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1. Filament preparation
Step 1 of 17 (Chapter 15 of 15)
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We can now move on to loading the filaments in and printing the test object! But first;
⬢Please prepare at least five different PLA filaments and cut off the ends to form a round sharp tip on each - as seen in the picture.
⬢The filaments must have a sharp tip in order to load properly into the MMU as well as into the printer. If the tip is deformed, bent or larger in diameter, it won't load properly.
⬢Inspect the last 40cm (15") of each filament. Make sure there are no dents in it. Sometimes, if filament got jammed before, the pulley wheel makes an indent in it. This part of the filament can no longer be grabbed and moved by the MMU unit and must be cut off.
⬢If the filament end is bent, straighten it. It must be perfectly straight.
Use only high-quality filament with guaranteed low diameter deviation. In case you have filament loading / unloading issues in the future, re-visit this step as well. Make sure the filament is dried up. Moisture-sensitive filaments can be problematic during the MMU operation.
Contents
Original Prusa MMU3 Assembly (includes upgrade from MMU2S)
- 1. Introduction
- 2. MMU2S Disassembly (UPG)
- 3. MMU2S Buffer Disassembly (UPG)
- 4. Idler Body Assembly
- 5. Selector Assembly
- 6. Pulley Body Assembly
- 7A. Cassette Buffer Assembly
- 8. Spool holder Assembly
- 9A. MK4/S, MK3.9/S Nextruder mod
- 9B. MK3S+ / MK3.5 Extruder mod (KIT)
- 9C. MK3S+ Extruder (UPG)
- 10A. MK4/S, MK3.9/S Setup and Calibration
- 10B. MK3S+ Setup and Calibration
- 10C. MK3.5 Setup and Calibration
- 11. First Flight
- Filament preparation
- Suggested filament layout
- Loading a filament through the buffer
- Preloading a filament to MMU
- Closing the buffer
- Pro tip: Loading using the buttons.
- Loading test (part 1)
- Loading test (part 2)
- Z axis and first layer calibration (optional)
- Printing a test object
- Tools Mapping (MK3.5 / MK4)
- Printable 3D models
- Print & Follow the Handbook.
- G-code preparation / Custom model preparation
- Making your own Multi-material models
- MMU Single material operation
- Reward yourself
Comments
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Jan Kratochvíl
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No, but you have to calibrate every filament slot on the MMU. So you will have to unload filament and put it in the different slot.
Jan Kratochvíl
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Yes. The calibration is recommended everytime you move the printer or addons, but also when we calibrate items here before shipping, we erase the settings and a new calibration is needed.
AceOfSpades
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Can I cut a long piece of filament as the “other spools” when calibrating? Also, can I print with 3 spools only and will the MMU3 detect this?
Jan Kratochvíl
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You can use just long pieces for calibration. And you will ask the MMU to load filaments, so the MMU will know about them. But beware, you can unload filaments just by unrolling them and the MMU will not know about it.
Jan Kratochvíl
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You can use the filament to check if all parts of the MMU are working as intended, but for the print, you can load only the filaments you need. But we could talk here more and more about the MMU :-) But if you still have questions, you can talk to our support team via livechat ;-)
soulbladeofdawn
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There should be a 5 color option for the sheep. Not much of a first flight if you only check two of the colors. Especially since each one of the filiment pathways needs to work in order to function.
dschwartz
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I had poor luck trying to create a sharpened tip as described here. Instead, I found that a very long angled cut along the length of the filament (basically a long 45 degree) single cut allowed me to easily load all 5. Look at the recommended filament tip cuts for the Prusa Mini and that is how I cut mine.
DaveGadgeteer
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I never use PLA, only PETG. I really hate to have to buy 5 rolls of PLA just for this.
Petr Němec
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Hi Dave, you can use PETG but the model is necessary re-sliced .You can find it on https://www.printables.com/cs/model/13787-sheep
daryl wiest
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I was having trouble getting the ends of my filament to be straight enough to load into the MMU. I used my old piece of PTFE that I took out of my hot end to help bend/reverse the curve... I would stick my spool into the end of it and flex it oposite the curve, and push the filament in and out of the short piece of tubing to help get it straight.
I also had to occasionally just open up the top of my MMU and manually make sure the end of the filament cleared the edge just before the selector while pusing in from the buffer/cassette end. After a successfull print, all the filaments gave a really nice tip and they had less trouble loading into the MMU.
I also had to occasionally just open up the top of my MMU and manually make sure the end of the filament cleared the edge just before the selector while pusing in from the buffer/cassette end. After a successfull print, all the filaments gave a really nice tip and they had less trouble loading into the MMU.