Connect with RPi 3/4 (MK2.5/S MK3/S/+)</a></li>
</ul>
<h3><strong>Other guides related to Prusa Connect and PrusaLink:</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/camera-setup-for-prusalink-prusa-connect_470943">Camera setup for PrusaLink / Prusa Connect</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/sending-files-from-prusaslicer-to-prusalink_222961">Sending files from PrusaSlicer to PrusaLink</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sending-g-codes-to-printer-via-network-prusaconnect-prusalink-octoprint_196761">Sending files from PrusaSlicer to printer via network (Prusa Connect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-telegram-notifications-setup_529662">Prusa Connect - Telegram notifications setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-discord-notifications-setup_536115">Prusa Connect - Discord notifications setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-slack-notifications-setup_536172">Prusa Connect - Slack notifications setup</a></li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/connecting-original-prusa-sl1-sl1s-to-prusaslicer_133977">Connecting SL1/S to PrusaSlicer</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/internet-connection-sl1-sl1s_1981">Internet Connection (SL1/S)</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusa-connect-local-mini_133279">Prusa Connect Local (Old firmware connected via Ethernet, Obsolete guide) (MINI/+)</a> <br /> <br /> <br /> </li>
</ul>


Prusa Connect and PrusaLink explained

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3><strong>Basic info</strong></h3>
<div><strong>PLA</strong> is one of the <strong>easiest materials to print.</strong> It is inexpensive and suitable (not only) for beginners. It’s usually used for printing detailed models, figures, and quick prototypes that don’t require high mechanical, chemical, or temperature resistance.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 215 °C for the first layer, 210 °C for other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 60 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Smooth PEI sheet will provide the best adhesion.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-pla/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PLA</strong></a> (Polylactic acid) is a plant-based polyester. <strong>PLA does not require a heated bed</strong>, can be printed fast and with low temperatures (melting point is somewhere around 175 °C). With PLA you can print both small, detailed models and large objects filling almost the entire print volume. Unlike some other filaments, <strong>PLA is not prone to significant warping</strong>. It is good for quick prototyping and creation of nice, low-cost models: concepts, prototypes, simple toys, jewelry, statues, etc. It is not suitable for technical and outdoor use. It doesn’t resist high temperatures (it gets soft and deform at temperatures over 60 °C), degrades under UV light and its mechanical resistance is also inferior - it breaks by the layers or into shards upon impact. Layer adhesion is weaker compared to other materials. Sanding PLA is possible with sandpaper but needs water cooling (wet sanding).</p>
<p>Various sources claim that <strong>PLA is biologically degradable</strong>. The material is made from corn, sugar cane, or sugar beet and indeed can be decomposed, but only in specialized composting facilities where temperatures exceed 80 °C. It is definitely <strong>not a good idea</strong> to throw the <strong>PLA</strong> waste into your garden compost - the material will not disintegrate, plus you will contaminate the soil with plastic microparticles.</p>
<p>Although the <strong>PLA</strong> material itself is <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament material) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layers/grooves that can support bacterial growth. If you still want 3D printed dishes or food containers, we suggest applying a <strong>special layer that seals the surface</strong> (food-safe coating) and printing with a stainless steel nozzle.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials"><strong>material table.</strong></a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low price</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Brittle and inflexible</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print, suitable for beginners</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Low UV and temperature resistance</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good detail and low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Difficult post-processing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Suitable for large models</p>
</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of PLA is for printing concept models, prototypes, or low-wear toys.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Consider using a smooth PEI sheet</strong></p>
<p>If you print with PLA on our Original Prusa i3 printers, <strong>you can print on either a smooth, powder-coated TXT or powder-coated satin sheet.</strong> However, the smooth sheet works better for printing parts that have a small contact area with the print surface. With a powder-coated sheet, you should move your live-Z lower: Filament must fill in the sheet texture. However, you need to be careful and not move the nozzle too low or you will damage your sheet! <strong>Info for different printer users:</strong> PLA is printable not only on PEI surface, but also on glass, Kapton tape, or using a glue stick.</p>
<p><strong>Try to adjust retractions for better results</strong></p>
<p>PLA is sometimes prone to stringing and oozing - this can be reduced with proper retraction settings.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter">
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter__right" data-qa="message_content">
<div class="c-message_kit__blocks c-message_kit__blocks--rich_text">
<div class="c-message__message_blocks c-message__message_blocks--rich_text">
<div class="p-block_kit_renderer" data-qa="block-kit-renderer">
<div class="p-block_kit_renderer__block_wrapper p-block_kit_renderer__block_wrapper--first">
<div class="p-rich_text_block" dir="auto">
<div class="p-rich_text_section"><a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">Chemical smoothing</a> of PLA is possible only in <strong>laboratory conditions</strong> - PLA can be dissolved in <strong>chloroform, hot benzene, or tetrahydrofuran.</strong> These are dangerous organic solvents that should be handled only by skilled lab technicians. Some of the PLA filaments can be also partially dissolved and <strong>glued with acetone</strong> (or you can simply glue it with superglue).</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Masks</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Static models</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Vases, cups, and other tabletop models</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Audio volume knob and other electronic parts</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-800x450.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-768x432.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="399" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>ABS</strong> is a technical material <strong>suitable for printing mechanically stressed parts</strong>, thanks to its high tenacity and temperature resistance. Its surface can be smoothed with <strong>acetone</strong>. The main disadvantage is significant warping and toxic fumes.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 255 °C&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 100 °C, you can set the bed temperature between 80 to 110 °C depending on the size of an object (larger object means higher temperature).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed: Use the smooth or powder-coated PEI sheet with a glue stick.</strong></div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/asa-abs/"><strong>ABS</strong></a> (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is basically a <strong>predecessor of</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/asa_1809"><strong>ASA</strong></a>. ABS is generally used for making inexpensive, sturdy mechanical parts (LEGO bricks, car parts, cellphone parts, etc.). The material is <strong>tenacious and temperature resistant</strong> - this makes it suitable for engineering parts, etc. Compared to ASA, there is slightly worse UV resistance and more significant warping and odor during printing. Note that ABS parts used outdoor turn yellowish and more brittle over time.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">ABS printing requires specific conditions for successful results. It’s important to run the prints in a well-ventilated room because the material releases fumes and substances that could pose a potential health risk. However, when ventilating the room, do not create a draft around the print – this will negatively impact the result.</div>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High tenacity &amp; mechanical resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Significant warping</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High temperature-resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Requires printer enclosure</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy postprocessing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Potentially dangerous fumes (styrene)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Possibility of acetone smoothing and gluing</p>
</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of ABS is for printing cheap technical parts requiring good heat and mechanical resistance or parts that need to be acetone smoothed.</p>
<h3><strong>Tips for successful printing</strong></h3>
<p><strong>Try to keep a high ambient temperature</strong></p>
<p>The bed should be heated at least up to 100 °C, <strong>the printer should be inside an enclosure</strong> with a higher ambient temperature.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can purchase the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/">Original Prusa Enclosure</a> in our e-shop.</p>
<p>It is also possible to <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/">make your own enclosure</a>.</p></div>
<p>If you don’t have an enclosure, there’s one simple alternative: in <strong>PrusaSlicer</strong>, set the skirt value as high as possible. This will keep the model slightly warmer and mitigate the warping. Printing inside an enclosure can lead to deformation of the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/cs/produkt/fan-shroud-bl-mk3s-mmu2s-mk2-5s/">fan shroud</a> and other plastic parts. This can affect the printer's functionality. In case your plastic parts tend to deform, we recommend printing them from a more temperature resistant material, for example <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812"><strong>Prusament PC Blend</strong></a>.</p>
<p><strong>Shrinkage</strong></p>
<p>You should keep in mind that <strong>ABS-printed parts tend to shrink slightly</strong> after cooldown. We recommend printing a testing object and comparing it with a source model. The shrinkage factor of this material is somewhere around 1-2%.</p>
<p><strong>Removing prints</strong></p>
<p>When removing prints with a large surface area, it is very important to let the part and sheet cool properly. <strong>You may have to assist the process using a spatula.</strong> Be gentle when flexing the sheet and removing the print as the smooth PEI foil can tear.</p>
<p><strong>Printing with HIPS</strong></p>
<p>If you print with <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-upgrade-kit-for-mk2-5-mk3s-org/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">MMU2S</strong></a>, you can use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/hips_167118">HIPS</a> for printing supports - this material has similar print settings to ABS and can be easily dissolved in limonene.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
<p>ABS can be sanded wet and dry and smoothed with acetone fumes, just like ASA (see more in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>)</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 319px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 301px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-800x450.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-768x432.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1417"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 301px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-800x600.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Lego bricks</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Acetone smoothed model</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<p>On the Original Prusa MK4 and XL, the firmware is flashed by using a USB flash drive.</p>
<ol>
<li>Download the latest firmware for your printer and extract it (zip file) on your computer
<ul>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk4">Original Prusa MK4</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/xl">Original Prusa XL</a></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Make sure the USB flash drive doesn't contain any previous firmware (.bbf file)</li>
<li>Copy the new .bbf file to the root directory of a USB flash drive (Not within a folder).</li>
<li>Insert the USB flash drive and push the reset button<strong>.</strong> The bootloader will automatically compare the installed version with the one on the drive and, if newer, will automatically offer you to flash it.</li>
<li>Confirm the update by selecting the "FLASH" button and pressing the knob. </li>
</ol>
<p> </p>
<div><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/035427dd374ce9f494d89568ff3e72ac.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Flashing firmware (MK4)" alt="" width="700" height="276" loading="lazy" /></div>
<h3>Alternative method - older firmware release (firmware downgrade)</h3>
<p>It is not possible to flash to the same, or an older version of the firmware release, using the method above. To flash an older firmware the procedure is as follows:</p>
<ol>
<li>Push the reset button, immediately followed by clicking the selector knob.</li>
<li>On the new screen, confirm the update by selecting the "FLASH" button and pressing the knob. </li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">If it repeatedly only boots the printer and gives you the home screen try to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sd-cards-and-usb-drives_112291">format your USB flash-drive</a> or try a different one. <strong>Even if the flash drive works with G-Codes and printing, it may not work for flashing the firmware.</strong></div>


How to update firmware (MK4/XL)

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-768x768.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-2048x2048.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3><strong>Basic info</strong></h3>
<div>Polyvinyl butyral (PVB) is a material designed for easy smoothing with isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Thanks to its transparency, it’s suitable for printing vases, lamp shades and other design objects. Print settings are similar to PLA, while its mechanical properties are slightly better.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 215±10 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 75 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Smooth PEI or satin TXT sheet will provide the best adhesion.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-pvb/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PVB</strong></a> (Polyvinyl butyral) has similar print settings to PLA, mechanical properties are comparable with CPE or low-tier PETG. Thanks to its translucency and IPA smoothing, it is an ideal choice when you want to make design objects, such as unconventional vases, jewellery, lamp shades and similar objects. The most ideal are models that require partially transparent surface. It’s recommended to tweak print settings, especially layer height, number of perimeters and infill density. We recommend printing with large nozzle diameter and spiral vase mode.</p>
<p>PVB is not suitable for printing mechanical parts. Its dimensional stability is great, tenacity and tensile strength is comparable to CPE (and low-tier PETG) but temperature resistance is similar to PLA.</p>
<p>Since it's an easy-to-print material (similar to PLA), PVB is a great choice for both experienced and new 3D printer users that would like to try something new.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials"><strong>material table.</strong></a></p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 515px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ Print settings similar to PLA</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">
<p>✖ Low layer to layer adhesion</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ Filament transparency</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">
<p>✖ Hygroscopic filament (absorbs moisture)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ Ideal for design parts, vases, lamp shades etc.</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">
<p>✖ Higher price</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ IPA chemical smoothing</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ Great surface adhesion</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>✔ Good tenacity (similar to CPE)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>✔ Good tensile strength (similar to PETG)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>✔ Low warping (lower than PLA)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>✔ Good for using 0.8mm nozzle</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of PVB is for printing transparent models, such as jewellery, vases, lamp shades etc.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Do not use standard powder-coated TXT sheet</strong></p>
<p>PVB adheres well to a clean <strong>smooth PEI sheet</strong> or <strong>satin TXT sheet</strong>. Powder-coated TXT sheet might not provide a good adhesion.</p>
<p><strong>Use the spiral vase mode</strong></p>
<p>When printing transparent parts that require IPA smoothing, it’s good to print with a larger nozzle diameter (0.8mm) and with the spiral vase mode on. Printing with more perimeters will make layers visible even after IPA smoothing.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter">
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter__right" data-qa="message_content">
<div class="c-message_kit__blocks c-message_kit__blocks--rich_text">
<div class="c-message__message_blocks c-message__message_blocks--rich_text">
<div class="p-block_kit_renderer" data-qa="block-kit-renderer">
<div class="p-block_kit_renderer__block_wrapper p-block_kit_renderer__block_wrapper--first">
<div class="p-rich_text_block" dir="auto">
<div>The main advantage of PVB is the possibility of IPA smoothing. PVB models can be smoothed out with IPA fumes (smoothing box or professional smoothing station), washing in an IPA bath or direct application (brush or spray). Detailed smoothing description can be found in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/prusament-pvb-our-new-transparent-filament-made-for-easy-chemical-smoothing_43066/">dedicated article</a>, general smoothing instructions can be found in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">older article</a>.</div>
<div>
<p><strong>Keep the filament dry</strong></p>
<p><strong>PVB is very prone to absorbing moisture.</strong> Always put the spool back inside the bag with silica gel or <strong>let it dry</strong> for 8 hours at 45 °C before printing!</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="800" height="534"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="800" height="533"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Lamp shades</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Vases</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-2048x1365.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="800" height="534"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-2048x1365.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="800" height="534"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Masks and other design parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Miniatures</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<p>A 'cold pull' is a technique that allows you to clean your printer’s nozzle and hotend from any material that may be stuck or burnt inside. You can also use it to clean your hotend during your usual maintenance routine.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">If you are using Nozzle X <strong>do not</strong> use the cold-pull method, but only use cleaning filament.</div>
<p>The cold pull should be done if your nozzle is only partially clogged, and some filament is still being extruded. If the nozzle is completely clogged, please check the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-hotend-mk4_411823">clogged hotend article for MK4</a>, or the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-hotend-xl_401294">clogged hotend article for XL</a>.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Our testing has found that PLA works best for a cold pull, as other filaments do not retain the tip as PLA does and they will either tear or melt too much. However, there are filaments specifically made for cleaning hotends.</div>
<h3>Preliminary steps for XL</h3>
<p>On the Original Prusa XL, proceed with these two steps before the cold pull procedure.</p>
<ol>
<li>Insert a piece of filament into the side PTFE tube, just enough to trigger the side filament sensor. </li>
<li>Unscrew the Bowden PTFE tube above the extruder.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Cold pull procedure</h3>
<ol>
<li>Load a piece of PLA filament in the extruder, inserting it from above the extruder. The printer will prompt a material selection: select PLA and complete the loading procedure. </li>
<li>Open the Idler Swivel.<br />
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 314px; border-style: hidden;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 296px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 296px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/XL_Extruder_Open2.jpg" alt="" width="399" height="299" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 296px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/XL_Extruder_Open.jpg" alt="" width="399" height="299" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK4</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa XL</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</li>
<li>Go to <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle Temperature</em> and set the temperature to 270 °C.</li>
<li>Once it has reached 270 °C push the PLA filament in until it starts pouring out of the nozzle.</li>
<li>Stop heating by pressing Cooldown in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Cooldown</em>, or by pressing the reset button. </li>
<li>Continue manually pushing the filament down until the temperature is too low for it to melt and come out (around 170 °C for PLA). The nozzle has to be filled for the cold pull to be successful.</li>
<li>Pick away any extruded material from the nozzle so there is nothing obstructing the pull later on.</li>
<li>Wait for the temperature to reach 100 °C. As soon as it reaches 100 °C, grab the filament with pliers and pull it slowly but steadily out of the extruder. Make sure to pull straight upwards, not sideways, or the filament can break inside. Hold the extruder with your other hand.</li>
<li>Don't stop until the filament is completely pulled out from the extruder.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Results</h3>
<p>On the tip of the filament that has been pulled out, you may see remnants of the previous material(s) you have been using or some burnt dirt that has settled in the nozzle (left picture). You might want to repeat this procedure several times until the filament comes out clean.</p>
<p>The right picture shows what a clean cold-pulled filament should look like. It is important to have the imprint of the nozzle on it, this way you are sure the nozzle was filled and nothing was left inside. Also, the color is not mixed with the one you have been using previously or has dark marks on it.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-300x214.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-561x400.jpg 561w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-768x548.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-800x571.jpg 800w" alt="dirty cold pull" width="399" height="285" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-300x203.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-591x400.jpg 591w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-768x520.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-800x542.jpg 800w" alt="clean cold pull" width="399" height="270" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>After the procedure, close the Idler and the Idler Swivel. </p>


Cold pull (MK4, XL)

<p>On the Original Prusa XL, adjusting the belt to the optimal tension is crucial to achieving good quality on the prints. A loose belt can cause <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/layer-shifting_2020">Layer shifting</a>, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/ghosting_1801">Ghosting</a>, or other print abnormalities, like getting an irregular shape instead of a perfect circle. An over-tightened belt can cause an irregular movement in the X and Y axes.</p>
<p>The Original Prusa XL geometry is <strong>CoreXY</strong>: it has two belts for the X-axis. </p>
<h3>Belt tuner</h3>
<p>We have our own <a href="https://belt.connect.prusa3d.com/">belt tuner</a>. The application determines the belt tension by measuring the frequency of the vibration generated by strumming it. Follow the instructions in the video below to adjust the belt. </p>
<div class="note-callout">Once you tighten the belt on both sides, ensure that the two sides are perfectly aligned. If needed, follow the steps in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-xl_401793#Alignment">alignment</a> paragraph to fully align the two sides.</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/lqC6rVrFLuY" width="560" height="314" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" loading="lazy"></iframe></p>
<h3>Homing tower</h3>
<p>We prepared a specific homing tower <a href="https://files.printables.com/media/prints/542670/gcodes/4368495_abe96a25-d4d5-4b73-81b1-f82528b5010f/homing-tower_xl_06n_015mm_pla_xl_4h39m.gcode">GCode, intended for a 0.6mm nozzle and PLA</a>, to visualize possible issues with the belt tension and have the possibility to correct them on the spot. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/03ee25ae808b03bc2a92e9ba69b4d1d9_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Adjusting belt tension - REVIEW (XL) [No belt tensioner, add GCode homing tower]" alt="" width="500" height="373" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>In case the <span style="color: #e03e2d;"><strong>belt is loose</strong></span>, the tower will have an inconsistent finish, with scattered material on the walls instead of a smooth finish. Without interrupting the print, tighten the screws on both Y-axis rails by half turn. </p>
<p>If the print finish does not fully improve, repeat the procedure once again, until the homing tower has a <strong><span style="color: #3598db;">smooth, consistent finish</span></strong>. </p>
<p>An over-tightened belt can result in <span style="color: #b96ad9;"><strong>layer shifting</strong></span>.</p>
<p>Once the tower has a smooth finish, loosen the same screws very slightly, observe if this further improves the tower. Repeat the procedure until the tower has an ideal finish. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/XL_belt02.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<h3>Alignment</h3>
<p>It is crucial to have perfect alignment between the right and left sides.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Tightening the right Y-axis rail reduces the space between the CoreXY Front Left and the X-axis on the right side but creates space on the left side, and vice versa. </div>
<p>Move the X-axis all the way to the front of the printer, and move the X-carriage with the extruder all the way to the left.</p>
<p>Test the alignment by squeezing the CoreXY Front Left and the X-axis on either side: there should be no play between the parts. If there is play, tighten the screw on the same side slightly, move the X-axis assembly back and all the way to the front, and test the alignment again on both sides.</p>
<p>Repeat the same procedure until both sides are perfectly aligned and without any play. Once at this stage, check the belt tension, both on the upper and on the lower belt, by attaching the belt meter to either belt: the pointer has to be in the same position for both.</p>
<p>In case there is a difference on the test, slightly tighten the screw on the side:</p>
<ul>
<li>tighten the right side to tension the upper belt</li>
<li>tighten the left side to tension the lower belt</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/XL_belt01.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Adjusting belt tension (XL)" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>


Adjusting belt tension (XL)

<p>It is recommended to regularly take some time to maintain your Original Prusa XL. This should be done even if the printer is working perfectly. <strong>The inspection and maintenance of its various components should be done every ~200-300 hours of print time</strong>.</p>
<h3>Useful tools</h3>
<p>Besides the usual tools, such as Allen keys, needle-nose pliers, and IPA (IsoPropyl Alcohol) + paper towels, you might need:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Compressed air</strong>: also known as canned air. Be sure to not hold it upside down while spraying - otherwise, you could damage any electronic components while trying to clean them.</li>
<li><strong>Brush</strong>: a small brass brush is a useful tool for cleaning the heaterblock. If you don't have a brass brush any brush with hard bristles will do the job. </li>
<li><strong>Prusa Lubricant</strong>: a tube of Prusa Lubricant is included with the Original Prusa XL. It is used in the Z-axis leadscrew paragraph. </li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>DO NOT use Prusa Lubricant on the linear rails! </strong></div>
<h3>Axes check</h3>
<p>Ensure that there is no debris or dust on the <strong>linear rails</strong>. If there is, clean them using a clean paper tissue or a clean cloth <strong>with NO de-greaser</strong> and <strong>with no chemicals</strong>, as these might damage the rubber in the carriage. The factory lubrication for linear rails is effective for at least 2 years. </p>
<h3>Z-axis leadscrew</h3>
<p>After ~500 hours of print time, lubricate the Z-axis leadscrews: apply <strong>a tiny bit of Prusa Lubricant</strong> on the Z-axis leadscrews. After this, move the Z-axis all the way down, and then all the way up. </p>
<h3>Belt</h3>
<p>Attach the belt tensioner on the top belt on the X-axis. The belt tensioner has a pointer, check if it is in the optimal range. The ideal position of the pointer is in the center area, closer to the max mark.</p>
<h3>Flexible steel sheet</h3>
<p>All flexible steel sheets should be cleaned regularly to ensure adhesion, but the exact methods and washing solutions can differ depending on your type of sheet.</p>
<p>You can find more information on how to take care of your flexible steel sheet <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">in this article</a>.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Acetone should be used sparingly for cleaning, and only be used on the Smooth steel sheet! <strong>Never use acetone on the Textured or Satin steel sheet </strong>as the surface will be permanently damaged.</div>
<h3>Fans</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa XL is equipped with a hotend fan, and with a print fan. The printer can detect if any of its fans stop spinning. However, that does not mean you should not check them during maintenance. Dust or plastic build-up can decrease their efficiency or even damage them.</p>
<p>Both fans should be checked and cleaned after a few hundred hours of printing. With the fan <strong>not</strong> moving, dust can be removed with compressed air in a spray can, small plastic threads can be removed with tweezers.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Do not blow compressed air on a running fan: the fan can get damaged this way. </div>
<h3>Nextruder</h3>
<div class="warning-callout">When accessing the extruder parts, do not open the gearbox: this action can cause issues on the extrusion, and will <strong>void the printer warranty</strong>. </div>
<p>The primary gear and the bearings attached to the Idler Shaft in the extruder do not need any lubricant. Over time, a deposit of filament debris can form in the grooves of the primary gear, which then causes insufficient filament extrusion. Access the extruder by lifting the Idler Nut, and then moving the Idle Shaft. You can blow away the dirt with compressed air, or use a brass brush or an ordinary toothpick. Use the access hole on the side of the extruder. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/XL_Extruder_PrimaryGear_TipTensionBolts.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Regular printer maintenance (XL)" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Heaterblock</h3>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>CAUTION</strong>: Heated parts can cause severe burns!</div>
<p>In case the heaterblock is covered with plastic, it can affect its thermal properties. To clean it, heat the nozzle for 3 to 5 minutes at 250 °C, and <strong>turn the printer off</strong>. Immediately after that use a small brass brush to clear away any old plastic stuck on the nozzle and heaterblock. Be extra careful around the fragile wires that join the heaterblock.</p>
<h3>Electronics</h3>
<p>Every ~600-800 printing hours access the electronic boards for a visual check.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Before touching the electrical connections, please make sure that the printer is <strong>fully cooled down</strong>, <strong>switched off</strong>, and <strong>unplugged from the main power source for at least 10 minutes</strong>.</div>
<ul>
<li>Check if there are any pinched or worn cables on the printer.</li>
<li>Access the electronic boards and blow compressed air in between the cables to get rid of dust. </li>
<li>Check the connection of all of the wires on the electronic boards. </li>
</ul>
<h3>Firmware and software</h3>
<p>You should always be using the latest <strong>stable </strong>firmware version that we have published for your specific printer model. You can check the firmware version you have, by navigating to <em>LCD menu - Info - Version info</em>. </p>
<p>We also recommend using the latest version of our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/install-prusaslicer_1903">PrusaSlicer</a>, as it enables you to <strong>enjoy all the features</strong> of your printer. It even saves information about the printer model, nozzle diameter, and firmware version directly into the g-code file so that the printer can warn you if anything is out of date or incompatible.</p>


Regular printer maintenance (XL)

<p>Prusa Connect allows you to connect your camera through API and retrieve images (snapshots). The documentation will guide you through:</p>
<ul>
<li>How to register camera to Prusa Connect</li>
<li>How to upload snapshot to Connect</li>
<li>How to update camera attributes</li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<p>To learn more, please visit the <a href="https://connect.prusa3d.com/docs/cameras/#tag/cameras" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Prusa Connect Camera API documentation</a>.</p>


Prusa Connect - Camera API

How to change xLCD and xLCD cable (XL single-tool)

Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (XL)

How to replace a Nextruder (XL)

How to install the Nextruder V6 Nozzle Adapter (XL single-tool)

How to replace the Prusa Nozzle (XL single-tool)

How to replace the Hotend assembly (XL single-tool)

How to replace a Dwarf board (XL multi-tool)

How to lubricate the coupler pins on Original Prusa XL (Multi-Tool)

How to fix Modular bed error (HW solution)

Packing the XL Multi-tool for return - Original Packing material


<ul>
<li>Initial release for Original Prusa XL</li>
</ul>


1.00

4.5.3


<ul>
<li>Improved 'Monotonic lines' fill pattern</li>



<li>Improved Acceleration control</li>



<li>Specific object arrangement for XL</li>



<li>Original Prusa XL profiles</li>



<li>Updated translations</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.5.1


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4 profiles</li>
</ul>


2.5.2


<ul>
<li>New Home screen </li>



<li>Homing improvements</li>



<li>Changes to Live Adjust Z</li>



<li>Footer Items settings improved&nbsp;</li>



<li>Prusa Connect and PrusaLink improvements</li>



<li>Improvements to the Factory Reset feature&nbsp;</li>



<li>Calibrations and Tests on improvements</li>



<li>Tool changer usage statistics</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


4.6.1


<p>Updated with information for semi-assembled XL</p>


1.02


<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


2.6.0


<ul>
<li>Multi-tool support</li>



<li>Other improvements</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


4.7.0


<ul>
<li>Single tool G-code on a multi tool printer</li>



<li>Known Bugs</li>
</ul>


4.7.1


<ul>
<li>Custom nozzle diameter</li>



<li>Temperature menu reordered</li>
</ul>


4.7.2


<ul>
<li>Updated with instructions for the Original Prusa PDU</li>
</ul>


1.03


<ul>
<li>New Arrange tool options</li>



<li>New Cut tool options</li>



<li>Per-symbol text projection on surface</li>



<li>Interlocking of painted areas for MMU printing</li>
</ul>


2.6.1

4.7.5


<ul>
<li>New SVG support</li>



<li>Binary G-Code (.bgcode) export support + conversion</li>



<li>Arc fitting support </li>
</ul>


2.7.0


<ul>
<li>Printing speed boost with Input Shaper and Pressure Advance (XL and MINI)</li>



<li>Major updates to network code; Instant Printing feature</li>



<li>Major updates to Prusa Connect and network communication</li>



<li>Introducing a new efficient open-source Binary G-code format</li>



<li>New useful pre-print screen for XL Multi-Tool printers</li>



<li>Cancel object directly from the printer’s menu</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa XL